Anyone had a RMVB apart?

[turbovanman²]

I have one apart, I am assuming Cheetah? and as luck would have it, I had everything laid out and bumped it, now can't figure out a few valves. Checked the website, nothing for these and they are closed, sigh.

[RoadWarrior222]

As far as I understood it, they're all sufficiently different to screw you up.

Dunno if you'll have better luck with archive.org if you know what/where to head for.

[turbovanman²]

I messed up 2 valves, pretty sure I got one right but the TV one has me stumped, :banghead:

[RoadWarrior222]

This thread HAD pics, but they were hosted on facebook and something seems screwed up...
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?37092-possible-Sticky-Cheetah-RMVB-pics
(Maybe need to be logged in or on 1BadVan's friend list, or he forgot and moved/deleted them)

Dave (bryan) had one..
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?52258-Rebuild-Turbo-Minivan-Part-1&p=709551&viewfull=1#post709551
Could ask if he got more pix.

A thumbnail from google's image cache to squint at if the fullsize pic can't be got back...

[turbovanman²]

Oh, almost, so I now can put the TV together, I had it wrong but the other one is hidden, bottom right, need to know where to put the ball bearing. Thanks.

[A.J.]

I have a customer that has a RMVB that I'm going to trade for labor but it's still in the trans. It might be a couple of weeks before I get it out. I'm waiting for a different trans to instal before I remove it. I'll check to see if you still need it when I get it out.

A.J.

[turbovanman²]

I pm'd Matt, I have the pics, saved my azz as I did have it wrong, :banghead: Had the spring in the TV valve in the stock way, wrong and put the ball bearing between the valve instead of at the bottom.

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/3138_1148156387457_7715607_n.jpg

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/3138_1148156427458_7151672_n.jpg

[turbovanman²]

Well that was a waste of f*cking time, got it all together and 3rd brings my van to a grinding halt???? 1-2 work perfectly, hit 3rd and it binds up and wants to lock up. This just caps a perfect week of hell, :censored:

[RoadWarrior222]

Ick, something ain't releasing or something, glancing at it, I'd double check the one with the ball went in the right way round, since that seems easiest to get backwards.

[roachjuice]

Well that was a waste of f*cking time, got it all together and 3rd brings my van to a grinding halt???? 1-2 work perfectly, hit 3rd and it binds up and wants to lock up. This just caps a perfect week of hell, :censored: question: how much trans fluid have you been through? or do you just reuse it all?
i agree with rw222. but take a break from it for a day. then take it apart. its gotta be something simple.

[4 l-bodies]

Simon,
I snappped this one pic of mine when I had it apart.
Todd

[1BADVAN]

Well that was a waste of f*cking time, got it all together and 3rd brings my van to a grinding halt???? 1-2 work perfectly, hit 3rd and it binds up and wants to lock up. This just caps a perfect week of hell, :censored:

That happened to me twice, i hope you weren't driving it but testing it on the stands as on the stands it may dot have left a ton of shavings in the tranny, the first time when it happend while i was driving it, the tranny looked like someone dumped a bag of aluminum dust in it. Either way hopefully it is a quick fix.

my problem was that the Reverse/low (i think it was that one) band actuator cap was put on upside down so it wouldn't completely release the first drum.


I hope that makes sense

This cap was upside down.
41580

Should be able to drop the pan and check/ fix it if this is the problem

[RoadWarrior222]

I snappped this one pic of mine when I had it apart. LOL, I have that same T-bar driver and used it on VBs here. Those tx screws take some breaking lose sometimes. I actually managed to loosen the shaft in mine and bought another one.

---------- Post added at 12:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:31 PM ----------

I did something wrong on my auto one first time I played with it, I think I found it from running on the stands, I'm a little foggy about it, but symptoms were similar, anyway, think I actuated all the valves and found one only was either pointlessly moving it's "plug" part side to side in a chamber, or a different one could move side to side but didn't actually open or close anything (Can't remember which was which because I think I noticed one wrong before reassembly) anyway... point being is that all the plug things and gaps have functions, and if you wiggle them all each way and something doesn't seem to do anything... then consider it possibly wrong... but bear in mind any mods like stopper balls or rods that don't give them full travel.

[turbovanman²]

I am going to call Turbo Action Monday, apparently their tech department doesn't work Fridays'?

Had to put my stocker back in to get home and of course, works perfectly fine.

[zin]

Damn racecar junk!:p

Mike

[turbovanman²]

Damn racecar junk!:p

Mike

No doubt, :banghead:

Was kinda neat having to shift there for the few secs I had it in. The only really crappy part is no LU control, they completely deleted that circuit.

[RoadWarrior222]

Guess we'll have to put our thinking caps on for the lockup... gotta be some way to rig it with an external valve... and there's gotta be some solenoid valve we can steal from something...

[turbovanman²]

Guess we'll have to put our thinking caps on for the lockup... gotta be some way to rig it with an external valve... and there's gotta be some solenoid valve we can steal from something...

They delete the passage, but trying to get ahold of Chad as his keep the LU.

[zin]

Seems like, if the input shaft, etc is still there, routing some fluid to it shouldn't be too difficult, a Fuel solenoid from a nitrous kit should work... Opens to 150PSI+, .125 orifice (bigger are available if needed), and compatible with hydrocarbons...

If you decide to go that route, let me know, I've got a few spares floating around and wouldn't mind contributing to the cause (since I'll likely want to do this trick too!)...

Mike

[guhfluh]

I just so happen to have taken apart my Killback RMVB WITH LOCKUP tonight and snapped a bunch of pics with my phone. I didnt get finished yet before the phone died though.

I took it apart because the line pressure regulator valve and converter regulator valve are about impossible to move in their bore and take pliers to remove...it has been this way for a while and probably why my line pressure is 165psi minimum and maybe why it has killed the lockup. I want to get the line pressure down before I put the trans back together with new JD Low Vis Hy-Gard.

If anyone is interested, I can post the pics up. The VB spacer plate is stamped "PAT PEND", BUT since Chad cant be found, Im not sure if he minds or ever really tried to patent anything.

It is missing one ball that Steve Lockett recommended I remove, but I dont think it should matter and I should be able to find the info on where it goes. It was a nylon ball.

[zin]

Pictures are always nice! Especially relevant ones!:eyebrows:

"Patent Pending" is sometimes used as a trick to discourage folks with something to loose from copying your product, even though you haven't (or can't) spend the money to apply for an actual patent... Not saying that's what was done here, but it's something I'd consider doing if I was in a similar situation...

Mike

[turbovanman²]

Nylon ball-

http://web.archive.org/web/20031209062246/http://www.omniturbo.com/Mopar+Pages/Tranny%20upgrades%20detail.htm

[RoadWarrior222]

Couldn't see in that the nylon ball bit you were referring to, but on a later stock valvebody....
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?48712-Used-auto-installed-big-problems-noises-no-shift....&p=655303&viewfull=1#post655303

That's if you've got the LP reg screw at teh top left, the leftest lowest ball is the plastic one...

[guhfluh]

http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn391/guhfluh/A64CAE58-20D9-4B63-AF2B-017C6B6BD349-143-000000D64F0924B3.jpg
http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn391/guhfluh/4A78F4F1-EA19-4D2E-93F3-00AE3C08F499-143-000000D65724FE05.jpg
http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn391/guhfluh/F0B4AC4C-3237-4823-8529-7BB46C0DEA1D-143-000000D67557B6F8.jpg
http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn391/guhfluh/5641CAD1-CDBF-4324-8AA0-7D650214606B-143-000000D5575D6D0B.jpg
http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn391/guhfluh/FDD07E62-DB3D-4E22-900A-7B3419FF96EA-143-000000D3D8541457.jpg
http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn391/guhfluh/30B3633A-317D-47D3-875E-2C3758531E45-143-000000D401FD231A.jpg
http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn391/guhfluh/C2C69BE8-E185-4151-843F-676925026B16-143-000000D6186B80CA.jpg
http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn391/guhfluh/AC3B95F6-5CF2-4F58-A3E7-77B9D95D546C-143-000000DA3BEF5C49.jpg
http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn391/guhfluh/67E7ED4A-1C43-4DEB-8CD2-2CCB6672D659-143-000000D63615264F.jpg

And more in my album on photobucket. I still haven't finished uploading them all or taking all of the pics i need yet though. There is plenty going on with passages drilled and walls ground through combined with spacer plate mods.

I do remember that Chad used the ball to drag the release of the kickdown/2nd gear band on the 2-3 shift and it burnt a few bands in Steve's transmissions, so he recommended it's removal, and I have not had any issues, but my trans is built with parts and tricks from Steve.

[RoadWarrior222]

Were the penny and nickel in there to shim it or was that a "for scale" thing???

[turbovanman²]

Nice, thanks.

Wow, alot of metal in there, :censored:

[guhfluh]

It came with free Canadian money inside! LOL. They are used to shim the valve from movement and disable 1st gear engine braking via the L/R band, I believe. Removing the $0.11 should allow engine braking, but I don't like having it at all. It's a massive hit if you're doing anything above like 5mph and downshift.

I wasn't too happy with the amount of metal inside either! The pan looks "normal", and the rest of the trans looks fine besides the diff, but finding the metal *inside* the VB wasn't comforting.

Reverse engineering this VB doesn't look like fun to me. Many different passages drilled in the spacer plate(haven't determined if it's fully custom or stock modded) and many new fluid paths in each VB half that were drilled or ground through. My plan is to use another core VB half with the regulator valves and mirror all of the mods from Chad's, but I don't really have the means or time to completely reverse engineer it and figure out why everything is done and what each does. If anyone wants to take a crack at it though, I am taking plenty of pics and I can take more specific ones if needed, just let me know.

[RoadWarrior222]

Hmmmm I dunno, 11c not to engine brake... *rubs chin* *sucks teeth*

[turbovanman²]

That metal is the TC, I have the same stuff in my trans right now, again, :banghead:

[guhfluh]

I'm not sure the 11 cent Canadian mod works on a stock modded valvebody though...I'd have to refer to the manual.

I definately like not having engine braking in 1st. Acts similar to a manual trans at high road speeds and freewheels until the rpms come up high enough and catch. Though, if it would downshift softer I wouldn't mind having it sometimes.

[guhfluh]

I just so happen to have taken apart my Killback RMVB WITH LOCKUP tonight and snapped a bunch of pics with my phone. I didnt get finished yet before the phone died though.

I took it apart because the line pressure regulator valve and converter regulator valve are about impossible to move in their bore and take pliers to remove...it has been this way for a while and probably why my line pressure is 165psi minimum and maybe why it has killed the lockup.I want to correct my statement. It looks to be the (converter clutch) switch valve along with the regulator valve that require large pliers to move in(and remove from) the VB. The switch valve not moving freely would explain my converter clutch dying.

I'll finish taking pics of everything else in the RMVB tonight.

[guhfluh]

Chad's spacer over a "stock" spacer
http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn391/guhfluh/81D96627-7EBE-4019-80E4-0978B4596C13-433-00000115D1C14ECC.jpg

"stock" spacer over Chad's spacer
http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn391/guhfluh/40AF8BBC-D1E7-4BCB-B92B-851E1748BCB3-433-00000115BC512317.jpg

Any idea if Chad's RMVB spacer is fully custom or a modified early or MP plate?

[zin]

If he's just added/enlarged the existing holes and not "filling in" any existing OE holes, then the mods should transfer a stocker...

Which doesn't look to be the case here... I wonder if he used a spacer from another version of these transmissions, say the earlier 404 or even the 904, many of the parts look to be swappable, but I haven't had them side by side and my eyeballs haven't been calibrated in years!

Mike

[turbovanman²]

He made his own spacer plates IIRC.

[zin]

Funny, I figured if he did that he would have had the part number and "pat pending" stamped in at the time of manufacture, rather than doing it as an afterthought... But then again, that's kind of the definition of an after thought!

Mike

[A.J.]

I had a RMVB apart thinking I could reverse engineer it and modify a stocker. The RMVB I disassembled was completely different from a stocker, passages, valves, etc. I'm not saying it's not possible to build one but the one I took apart was built to be a RMVB.

A.J.

[guhfluh]

I had a RMVB apart thinking I could reverse engineer it and modify a stocker. The RMVB I disassembled was completely different from a stocker, passages, valves, etc. I'm not saying it's not possible to build one but the one I took apart was built to be a RMVB.

A.J.What RMVB manufacturer?

From what I see in Chad's, the VB halves and valves are all stock but modified. I haven't measured or inspected all of the valves yet, but the VB halves are just drilled and ground for the new fluid paths and can be easily duplicated.

The spacer plate reminds me of a Mopar Performance plate with the accumulator passage being blocked, which is why I asked, but I haven't seen a MP plate in forever.

[A.J.]

What RMVB manufacturer?

From what I see in Chad's, the VB halves and valves are all stock but modified. I haven't measured or inspected all of the valves yet, but the VB halves are just drilled and ground for the new fluid paths and can be easily duplicated.

The spacer plate reminds me of a Mopar Performance plate with the accumulator passage being blocked, which is why I asked, but I haven't seen a MP plate in forever.

I want to say it was a Chetah but don't remember for sure.

A.J.