supercrackerbox
10-10-2012, 01:52 PM
I copied this over here per 86Shelby's suggestion.
Now first of all, I'm not much of a fabricator, nor do I claim to be. I'm just a dip with a bench vise and a welder who can't leave well enough alone. Therefore, any critiques and suggestions would be appreciated.
This all started off as an Ishara-Johnson crank scraper that I got from FWDP. Now ideally the windage tray would have been a simple one-piece design that bolted to the block. But since my engine is an '89 TIV, there are no provisions for balance shafts, leaving no extra holes to bolt anything to, and I was hesitant to use the main cap hardware for anything. The other option would have been to weld something into the pan, but the part I don't like about that is the rather large hole needed for the oil pump pickup. Therefore I came up with a side skirt welded to each rail of the scraper, and a plate to cover the gap between. This will allow me to position each scraper independantly as needed, and still mount the pickup without the big hole.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o298/supercrackerbox/GLHS/windagetray.jpg
Now as you can see in this teaser pic from last week, this does end up covering pretty much everything, meaning all the oil draining back from the head would wind up in the windage tray before it reached the pan. I originally planned a series of louvres for each skirt, but my tools and skills were severely lacking. Therefore I drilled two rows of large holes in each side, and covered them with some perforated sheet that I got from work.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o298/supercrackerbox/GLHS/IMG_3531.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o298/supercrackerbox/GLHS/IMG_3532.jpg
Please forgive the welds between the skirts and scrapers; the scrapers are considerably thicker than the 22 gauge sheet I'm using, making welding a bit tricky. They're not pretty, but I asure you they will hold. I also tack welded the bolts that will hold the bottom tray, as there will be no access for a wrench once the sides are in place. I positioned the bolts in line with the three middle main caps to ensure they would not contact the rotating assembly. The nuts I'm using have scalloped flanges, and I'll be using Loc-Tite to ensure that they won't come loose.
I also saw fit to add a baffle for the turbo oil return.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o298/supercrackerbox/GLHS/IMG_3533.jpg
Now since this will all be going into a deep-sump 2.2 pan, I don't know that baffles will be necessary or even helpful, but I figure they certainly can't hurt. I don't forsee the car being able to accelerate or brake hard enough to cause an oil issue, so I just focused on the side-to-side. I formed two baffles to fit the bottom of the pan (more or less) with hinges on the bottom plate. The pan itself actually stops them from swinging the wrong direction, but I added the 90° braces just as a precaution.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o298/supercrackerbox/GLHS/IMG_3534.jpg
You can also see that I provided a hole for the dipstick, something that was lacking on my old MP "autocross" oil pan.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o298/supercrackerbox/GLHS/IMG_3535.jpg
Now in this pic, you can see somewhat of a gap between the skirts and the plate. I simply placed some thick washers under the plate. This will provide drainage for the oil that makes it past the drain holes above. Yes, there could be times where the oil washes up through the gap, but I think the plate will at least calm it down to where the oil doesn't splash onto the crank itself. Thoughts?
Here's how it all sits in the pan:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o298/supercrackerbox/GLHS/IMG_3536.jpg
And shots of the baffles:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o298/supercrackerbox/GLHS/IMG_3538.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o298/supercrackerbox/GLHS/IMG_3537.jpg
They are not a perfect fit, but I'd rather have a slight gap than have them drag on the pan and not do their job, or worse yet, bind up and prevent oil from reaching the pickup.
And that's about it! Now to wash it all thoroughly in the parts washer, and finally seal up the bottom of the engine again.
Now first of all, I'm not much of a fabricator, nor do I claim to be. I'm just a dip with a bench vise and a welder who can't leave well enough alone. Therefore, any critiques and suggestions would be appreciated.
This all started off as an Ishara-Johnson crank scraper that I got from FWDP. Now ideally the windage tray would have been a simple one-piece design that bolted to the block. But since my engine is an '89 TIV, there are no provisions for balance shafts, leaving no extra holes to bolt anything to, and I was hesitant to use the main cap hardware for anything. The other option would have been to weld something into the pan, but the part I don't like about that is the rather large hole needed for the oil pump pickup. Therefore I came up with a side skirt welded to each rail of the scraper, and a plate to cover the gap between. This will allow me to position each scraper independantly as needed, and still mount the pickup without the big hole.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o298/supercrackerbox/GLHS/windagetray.jpg
Now as you can see in this teaser pic from last week, this does end up covering pretty much everything, meaning all the oil draining back from the head would wind up in the windage tray before it reached the pan. I originally planned a series of louvres for each skirt, but my tools and skills were severely lacking. Therefore I drilled two rows of large holes in each side, and covered them with some perforated sheet that I got from work.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o298/supercrackerbox/GLHS/IMG_3531.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o298/supercrackerbox/GLHS/IMG_3532.jpg
Please forgive the welds between the skirts and scrapers; the scrapers are considerably thicker than the 22 gauge sheet I'm using, making welding a bit tricky. They're not pretty, but I asure you they will hold. I also tack welded the bolts that will hold the bottom tray, as there will be no access for a wrench once the sides are in place. I positioned the bolts in line with the three middle main caps to ensure they would not contact the rotating assembly. The nuts I'm using have scalloped flanges, and I'll be using Loc-Tite to ensure that they won't come loose.
I also saw fit to add a baffle for the turbo oil return.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o298/supercrackerbox/GLHS/IMG_3533.jpg
Now since this will all be going into a deep-sump 2.2 pan, I don't know that baffles will be necessary or even helpful, but I figure they certainly can't hurt. I don't forsee the car being able to accelerate or brake hard enough to cause an oil issue, so I just focused on the side-to-side. I formed two baffles to fit the bottom of the pan (more or less) with hinges on the bottom plate. The pan itself actually stops them from swinging the wrong direction, but I added the 90° braces just as a precaution.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o298/supercrackerbox/GLHS/IMG_3534.jpg
You can also see that I provided a hole for the dipstick, something that was lacking on my old MP "autocross" oil pan.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o298/supercrackerbox/GLHS/IMG_3535.jpg
Now in this pic, you can see somewhat of a gap between the skirts and the plate. I simply placed some thick washers under the plate. This will provide drainage for the oil that makes it past the drain holes above. Yes, there could be times where the oil washes up through the gap, but I think the plate will at least calm it down to where the oil doesn't splash onto the crank itself. Thoughts?
Here's how it all sits in the pan:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o298/supercrackerbox/GLHS/IMG_3536.jpg
And shots of the baffles:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o298/supercrackerbox/GLHS/IMG_3538.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o298/supercrackerbox/GLHS/IMG_3537.jpg
They are not a perfect fit, but I'd rather have a slight gap than have them drag on the pan and not do their job, or worse yet, bind up and prevent oil from reaching the pickup.
And that's about it! Now to wash it all thoroughly in the parts washer, and finally seal up the bottom of the engine again.