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RJ138
07-04-2012, 12:36 PM
My gauge cluster lights are not coming on, I checked the fuse, the connections to the cluster, and the headlight switch. All gauges are working just no lights. I found a pile of green powder under the headlight switch, could this be the cause? Headlights and fog lights work. All other interior lights work, radio and traveler. I also have a second fuse off the fuse slot for the gauges running the light for my boost gauge and that works. I am going to try and source another headlight switch but want to know if I should be looking elsewhere for the cause of my no light issue.

http://i218.Photobucket.com/albums/cc175/turbosleepers/4a5d35c8.jpg

RJ138
07-04-2012, 11:03 PM
Looks like my running lights in the rear aren't working either and my left headlight is weak especially with the fog light on.

I went and picked up the switch unit from O'Reilly's but it doesn't have the double click and is missing the second prong to what ever is on the right of the stock switch unit (only has one prong on the new one) so I didn't put it in. I hope replacing this switch fixes my problems but will try and pick up a mopar unit.

cordes
07-04-2012, 11:55 PM
Headlight switches are problematic due to the fact that our headlights are not relayed and can really tax the switch. You may consider relaying the headlights while you're trouble shooting the wiring.

RJ138
07-06-2012, 01:32 PM
What is the connector for that connects into the two prongs to the right of the switch? It connects basically to the frame of the switch and the connector is in the shape of a T. The aftermarket units only have one prong. Do I just leave this unplugged?

I will try and snap a picture later.

RJ138
07-07-2012, 12:08 AM
Swapped in a unit from an acclaim, the connections were the same but the component was a little different. Figured it should work anyway... Well it didn't solve my problems. My dash lights and running lights are still out. Where should I look now? I really want to get this sorted out so I can take it out on our cool nights. Its been over 4 years...:mad:

cordes
07-07-2012, 12:13 AM
Is there power at the fuse when the headlights are turned on?

RJ138
07-07-2012, 12:19 AM
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/turbosleepers/469efb3f.jpg

Spirit R/T unit on left Acclaim unit on right. The R/T unit has a spring the other unit doesn't. Do I need this same unit to work correctly? Or is my problem elsewhere?

cordes
07-07-2012, 12:27 AM
The spring is for dimming the lights. You shouldn't need it.

RJ138
07-07-2012, 12:36 AM
Is there power at the fuse when the headlights are turned on?

I'm not sure, how can I check that? I'm not the greatest with electrical as you can probably tell.

Does the dash lights fuse control the running lights also? From what I have read when the dash and running lights go out its usually the headlight switch. I pulled two headlight switches from the salvage yard this evening, maybe I will try the other one tomorrow.

cordes
07-07-2012, 12:42 AM
I'm not really sure what goes where on all of the body styles. I did have a short in my instrument cluster wiring a while back in my Shadow though. The fuse for the inst. cluster lights would be hot when the switch was pulled out as I recall.

If you have a volt meter you cant test this by touching one probe to each side of the fuse while the head lights are on. Set it for 20 volts and you should see voltage there. If not, it's most certainly a switch issue, but it could theoretically be the short run of wire from the switch to the fuse block too.

RJ138
07-07-2012, 01:04 AM
I'm not really sure what goes where on all of the body styles. I did have a short in my instrument cluster wiring a while back in my Shadow though. The fuse for the inst. cluster lights would be hot when the switch was pulled out as I recall.

If you have a volt meter you cant test this by touching one probe to each side of the fuse while the head lights are on. Set it for 20 volts and you should see voltage there. If not, it's most certainly a switch issue, but it could theoretically be the short run of wire from the switch to the fuse block too.

I busted out the multi meter and tested the dash lights fuse and it was pretty much zero. I guess that means, as you wrote, either this other switch is bad or its the wiring leading up up to the fuse.

Thanks for your help! I will update tomorrow if I make any progress.

RJ138
07-07-2012, 10:45 AM
I think I figured it out, one of the wires behind the fuse block for the tail lamps pulled out a bit and was not making a connection at the fuse. I pushed the wire back in and the dash lights came on.

Hopefully I didn't pull out anymore wires when I pulled the fuse block down, not to much room to see and work on back there.

Thanks again Cordes for your help.

cordes
07-07-2012, 10:51 AM
Sweet. I'm glad it was such an easy fix.