Need to build that 2.4L swap FAQ...

[Frank]

So lets start here. To contribute, just give new steps for us. Take what someone has written, modify it and repost it. The next people can do the same, so on and so on. Once done, we will repost the final information into the FAQ.

1. Aquire the motor you want - list acceptable motor's here.

[TurbododgePirate]

You mean like this frank?:

The 16V block 1997 to 2001 doesn't have a lot of changes. Nice and strong. But, there are some changes you will need to make to it.

The main bearings will have to be changed. The stock 2.4 NA bearings can't stand up to the punishment. You'll need SRT bearings. MAIN BEARING 5012582AA $6.90 (4 REQUIRED)

Rods and pistons: SRT4 rods and pistons and bearings are cheap and you can get the Rings as well. ROD BREARING 5093448AB $5.40 (4 REQUIRED),PISTON/ROD ASSEMBLY 4884247AD $49.78 (4 REQUIRED),RING SET 5093441AA $19.44 (1 REQUIRED)
Or, you can use a T2 rod from a 2.5L 1989+ Turbo dodge and a custom forged piston. With stock Clevite 77 bearings.

Water and oil pump? Well, there are people out there running the NA oil and water pump with no issues at all. But, you can choose to upgrade. If you do you'll need a SRT oil pump, water pump, hydraulic tensioner and other odds and ends. Want them? Here they are:

Tensionser: 4781570AB
- bolt: 6101763
- bolt: 6506019AA
Water Pump:4884159AA
- bolt: 6503255 (x 4)
Idler Pulley: 04781569AB
Oil Pump Pickup/Screen: 4792304AC
Oil Pan: 4777991AA
Oil Pump: 4777955AA
Oil Pan Gasket: 4777994AA
Oil Filter Connector: 4777998AA
Oil Filter Connector Gasket: 4884000AA
Oil Filter Connector Screw: 6102041AA (x 3)
Front Seal (for oil pump): 4667198

The tensioner upgrade package part number for the PT is 5114069AA. It includes the tensioner, both covers, and some screws. It will make it so you have the plastic covers that cover and protect the timing belt. Cost from Fenton dodge is $127

4884159AA $46.15 SRT4 Water pump
5114072AA $113.30 Complete Tensioner upgrade


The head? Well, the head should be specific to your block, although all DOHC heads from 1997 to 1999 should be basically the same.

The mounts For the passengers side you'll need a special adapter bracket made to place the 2.4 in the 2.0 neon engien compartment. It is made by toomanyneons on www.neons.org. They are $78 Paypal shipped bwsemail@gmail.com See them here http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=169980/
The drivers side depends on the tranny. Currently you can use a TD 413 mount on the neon 413 based tranny as I understand it. The 5 speed neon NVT tranny mount is a work in progress, I'll update when I know more. As is the front motor mount.

Intake Manifolds You can use just about any stock 2.0 or 2.4 intake manifold. My suggestion, Lonewolf Performance.

Transmissions Yes, you can install the cable operated NVT350 1995-1999 neon 5 speed in either 3.55 FD or 3.94 FD. Yes, you can install a TD 520,523,555,568 tranny with some modification. Yes, you can install a srt4 tranny, but you also have to install a hydraulic clutch system.

Axles Stock large splined axles should do to begin with.

Engine management Your choice.

[David Bohrer]

The 2.4 liter engine is found primarily in what are referred to as the "cloud" cars which are the Cirrus, Stratus and Breeze. The 2.4l can be found in some minivans but, those are a rare duck. The best 2.4's can be found in late model PT Cruisers and the creme de ulche being the the GT Crusier and the SRT4, both of which had the 2.4 liter turbocharged from the factory.

Cloud cars are the most plentiful. They have a decent stock flowing head.

Minivans AFAIK have the share the same block and head. Just rare.

The PT Cruiser (post 2002) have the better flowing rectangular ports WITHOUT the EGR bypass.

The bestest is the GT Cruiser and the SRT4. Factory turbocharged. Built bottom ends. But they are pricey.

Like this Frank?

[Frank]

That works guys!

People can keep adding ifnormation for the next week. I will combine it and move it to the FAQ section.

[Speedeuphoria]

Here's some bolt sizes(I left the 2.0 stuff here you can remove it if you want Frank)

Valve Cover to Head - M6 x 1.00 x 17 - Qty 10 (96-99)
Coil Pack to Valve Cover - M6 x 1.00 x 50 - Qty 4 (96-99)
Fuel Rail to Intake Manifold - M8 x 1.25 x 16 - Qty 2 (all years)
Exhaust Manifold to Head Bolts - M8 x 1.25 x 25 - Qty 6 (or use 8 studs)
Exhaust Manifold to Head Studs - M8 x 1.25 x 51 - Qty 2 (or use 8 studs)
Exhaust Manifold to Head Nuts - M8 x 1.25 - Qty 2 (or 8 if all studs)
DOHC: Intake Manifold to Head - M8 x 1.25 x 28 - Qty
Throttle Body to Plenum - M8 x 1.25 x 60 - Qty 2
IAC Sensor to Throttle Body - M5 x .8 x 12 - Qty 2
TPS Sensor to Throttle Body - M5 x .8 x 20 - Qty 2
Water Neck to Intake Manifold - M6 x 1.00 x30 - Qty 2

2.0 DOHC Head Bolts
M11 x 1.5 x 110 - Qty 4
M11 x 1.5 x 156 - Qty 6
2.4 DOHC Head Bolts
M11 x 1.5 x 146 - Qty 10
There is no arp headstud kit for the 2.4(well actually there is now, but on summit it doesn't say what its for, this is the # ARP 141-4204) or use the VW 1.8 20v set ARP 204-4204(same length and pitch bolts)

2.0 bedplate bolts:
M8 x 1.25 x 60
M11 x 1.5 x 65

2.4 bedplate bolts:
M8 x 1.25 x 70
M11 x 1.50 x 75

Cam Gear to Camshaft - M12 x 1.50 x 52 - Qty 2
Crank Pulley to Crankshaft - M12 x 1.75 x 87.5 - Qty 1
Oil Pan Drain Plug - M14 x 1.50 x 16 - Qty 1

DOHC Cam Caps - M6 x 1.00 x 35 - Qty 18
DOHC Cam Caps - M8 x 1.25 x 40 - Qty 6
Cam Sensor to Head - M6 x 1.00 x 20 - Qty 2
Alternator Bracket to Block - M10 x 1.50 x 40 - Qty 3
Alternator Pivot Bolt - M10 x 1.50 x 100 - Qty 1

Oil drain plug M14 x 1.5 (srt pan)

Also I wanted to add to that the newer heads are not a direct bolt on to the pre 01 blocks because of the oil passage in the block/head (and the head gasket is different)

You can pull oil for the turbo off the head or from the 3/8npt in the back of the block

2.0 cams are a great place to start and theese should be good settings. (Russ wrote)I have found on my old setup 4-6* advance on intake side
pulled smooth from idle to 7k RPM with 0-4* neg on exhaust
cam.


If you need stock or larger bearings, Clevite CB1813p(for srt2.4 rods) and MS2201p mains(for na 2.4's)
You can also use TM rods w/ the appropriate bearings(specific to rods) just have to have the small end sized for the srt.866 pin

Misc info:
Spark plugs
Stock swap NGK Bkre6e/es use the 7 for turbo low boost

NGK iridum plugs 1step 2step colder
Iridium IX BKR6EIX
Iridium IX BKR7EIX
Iridium IX BKR9EIX High boost

you can use the PT water inlet tube if you need a new one

If your making a custom Intake then you can use the PT waterneck that bolts to the head(also keeps the intake from getting heatsoaked from the coolant)

For 96-99 dohc's Autozone has the 180^ thermostat(stock is 195^) that is special order(VALUCRAFT
MED TEMP-180 DEGREE 4208 $9.99
SEAL INCLUDED), tell them to look up a 98 neon, then it is an option) but cheaper than Howell automotive.

Timing Belt Tensioner How to:
Loosen the center lock bolt about one turn, no need to go more than that. This should allow the black stamped steel piece under the bolt head to rotate. There will either be a 1/4" socket extension hole in it or a 6mm allen head hole in it. Gently rotate the center piece CLOCKWISE. You will see the pulley move "down" and to the left slightly. This will allow you to just barely sneak the belt over the pulley. Get all the slack out of the belt between the crank, water pump and both cam gears. Then use the allen wrench or extension and start to turn the center piece COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. Eventually you will see the small aluminum bracket on the back side of the pulley start to "float" and rotate clockwise when the assembly starts to put pressure on the belt. When the small opening in the center of that aluminum bracket lines up with the exposed spring wire tang, the tension is set. Hole the allen wrench/extension and tighten the lock bolt. Rotate the engine assembly over a couple of times and look at the location of the aluminum bracket and spring tang to be sure they are close to where you set them. It's very easy to set the tension with this design. Eventually I'll get a how-to put together for the Archives since the same procedure applies to late model SOHC and 2.4


PWR Steering FAQ
Neon underdrive pulleys work on the 2.4, but you need to use the '96-'99 one if you are going to use the pwr steering that your car had(V-belt) or if you want to use the 2.4's stock pwr steering pump(4 grove) then you need a '00+ neon UDP(and will have to mount a remove reservoir, which there is only one real place for it to go, between pass strut tower and firewall) .

The stock TM Saginaw pwr steering pressure line fits the newer 2.4 pump.(I believe that it is even possible to use the factory Saginaw pump after comparing pictures of them(they look very similar). If you have a log manifold you may need to modify the bracket for the pressure line to not be so close to the header.


Bonus:
The newer auto trans have a provision for a rear mount.
the caravan 2.4 is the only one that actually uses it. You can easily make a new one w/ the caravan mount and stock bobble strut location on the K frame.

IF you are lucky like me and can find a Caravan 2.4 and trans still in vehicle. Tell them you want all of the accessories, the motor mounts, and the pwr steering reservoir, and the wiring on the alt/starter.

If you want to use an SRT4 valve cover on a 96-99 2.4
You will have to mill the spark plug hole lips(where the boot attach's) down ~1/2"-5/8". This is because the SRT and newer heads use a different spark plug that is that much longer and they are different styles so you cannot just swap plugs. Or you can also just cut part of the sealing boot off the wires then it should fit. Then you will have 2 bolt holes that you do not need that will have to be filled(look at pic)

[David Bohrer]

The block is able to take massive power whether it be an old style or a new style. The best one is the SRT or PT turbo block since they have the factory turbo drain back and oil sprayers for the pistons. Two easy to overcome obsticals but, to each their own.

The heads get a little more involved.

2.0 DOHC are the most common in the JY.

2.4 N/A are next in the food chain until...

PT N/A Head that has NO EGR is the next best circa @ 2002 mid year. Lower exhaust port floor = better flow

PT turbo head is better yet since it has better exhaust valves and no EGR(technically). These can be found CHEAP and are nearly as good as...

SRT turbo head . The best flowing stock head you can get! BUT, to use an old style intake mani (non-SRT) you must add metal and create bolt holes in the intake side of the head so that you have enough clampage. Even then you must drill out two extra holes in the intake manifold flange so that it can seal properly. OR get an SRT intake but, that may not clear the dizzy. Someone will have to chime in on this one.

This is my personal opinion and is based off experience, dyno time and flow #'s of all the motor combo's that I have had or have built for people and then tuned.

In my stuff somewhere is flow # comparisions between them all but, you could head over to the neons.org and drown in that sea of miss-information to find it.

Dave B.

[David Bohrer]

All the 2.0 and 2.4 DOHC heads have the same bolt pattern and will interchange some with mods though.

Here is the general rule of thumb for 2.4 litres:

Pre-2001 heads will bolt up to a pre-2001 block with no issue.

Use of a 2002+ head on a pre-2001 block will require either welding and red-drilling of front oil drain on the cylinder head. OR installing of freeze plugs to the head and the block on the front oil drain to eliminate the passage. A diesel shop will have them. Early Cummins turbo freeze plugs for the head I THINK.

[David Bohrer]

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181

dizzy conversion construction link

[Darkapollo]

Ive been waiting for an FAQ like this...
So the rods and piston sets are $50ea from the dealer?

[Speedeuphoria]

Ive been waiting for an FAQ like this...
So the rods and piston sets are $50ea from the dealer?
those are old and they are from a discount seller like mopar supercenter
current discount prices are~$62

[MiniMopar]

What is the going rate for an SRT-4 crate motor?

[Darkapollo]

{fast and furious}
More then you can afford pal... Ferrari
{/fast and furious}
It would be cheaper and easier to just build a 2.4 to SRT4 specs then to buy an engine.

[Speedeuphoria]

What is the going rate for an SRT-4 crate motor?
last I knew it was like $1100 for a shortblock

[Speedeuphoria]

Idler Pulley: 04781569AB (comes w/ bolt)
you can get the srt lower gasket kit(if using the srt pan/pump/pickup/water pump) which contains: oil pan gasket,oil pump O-ring, oil pickup O-ring, water inlet pipe O-ring, water pump O-ring, front and rear main seals.

[capev86]

find a wrecked car and then you have all the wiring and stuff too!!

[87csx2.4]

Timing Belt Tensioner How to:
Loosen the center lock bolt about one turn, no need to go more than that. This should allow the black stamped steel piece under the bolt head to rotate. There will either be a 1/4" socket extension hole in it or a 6mm allen head hole in it. Gently rotate the center piece CLOCKWISE. You will see the pulley move "down" and to the left slightly. This will allow you to just barely sneak the belt over the pulley. Get all the slack out of the belt between the crank, water pump and both cam gears. Then use the allen wrench or extension and start to turn the center piece COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. Eventually you will see the small aluminum bracket on the back side of the pulley start to "float" and rotate clockwise when the assembly starts to put pressure on the belt. When the small opening in the center of that aluminum bracket lines up with the exposed spring wire tang, the tension is set. Hole the allen wrench/extension and tighten the lock bolt. Rotate the engine assembly over a couple of times and look at the location of the aluminum bracket and spring tang to be sure they are close to where you set them. It's very easy to set the tension with this design. Eventually I'll get a how-to put together for the Archives since the same procedure applies to late model SOHC and 2.4
Unless you use the hydrolic tensioner which has worked flawless for me.http://www.bstockum.com/tensionerpage1.htmlYou guys have got some good info here keep it up.:thumb:

[Darkapollo]

How are you guys who are already running the 2.4 making the Speedo and Tach and stuff work?

[Speedeuphoria]

Hey Frank what other stuff do you wat info for??

[Darkapollo]

BUMP for my previous question.

[Frank]

I think we have it all. Now for the next task. I recommend someone read thru and combined all the information into one post. Just do cut and pastes to place everything together in nice orderly steps, etc. Then we will let everyone proof read it and then I will move that post as the official FAQ!

[Speedeuphoria]

I think we need to include the transmission options the 2.4 motors.

[Darkapollo]

and ENGINE MANAGEMENT and such.. such as OPTIONS on STOCK 2.4l computers or STAND ALONES...

[Frank]

Tranny and EFI can be another FAQ.

[Darkapollo]

I think it should all be related since it is all required to run the 2.4... and with my install coming up really soon Id like to know these things.

[Frank]

It would be too much text for one post. Trust me... it will be called part 1, 2, 3.

[TurbododgePirate]

The measurements I made on my 2.4 and NVT350 have me a little concerned. I will know more once I have the engine back from the machine shop, and mated up to the tranny, but the measurement from tranny mount to pass side mount is not quite the same as a L body. Looks like some serious custom fabrication might be in order if it will work at all.

In addition, I know that the 2.4 with the neon 3 speed (413) uses a stock 413 mount, and Omni large splines, but the NVT350 will use a large spline on the drivers side, but will require something else on the pass side. One the neon the pass side axle is different from the auto to the manual, I just don't know how much yet.

Anyone have any insight??

Also who has the info on building a hydraulic clutch setup????????????

~~Heath

[Frank]

I have some basic info on hyd stuff, but only design. WIll post later.

[Darkapollo]

The only reason Id like them all in one is for a total swap guide.
If i was new and wanted to throw the 2.4 in to my car, I dont want to sift through 3 or more threads to get all of my info. I do believe that it will be alot of text, but people who face this task are not exactly expecting a drop in and go route.

[Speedeuphoria]

If i was new and wanted to throw the 2.4 in to my car, I dont want to sift through 3 or more threads to get all of my info.

If you cant look through 3 threads, youll never do the work involved in the swap also search is your friend

[Darkapollo]

thanks for that. but I HAVE searched. Search brings up 400 unrelated topics. I do more work to enough peoples cars that i am more then able to do the work to make the swap.

[Dave]

As far as engine management. Rob and I are running the late style turbo electronics. We just run the distributor backwards off the intake cam. This way the T1 computer can still be used.

I'm having Cindy recalibrate my Stage 3 computer to handle the 2.4 for only $50. :eyebrows:

Also, the 97-01 heads have an EGR passage? I haven't started digging in too much yet.

[Darkapollo]

how does that work? have any pictures of that setup?

[Dave]

how does that work? have any pictures of that setup?

Yah, here's one of Rob's.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/576/b867.jpg

[Darkapollo]

awesome! good deal on that.

[Frank]

Thats what is called the Dizzy setup.... see above in Dave B's post.

[Darkapollo]

I wonder if he sells them... god knows i cant fabricate stuff like that. no tools or materials.
changing motor mounts, cutting and welding, yes, but not something like that.

[Dave]

Thats what is called the Dizzy setup.... see above in Dave B's post.

Education! :thumb: Thanks Frank.

[Dave]

I'm still not 100% sure, will all the SRT4 stuff bolt onto our 97+ heads??

[Speedeuphoria]

1st of all, didn't you ask all of these questions earlier this year?? I saw some old posts on TD.com with the exact same questions.
I think you need to reread alot of stuff at TD.com and over at neons.org and you will be enlightened
but here ya go(from neons.org)

bolt patterns are the same, srt head has rectangle exhaust ports, 2.0 has oval exhaust ports, srt has 28.5 mm exhaust valves, 2.0 has 30 mm exhaust valves, srt has no speed humps at the end of the port, 2.0 does have the speed humps at the end of the port, and both heads have the humps under the valve seats in the bowl.

the easy way for starters is to get a dohc neon intake and a mexican turbo stratus exhaust manifold.

Or you can make your own from what you got

[Speedeuphoria]

Heres some torque specs for the 2.4
Camshaft Position Sensor Pickup Bolts: 20 ft lbs

Connecting Rod Bolts: 20 ft lbs plus 1/4 turn

Bedplate:
M8 bolts - 250 inch lbs
M11 bolts - 30 ft lbs

Crank Pulley Bolt: 100 ft lbs

Valve Cover Bolts: 105 in lbs

Engine Mount Bracket Attaching Bolts: 30 ft lbs

Exhaust Manifold Bolts: 200 in lbs

Intake Manifold Bolts: 20 ft lbs

Oil Filter to Block Adapter: 40 ft lbs

Oil Filter: 15 ft lbs

Oil Pan Bolts: 105 in lbs

Oil Pan Drain Plug: 25 ft lbs

Oil Pump Attaching Bolts: 20 ft lbs

Oil Pump Cover Bolts: 105 in lbs

Oil Pickup Tube Bolt: 20 ft lbs

Oil Pump Relief Valve Cap: 40 ft lbs

Spark Plugs: 20 ft lbs

Timing Belt Tensioner: 20 ft lbs*

Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley Assembly: 30 ft lbs*

Water Pump: 105 in lbs


*These are for the 95-96 2.4L Motors with the hydraulic tensioner

[Speedeuphoria]

Just seeing if this could be added to the FAQ or a Sticky

[Mario]

Nice work. :thumb:

[Speedeuphoria]

Motors:
The 2.4 liter engine is found primarily in what are referred to as the "cloud" cars which(are the most plentiful) are the Cirrus, Stratus and Breeze. The 2.4l can be found in some minivans but, those are a rare duck and are the only factory 2.4 w/ 3spd auto(IF you are lucky like me and can find a Caravan 2.4 and trans still in vehicle. Tell them you want all of the accessories, the motor mounts, and the pwr steering reservoir, and the wiring on the alt/starter). These motors have PS in the rear and Alt/AC up front like the TD's the neons/PT/SRT have ps in front and alt in rear

The bestest is the GT Cruiser and the SRT4, Factory turbocharged, Built bottom ends, Best flowing stock heads, But they are pricey


Block:
The block is able to take massive power whether it be an old style or a new style. The best one is the SRT or PT turbo block since they have the factory turbo drain back and oil sprayers for the pistons

The 16V block 1997 to 2001 doesn't have a lot of changes. Nice and strong but, there are some changes you will need to make to it

The main bearings will have to be changed. The stock 2.4 NA bearings can't stand up to the punishment. You'll need SRT bearings. MAIN BEARING 5012582AA(4 REQUIRED). If you need stock or larger bearings, Clevite CB1813p(for srt2.4 rods) and MS2201p mains(for na 2.4's)

You will need to add plumbing for the turbo, you can pull oil for the turbo off the head or from the 3/8npt in the back of the block, drill the pan for the return

Water and oil pump? Well, there are people out there running the NA oil and water pump with no issues at all. But, you can choose to upgrade. If you do you'll need a SRT oil pump, water pump, hydraulic tensioner, srt lower gasket kit and other odds and ends. Want them? Here they are:
Tensionser: 4781570AB
- bolt: 6101763
- bolt: 6506019AA
Water Pump: 4884159AA
- bolt: 6503255 (x 4)
Idler Pulley: 04781569AB
Oil Pump Pickup/Screen: 4792304AC
Oil Pan: 4777991AA
Oil Pump: 4777955AA
Oil Pan Gasket: 4777994AA
Oil Filter Connector: 4777998AA
Oil Filter Connector Gasket: 4884000AA
Oil Filter Connector Screw: 6102041AA (x 3)
Front Seal(for oil pump): 4667198
srt lower gasket kit contains:oil pan gasket,oil pump O-ring, oil pickup O-ring, water inlet pipe O-ring, water pump O-ring, front and rear main seals

The tensioner upgrade package part number for the PT is 5114069AA. It includes the tensioner, both covers, and some screws. It will make it so you have the plastic covers that cover and protect the timing belt
4884159AA SRT4 Water pump
5114072AA Complete Tensioner upgrade


Rods/Pistons:
The stock na 2.4 rods are weak and not recomended for boosted applications.
The SRT/PT rods are good, comparible to the TM/TD rods
You can also use TM rods w/ the appropriate bearings(specific to rods) just have to have the small end sized for the srt.866 pin
You can use any aftermarket SRT rod/piston in all 2.4's.
JE Pistons don't have big valve reliefs!


Heads:
The heads get a little more involved
All the 2.0 and 2.4 DOHC heads have the same bolt pattern and will interchange some with mods though. bolt patterns are the same, srt head has rectangle exhaust ports, 2.0 has oval exhaust ports, srt has 28.5 mm exhaust valves, 2.0 has 30 mm exhaust valves, srt has no speed humps at the end of the port, 2.0 does have the speed humps at the end of the port, and both heads have the humps under the valve seats in the bowl

Here is the general rule of thumb for 2.4 litres:
Pre-2001 heads will bolt up to a pre-2001 block with no issue. You can use just about any stock 2.0 or 2.4 intake manifold. The Indy intake for DOHC 95-99 neons is a pita, you will have to modify the alt bracket and do some grinding on things, beat up your alt, ect. lots of wok!

95-99 Spark plugs are different from SRT heads!
Stock swap NGK Bkre6e/es use the 7 for turbo low boost
NGK iridum plugs 1step 2step colder
Iridium IX BKR6EIX
Iridium IX BKR7EIX
Iridium IX BKR9EIX High boost

If you want to use an SRT4 valve cover on a 96-99 2.4
You will have to mill the spark plug hole lips(where the boot attach's) down 1/2"-5/8". This is because the SRT and newer heads use a different spark plug that is that much longer and they are different styles so you cannot just swap plugs. Or you can also just cut part of the sealing boot off the wires then it should fit. Then you will have 2 bolt holes that you do not need that will have to be filled(look at pic)
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n314/speedeuphoria/Feb06-06003.jpg

For 96-99 dohc's Autozone has the 180^ thermostat(stock is 195^) that is special order(VALUCRAFT
MED TEMP-180 DEGREE 4208 $9.99
SEAL INCLUDED), tell them to look up a 98 neon, then it is an option) but cheaper than Howell automotive

Use of a 2002+ head on a pre-2001 block will require either welding and red-drilling of front oil drain on the cylinder head. OR installing of freeze plugs to the head and the block on the front oil drain to eliminate the passage. A diesel shop will have them. Early Cummins turbo freeze plugs for the head
2.0 DOHC are the most common in the JY
2.4 N/A are next
PT N/A Head that has NO EGR is the next best circa @ 2002 mid year. Lower exhaust port floor = better flow

PT turbo head is better yet since it has better exhaust valves and no EGR(technically). These can be found CHEAP and are nearly as good as

SRT turbo head. The best flowing stock head you can get! BUT, to use an old style intake mani (non-SRT) you must add metal and create bolt holes in the intake side of the head so that you have enough clampage. Even then you must drill out two extra holes in the intake manifold flange so that it can seal properly. OR get an SRT intake but, that may not clear the dizzy

If your making a custom Intake then you can use the PT waterneck that bolts to the head(also keeps the intake from getting heatsoaked from the coolant)


Cams/Gears:
2.0 cams are a great place to start(best factory cam from all the 2.0/2.4's) and theese should be good settings. (Russ wrote)I have found on my old setup 4-6* advance on intake side,pulled smooth from idle to 7k RPM with 0-4* neg on exhaust cam
All neon/Srt cams are the same for our purposes. You can have great results from aftermarket cams as well, here are the aftermarket cams
.............................Intake .......Exhaust
Cam................Duration Lift Duration Lift
Stock SRT...........248 0.325 248 0.259
Stock 2.0/neon....243 0.344 243 0.315
Crane 12.............246 0.364 246 0.364
Crane 14.............246 0.364 238 0.345
Crane 16.............250 0.374 250 0.374
Crane 18.............258 0.394 258 0.394
Crower S1...........246 0.357 246 0.308
Crower S2...........246 0.387 240 0.382
Notes:These are Crower Cams, not Brian Crower Cams
*Be Carefull. w/ cams above .375" lift and JE 8.5CR pistons! They have small valve reliefs and pistons and valves will touch!*
2.4 gears go w/ a 2.4 motor(stock gears are reversible,2.0 on one side/2.4 the other)


Here's some bolt sizes
Valve Cover to Head- M6 x 1.00 x 17-Qty 10(96-99)
Coil Pack to Valve Cover- M6 x 1.00 x 50 -Qty 4(96-99)
Fuel Rail to Intake Manifold- M8 x 1.25 x 16 -Qty 2(all years)
Exhaust Manifold to Head Bolts- M8 x 1.25 x 25 -Qty 6(or use 8studs)
Exhaust Manifold to Head Studs- M8 x 1.25 x 51 -Qty 2(or use 8 studs)
Exhaust Manifold to Head Nuts- M8 x 1.25 - Qty 2(or 8studs)
DOHC: Intake Manifold to Head- M8 x 1.25 x 28 -Qty
Throttle Body to Plenum- M8 x 1.25 x 60 -Qty 2
IAC Sensor to Throttle Body- M5 x .8 x 12 -Qty 2
TPS Sensor to Throttle Body- M5 x .8 x 20 -Qty 2
Water Neck to Intake Manifold- M6 x 1.00 x 30 -Qty 2

2.0 DOHC Head Bolts
M11 x 1.5 x 110 -Qty 4
M11 x 1.5 x 156 -Qty 6
2.4 DOHC Head Bolts
M11 x 1.5 x 146 -Qty 10
There is no arp headstud kit for the 2.4(well actually there is now, but on summit it doesn't say what its for, this is the # ARP 141-4204) or use the VW 1.8 20v set ARP 204-4204(same length and pitch bolts)

2.0 bedplate bolts:
M8 x 1.25 x60
M11 x 1.5 x 65

2.4 bedplate bolts:
M8 x 1.25 x 70
M11 x 1.50 x 75

Cam Gear to Camshaft-M12 x 1.50 x 52 -Qty 2
Crank Pulley to Crankshaft-M12 x 1.75 x 87.5 -Qty 1
Oil Pan Drain Plug-M14 x 1.50 x 16 -Qty 1

DOHC Cam Caps-M6 x 1.0 x 35 -Qty 18
DOHC Cam Caps-M8 x 1.25 x 40 -Qty 6
Cam Sensor to Head-M6 x 1.0 x 20 -Qty 2
Alternator Bracket to Block-M10 x 1.50 x 40 -Qty 3
Alternator Pivot Bolt-M10 x 1.50 x 100 -Qty 1

Oil drain plug M14 x 1.5(srt pan)


Heres some torque specs for the 2.4
Camshaft Position Sensor Pickup Bolts:20 ft lbs
Connecting Rod Bolts:20 ft lbs plus 1/4 turn
Bedplate:
M8 bolts- 250 inch lbs
M11 bolts- 30 ft lbs
Crank Pulley Bolt: 100 ft lbs
Valve Cover Bolts: 105 in lbs
Engine Mount Bracket Attaching Bolts: 30 ft lbs
Exhaust Manifold Bolts: 200 in lbs
Intake Manifold Bolts: 20 ft lbs
Oil Filter to Block Adapter: 40 ft lbs
Oil Filter: 15 ft lbs
Oil Pan Bolts: 105 in lbs
Oil Pan Drain Plug: 25 ft lbs
Oil Pump Attaching Bolts: 20 ft lbs
Oil Pump Cover Bolts: 105 in lbs
Oil Pickup Tube Bolt: 20 ft lbs
Oil Pump Relief Valve Cap: 40 ft lbs
Spark Plugs: 20 ft lbs
Timing Belt Tensioner: 20 ft lbs*
Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley Assembly: 30 ft lbs*
Water Pump: 105 in lbs
*These are for the 95-96 2.4L Motors with the hydraulic tensioner

[Speedeuphoria]

Timing Belt Tensioner How to:
Loosen the center lock bolt about one turn, no need to go more than that. This should allow the black stamped steel piece under the bolt head to rotate. There will either be a 1/4" socket extension hole in it or a 6mm allen head hole in it. Gently rotate the center piece CLOCKWISE. You will see the pulley move "down" and to the left slightly. This will allow you to just barely sneak the belt over the pulley. Get all the slack out of the belt between the crank, water pump and both cam gears. Then use the allen wrench or extension and start to turn the center piece COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. Eventually you will see the small aluminum bracket on the back side of the pulley start to "float" and rotate clockwise when the assembly starts to put pressure on the belt. When the small opening in the center of that aluminum bracket lines up with the exposed spring wire tang, the tension is set. Hole the allen wrench/extension and tighten the lock bolt. Rotate the engine assembly over a couple of times and look at the location of the aluminum bracket and spring tang to be sure they are close to where you set them. It's very easy to set the tension with this design. Eventually I'll get a how-to put together for the Archives since the same procedure applies to late model SOHC and 2.4

Unless you use the hydrolic tensioner which has worked flawless for me.http://www.bstockum.com/tensionerpage1.html


Mounts:
Passengers side- you'll need a special adapter bracket made to place the 2.4 in the 2.0 neon engien compartment. It is made by toomanyneons on www.neons.org, or you can combine a stratus or neon w/ the your factory mount

Drivers side- depends on the tranny. Currently you can use a TD 413 mount on the neon 413 based tranny.

Front mount- combined 2.4 and factory , or I used a tweaked caravan
Rear-The newer auto trans have a provision for a rear mount. the caravan 2.4 is the only one that actually uses it. You can easily make a new one w/ the caravan mount and stock bobble strut location on the K frame.


Transmissions:
Manual- Yes, you can install the cable operated NVT350 1995-1999 neon 5 speed in either 3.55 FD or 3.94 FD. Yes, you can install a TD 520,523,555,568 tranny with some modification. Axles Stock large splined axles should do to begin with

Yes, you can install a srt4 tranny, but you also have to install a hydraulic clutch system.The measurements I made on my 2.4 and NVT350 have me a little concerned. I will know more once I have the engine back from the machine shop, and mated up to the tranny, but the measurement from tranny mount to pass side mount is not quite the same as a L body. Looks like some serious custom fabrication might be in order if it will work at all

In addition, I know that the 2.4 with the neon 3 speed (413) uses a stock 413 mount, and Omni large splines, but the NVT350 will use a large spline on the drivers side, but will require something else on the pass side. One the neon the pass side axle is different from the auto to the manual, I just don't know how much yet.

Auto- neon/caravan 3spd bolts up and uses factory large spline axles. Stratus newer 4spd electronic trans has not beed tried yet


Accessories:

PWR Steering FAQ:
Neon underdrive pulleys work on the 2.4,you need a '00+ neon UDP(and will have to mount a remove reservoir, which there is only one real place for it to go, between pass strut tower and firewall).The stock TM Saginaw pwr steering pressure line fits the newer 2.4 pump. If you have a log manifold you may need to modify the bracket for the pressure line to not be so close to the header

Alternator:
The alt 2.4 alt pulley is 6 grove, the udp is supposed to be 4 like the PS(for some reason the cheapy off ebay is 5 groove), either way you will need a different pulley for the alt

Electronics:

Your factory tack/spedo will work as standalone gauges if you want to use a non factory type computer

Using a Dizzy off the intake cam w/ factory wiring:
dizzy conversion construction link
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181

Need a new cal

Standalone:
Most of these are similar and most require you to use an external voltage regulator. Its best to ask someone w/ a similar setup the best way to go about it.

Megasquirt is an in-expesive system that can read the factory crank setup. There is lots of info on www.neons.org

[Speedeuphoria]

OK so how long does it let me edit this stuff before its not an option??(Frank)

I am going to add more links and pics throughout but it may take me a couple of days, then you can sticky or FAQ or whatever

That was a lot of work, but it looks a hell of a lot better. Just making sure that TM.com is the best site :amen:

[Darkapollo]

BUMP
Frank I think this should be sticky
This has all of the part numbers and is a very good guide for doing the conversion.

[SoCalCSX]

It's in the knowledge center, in the engine section.