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View Full Version : How can you tell if a LeBaron is turboed or not?



QC DSM ESiT
08-09-2006, 07:46 PM
Like the subject says. One of my friends and I wouldn't mind getting a LeBaron turbo but we have no idea on how to tell them apart. So what can I look for that would make it easier to tell if a LeBaron is a turbo? Thanks in advance guys.

shadow88
08-09-2006, 07:57 PM
8th digit in the VIN is either E = 2.2l turbo 1---- A = 2.2l turbo 2 or vnt----J 2.5l turbo 1. Correct me if I'm wrong on the "J"

Or you could open the hood and look.

QC DSM ESiT
08-10-2006, 07:28 PM
8th digit in the VIN is either E = 2.2l turbo 1---- A = 2.2l turbo 2 or vnt----J 2.5l turbo 1. Correct me if I'm wrong on the "J"

Or you could open the hood and look.

The VIN stuff is extremely helpful thank you. See the problem I'm having is that there are no LeBaron's for sale local so I have searchin a little on Auto Trader and sites like that but most people won't tell ya if it's turboed or not but they usually will give you the VIN.

Tony Fields
08-11-2006, 09:22 PM
8th digit in the VIN is either E = 2.2l turbo 1---- A = 2.2l turbo 2 or vnt----J 2.5l turbo 1. Correct me if I'm wrong on the "J"

Or you could open the hood and look.



The VNT would have a "C" in the 8th digit and it would only be in a 1990 model GTC

jre97
08-12-2006, 10:06 AM
Turbo badges on the outside, turbo valve cover, etc.

TopDollar69
08-12-2006, 11:10 AM
I enter the vin on carfax. They wont give you the car fax info, but it does list the engine body style trim level etc for free.

QC DSM ESiT
08-12-2006, 01:07 PM
Okay so if the VIN has an E,A,J, or C then it's turboed?

lebaron88
08-24-2006, 03:48 PM
I ma selling one in Portland, ME:
I am selling my beloved 1988 Chrysler Lebaron Turbo Convertible (automatic transmission). I got the car my mother in love which had it for 15 years in Atlanta and gave it to me when I move to Portland, Maine in 2000. That year I had the head replaced by the Chrysler dealership and I started to add performance modifications: computer, turbo gauge, intercooler and radiator from a Daytona TII, +20 injectors, Accufab adjustable fuel regulator, manual boost controller, Dawes air-fuel gauge, automatic transmission cooler. I have also larger wheels which I have not yet installed.
The odometer stopped working 3 years ago at 86000 miles ca. It has probably 100,000 miles now. I never abused it, and neither did my mother in love!
Everything works perfectly, except for the odometer and the car looks very beautiful: always garaged, original paint still glossing. I sell it because one of my four cars has to go. I am asking $ 1500 obo.
You can see some pictures at:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/51855446@N00/?deleted=215420303