Spindle difference

[black86glhs]

I was doing some research and never really got a 100% clear answer. The 4 lug base omni/horizon spindles use a narrower bearing and spindle. The plate has a smaller bolt circle.
The 5 lug Omni uses a thicker bearing and spindle. The plate use the larger bolt circle.
DO I have it right?

[cordes]

I was doing some research and never really got a 100% clear answer. The 4 lug base omni/horizon spindles use a narrower bearing and spindle. The plate has a smaller bolt circle.
The 5 lug Omni uses a thicker bearing and spindle. The plate use the larger bolt circle.
DO I have it right?

I've never compared them side by side, but that's what I've been lead to believe.

[black86glhs]

I tried to install a 5 lug hub/bearing in what apparently is a base model spindle and can attest to the fact that it does not work. I know others knew this, but i did not. What annoys me is the guys parting them out and saying they will work.

[135sohc]

They are indeed different, because out in the great black hole of parts aka the garage somewhere I have a box of seals that only fit the early stuff and tried to use them once and found out the difference. whether its a K based vs L body thing to any degree I do not know.

[black86glhs]

Thanks. This is all in reference to L-body spindles. No K-derivatives.

[RoadWarrior222]

I know you're waiting for an authoritative opinion here, so I'll just take a guess that you have it right too. :thumb:





But, page 29 of this, hub and bearing part numbers, that tell you anything? http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Mopar%20Catalogs/2003_Mopar_Brakes.pdf

[minigts]

Bryan I don't know what your plans are, but I would recommend going to the Daytona (probably other model) style brakes from 90 or 91? That is what I ended up going with on my GLHS and I haven't looked back. Primarily, you have 11" brakes and a hub that is removable without pulling the knuckle. There is some machining on the park of the knuckle where it bolts to the strut, but I did this by hand in an afternoon, so I'm sure it wouldn't be that much trouble. I haven't noticed any difference in the position of my wheels either. The L bodies just have an older style setup that isn't very serviceable, granted changing hub bearings on that car probably don't happen but every 70K+ miles. But the idea of having the larger brakes and serviceability is why I upgraded.

[cordes]

It's not the knuckle that moves the wheels forward on the later stuff. It's the control arms.

[minigts]

It's not the knuckle that moves the wheels forward on the later stuff. It's the control arms.

So there you go, no reason not to do it. :) I have the dual pivot arms and I don't think it moved mine at all, but I could be wrong. Seems the same unless the amount it was moved was minimal.

[cordes]

So there you go, no reason not to do it. :) I have the dual pivot arms and I don't think it moved mine at all, but I could be wrong. Seems the same unless the amount it was moved was minimal.

If I'm not mistaken, you're using the stamped dual pivot arms. It's the cast arms which move the ball joint forward.

[minigts]

If I'm not mistaken, you're using the stamped dual pivot arms. It's the cast arms which move the ball joint forward.

Stamped is correct. Everything is quite nice. :)

[black86glhs]

Well, I was just putting new bearings/hubs together with another set of spindles. Wanted to be able to just bolt them on when I pulled the originals off. The ones on there aren't bad, I was just gonna freshen up the front end. I already have new Brembo rotors for it and never have been unhappy with the brakes. If I didn't already have a bunch of stuff for the shelby setup, I would easily consider the daytona spindles. I already have neon coil overs so the daytona stuff might fit even easier.
However, don't have the spindles or bearings. Thanks for the info on the stuff Jon. RW222....I went back and looked at the bolt circles for both and saw the difference. GRRRRR.:mad:

[minigts]

Well that makes sense if you have all the other stuff. I'm sure it will work out eventually. Now get back to getting that thing on the road! :D

[AngelesRunner]

L-Body knuckles are different from anything else. The bearing is narrower. It fails sooner. Narrower is not as stable. When the Chrysler engineers made the GLH they made a special knuckle to handle the stress. The bearing location is wider and it uses the same wider bearing as the Acclaim/Spirit and Shadow/whatever. This bearing is safe for 2,700 pound cars.
The stock L-body knuckle is also thinner where it bolts into the strut. The aligning hole and the elongated hole that allows adjustment of the camber angle are reversed from the knuckles of the other cars. The GLH knuckle is also thin (same as stock L-body) at the top where it bolts into the strut.
Now I know this because I have changed out an 89 Horizon to GLH knuckles in order to put 89 Caravan brakes at the front. I bought one knuckle that was supposed to be GLH but it was not. It is Shadow/whatever, Acclaim/Spirit variety.

The solution to your problem is a reputable auto salvage yard purchase of genuine GLH knuckles which gives you the better wheel bearing, 5-lug hubs, but still limits you to stock L-body size struts (I used KYB GR2).

[black86glhs]

After paying more attention to the hub/bearing specs, I saw it. I wish I knew at the time I got them. Also, wish those who posted them up would say they aren't the same, but then nobody would buy them.
I already have a GLHS with the correct knuckles, but wanted to put together a fresh set and bolt them on with the new brakes. Oh well.