ball joint/ti rod replacement / symptoms

[Sundance 6g72]

Okay so i have this pop when i turn right agressivly. sounds like it comes from the passenger side suspention.


i did not have this pop before i pulled my motor and put it back in. before the car went back on the road, the sway bar was removed and so where the tie rod ends(ball joint part) and the lower ball joints in order to get the axles in and out.

i want to say this pop is my sway bar bushings because the bushings kind of have a gap (they are old and need replaced) but i also know that this pop could be a ball joint.

i removed the wheels and tried to lift the brake caliper/rotor up and down as hard as i could. there was no up and down play. tried to move the rotor forward and backware (toward radiator and toward trunk).

so no play in any direction. i even gave the axles and tie rods some wiggling and they had no play.


im going to replace the ball joints either way but id like to order from rock auto instead of the local parts stores (most filled with --- hole employes. rock auto treats me nice)

does it sound like i have ball joint problems and need them replaced right away or do i have time to wait for shipping?

[turbovanman²]

Jack up the car under the ball joint, then try to move the wheels back and forth, side to side, any play replace components.

The crunch could be the strut bearing.

[black86glhs]

Tie rod end, SB bushings, end links, outer c/v joint, ball joint, strut itself.
These are items I have seen cause a noise in a turn or while turning like you describe.
Forgot control arm....but not as likely unless bushings are fubar.

[RoadWarrior222]

Cracked K frame will do it too...

Bushings just usually bang a lot on bumps.

[Big_P]

start off with the bushings, you gotta fix what you know is bad before you do anything else.

[85boostbox]

Plus one. I had a 90 daytona that sounded like a ball joint but it was the inner sway bar bushings. Ordered some from johnny and ta da noise went away.

[Sundance 6g72]

thanks guys

i did some looking today, and my passenger front wheel had some wiggle on the top and bottom. looks to be a wheel bearing problem.

im going to order a new wheel bearing and im thinking of new ball joints as well. problem is, not sure what brand to go with

im thinking ACdelco. they seem to make decent products but i dont want to buy something that might happen to give everyone problems. what do you guys think?

[RoadWarrior222]

IF you see timken get timken, but otherwise AC Delco stuff usually ain't bad.

[Sundance 6g72]

forget the brand i bought for the wheel bearing and hub. i looked it up and found nothing but good about them

got the ac delco ball joints. the reviews seemed to favor the moog but they all stated the ac delco is also quality. saved me about $20 that i didnt have.


starting to think that the wheel bearing is the cause of the nosie that im hearing. i hate to say this but i have to drive the car tomorrow morning and today. not alot but i do have to drive....

i looked up johneys site and i think ill be getting his tranny mount and swaybar bushings sometime soon. pairing that with my custom solid passenger side mount should make the engine sit still (have solid bobble strut)

[RoadWarrior222]

We're not allowed to buy moog for our cars, Simon doesn't like them :D .... but I've had moog BJs in the van for quite a while and they've been okay.

[Sundance 6g72]

i guess that makes me a good boy :)

[black86glhs]

Moog's were fine. Some of the newer stuff is starting to incorporate Chinese crap. It can be hit or miss with somethings.

[135sohc]

Raybestos professional here. Last couple of moog products have been a real let down for the extremely short lifespan before they were just trashed and loose.

[Sundance 6g72]

that stinks. oem has lasted me until now (little over 100k)

technically i am the only owneR (well my dad is :P ) so i know everything is factory. honestly, they look a little beat but there is absolutly no play on the driverside wheel. the only play on the passenger side is the top of the tire can be pushed in and out (toward the strut, and toward the outside of the fender) making me think its the wheel bearing.

[Sundance 6g72]

so i am embarised to admit that my pop noise was the axle nut being finger freaking loose. i didnt bother to check it with my finger the first time around because i didnt have a socket to fit it. i figured my super human stregth wasnt getting off so i should just put the wheel back on and wait until i have the socket.

im still replacing the wheel bearing considering i have a brand new one now but you know.. tightend up the axle nut and i cant for the life of me get the car to make the pop noise.

[RoadWarrior222]

Well it's fairly likely that bering is damaged now, running without the preload on it, so just as well you got a new one.... might not have lasted long had you torqued up the nut first time you checked it, so don't think you cost yourself it "for nothing" as it were... don't forget to use the split pin and cap on it when you put the new one in.

If you don't have a torque wrench that goes up to 150ftlb when you put the new one on, use some physics, like if you weigh 200lb and use a 8in leverage and put all your weight on the end, i.e. stand balancing on the end of it, that should be 150ftlb at the nut.

If you don't have your own axle socket, it's officially 32mm but there's one that usually sells cheap, a 1 1/4" "oil sender" deep impact socket, that you can usually find in the special tools for like $7 vs paying 15-20 for a single deep 32mm.