+1mm Valves and questions..

[Omniglh134]

I am building my motor back finally and I was wondering, if I go with the +1mm vlaves what will I have to change...? Thank you.

[1BADVAN]

I would like to know too.

[T-Bohn]

Well the head needs ground to accept the new larger valves...The calibration to adjust to the higher flow of the head with your new valves, this may put the injectors at their limit ( depending on what you have) so they might need up'ed as well.

Not much else as far as I know...

[forcedfedmopar]

as far as machine work. The larger +1 valves can go into stock seats. And most machine shops will charge you for just a valve job as there is no need for larger/new seats. Obviously cleaning up around the seat afterwards to take advantage of the increased flow possibilites would be a good idea. and depending on how well of porting is done a new cal would be a good thing.

[RoadWarrior222]

Obviously cleaning up around the seat afterwards to take advantage of the increased flow possibilites would be a good idea. and depending on how well of porting is done a new cal would be a good thing.

Yah, because if you haven't done any deshrouding and don't do any deshrouding, it is possible that big valves will make absolutely no difference, maybe even run slower, because they make the effective shrouded side curtain area larger.

[turbovanman²]

They do drop in but without any port work or the seat angles changed etc, its not worth doing. I would also install better valve springs as at this point, the stockers are probably pretty tired.

[boost geek]

I used to lap the vlvesand openn up the bowles ann seats to the visible ringleft by the laping compoundverry care fullywith a die grinder anda sanding drum, dont hit the ring !some of my big imsa valves were put on stock seats took for myever to open them up far enou g my htyping sux:m:mad:ad:

[Omniglh134]

Okay, I have the head off and all apart, Are you saying to get the head ported also or it won't make a difference? Sorry I am confused.

[RoadWarrior222]

That's about the size of it.

If you look at "staged" builds for other models, you'll find larger valves don't go in until stage 4 or stage 5. That's usually after stage 2 porting and stage 3 chamber work and cams.... (Though there's completely no standard as to what a "stage" is, and some (ricers natch) are ridiculous, going up to stage 20 or 30 builds... however, you tend to get a bit of a feel for it)

[turbovanman²]

Okay, I have the head off and all apart, Are you saying to get the head ported also or it won't make a difference? Sorry I am confused.

Correct, at this point, they'll be simply new valves but unless you port etc, then you won't see any gains.

[Omniglh134]

Any Idea where I can get a head done at?

[moe44688]

Steve menegon does some really good work from what I hear. He will be doing a 782 head for me, prices are pretty fair as well. You can find him in the general vendors section.

I know I spelled his last name wrong lol but seems close.

[RoadWarrior222]

If you wanna tackle it yourself, watch the vid in this thread and you'll probably know more than a local backstreet "cut on some chebbys" type shop that might offer to port it for you. http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?67674-Tuning-quot-god-quot-David-Vizard...&highlight=vizard

First attempt with those tips will probably give you a hotter street motor, make those +1s count for a bit, but if you want full race development take it to the experts.

[Omniglh134]

Any idea's on cost? thanks

[4 l-bodies]

Import valves are $15 each. Really good valves are over twice that. You can easily spend $400+ just on a simple valve job, resurface, new or lined guides, fresh valve seals, and assembly. No other parts. Spring are around $40-80 depending on what you buy. Rule of thumb is +1mm ported head is 1/3 parts, 1/3 machine shop labor, 1/3 porting labor. You can easily spend $1G on a +1mm head done by people that know how to do them.
Todd

[RoadWarrior222]

The cheapskate route would go something like... get a "core" beater head that "needs valves" for cheap, get cheapest used, new or crossed from strange application valves, take it to get valvejob done, then "5 angle" it by hand, and hone out the seat some, open up the chambers around the valves, smooth and blend that all in, cut back the guide bosses, and open the ports as much as you dare with reference to cutaways, smooth and blend everything, use all the right angles and tricks, put a 60 grit finish on the intakes, make the chamber look like molten metal, then get it skimmed. $200 in machine work, $100 or so in parts, $100 in materials... if you get lucky.