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85shelbycharger
01-04-2006, 04:29 PM
This is hard to explain so please bear with me while I try.
This has happened occasionally for a while now, but now it is starting to do it all the time.
When I let out on the clutch and start to accelerate, the car starts to bog down, making a "popping" sound. If I can manage to keep it from stalling out, once I get moving it is fine until I shift again and the same problem occurs. The car starts to bog out. I have no idea whats wrong and the car isn't throwing any codes. HELP!

Clay
01-04-2006, 04:56 PM
are you getting *any* codes at all? Ie, you should ALWAYS get a 55, and typically with "us", a 12.

Last LM I had that gave me no codes what so ever ended up being bad.

clay

85shelbycharger
01-04-2006, 04:58 PM
Yea I get the code 55 for end of codes, but thats it.

85shelbycharger
01-04-2006, 05:12 PM
I'm thinking that it has something to do with the fuel system due to how it is bogging out. Thing is, I just put in a new pump, new tank, new filter and replaced the rubber lines all 3 months ago. Think it might be something with the injectors?

Clay
01-04-2006, 05:18 PM
Im leaning towards fuel myself. Sounds like to much when you let off the gas. Maybe running way to rich?

Have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it?

85shelbycharger
01-04-2006, 05:46 PM
Im leaning towards fuel myself. Sounds like to much when you let off the gas. Maybe running way to rich?

Have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it?

When I let off the gas it seems normal. At idle, it seems to be ok but when I rev it up a little it just doens't sound right.

I haven't put a gauge on it yet...thats not too bad of an idea.

turbovanmanČ
01-04-2006, 05:54 PM
If fuel pressure and volume check out, check cam timing, could have jumped a tooth.

altered7151
01-04-2006, 08:01 PM
Sounds like when you have a bad map sensor, but you'll get a code 13 on that usually. I second simon with checking the cam timing.

85shelbycharger
01-05-2006, 12:48 AM
Looks like I'll be busy tomorrow checking all this stuff. Thanks guys for the suggestions. What do you think I should check first (what's more common to happen than another?)

GLHS592
01-05-2006, 12:59 AM
I'd start with fuel pressure.

MAP sensor is easy to check if you have a known good one. Usually, the code 13 pops up really quick. So, I'm not sure on that one.

You'll have to pull the crank pulley off to check the timing marks. It CAN be a pain, though I've got that down to about 10 minutes. :)

85shelbycharger
01-05-2006, 01:01 AM
MAP sensor is the easiest to check if you have a known good one. Usually, the code 13 pops up really quick. So, I'm not sure on that one.

You'll have to pull the crank pulley off to check the timing marks. It CAN be a pain, though I've got that down to about 10 minutes. :)

I have about 20 extra map sensors laying around haha so I'll try that first.
As for the timing, I have it down to a 10 minute job too haha. It seems that once a week I'm setting the timing for someone around here because they dont' know how (BIlly and Rob haha). That'll work out good anyways because I've been wanting to swap on my A/C delete pulley anyways to go along with the A/C delete bracket.

85shelbycharger
01-05-2006, 08:26 PM
UPDATE
Well I just got finished trying out a few of your suggestions.

First I tried a different map sensor. Well the first one I tried, the car wouldn't start so I tried one more with the same result. So I ended up putting the same one back on.

The last thing I did was check the timing. When I pulled the upper timing belt cover off, it was obvious that the belt was a little loose. So I pulled the crank pulley and everything else associated with getting to the timing belt off as well. I pulled the belt to reassure myself that the marks were lined up and then put everything back together, this time the belt was tight.

So after doing that I just tried driving it and I'm getting the same bogging out and popping noise under acceleration.

Tomorrow, my plan is to go and borrow a fuel pressure gauge from my buddies at the local Chrysler garage and see whats going on with the fuel system.

Any other ideas are greatly appreciated.

85shelbycharger
01-06-2006, 04:10 PM
ANother Update

Well I called up my buddy George who works at the Chrysler garage last night and he told me to drive down today and he'd go for a drive w/me so he could help me diagnose what is wrong. Well I did drive down today and the whole way home...and the only problem was that...well there was no problem. The car ran fine the entire time and didn't act up once. I guess this is just another case of the legendary self fixing Chryslers :p

Subliminal
01-06-2006, 04:15 PM
Naw. The car just heard through the grapevine that a tech would be riding in it, so it was on its best behavior. Happens to me EVERY time i have to take my car in for something.

Pesky cars! ;)

3nglenn
01-06-2006, 05:50 PM
Just curious Pat what kind of engine set up you have in your SC. Is it a stock T1 or converted to a T2...well, you know what I mean. Per your last post you mentioned all was well. Do you still have the original LM to try if she act's up again? I'm leaning towards giving your distibutor, wires, plugs, grounds, etc. a good once over too. Keep us posted on how things work out.:nod: G.P.

GLHS592
01-06-2006, 05:58 PM
Another thing. Are you SURE the timing marks are lined up correctly? I always line up the marks, put the belt on, tighten it up, and turn the motor over a couple times to see if everything is right. I also start the car before I put everything back together to check belt tension. Nothing stinks worse than putting it all back together and then having to take it all back apart to adjust belt tension.

Force Fed Mopar
01-06-2006, 06:36 PM
I assume you have checked for vacuum leaks and/or pinched hoses?

85shelbycharger
01-07-2006, 12:06 AM
Just curious Pat what kind of engine set up you have in your SC. Is it a stock T1 or converted to a T2...well, you know what I mean. Per your last post you mentioned all was well. Do you still have the original LM to try if she act's up again? I'm leaning towards giving your distibutor, wires, plugs, grounds, etc. a good once over too. Keep us posted on how things work out.:nod: G.P.

Bone stock Turbo 1 with the MP computer upgrade. Yeah I still have the original computer too.
I'll check the grouds as well since the plugs, wires, HEP, rotor, and dist cap are all brand new as of a month ago.

Drove it to work tonight as well and it dind't act up at all :confused:

85shelbycharger
01-07-2006, 12:08 AM
Another thing. Are you SURE the timing marks are lined up correctly? I always line up the marks, put the belt on, tighten it up, and turn the motor over a couple times to see if everything is right. I also start the car before I put everything back together to check belt tension. Nothing stinks worse than putting it all back together and then having to take it all back apart to adjust belt tension.

Yep, I'm absolutely positive that they are lined up. I had Billy in the car cranking the motor over and had him do it three times. Marks still lined up after that. Trust me, I know the feeling of having it all together and having to redo it again haha. I taught myself how to do the timing when I first put my SC on the road and I think I went through the whole process 3 times before I got it right :p

85shelbycharger
01-07-2006, 12:08 AM
I assume you have checked for vacuum leaks and/or pinched hoses?

Actually no I haven't done that. What is the best route to take in checking for cracked or leaky vac lines?

Clay
01-07-2006, 10:07 AM
rip em all out and put in a vacuum block!! :)

Another good way is to get a small bottle of propane, like for a handheld propane torch, and put a rubber hose on it. Start the engine, turn the propane bottle on, and start running the rubber hose along the vacuum lines. If there is a leak, it will suck in the propane and the idle will change.

clay

Lee'sdaytona
01-10-2006, 09:17 PM
check your fuel pressure regulator too. Sniff around on the vacumm hose that attaches to the FPR to smell for fuel. Correct me if i'm wrong, but this could be your problem, fuel leaking into the vacuume system
-Lee

85shelbycharger
01-11-2006, 12:00 AM
Well it's been about a week since I first posted and it is still fine...I guess that my car is possessed haha

WVRampage
01-12-2006, 08:08 AM
clean the conector on the wiring harness on the intake for the injectors some time that will cause a surging problem.

85shelbycharger
01-12-2006, 06:45 PM
Sweet, thanks Luke. I'll check into that if it starts acting up on me again :thumb:

LeGweg
01-12-2006, 07:34 PM
Actually no I haven't done that. What is the best route to take in checking for cracked or leaky vac lines?

The best route to take in checking for cracked or leaky vac lines on a 20+ year old car IMO is to rip 'em all out and put in new ones :)