Rod bolts

[shackwrrr]

I was disassembling my engine and when I tapped on a rod bolt to push the piston out of the cylinder and the rod bolt just popped out. Is that telling me that it stretched?

What is the difference between wavloc and normal on arp? I know the wavloc is a pain to get the caps off but any advantage?

[Directconnection]

Tap the bolt back... should be ok unless the hole it goes into is a total slip fit. There should be *some* press fit into the hole..... (don't mix the bolts around, either)


The wavloc bolts vs normal arps don't really offer too much more strength over the standard arp bolt. To make the bolt snug in the rod (and the cap), they knurl the shank, which puts sharp serrations which technically could lead to a stress riser. The wavlocs aren't knurled but have those waves which suck to put caps on/off. I also believe the material is much better, too, and made of the same material your basic H-Beam and I-Beam performance rod bolts are made of from Eagle to Oliver and everything in between. That material designation on the bolt is "8740" and ARP 2000 is even better. Then you got L-19, and Plus this and Ultra that.... some bolts for Carrillo, etc... cost us $35 each! So anyways, you see the pattern in bolt material. 8740 is the basic designation for entry level cap screw style bolts in performance rods, but high end material in stock configuration style bolt/nut like what you have.

[shackwrrr]

Thanks for the awesome reply

[Directconnection]

Thanks for the awesome reply

Don't thank me.... thank my OCD.


:p



BTW: if you put in new rod bolts, you WILL need to have the big ends re-sized.

[turbovanman²]

BTW: if you put in new rod bolts, you WILL need to have the big ends re-sized.

Not always, :eyebrows:

[shackwrrr]

I would if I were going to replace them.

[Directconnection]

Not always, :eyebrows:

This is NOT debatable. I don't argue ball joints and brake jobs with you for obvious expertise reasoning... so don't do the same here. :nod: