1990 Daytona Shelby VNT Voltage & More Problems

[90Spirit2.5]

I bought my VNT at the beginning of this year. There was no engine and trans in it, and it was a definite project car. But, I decided to not part it out and restore it. Even though I knew nothing about the previous owners experiences with the car and why a partout had been started on the car at only 160k miles. So, I recently finished installing the engine I just rebuilt for the car, and I am having issues with voltage and am getting several codes. Now I am thinking about those dreaded thoughts I had early on in the start of the project, "I wonder if the wiring harness has issues and that was one of the reasons it was being parted". I am only getting voltage from the battery to run the car. I have a brand new Bosch alternator, and have tried two other Denso alternators I have lying around to see if it would cure the voltage issue. It did not cure it and now I am thoroughly sure it isn't a alternator problem. The codes I am getting are, 35 Problem in Fan Control Relay driver circuit, 61 Baro Read Circuit Failure, 64 VNT Solenoid # 1 Failure, 41 Charging System excess or no alternator field current, & 13 Problem in MAP Sensor pneumatic system. Of course only one is directly related to the charging system. I am thinking some of the other codes are being placed due to inadequate voltage to certain solenoids/sensors. The ECU was tested and driven with for 200 miles in another VNT vehicle and it operated fine. When checking voltage at battery when vehicle is running I get 12 volts or less if I run the car for awhile because the car is solely running on the battery. I have seen problems in the wiring harness between the alternator and the battery before and have had to replace them on the other cars. I am hoping that is the case and after I get the alternator charging the system and supplying 14 volts, all the other kinks will iron out. Any other ideas? The fan circuit does have a problem because when I unplug the CTS to set the ignition timing the fan doesn't turn on. The car is idling a little high, 1200 or so. Engines running a little rich, black plugs. The whole time I was dumping money into this project I was http://www.turbododge.com/forums/images/smilies/extras/fingersx.gif. Thanks for reading

[pauly_no_van]

you say bay was "gutted".
Was there a harness there?
Have you imported ANY part of harness from another vehicle?

[90Spirit2.5]

All I meant by "gutted" was there was no engine or transmission in it. Harness was complete. Updated original posting to clear things up.

[cordes]

I bought my VNT at the beginning of this year. There was no engine and trans in it, and it was a definite project car. But, I decided to not part it out and restore it. Even though I knew nothing about the previous owners experiences with the car and why a partout had been started on the car at only 160k miles. So, I recently finished installing the engine I just rebuilt for the car, and I am having issues with voltage and am getting several codes. Now I am thinking about those dreaded thoughts I had early on in the start of the project, "I wonder if the wiring harness has issues and that was one of the reasons it was being parted". I am only getting voltage from the battery to run the car. I have a brand new Bosch alternator, and have tried two other Denso alternators I have lying around to see if it would cure the voltage issue. It did not cure it and now I am thoroughly sure it isn't a alternator problem. The codes I am getting are, 35 Problem in Fan Control Relay driver circuit, 61 Baro Read Circuit Failure, 64 VNT Solenoid # 1 Failure, 41 Charging System excess or no alternator field current, & 13 Problem in MAP Sensor pneumatic system. Of course only one is directly related to the charging system. I am thinking some of the other codes are being placed due to inadequate voltage to certain solenoids/sensors. The ECU was tested and driven with for 200 miles in another VNT vehicle and it operated fine. When checking voltage at battery when vehicle is running I get 12 volts or less if I run the car for awhile because the car is solely running on the battery. I have seen problems in the wiring harness between the alternator and the battery before and have had to replace them on the other cars. I am hoping that is the case and after I get the alternator charging the system and supplying 14 volts, all the other kinks will iron out. Any other ideas? The fan circuit does have a problem because when I unplug the CTS to set the ignition timing the fan doesn't turn on. The car is idling a little high, 1200 or so. Engines running a little rich, black plugs. The whole time I was dumping money into this project I was http://www.turbododge.com/forums/images/smilies/extras/fingersx.gif. Thanks for reading

have you checked the field terminal wires yet?

[moparman76_69]

Would the voltage regulator be in the SBEC?

[cordes]

Would the voltage regulator be in the SBEC?

Yes..

[moparman76_69]

Assuming that the alternator is connected correctly (meaning all 4 wires are there). I'd say the voltage regulator has fried to the point of allowing unregulated voltage (18V or so), hence the code.

[90Spirit2.5]

All problems have been solved. I had a blown fuse, a bad sensor, and a bad relay. The radiator fan fuse(#16 in fuse block) is also a shared fuse for the field wires of the alternator. That fuse was blown, I replaced it. The voltage problems were then gone, along with most of the sensor codes I was getting(due to those sensors/solenoids not getting proper voltage). My radiator fan relay was bad so replacing that fixed my fan problem. And lastly I swapped out my MAP sensor which made the car run smoothly and not place the MAP code anymore. All is well and now this VNT car is back on the road after it's long nap!

[cordes]

That was a hummer of a problem for sure. Glad to see the good report.