intake manifold bolts, thread sealer or not?

[inmyshadow]

I always forget. Ready to put the intake manifold on. FSM doesn't mention anything about the intake manifold bolts or exhaust manifold studs.

Remind me Please.

Later
James

[contraption22]

My intake manifold bolts sometimes weep oil. It drips on the exhaust manifold and smokes for a few seconds. I have used several different kinds of sealer on them.
But the answer is yes, I would use it.

[zin]

Especially on the exhaust studs, they go into water... Personally, I'd seal any non-blind hole, just to be anal.

Mike

[turbovanman²]

Yes on the lower exhaust studs, and some of the intake threads go into head bolt holes so oil weeps down, so anti-seized on the others, goop on those.

[GLHNSLHT2]

1st, use studs on the intake. Makes the chance of stripping threads so much less. Use copper rtv on all of them. It'll keep all the studs from leaking and if you have to get the exhaust studs out they'll come out much easier.

[Directconnection]

Never seen anyone strip an intake bolt.... they shouldn't be torquing the snot out of those.

[GLHNSLHT2]

then you haven't done very many I'd guess. C'mon Steve, it's aluminum, it get's heat cycled a bunch. You should know you don't use bolts if at all possible. I've had them strip with less than 100in-lbs of torque. FSM is 220in-lbs. With studs I can do 240in-lbs if I want and not sweat it usually.

[turbovanman²]

Jay is right, they strip out all the time, I just heli-coil them all, takes 10 mins.

[RoadWarrior222]

I think he means, "Any bolt in aluminum that I have been the only one ever to torque correctly and loosen appropriately, has never stripped out, stuff that's been hacked at by ham fisted amateurs is another story" .. coz that's how I'd put it. :D

[trannybuster]

Jay is right, they strip out all the time, I just heli-coil them all, takes 10 mins.

Thats the correct way and should of been that way from factory..IMO

[supercrackerbox]

Thats the correct way and should of been that way from factory..IMO

While I certainly agree with this, Ray and I were talking about that one night. 16 holes on each head for the manifolds, and 9 holes for the valve covers on each cylinder head. Now multiply that by the million or so 2.2/2.5 engines that Chrysler built from '82-'94. The time and expense would have been astronomical.

[RoadWarrior222]

From their POV they were meant to be fastened once, run for 100,000 miles then that's their obligation discharged.

[4 l-bodies]

Never seen anyone strip an intake bolt.... they shouldn't be torquing the snot out of those.
Many use 1 piece intake bolts on 2 piece manifolds. Not nearly enough thread engagement. Many people probably are not aware of this because of the age of parts, # of owners of these parts, and countless times many of these motors have come apart.
Todd

[DevoBuzz]

And I think the log manifold bolts are shorter still - so if you use them on a 1 piece you may strip some threads.

[supercrackerbox]

Log intake bolts will only engage 2-3 threads on a later intake; I actually didn't know there was a difference between the 2-piece and 1-piece intake bolts.

[turbovanman²]

While I certainly agree with this, Ray and I were talking about that one night. 16 holes on each head for the manifolds, and 9 holes for the valve covers on each cylinder head. Now multiply that by the million or so 2.2/2.5 engines that Chrysler built from '82-'94. The time and expense would have been astronomical.

We never said the other bolt holes, just the intake manifold holes, :p


Log intake bolts will only engage 2-3 threads on a later intake; I actually didn't know there was a difference between the 2-piece and 1-piece intake bolts.

Me either, used one piece bolts with 2 piece lowers, I'll have to go check now.

[GLHNSLHT2]

stud it and forget it.

[supercrackerbox]

We never said the other bolt holes, just the intake manifold holes, :p

True, but I've heli-coiled a handfull of valve cover bolt holes over the years too.