Shelby Charger front wheel bearings, Now complete hub ---?

[Shadow]

Been a long time since I changed any L-body front wheel bearings. Now the bearings on the Charger are still Minty, nice and stiff, you can still feel the greese like they were new!

Bummer though, in order to mod my front brakes for the Wilwoods I had to seperate the hub and as carefull as I tried to be, the bearing blew apart when I pressed it out :(

So, need new bearings. I pick up the phone and call Local Chrysler dealer, still available........140.00 a side! lol

I tell the guy that my cost use to be something like 30.00 (A/M were 20 something) and he confirms that before the price hike the last list was 52.00!

Damn, OK gonna call my A/M guy and see what's up. He tells me 106.00! WT :confused: So I tell him this is crazy for a flipping Bearing. He says, no, this is for the whole hub assembly......

Hub assembly, nah, they're press in bearings. Chrysler never put the 4 bolt hubs on the S/C's cause they never had the big K/H brakes.

He tells me he's looking at a pic and it's a 3 bolt hub.

So, is this true? Did the A/M make a 3 bolt (bolt-in) hub for these cars? Anyone use one? Do you still press it in, or does it just slide in like the 4 bolt set-ups?

I like the idea of a bolt-in hub, but I'm not sure that the 3 bolts that are there to hold the dust shield are up to the task of holding the whole bearing assembly.

Went on ebay and sure enough, there they are, but they list them for all Omni's and I know for a fact that the turbo models have the wider bearing.

Damn, I liked it better when things were simple, pick up the phone and order the part.............

[135sohc]

You just looking for the straight up bearing and nothing else ? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=219244

[Shadow]

Sorry, what I was wondering is IF anyone had used one of the Bolt-in set-ups and how they were, fitment wise and such?

[RoadWarrior222]

They had to double the price for the value added service of making sure you get the wrong parts... hold on, drumming up a part number listing you might find helpful..

---------- Post added at 04:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:27 PM ----------

Bottom of list is our cars, left column is hub/bearing part numbers.

http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Mopar%20Catalogs/2003_Mopar_Brakes.pdf

[turbovanman²]

All your getting with the "KIT" is a bearing and wheel flange/hub, you still have to press it apart and back together again.

Just get the bearing from a parts store, NOK, National etc are all fine.

[Shadow]

Really? So what's this;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PRECISION-AUTO-518502-Front-Wheel-Bearing-Hub-Assembly-/220839953491?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item336b164453&vxp=mtr


Just to clarify, because I think you guys think I still need a bearing # or something. lol I got the Bearing part all figured out. What I was curious about was the Bolt-in Hub assemblies that are listed and available for these cars and IF anyone has any experience with them?

Surprizes the H3LL out of me that a company would spend that kind of time in R&D for something so old............(I guess they figured enough of them are still on the road?)

[135sohc]

Its a different way of doing things but I wouldnt go as far as calling it a 'bolt in' hub.

[Shadow]

What would you call it? The bearing is integral to the housing and the whole thing is held in by the retainer bolts.

I can't see it being press in anymore. If you had to press it in and you didn't line up the bolt holes Exactly, well, let's just say that would Suck! lol

[135sohc]

What would you call it? The bearing is integral to the housing and the whole thing is held in by the retainer bolts.

I can't see it being press in anymore. If you had to press it in and you didn't line up the bolt holes Exactly, well, let's just say that would Suck! lol

A different way of doing things. Look at timken or SKF on rockauto, both of their offerings are different still in appearence and construction.

Its not rocket science to press two things together and get bolt holes to line up.

[supercrackerbox]

The hub assembly is still a press fit, unlike the '91-up cars which use a true bolt-in assembly. The "bolt-in" setup on the older cars is more just a retaining collar that can be used to draw the hub into the spindle in lieu of using a press, and also an added measure of making sure it stays in there. This has the advantage of being able to swap the hubs without completely removing the spindle and therefore totally butchering your alignment, but in my experience your alignment will still be slightly changed, and if you have access to a press you'll save yourself a lot of grief.

BTW I also highly suggest staying away from BCA hub assemblies. I prefer Timken.

[turbovanman²]

What would you call it? The bearing is integral to the housing and the whole thing is held in by the retainer bolts.

I can't see it being press in anymore. If you had to press it in and you didn't line up the bolt holes Exactly, well, let's just say that would Suck! lol

Its still a press fit, just saving you a few minutes time.

[Shadow]

Are you guys just talking out your Ar$$es or have any of you Actually installed one?

IF what your saying/ implying is true, and That unit is still press in, then the guy/ company who went to all that trouble is/ are a bunch of Morons and have Zero clue about engineering anything. Total Waiste of time and energy..............

[RoadWarrior222]

It was probably the Simca engineers, just think in French when you're doing it and it might make sense.

[turbovanman²]

Are you guys just talking out your Ar$$es or have any of you Actually installed one?

IF what your saying/ implying is true, and That unit is still press in, then the guy/ company who went to all that trouble is/ are a bunch of Morons and have Zero clue about engineering anything. Total Waiste of time and energy..............

Yes, I've done one, its has a few advantages, albeit minor one's-one, you don't need to press out the old hub, bonus if your old one is fubared or you want to change the lug pattern, oh, that's it, :p

[thedon809]

I just installed the moog "hubs" in my omni. I bought 2 NOS mopar bearings but when I pressed the old hubs out the one was all messed up. I bought the moog hub and bearings and just used the whole thing instead. I got the mopar bearings for $70 per side. I got them maybe 2 months ago. Sorry but your chrysler parts guy is trying to rape you lol.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20120721_123115.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20120813_173054.jpg

[135sohc]

Its called living in Canada, there used to it.

[RoadWarrior222]

Seems particularly crazy in Ontario here, when we keep getting told "It's the higher cost of doing business here" and you look "over the river" to New York State and the taxes and deductions there seem freaking insane.... and you think "holy fork, how can they stay in business over there AND be cheaper still then????" ... and then they talk about "increased distribution cost" and again, we think "Two thirds of the population is within 2 hours of Toronto, a 20 million market in a 100 mile radius HOW THE HELL do they serve Montana, North Dakota etc in the US cheaper than that????" ... I'm starting to think that Ontario subsidises every other part of North America, if we declared a compulsory 3 day weekend public holiday, no stores open whatever, probably every company on this half the planet would go bust.... and the retailers here are all "Why come the government lets Ontarians go over the border to shop, they should like put up a berlin wall or something" apparently they don't get that the full and correct answer is "BECAUSE F__K YOU!!!"

And then there's when you know that the parts (quite common with minivans) were actually made in Canada, maybe 50 miles away....

[Shadow]

Its called living in Canada, there used to it.

Exactly what I was going to say! lol

---------- Post added at 10:50 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:48 AM ----------


I just installed the moog "hubs" in my omni. I bought 2 NOS mopar bearings but when I pressed the old hubs out the one was all messed up. I bought the moog hub and bearings and just used the whole thing instead. I got the mopar bearings for $70 per side. I got them maybe 2 months ago. Sorry but your chrysler parts guy is trying to rape you lol.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20120721_123115.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/thedon809/IMG_20120813_173054.jpg

So were these the intigrated units like in my like? (Thick 1/4" 3 bolt one piece with bearing all one piece) or the regular hub with loose 3 bolt bearing retainer that you can spin around and line up after the bearing is installed?

[Mopar318]

Exactly what I was going to say! lol

---------- Post added at 10:50 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:48 AM ----------



So were these the intigrated units like in my like? (Thick 1/4" 3 bolt one piece with bearing all one piece) or the regular hub with loose 3 bolt bearing retainer that you can spin around and line up after the bearing is installed?

You press bearing in, then bolt on the retaining plate.

Then you can press the hub in making sure to support the back of the bearing so you are not pressing on the out races.

[black86glhs]

Shadow....here is the deal(and you should know this), unless that design has changed, it is still considered a press fit. I don't care if you can run it in with the bolts or use a press. If it has changed and the bearing will slide into the knuckle (and not need the bolts or press to seat it), then it is a bolt in.
Last one of those I saw( yes, the same one you are talking about), it still had to be seated by press or the bolts.

[Shadow]

Shadow....here is the deal(and you should know this), unless that design has changed, it is still considered a press fit. I don't care if you can run it in with the bolts or use a press. If it has changed and the bearing will slide into the knuckle (and not need the bolts or press to seat it), then it is a bolt in.
Last one of those I saw( yes, the same one you are talking about), it still had to be seated by press or the bolts.

OK, now we're getting somewhere! I never thought of using longer bolts on that flange to press the bearing in. That would deff be a benefit to the design and (if you had long enough bolt) I could actually see that making things easier for most.

Although, if you didn't have long enough bolts and you pressed it in slightly off the bolt holes, well that would be fugly for most and the reason I was Q'ing why they would go to the trouble if they're Not making it a True bolt-in. (already 99% there?!)

What's the slip fit for the 4 bolt "bolt-in" bearing hubs? 0.010"? After looking at the retainer bolt holes and seeing that they pass right through the meat of the knuckle, then looking at how beefy they made that flange, I would say that all you would need is the slip fit spec and it Would be a true bolt-in without issue..........

[RoadWarrior222]

Although, if you didn't have long enough bolts and you pressed it in slightly off the bolt holes, well that would be fugly for most

You fail BFH university. Here's your Midas preferred customer card.

[cordes]

OK, now we're getting somewhere! I never thought of using longer bolts on that flange to press the bearing in. That would deff be a benefit to the design and (if you had long enough bolt) I could actually see that making things easier for most.

Although, if you didn't have long enough bolts and you pressed it in slightly off the bolt holes, well that would be fugly for most and the reason I was Q'ing why they would go to the trouble if they're Not making it a True bolt-in. (already 99% there?!)

What's the slip fit for the 4 bolt "bolt-in" bearing hubs? 0.010"? After looking at the retainer bolt holes and seeing that they pass right through the meat of the knuckle, then looking at how beefy they made that flange, I would say that all you would need is the slip fit spec and it Would be a true bolt-in without issue..........

I don't have an exact tolerance for you on the bolt in hubs, but it is fairly generous. I was surprised how easily the new one slid into the knuckle when I did one a week or so ago.

[black86glhs]

I did need to add that I have never used bolts to install one of these. I pressed it in and had to use longer bolts than stock to line it up. Once it gets part way in, the longer bolts can be removed and pressed in with no issue.

[planetb]

So i'm about to do this on my Shelby lancer, I've always bought just the bearings and removed the hubs from the old bearing/race on my SRT4. Pressed in the new bearing and then pressed in the hub while supporting the back of the bearing. How do you press these in as one unit without damaging the bearing? Looks like there would be a lot of pressure on the bearing itself?

[Shadow]

I would think no more pressure than pressing the hub into the bearing if everything is clean and goes smoothly.

[wallace]

So i'm about to do this on my Shelby lancer, I've always bought just the bearings and removed the hubs from the old bearing/race on my SRT4. Pressed in the new bearing and then pressed in the hub while supporting the back of the bearing. How do you press these in as one unit without damaging the bearing? Looks like there would be a lot of pressure on the bearing itself?

I just did this on my shop press. I supported the knuckle from the botton and pressed with the ram centered in the hub flange. I used never seize in the bore of the knuckle and on the bearing. Make sure it is squared up. Pressed in with very little pressure. HTH.