Ideas/Help - '92 Lebaron 3.0 V6 Convt Turbo Build

[NeverLow]

Will be editing post as advice comes in
Will be posting pics as progress is made








Hey guys, I am brand new on here, so I am sorry if there is already another build topic on this. But I want to turbo my '92 Lebaron 3.0 V6 Convt. I have a 2nd identical 3.0 out of a minivan that I am going to break down and rebuild for this project. I have a bunch of ideas on how I am going to go about this, but it is my first Mopar build, and its one nobody seems to have really done. There has been some research and speculation, and the failing of the Daytona IROC which would have had this set up. I only want to push about 10lbs and have about 300bhp. I do NOT want to run nitrous either. I am not trying to fly around, just want it to be a quick little daily driver.

I got this car for free in trade, and just about everything done to it so far has been free or by trade as well. In total, I have had this car for a year and a half, and besides regular maintenance, I have less than $1000 in this car. It has over 200k on it, but I don't know how much because my ODO stopped. The engine is still running strong, but when it blows up, I would like to keep the car and have some fun with it. These are the ideas/plans/current mods I have for the vehicle. Will post pictures of all soon. Any help, advice, changes, or connections anybody else that you suggest that can help with is greatly appreciated. Hope you guys like it!!


'92 Lebaron LX Convertible (J-Body) V6 TUЯ3.0 Project
(Besides all aftermarket modifications, steps are constantly being made to better the car to make it seem BRAND NEW, such as fixing the body, fixing up interior and exterior panels to new factory, etc)








Interior:

Reupholster seats from leather to cloth (2 tone Black & red w/hair resistant backing) - (Shue In Customs) done
Reupholster armrest - (Shue In Customs)
New black molded carpet - $150
Headliner black w/red stitching - (Shue In Customs)
Int. Bulbs changed to white LED - (The Dark Side) done
Analog gauge cluster w/boost gauge - $100 <----- Pending (j4278h)
Custom gauge pods/cluster (ATF, Wideband)
​Black 5 speed center console w/boot - $75 <---- Pending (spoolinhard)
Black carpet for center console - $70 <---- Pending (martin kohler)
Electronics:

Eclipse Headunit - (The Dark Side) done
(2) 4” Image Dynamics Coaxial (Dash) - (The Dark Side) done
(2) Kicker 6.5” Woofers (Doors) - (The Dark Side) done
Eclipse 4 channel amp - (The Dark Side) done
(2) Sundown E8 v.3’s (fiberglassed into rear panels) (The Dark Side)
Audiopipe mini monoblock amp (The Dark Side)
Hardwired android charger & apple charger - (The Dark Side) done
Hardwired Cobra radar detector - (The Dark Side) done
Push button start - (The Dark Side) done
Keyless Entry/Remote Start - (The Dark Side) done

Exterior:

5% Sides & back window, 40% windshield tint - (The Dark Side) done
Flat black paint w/antenna & 3rd brake light delete, debadge/pinstripe, wheels - done
New Black Haartz Stayfast Canvas Top w/back glass/defrost <---- Temporary fix - Black PlastiDip
Black mesh grill top & bottom - (The Dark Side) done
Converted to dual HL to single projectors w/55W 6k Bi-Xenon HID - (The Dark Side) done
Single LED projector running lights - (The Dark Side) done
Clear front markers w/LED projector switchbacks - (The Dark Side)
Tag light changed to white LED - (The Dark Side) done
CREE high power projector reverse bulbs - (The Dark Side) done
Shaved door handles w/poppers & keypad entry - $500
Performance (New Motor Build - Mitsubishi 6G72 12V SOHC)

Engine re-ring/rebuild kit - $250 (RPM Machine)
Custom forged pistons/rods - $900 (Venolia)
King DOHC Bearing Set - (3sx)
1G DSM OEM Connecting Rod/Head Bolts - <-------- Ne1 know where to find a new set?
Stage1 Cams w/Comp Cam springs - $300 (Turbovanman)
Custom Headers/Manifold, Down pipe, & Custom Ported/Flipped Intake - $1400 (Turbovanman/Shayne)
HX35 turbo - $250 (used) (Turbovanman)
External wastegate/BOV & Aurora ignition wires (8.5mm) - (Turbovanman)
3" Turbo-back exhaust w/Flat black dual tip muffler (Vibrant) - $150 <--- Have pipes
MS2 v3.0 w/boost controller & Standalone Gauge Kit w/LC-1 & G5 Analog Gauge, MegaView II, & MegaSquirt Simulator - $950 (DIY)
NGK Iridium IX spark plugs - $60/set
Bosch 46# injectors - $160 (used) <----- Pending (Sundance6G72)
New factory crank, valves, head bolts/studs - (3sx)
TOGA high volume oil pump (12V, SOHC, V6) - $225
Mishimoto catch can (Black) - $100
Aeromotive 340 Stealth fuel pump - $175
AEM billet adjustable fuel pressure regulator - $125
Bosch high flow fuel filter - $50
New 3/8 fuel lines & custom fuel rail <---- Looking for 80's fuel rail to modify for AFPR
GATES 33488 180 Thermostat - $10 <----- Have for new motor
58mm Throttle Body <---- Pending (j4278h)
Precision front mount Intercooler - $300
Custom intercooler piping w/clamps
Powder coated/painted black - block, intake manifold/plenum, cold side of turbo, intercooler & piping, valve covers
All new bushings/mounts - $400 (polybushings.com)
Misc. lines, piping, gaskets, hardware, etc
Transmission:

A543 Trans (3.50 FD) - $250 <----- Pending (j4278h)
Rebuilt A543 w/OBX LSD prepped and hardware - $1000 (Turbo Unleashed)
6 Puck Purple Plate Clutch - $425 (Turbo Unleashed)
5 spd conversion parts (shifter, cables, pedals,) - $100 (used) (lengel) <--- Have parts waiting for install
B&M Short Throw Shifter & bushings - $150 (Forward Motion)
​M/T ECU Swap - $100 (used) <------ Pending (j4278h)
Suspension/Brakes:

Suspension Techniques 1" lowering springs - $300 (Andy's Auto Sport)
KYB front struts & mounts - $140/pair (PartsGeek)
KYB gas adjust rear shocks - $80/pair (PartsGeek)
Addco front sway bar - $210 (Andy's Auto Sport)
Addco rear sway Bar - $170 (Andy's Auto Sport)
Strut tower bar - $150 (TurbosUnleashed)
11" Big brake kit w/ABS -

​New front knuckles - $ (NAPA)
New front hub assemblies w/non-press in bearing - $ (NAPA)
New propositioning valve - $ (NAPA)

New 24mm master cylinder - $ (NAPA - NMC M2534)
New rear backing plate - $ (NAPA)
New brake hoses - $ (NAPA)
​Vented rotors - $ (R1 Concepts)
​60mm Calipers (painted black) - $ (NAPA)
StopTech Pads - $ (R1 Concepts)

[turbovanman²]

Ok, we have quite a few threads floating around on this so I'll cliff note this, check out the 3.0L turbo section.

300 hp shouldn't be a big deal, GT35R, HX35, HE341/351, 60 trim is all capable of that.

Do a stock rebuild with custom forged pistons from Venolia or piston manufacter of choice. Stock crank and rods are fine, but ARP rod bolts and mains.

Intake mods to swap plenum around or custom.

Mounts from www.polybushings.com or our vendors-see vendor section.

Heads, just clean up and do a mild port job or leave alone.

I sell custom cams for the 3.0L and we offer headers which are probably the best out there-links to follow. I also sell wires, see sig.

Bigger injectors and a remote 1:1 fuel pressure reg, I don't think stock RT injectors will work.

255 fuel pump, Aeromotive or others over Walbro.

Custom cal by "www.boostbutton.com" and a aftermarket piggy back controller.

Forget the A604 for now, we are still trying to figure it out, so go 3 speed or 5 speed manual.

Adjustable cam sprockets are stupid money, I think only available in Australia.

Koni shocks and struts are no longer available, FWD performance is putting something together or make something up yourself.

That's the bulk of it.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?66653-Offering-welding-services-custom-manifolds-or

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?61496-3.0L-AEM-FIC-Discussion

[3.0LeBaron]

yeah i think i am the only one stupid enough to keep the a604 only because it's what i have

[turbovanman²]

yeah i think i am the only one stupid enough to keep the a604 only because it's what i have

Not stupid, the biggest problem is controlling it, we are working on it, but until we figure it out, the only auto option is the 3 speed, highway rpm sucks but with a V6, you can gear it low due to the nice down low torque, so that helps, plus if you use LU, then that's even better.

[NeverLow]

What do you mean by swap plenum or custom?

What injectors do you suggest?

Does boost button.com do the piggy back controller as well?

I will check into the bushings. Are there any turbos any suggest over others? opinions?

And I am pretty sure I am keeping the A604. I don't really have access to a 3 speed and don't feel like going through the hassle of a 5spd.

[RoadWarrior222]

Some people like to turn their plenum around 180 because they think stuff fits better that way.

boostbutton seems to still be in the early development stages of 3.0 stuff, but that's probably because no-one so far has thrown money at him.

[NeverLow]

Are there any benefits besides fitment to flipping the plenum 180?

[turbovanman²]

What do you mean by swap plenum or custom?

What injectors do you suggest?

Does boost button.com do the piggy back controller as well?

I will check into the bushings. Are there any turbos any suggest over others? opinions?

And I am pretty sure I am keeping the A604. I don't really have access to a 3 speed and don't feel like going through the hassle of a 5spd.

You have turn the plenum around otherwise it hits the turbo.

Check the other threads for advice on the injectors.

Boostbutton will remove limiters etc so you can boost it, but he hasn't got a turbo code yet. One of the links has the controller you need.

What I listed will work, don't require much fab, can be bought for a good price, even the GT35R.

604, you'll spend alot upgrading it and most likely won't last long,. 3 speeds are dime a dozen and a direct bolt in.

[NeverLow]

Thanks, i will continue to add new updates and any other questions i have

[RoadWarrior222]

I was just thinking about the A604 problem, there was that guy supposed to have a "bang bang" race controller for them, I wonder if you can rig that to take over at say 1/4 to 1/3 throttle, so you can mosey around on the stock program, then when you punch it, it switches over... When I say "bang bang" it was believed that the clutches were not modulated for smooth (and grindy heat generating) shifts, but just slammed straight in (Which feels harsher, but stops them burning away with higher power)

[MC#4]

Sounds like the making of a good project. I'd like to see some more turbo 3.0's. I would suggest reading through the build threads of others who have done it. Just about every question you could have has been answered here at some point. I've been reading through the forums almost every night for over a year now and still learn new things all the time.

I would really suggest swapping to a 5 speed. Its pretty easy and makes a world of difference in a daily driver.

Forged pistons would be great but cost and turnaround time make it a difficult choice.

The turbos turbovanman suggested should fit your goals from what I've read.

Not sure about the underdrive pulley, imho the money could be spent better elsewhere for a DD.

3" catback exhaust is available from Turbos Unleashed and I think forward motion and maybe even FWD performance. You'll have to modify the downpipe or just make one yourself though.

Megasquirt is the top choice for engine management around here. I haven't looked into much yet.

Just a couple tips there.

[NeverLow]

Sounds like the making of a good project. I'd like to see some more turbo 3.0's. I would suggest reading through the build threads of others who have done it. Just about every question you could have has been answered here at some point. I've been reading through the forums almost every night for over a year now and still learn new things all the time.

I would really suggest swapping to a 5 speed. Its pretty easy and makes a world of difference in a daily driver.

Forged pistons would be great but cost and turnaround time make it a difficult choice.

The turbos turbovanman suggested should fit your goals from what I've read.

Not sure about the underdrive pulley, imho the money could be spent better elsewhere for a DD.

3" catback exhaust is available from Turbos Unleashed and I think forward motion and maybe even FWD performance. You'll have to modify the downpipe or just make one yourself though.

Megasquirt is the top choice for engine management around here. I haven't looked into much yet.

Just a couple tips there.

Thanks, i know everything is on here somewhere, just takes so long to find EVERYTHING you need. Thats why it helps to ask advice too.

It seems I am going to lead towards the 5 speed vs the 3 speed. Also, I think I am going to go with the GT35R. I was looking into some of those already, and that one seems to be best bang for your buck.

Why would't you suggest the under drive pulley for a DD?

I want to go 2.5" turbo back exhaust tho, keep it a little quieter. Trying to talk to the site vendors about that. I am not to keen on Forward Motion tho after emailing with them and just looking through a lot of this. They seem to be like the Best Buy of this area. Not bashing, just seem to want to give you everything you don't need.

[MC#4]

Thanks, i know everything is on here somewhere, just takes so long to find EVERYTHING you need. Thats why it helps to ask advice too.

It seems I am going to lead towards the 5 speed vs the 3 speed. Also, I think I am going to go with the GT35R. I was looking into some of those already, and that one seems to be best bang for your buck.

Why would't you suggest the under drive pulley for a DD?

I want to go 2.5" turbo back exhaust tho, keep it a little quieter. Trying to talk to the site vendors about that. I am not to keen on Forward Motion tho after emailing with them and just looking through a lot of this. They seem to be like the Best Buy of this area. Not bashing, just seem to want to give you everything you don't need.

$180 for a pulley that frees up a couple HP and dims your lights at night isn't for me. I don't think I'd bother to run one if I got it for free.

I think a turbo 3.0 would be happier with a 3" exhaust. You should be able to get away with 2.5 though on a DD. I ordered my 3" from TU and I'm not too impressed with their service. They wanted $75 to ship it although they did agree to cut the one section to fit a smaller box for $45 (still too much I think) I ordered it 9/6 and don't have it yet. Due here friday.

Have you considered a new clutch? A stocker won't last long under boost. TU has some well reviewed clutches and they get drop shipped from the manufacturer. I had mine in about 10 days.

OBX LSD should be considered as well. A stock 3.0 will have traction issues with street tires.

[NeverLow]

$180 for a pulley that frees up a couple HP and dims your lights at night isn't for me. I don't think I'd bother to run one if I got it for free.

I think a turbo 3.0 would be happier with a 3" exhaust. You should be able to get away with 2.5 though on a DD. I ordered my 3" from TU and I'm not too impressed with their service. They wanted $75 to ship it although they did agree to cut the one section to fit a smaller box for $45 (still too much I think) I ordered it 9/6 and don't have it yet. Due here friday.

Have you considered a new clutch? A stocker won't last long under boost. TU has some well reviewed clutches and they get drop shipped from the manufacturer. I had mine in about 10 days.

OBX LSD should be considered as well. A stock 3.0 will have traction issues with street tires.

Yeah, I am going to go with the 3" turbo back. I am talking with TU as well as FWD. Turbovanman is hopefully going to do my manifold, so hopefully we can all work together to get a functioning down pipe which seems to be the only piece no one has ready.

I have an automatic now, but when I convert to 5spd (which seems like what I am going to do), I will have a nice clutch and flywheel as well. Need to start researching that next. As well as the LSD.

[turbovanman²]

Yeah, I am going to go with the 3" turbo back. I am talking with TU as well as FWD. Turbovanman is hopefully going to do my manifold, so hopefully we can all work together to get a functioning down pipe which seems to be the only piece no one has ready.

I have an automatic now, but when I convert to 5spd (which seems like what I am going to do), I will have a nice clutch and flywheel as well. Need to start researching that next. As well as the LSD.

TU's purple plate and 4 or 6 puck disc will easily hold. Stock flywheel is more than adequate.

DP will be custom which we can do also, then as I posted in my other thread, any vendor 2.5 or 3" system will work. 3" will work nicely with a 5 speed.

The OBX LSD is a cheaper unit and works well, I can't kill one yet, which as you hang around here more, is saying alot, :lol: TU carry's those and he modify's them so they are more reliable-out of the box leaves something to be desired.

[MC#4]

Yeah, I am going to go with the 3" turbo back. I am talking with TU as well as FWD. Turbovanman is hopefully going to do my manifold, so hopefully we can all work together to get a functioning down pipe which seems to be the only piece no one has ready.

I have an automatic now, but when I convert to 5spd (which seems like what I am going to do), I will have a nice clutch and flywheel as well. Need to start researching that next. As well as the LSD.

Not to take anything at all away from turbovanman and shayne, but you can't talk about turbo 3.0 manifolds without mentioning ed kelly. He's got 2 designs that have been proven over the years for a fair price. KMperformance is his website.


Just a few quick tips on the LSD.

OBX unit runs about $400ish. Needs prepped before service. (new bolts/washers/chase threads etc.) Quality has improved over the years and this may not be as critical as it once was.
Quaife makes one too for $1000ish OEM for SRT-4's No prep needed.
OBX is a cheap knockoff of the quife unit.
TU offers prep service to fix OBX flaws for $75. I read somewhere that no one has broken a TU prepped OBX.
You will need new differential bearings to install either one. Timken set 11. $12 or so.
You will need sonnax shim kit to set preload properly. $13

[turbovanman²]

Not to take anything at all away from turbovanman and shayne, but you can't talk about turbo 3.0 manifolds without mentioning ed kelly. He's got 2 designs that have been proven over the years for a fair price. KMperformance is his website.


Shhh, :D :lol:

[NeverLow]

TU's purple plate and 4 or 6 puck disc will easily hold. Stock flywheel is more than adequate.

DP will be custom which we can do also, then as I posted in my other thread, any vendor 2.5 or 3" system will work. 3" will work nicely with a 5 speed.

The OBX LSD is a cheaper unit and works well, I can't kill one yet, which as you hang around here more, is saying alot, :lol: TU carry's those and he modify's them so they are more reliable-out of the box leaves something to be desired.

So you will do the turbo manifold and down pipe, then I can get the rest through vendor. Wonderful. Then I shall await you pricing on that.

OBX LSD looks good too! And I think I would go with the 6 puck since it is going to be a DD. Now I just gotta find a a543 laying around so I can rebuild it too!

---------- Post added at 06:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:50 PM ----------


Not to take anything at all away from turbovanman and shayne, but you can't talk about turbo 3.0 manifolds without mentioning ed kelly. He's got 2 designs that have been proven over the years for a fair price. KMperformance is his website.


Just a few quick tips on the LSD.

OBX unit runs about $400ish. Needs prepped before service. (new bolts/washers/chase threads etc.) Quality has improved over the years and this may not be as critical as it once was.
Quaife makes one too for $1000ish OEM for SRT-4's No prep needed.
OBX is a cheap knockoff of the quife unit.
TU offers prep service to fix OBX flaws for $75. I read somewhere that no one has broken a TU prepped OBX.
You will need new differential bearings to install either one. Timken set 11. $12 or so.
You will need sonnax shim kit to set preload properly. $13

I am going to look into both, but will probably go with the OBX just to save some cash. As long as I have TU prep it, should be alright.

As far as the manifolds go, I am looking through Eds site now, and I see his 2 types. Are there certain benefits/downsides to each type?

Turbovanman - how were u planning to do yours? similar to either of Eds? or did you have a new design you were trying? Because I am open to all ideas. Trying to make this different from any other out there.

[MC#4]

So you will do the turbo manifold and down pipe, then I can get the rest through vendor. Wonderful. Then I shall await you pricing on that.

OBX LSD looks good too! And I think I would go with the 6 puck since it is going to be a DD. Now I just gotta find a a543 laying around so I can rebuild it too!

I snagged the purple plate 6 puck combo but haven't driven on it yet. Should be a good match for your plans as well. Jory had an a543 for sale on the other site for dirty cheap up in NY not too long ago, might still have it.

Awesome page detailing the swap. http://3.0spirit.tripod.com/5speed.html

[NeverLow]

I snagged the purple plate 6 puck combo but haven't driven on it yet. Should be a good match for your plans as well. Jory had an a543 for sale on the other site for dirty cheap up in NY not too long ago, might still have it.

Awesome page detailing the swap. http://3.0spirit.tripod.com/5speed.html

Yeah, I have that page for the swap. Just gotta find the trans and pedals

[MC#4]

I've never personally used either turbo manifold, crossover style is more popular. I think intercooler pipe routing is eaiser?

I can't remember if mods/admin get mad for advertising other sites here. I'll PM it to you.

[turbovanman²]

As far as the manifolds go, I am looking through Eds site now, and I see his 2 types. Are there certain benefits/downsides to each type?

Turbovanman - how were u planning to do yours? similar to either of Eds? or did you have a new design you were trying? Because I am open to all ideas. Trying to make this different from any other out there.

There are pics on the vendor link I gave you earlier of Shayne's setup. I'll get him to post more pics as he has it running now.


I've never personally used either turbo manifold, crossover style is more popular. I think intercooler pipe routing is easier?

I can't remember if mods/admin get mad for advertising other sites here. I'll PM it to you.

Nope, post away.


Here are some pics from that link-

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Welding%20by%20Shayne/workcamera292.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Welding%20by%20Shayne/workcamera293.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Welding%20by%20Shayne/workcamera294.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Welding%20by%20Shayne/workcamera295.jpg

[NeverLow]

That looks awesome! I take it thats what the plenum looks like complete flipped around? Or is it missing the top side?

[MC#4]

There are pics on the vendor link I gave you earlier of Shayne's setup. I'll get him to post more pics as he has it running now.



Nope, post away.


Here are some pics from that link-

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Welding by Shayne/workcamera292.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Welding by Shayne/workcamera293.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Welding by Shayne/workcamera294.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Welding by Shayne/workcamera295.jpg

Ah yes, I've had those pics saved to my PC since I saw them in the original thread :love:. Did you guys ever come up with a price for that setup?

[NeverLow]

Yeah, did u?! Lol. Because i do like the look of that setup and would like to get that mocked up for my set up

[turbovanman²]

That looks awesome! I take it thats what the plenum looks like complete flipped around? Or is it missing the top side?

He made that plenum, he's a fabricator. But that's what you have to do if you put the turbo there.


Ah yes, I've had those pics saved to my PC since I saw them in the original thread :love:. Did you guys ever come up with a price for that setup?

Working on it as we speak.

[NeverLow]

He made that plenum, he's a fabricator. But that's what you have to do if you put the turbo there.


Do any other major modifications need to made to put the turbo there? Or is it just flipping the plenum? Would he be willing to do my plenum like that, but flush on top? I dont want the rivets. And I am thinking powder coating black as well. Could he do porting as well while he has it? I can send my plenum & throttle body to be put together and ported together.

Also, is there a suggested piping kit for that turbo set up? Or did you just take a universal kit and fit it up?

[turbovanman²]

Do any other major modifications need to made to put the turbo there? Or is it just flipping the plenum? Would he be willing to do my plenum like that, but flush on top? I dont want the rivets. And I am thinking powder coating black as well. Could he do porting as well while he has it? I can send my plenum & throttle body to be put together and ported together.

Also, is there a suggested piping kit for that turbo set up? Or did you just take a universal kit and fit it up?

Nope, I think you have to use some spacers for the stock plenum so it clears the thermostat housing, but other than that, its minor tweaking etc.

Those aren't rivets but bolts, I guess he could counter sink them and use convex bolts. The top plate has to be removeable to get access to the bolts for the upper to lower plenum. I am sure he could build you one.

Most likely him or me on the porting.

He made some of the pipes but he bought a universal IC and piping kit from www.cxracing.com on Ebay. If you have the same car, then he could probably duplicate the pipes.

[NeverLow]

Nope, I think you have to use some spacers for the stock plenum so it clears the thermostat housing, but other than that, its minor tweaking etc.

Those aren't rivets but bolts, I guess he could counter sink them and use convex bolts. The top plate has to be removeable to get access to the bolts for the upper to lower plenum. I am sure he could build you one.

Most likely him or me on the porting.

He made some of the pipes but he bought a universal IC and piping kit from www.cxracing.com (http://www.cxracing.com) on Ebay. If you have the same car, then he could probably duplicate the pipes.

Sweet! Def like the set up. And if he would be down to build the custom plenum, I have a core i could send him, or he could modify mine directly. I have a 92 Lebaron LX Convt. So if the piping will be the same, I would like to price that too.

Hopefully, you guys can give me a nice bundle price for manifold, downpipe, plenum mods/porting, & intercooler piping.

[turbovanman²]

Sweet! Def like the set up. And if he would be down to build the custom plenum, I have a core i could send him, or he could modify mine directly. I have a 92 Lebaron LX Convt. So if the piping will be the same, I would like to price that too.

Hopefully, you guys can give me a nice bundle price for manifold, downpipe, plenum mods/porting, & intercooler piping.

Will do, Shayne will post up tonight.

These are some threads on modifying stock and turbocharging engines-

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?64310-How-to-turbo-3.0-%28how-i-did-it%29

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?64672-Offical-3.0-quot-Performance-Guideline-quot-thread

[NeverLow]

Will do, Shayne will post up tonight.

These are some threads on modifying stock and turbocharging engines-

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?64310-How-to-turbo-3.0-(how-i-did-it)

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?64672-Offical-3.0-quot-Performance-Guideline-quot-thread

Wonderful, can't wait to start working with you guys on this. Def like your set up, and hoping we can get some pricing on everything soon so I can get boosted! lol

Those threads are awesome too. Everyone seems to have their own ideas and set ups, cant wait to be just another a different one then everyone.

[shayne]

basically i only used the lower intake, and i made my upper plenum from scratch, the top of the plenum comes off to get to the bolts that bolt the plenum down to the lower intake. compared to a stock plenum its opened up more than the stock casting will allow, and it gets rid of the harsh 90 degree bend into the intake port. there are lots of types of exhaust manifolds out there, i made mine the way i did because of wanting a more efficient setup than a log manifold set-up, the thing to bear in mind it is a bunch more labour intensive to do them this way.
id be more than happy to make up anything anyone wants, i got to sit down and figure out pricing for the exhaust side to quote a price.
i got custom venolia's made and i got to say im really happy with their work and service. with me mailing them a stock piston and for them to be custom made, it was about 6weeks total from me talking to them to my door up here in canada. with them being made 1mm (~.040 over) and stock style wristpins and stock size ring pack the works was approx $900 so it wasnt cheap at all, if you choose to go with them i will gladly pass along the work order number so they could bring up the program to make you a set without you having to send a stock one. ordonti was nice enough to dig up his wo# for me back when he had his made and it helped me a bunch, i only had to send a stock one because there was confusion over the dish volume because ordonti had his made for a lower compression ratio, mine is basically identical to stock, just oversize and 40grams lighter (with wristpins)
hope to have some real data soon from driving my car all built up.

[NeverLow]

Those aren't rivets but bolts, I guess he could counter sink them and use convex bolts. The top plate has to be removeable to get access to the bolts for the upper to lower plenum. I am sure he could build you one.


I do like the topless plenum idea. I would like mine to look like this tho

---------- Post added at 12:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:07 AM ----------


basically i only used the lower intake, and i made my upper plenum from scratch, the top of the plenum comes off to get to the bolts that bolt the plenum down to the lower intake. compared to a stock plenum its opened up more than the stock casting will allow, and it gets rid of the harsh 90 degree bend into the intake port. there are lots of types of exhaust manifolds out there, i made mine the way i did because of wanting a more efficient setup than a log manifold set-up, the thing to bear in mind it is a bunch more labour intensive to do them this way.
id be more than happy to make up anything anyone wants, i got to sit down and figure out pricing for the exhaust side to quote a price.
i got custom venolia's made and i got to say im really happy with their work and service. with me mailing them a stock piston and for them to be custom made, it was about 6weeks total from me talking to them to my door up here in canada. with them being made 1mm (~.040 over) and stock style wristpins and stock size ring pack the works was approx $900 so it wasnt cheap at all, if you choose to go with them i will gladly pass along the work order number so they could bring up the program to make you a set without you having to send a stock one. ordonti was nice enough to dig up his wo# for me back when he had his made and it helped me a bunch, i only had to send a stock one because there was confusion over the dish volume because ordonti had his made for a lower compression ratio, mine is basically identical to stock, just oversize and 40grams lighter (with wristpins)
hope to have some real data soon from driving my car all built up.

How do you feel its more efficient then say Eds Rear Mounted setup? Besides the fact of the placement of the turbo, or is just the relocation of the turbo and use of non-log manifolds increase efficiency. I like the styling of yours, as well as its expected upgraded performance. But saying its very labor intensive makes it sound very expensive. That is the other setup I was thinking about. I dont think the log manifold would be ideal for my DD. Are you using 3" single exhaust with your setup?

I would like to go with the Venolias if they are the best recommended pistons for the setup I am planning. It is ok that they are a little expensive, its ok though. not a lot of thing for this setup are expensive, so I will put it out where it matters. If you could PM me the work order # as well as contact info, I ca start talking with them about what needs to be done. Do you suggest any specific rods to go with them?

Also, what did you do with your valves? Just clean them up? 4 angle valve job? Is that really needed for 10psi/300bhp?

Do you have a build thread to see what you are using overall?

[turbovanman²]

I like Shaynes setup and others that put the turbo there as both headers are feeding it equally, which if you get a TS turbo, it will really help with spool, and I think it makes for an easy DP fab.

[NeverLow]

I like Shaynes setup and others that put the turbo there as both headers are feeding it equally, which if you get a TS turbo, it will really help with spool, and I think it makes for an easy DP fab.

Thats why i like the set up too,probably going to go with that

[turbovanman²]

Here's a GT35R for cheap-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Garrett-GT3582R-turbo-0miles-82A-R-evo-garret-dsm-garett-camaro-Honda-Jdm-/221133928932?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337c9bf9e4&vxp=mtr

[NeverLow]

Here's a GT35R for cheap-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Garrett-GT3582R-turbo-0miles-82A-R-evo-garret-dsm-garett-camaro-Honda-Jdm-/221133928932?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337c9bf9e4&vxp=mtr

Yeah, i found a set up too for like $350 shipped. Gona ask for it from the gf for my bday. Lol

[turbovanman²]

Yeah, i found a set up too for like $350 shipped. Gona ask for it from the gf for my bday. Lol

Real or knock-off?

[NeverLow]

Real or knock-off?

I am guessing a knock off. Seems alright, but you can never tell with eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271009045313?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

(http://www.ebay.com/itm/271009045313?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330629214479?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

[NeverLow]

Ah yes, I've had those pics saved to my PC since I saw them in the original thread :love:. Did you guys ever come up with a price for that setup?

Can this manifold setup be used with a T3 flange instead of T4? Or will the HE341 fit on a T4 flange? A buddy of mine suggests finding a bit smaller turbo than the GT35R, seeing as they dont give any real power until after 10psi. Since its all I want to run, not really any more, he said a bit smaller turbo will help with faster spooling and faster power increase. And sthe HE341 is very close to a 50 trim, not a 60 trim, thought it mite b better. But since the flange is a T4, idk if the smaller turbo will fit.

Now he is a Honda guy, not Mopar. So if his advice does no good here, please let me know and I will continue with my current plan.

[shayne]

i agree that an gt35r is a bit much for a goal of 300bhp. i think if you looked at some other builds you would see that a couple of holsets do the job nicely and can be had in good useable shape for the cost of a knock-off chinese turbo and will likely last longer. i know that the hx-35's compressor map matched up very well with an average 3.0l v6 up to about 450bhp.
the turbo flange is entirely changeable, i am running a t4 flange because its what came on my turbo from shadow, and likely its what i'll stay with when i upgrade to a larger turbo. i have nothing bad to say about anyone elses turbo setup's, mine and ed's are totally different beasts and are catered to different demands, so comparing is kind of a moot point, and yes, a manifold like mine and an equal length version do flow more efficiently and will result in a greater ability to make power, thats why you dont often see log manifolds in the top of any big motorsports competitions unless mandated too. there have been many tests that compare a log to unequal length, to an equal length, and the tubular manifolds always win out, admittedly the equal length is always the most efficient. (i wanted to make mine equal length but i had problems packaging such a manifold in my engine bay) its true that they are more expensive but they wont be made of unobtainium, i just got to sit down and properly figure out where you can have a fair price.
i made a ss 3" exhaust all the way back, with the way i tucked the back manifold in against the block i got room for a 4" plus downpipe for down the road. i made my own exhaust, but there are vendors that make some real nice setup's for a great price.

[turbovanman²]

I am guessing a knock off. Seems alright, but you can never tell with eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271009045313?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

(http://www.ebay.com/itm/271009045313?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330629214479?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Yep, both knock off's but the Chinese have got their quality better in the last few years.


Can this manifold setup be used with a T3 flange instead of T4? Or will the HE341 fit on a T4 flange? A buddy of mine suggests finding a bit smaller turbo than the GT35R, seeing as they dont give any real power until after 10psi. Since its all I want to run, not really any more, he said a bit smaller turbo will help with faster spooling and faster power increase. And sthe HE341 is very close to a 50 trim, not a 60 trim, thought it mite b better. But since the flange is a T4, idk if the smaller turbo will fit.

Now he is a Honda guy, not Mopar. So if his advice does no good here, please let me know and I will continue with my current plan.

If you go with us, we can use any flange you want, so pick the turbo and we'll build to suit.

Your buddy is wrong, the turbo makes power based on the engine size, cylinders, flow etc, so yeah, on a Honda it won't make much power at 10 psi but on a big V6, yes, it will make power. The Holset 341 is a good turbo but the prices have skyrocketed in the last year as everyone wants these. The HX35 is close in size, I actually have a few of those for sale.



i just got to sit down and properly figure out where you can have a fair price.

So hurry up already, get off the computer and make up a price and get your car running, ;)

[RoadWarrior222]

Yah, 3L vs 2L it'll make power at 2/3 of the RPM of the Honda.

[shayne]

yes and no, most honda heads flow a suprisingly large amount of air, and that really can change that theory, but it is a good baseline to think from. it all has to do with how much air the motor moves, but considering a 3l has up to 1.4l more displacement that the smallest worthy honda motor its a safe bet a 3l will make a bunch more power, sometimes there is no replacement for displacement. and no you would never find a gt35 on a honda running 10 psi, why have chicken when you can have steak 30psi ftw.

[turbovanman²]

yes and no, most honda heads flow a suprisingly large amount of air, and that really can change that theory, but it is a good baseline to think from.

They can flow but most make power on lots of boost, you won't find too many fast Honda's running 10 psi on a big turbo.

[NeverLow]

If you go with us, we can use any flange you want, so pick the turbo and we'll build to suit.

The HX35 is close in size, I actually have a few of those for sale.
I am going to be going with you guys for my manifold and downpipe. Most likely it will b a t3 set up for the H341. What are the spec differences with that and the HX35? Also, what condition are you HX35 in and how much are they?

[NeverLow]

i agree that an gt35r is a bit much for a goal of 300bhp. i think if you looked at some other builds you would see that a couple of holsets do the job nicely and can be had in good useable shape for the cost of a knock-off chinese turbo and will likely last longer. i know that the hx-35's compressor map matched up very well with an average 3.0l v6 up to about 450bhp.
the turbo flange is entirely changeable, i am running a t4 flange because its what came on my turbo from shadow, and likely its what i'll stay with when i upgrade to a larger turbo. i have nothing bad to say about anyone elses turbo setup's, mine and ed's are totally different beasts and are catered to different demands, so comparing is kind of a moot point, and yes, a manifold like mine and an equal length version do flow more efficiently and will result in a greater ability to make power, thats why you dont often see log manifolds in the top of any big motorsports competitions unless mandated too. there have been many tests that compare a log to unequal length, to an equal length, and the tubular manifolds always win out, admittedly the equal length is always the most efficient. (i wanted to make mine equal length but i had problems packaging such a manifold in my engine bay) its true that they are more expensive but they wont be made of unobtainium, i just got to sit down and properly figure out where you can have a fair price.
i made a ss 3" exhaust all the way back, with the way i tucked the back manifold in against the block i got room for a 4" plus downpipe for down the road. i made my own exhaust, but there are vendors that make some real nice setup's for a great price.

I am thinkin i am going to use FWD cat back piping, your manifold & downpipe (which i wana do 3"), and a flat black vibrant sleeper muffler to keep the noise down from that 3".

[turbovanman²]

I am going to be going with you guys for my manifold and downpipe. Most likely it will b a t3 set up for the H341. What are the spec differences with that and the HX35? Also, what condition are you HX35 in and how much are they?

The HE341/351/hx35 are all pretty close in size, just trying to get the specs, the KC article is down. I want $250 for the turbo, its complete and in good shape.

[NeverLow]

The HE341/351/hx35 are all pretty close in size, just trying to get the specs, the KC article is down. I want $250 for the turbo, its complete and in good shape.

I found the hx35 is is closer to the 341 then the 351, because it has the 56mm like the 341.

Can you send me pics of the turbo? And is it ready to go in and take 10psi?

[3.0LeBaron]

Not stupid, the biggest problem is controlling it, we are working on it, but until we figure it out, the only auto option is the 3 speed, highway rpm sucks but with a V6, you can gear it low due to the nice down low torque, so that helps, plus if you use LU, then that's even better.

yeah that is how i found this site found the thread about programming the controller and getting the data from it then it sort of just ended before any real progess

[NeverLow]

yeah that is how i found this site found the thread about programming the controller and getting the data from it then it sort of just ended before any real progess

Yeah, thats wat i saw too. Thats y i decided to go with the 5spd set up

[turbovanman²]

yeah that is how i found this site found the thread about programming the controller and getting the data from it then it sort of just ended before any real progess

We are in limbo until someone can break the code, :(

---------- Post added at 12:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:53 AM ----------


I found the hx35 is is closer to the 341 then the 351, because it has the 56mm like the 341.

Can you send me pics of the turbo? And is it ready to go in and take 10psi?

I'll get pics on Tuesday. The article we had with all the specs is lost, but IIRC, the 35 is almost the same as the 351 but has a larger a/r turbine housing, perfect for a V6.

[NeverLow]

I'll get pics on Tuesday. The article we had with all the specs is lost, but IIRC, the 35 is almost the same as the 351 but has a larger a/r turbine housing, perfect for a V6.

Sweet. I am def excited to get this started. Im thinkin ima get the hx35, custom manifold, and downpipe from u and shayne. Hopin we can do bundle pricing. Cant wait to get this started!

[Sundance 6g72]

op. with ms3 and all the money going into the motor, shoot for some bigger injectors than the 3800. brand new, it will be worth it. :)

do you have e85 in your area? i just hit 315whp on 15psi with stock cams. my throttle body is also smaller than your choice plus your header will perform better than my front and rear log. you should be able to do 300+whp on 10 psi with a hx35.


3sx has nice bearing options and if you go with a new crank, try to get a stock forged unit. i am also the 2nd person i know of to run 1g dsm headbolts to secure my crank girdle in.

with ms3 and e85, you can do well over 300whp and be safe. especially with forged pistons. even 93 octane would do but we dont have knock senspors so with 93 you have to take more precausion.

if you neeed timing and fuel maps, pm me. im sure i can get you a decent base tune.

you might wanrt to look into slicks :D

[NeverLow]

op. with ms3 and all the money going into the motor, shoot for some bigger injectors than the 3800. brand new, it will be worth it. :)

do you have e85 in your area? i just hit 315whp on 15psi with stock cams. my throttle body is also smaller than your choice plus your header will perform better than my front and rear log. you should be able to do 300+whp on 10 psi with a hx35.


3sx has nice bearing options and if you go with a new crank, try to get a stock forged unit. i am also the 2nd person i know of to run 1g dsm headbolts to secure my crank girdle in.

with ms3 and e85, you can do well over 300whp and be safe. especially with forged pistons. even 93 octane would do but we dont have knock senspors so with 93 you have to take more precausion.

if you neeed timing and fuel maps, pm me. im sure i can get you a decent base tune.

you might wanrt to look into slicks :D

So MS3X is the way to go? Thats what I was thinking was going to happen. I talked to boost button.com, but they wont even be able to start mapping until Feb 2013. So MS3X was what I was going to go with. Do you know if it runs with MAC OSX? Or do I have to do parallel OS' to run it?

What injectors would you suggest? Was going to go brand new, just was going to use the same ones out of the 3800 supercharged. And what is e85?

What bearings would you suggest for this set up? And who does a good stock forged unit for the crank?

Im def gona stick w/ARP for all main bolts. I have a lot of buddies w/all diff style cars w/turbo builds, and every1 says ARP is the way to go. There are certain things I won't steer away from, and that is one of them. And not gona worry about slicks, because I am not going to be doing track runs. Maybe a couple when I get it all tuned good, just to have times. But thats not my goal.

Def going to need help with maps and tuning once everything goes in, so that will be much appreciated.

[Sundance 6g72]

ms3 is thw best bang for your buck ems with LOADS of features. talk to diy about setting you up. an ms2 will work too (what i use) at a lower cost.

e85 is ethonol at the pump. basically race gas :)

i have 46# injtors for sale. they will do 300whp on e85. they should handle 350-400whp on gas just fine. they are maxed at 315whp on e85.e85 needs more fuel to make the same power but its less prone to detination /safer to run without a knock sensor.


i would not trust anyone to tune a 3.0 stock ecu for boost. ever. all our setups are so different. my current tune would make eds and brents cars lean out on the same boost. just that different

im using king bearings for dohc motors in my stock sohc block.

arp headbolts for the 6g72 are overrated. stock headbolts have been proven at over 500whp on a sohc and well over 700awhp on dohc 6g72s

arp rod cap bolts would be nice but i dont think anyone but the big hp dohc cars use them. dsm headbolts held brents crank in just fine at 500whp. arp dsm headbolts used as main girdle bolts would be nuts :)

whenever your ready to work with megasquirt, lmk and ill help ya out

[NeverLow]

ms3 is thw best bang for your buck ems with LOADS of features. talk to diy about setting you up. an ms2 will work too (what i use) at a lower cost.

e85 is ethonol at the pump. basically race gas :)

i have 46# injtors for sale. they will do 300whp on e85. they should handle 350-400whp on gas just fine. they are maxed at 315whp on e85.e85 needs more fuel to make the same power but its less prone to detination /safer to run without a knock sensor.


i would not trust anyone to tune a 3.0 stock ecu for boost. ever. all our setups are so different. my current tune would make eds and brents cars lean out on the same boost. just that different

im using king bearings for dohc motors in my stock sohc block.

arp headbolts for the 6g72 are overrated. stock headbolts have been proven at over 500whp on a sohc and well over 700awhp on dohc 6g72s

arp rod cap bolts would be nice but i dont think anyone but the big hp dohc cars use them. dsm headbolts held brents crank in just fine at 500whp. arp dsm headbolts used as main girdle bolts would be nuts :)

whenever your ready to work with megasquirt, lmk and ill help ya out

So u think ms2 will suffice? I was hoping it would, but not entirely sure.

Dont have an e85 pump anywhere in reasonable difference. But since they will still work fine with premium, how much are your 46# injectors? What brand are they? Are they brand new?

Any good places for the king bearings? Stock forged crank? Stock dsm head bolts?

[Sundance 6g72]

3sx has the bearings on their websight. they also have forged cranks. keep in mind that the forged crank is overkill for 300whp the stocker has seen over 500whp without breaking.

i just pulled the dsm headbolts from the junkyard. any 4g63 before 1995. they dont yeild when torqued so its not a big deal. if i bought new, id go through dsm graveyard for them. they were just a fun cheep mod that has proven to help in the 500-600hp range


the injectors were origonally bought from zzp in michigan and used in a built GTP then sold to me. they should be bosch injectors (what i was told). they are very nice, just time for me to upgrade. if you message me, we can work somthing out

---------- Post added at 02:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:37 PM ----------

something i just thought of.. the dohc forged crank motors had oil squirters in the crank, or something fancy like that. i would assume its okay to use a forged crank on a sohc block but i dont know anyone who has done it

[NeverLow]

3sx has the bearings on their websight. they also have forged cranks. keep in mind that the forged crank is overkill for 300whp the stocker has seen over 500whp without breaking.

i just pulled the dsm headbolts from the junkyard. any 4g63 before 1995. they dont yeild when torqued so its not a big deal. if i bought new, id go through dsm graveyard for them. they were just a fun cheep mod that has proven to help in the 500-600hp range


the injectors were origonally bought from zzp in michigan and used in a built GTP then sold to me. they should be bosch injectors (what i was told). they are very nice, just time for me to upgrade. if you message me, we can work somthing out

---------- Post added at 02:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:37 PM ----------

something i just thought of.. the dohc forged crank motors had oil squirters in the crank, or something fancy like that. i would assume its okay to use a forged crank on a sohc block but i dont know anyone who has done it

I will check out 3sx for the bearings, but since its proven that the stock crank will hold, I will save some money and go that route. So I don't really need dam head bolts? can just use the stock ones?

[Sundance 6g72]

correct stock main, rod, and headbolts do fine at over twice the power you want and like 8000-9000 rpm or something rediculous

[NeverLow]

correct stock main, rod, and headbolts do fine at over twice the power you want and like 8000-9000 rpm or something rediculous

Sweet! Money saved that can be spent elsewhere!

[NeverLow]

Picked all 5spd parts today, as well as 3" exhaust which I will be adding my own specific muffler to after the new motor goes in with the DP and manifold etc. Thanks lengel!

[NeverLow]

Just another update. I leave for an 8 day vac a on Monday. During which time, my car will be painted and top temporarily fixed using plastidip. Pics to come when I get back at the end of the month! Rule # 1 finally going to be in effect!

[Ondonti]

Kinda missed this but I didn't bother upgrading anything in my He341 Spirit except increased ring gaps (which will increase blowbye some). DSM 1G headbolts used in our mains should be just as capable as ARP bolts unless you get the tool steel stuff (H11, L19 or something like that). 2G DSM headbolts are garbage. I don't see a reason to upgrade those parts but you can do it. I don't think I have enough data to prove upgrades are necessary when you have proper combustion. Stock headbolts are good to 1000+ but apparently over 1000 they fatigue per two guys who built thousand hp daily drivers (not race cars) and you either need tool steel ARP (not the basic ARP) or custom from another company (huge $), or replace headbolts on some sort of schedule. Rodbolts do get upgraded when you buy fancy rods but mostly because the rods are designed with those fasteners in mind. If rpms won't kill stock rodbolts then its not something to worry about HP wise as far as I am concerned.

I think what might be a good upgrade is keeping the oil system happy. I don't like my crankcase evacuation system and I have no oil cooling of any kind (nor a temperature guage to show I need to cool things down). I am thinking long term here. I don't beat on my motors constantly and hardly have opportunities to go WOT as I commute to work. Safe timing, proper AFR, sufficient octane fuel will keep things happy. I want to run more timing out of boost to help with fuel economy but I can't do that thanks to having no control over timing in boost vs n/a atmospheres. I run bone stock timing on 92 octane and 10 pounds to try to stay safe. I can't really say if I am pushing the envelope (going too far) or not going far enough. I have not felt motivated to do any knock listening with my microphone setup. I have also not felt motivated to record the status screen from my DRB2000 scanner while doing a pull but I do want to get that done next year. Would be good info, especially if I take a video recording which I can then chart out. I could probably just do that in my a670 Spirit and not worry about wheelspin in the rainy season. Should be the same numbers if I put in a 5 speed ecu.

I really really really want to run more timing out of boost in my Holset setup but I don't know how I would get that done and be satisfied. Maybe Rob could just burn a CAL that drops timing as vacuum drops and then increase the RPM limiter. These problems make Megasquirt very very tempting but I don't want a daily driver that is out of action when something goes wrong (may never happen but the stock stuff has not let me down on a long trip etc). Eventually I will probably ditch OEM ECU in my Spirit but I don't have the time now to get the bugs out, datalog anything, or get the tune correct. Megasquirt will let you do all the fun stuff as long as you have time. I think stock motor can handle a lot of abuse with big ring gaps and staying out of knock. I see my nissan buddies run 18psi on n/a 9.1:1 pistons and very little tuning control (mail order tunes). They eventually fail. I do think 120mph on 92 octane is possible in a P body with my Holset setup (aka, boltons motor with no special cams/heads/intake manifolds) on stock pistons with big gaps and increased rev limiter tuned by MS. For long term survivability, a 110mph car with megasquirt should probably never have a motor failure as long as your oil pump survives and the tune stays good. Eventually you will lose HP as the rings need a refresh and you get more blowbye. Thus is engine life.

[Ondonti]

BTW, I hate the HE341/351 oddball V band clamp setup and you can buy standard fitment turbine housings for hx35 turbos if you can afford them. I went with the free turbo I had (351 would be better but not free) but at this point in my finances I would just have bought something that is easy to attach a downpipe to. I did more thorough research on the he341/351 v band clamp issue thanks to leaks I still have and wish I had bought the right parts to begin with (OEM $44 dollar clamp, $40-60 adapter flange, either to 3" or 4"). Those parts change the affordability of an he341/351.

[NeverLow]

Another update: Car is fully sanded and ready for paint while I am gone. I am doing slight body modifications as well, antenna delete, 3r brake light deletse, not badges, etc. If anyone needs the antenna assembly, let me know. Works fine, just no antenna stalk. Full wiring from antenna to radio tho. PM me with any interest.

And thanks for all the info Brent, but theres so much there, kinda got lost lol

[NeverLow]

Cars is drying now! Just a few pics before the paint. Shows the subtle yet slick minor body alterations during prep. 3rd brake light delete, antenna delete, debadge, fill in/fix dents & rust, fill in small area around the grill, and a few other little things here and there. Will take/post pics 2mrw after getting it all back together. Next week, plastidip the top for the winter, then onto find my clear front marker housings for my switchbacks! Slowly but surely coming together :D

[NeverLow]

1st pic when it was dryed the next morning. Will have more when i get nice shots when the top is done!

[MC#4]

very cool!

[shayne]

i like it, i want to do my car in john deere blitz black.

[NeverLow]

Thanks guys, glad u like it, i LOVE it! It came out better than i expected. Besides the awesome new paint job, im more excited about the removal of all the rust on the body, 90% of the dents, pin stripe/badges, antenna, and 3rd brake light. Got 1 or 2 more exterior fixes/changes (clear front turn signals for switchbacks, new side marker trim pieces filled in to completely get rid of all 4, fill in high beam holes in headlights, fix headlight motor, etc), then its finishing up the interior (back seat to match front two, new headliner, fiberglass two 8" subs into rear panels, new carpet, other slight mods), motor/trans/suspension, and my FREE car will be complete.

Hoping to have the motor/trans/suspension done by this time next year. Still need to find a good 5spd 3.50FD (since its a daily and any extra revs and mpgs i can get will help), figure out wat front suspension set up i wana go with the kyb gas adjust in the rear (possible subaru strut conversion for front konis).

Starting motor tear down soon, and after i recoop holiday money, can start ordering parts and building back up. Hoping to do motor/trans swap all at once. So i only have to be carless for a weekend or so. Luckily, i have a 2nd motor, so i can take my time! 1st turbo car, 1st mopar, 1st full self build (with help on parts, block work, and tuning), so excited!

[RoadWarrior222]

Hmmm don't de-characterise it too much more or people will be like "What did you do to that ragtop 'stang?"

[NeverLow]

Hmmm don't de-characterise it too much more or people will be like "What did you do to that ragtop 'stang?"

Just a few things to be diff/one of a kind. Not tryin to look like a ford, ew lol :p

[Rrider]

FWD conversion! Nice job on the paint.

[NeverLow]

FWD conversion! Nice job on the paint.

Haha thanks