howto prime a motor after it has sit for a year?

[inmyshadow]

I'm getting closer to finishing up my shadow. The car sat for a year without running. Normally I just disconnect the hall effect and crank the motor over.

I'm thinking this time might be different.

[contraption22]

Take the timing belt off and spin the intermediate shaft with an air ratchet.

[turbovanman²]

What he said or remove the plugs, HEP connectors and crank, add some oil to coat the cam and related parts, no load on the bearings.

[RoadWarrior222]

I like to spray some WD-40 in the cylinders through the plugholes the day prior and then turn a couple of revs with a ratchet on the crank bolt to check it's all free and clear then let it rip.

If at all possible, let it get nice and hot, like fan cycling, on the first run, drive any condensation out.... I usually do that on the oil it's been sitting with THEN change, rather than change then run, since if it collects any moisture that's clinging to the undersides of anything, that the oil won't touch unless it's moving, then you get that milkshake on top of the new oil, instead of it coming out with the old oil... shouldn't be much of it though, or you have a HG leak or casting crack.

[zin]

+1 to this. I suggest using a corded drill though, that way you can control the speed better. Run it at least long enough to get oil coming out of the top end. Longer if you like, can't really do it "too long"...

Mike

[cordes]

+1 to this. I suggest using a corded drill though, that way you can control the speed better. Run it at least long enough to get oil coming out of the top end. Longer if you like, can't really do it "too long"...

Mike

I use a drill too. I ground the tip off of a spade bit and used that in the dist hole.

[tryingbe]

Disconnect the oil return line. Fill the oil filter as much as you can. Fill the tube at the base of the oil filter at the block. Put the oil filter in and start turning the intermediate shaft by hand (no need to have timing belt to be on until after). Turn until oil comes out at the oil return line and then put the silicone line / timing belt back on and reassemble everything else.

[zin]

I'd still suggest turning things over until you have oil coming out the top end fully, that's the last place to get oil, so if you've got it there, it's everywhere else too... pre-filling the filter is a good idea too, though if you turn it over long enough that will happen anyway, I don't see the need to fill the feed tube, that will fill up in short order once you're working the pump.

Like most things there's more than one way to get the job done, partly a matter of preference.

Mike

[bahelion89]

I dump a little oil in the head to coat everything. then I open the oil pump and pack it full of vasoline. Disconnect the cam sensor and crank it a few times. Plug the sensor back in and start it.

Got the vasoline idea from a family friend that's a mechanic and restores old schools muscle for a living. Its patroleoum based an dissolves in oil

[inmyshadow]

This is what I was thinking of doing. I was worried about damaging the oil pump gear.


I use a drill too. I ground the tip off of a spade bit and used that in the dist hole.

This past month I pulled the head for my turbo header and looking the source of my rattle and detonation. The motor turns over fine. The car sat for over a year, so I was concerned for the crank bearings.

later