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mock_glh
04-23-2012, 12:54 PM
Who has wheel studs that are 1 inch longer than stock for the front on an L-body? The 14.94mm knurl seems to be the part that is hard to find.

Orangetona
04-23-2012, 02:25 PM
I just looked at work (Napa) there are NO 14.94 knurl studs other than 641-2167 and thats the original one.

2.216VTurbo
04-24-2012, 08:58 AM
Who has wheel studs that are 1 inch longer than stock for the front on an L-body? The 14.94mm knurl seems to be the part that is hard to find.

Remember the guy you bought the GLHS from in Tuscon? Tom had like a cache of 100 sets of the MP long studs back in the day. He may still have them...

mock_glh
04-24-2012, 11:12 AM
Is that guy still around? Last I heard about him he wasn't in good health. I did however find a place that sells H&R brand studs that look like they'll work.
http://www.ultrarev.com/1254804-hr.html

22shelby
04-24-2012, 12:06 PM
any good machine shop can bore out the holes to anysize studs you want, as long as the knurl end is bigger ofcourse... i thought the guys were using the ford taurus ones... no???

Orangetona
04-24-2012, 05:10 PM
any good machine shop can bore out the holes to anysize studs you want, as long as the knurl end is bigger ofcourse... i thought the guys were using the ford taurus ones... no???

I thought I heard that too. Idk what year so I guessed. The knurl is only 13.41

mock_glh
04-24-2012, 07:01 PM
[QUOTE=22shelby;912101]any good machine shop...QUOTE]

As a matter of fact I own one of those. I could do that, couldn't I?

22shelby
04-25-2012, 11:25 AM
cna you bore out a hole to the .001?? then yeah you can make the hole bigger.... just as long as you find a stud the same size with just a bit bigger knurl end.. had a buddy that put a ford 8.8 axle in the back of his S-10, had the rear hubs drilled out to 5x4.5 to fit the chevy bolt pattern... a 4x4 shop in my area did it for him fo 40 bucks each axle...

heck i would imagine you could do it on a drill press if your good with one... and the right bit size ;)

---------- Post added at 10:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:23 AM ----------

here read this http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?48665-Longer-wheel-studs&highlight=ford+wheel+studs


dam i love T-Ms search function...

rbryant
04-25-2012, 12:19 PM
heck i would imagine you could do it on a drill press if your good with one... and the right bit size ;)[COLOR="Silver"]


Yea they don't drill out very hard. I just used my cheapo 1/2" harbor freight drill press. I did have to move the platform out of the way and set the hub directly on the base of the press though because the 37/64 demming bit was so long.

The taurus studs are only about 11mm longer than stock though and they have an unthreaded nose so they don't add anywhere near 1" of threads (it is more like 1/4" longer but is enough for up to a 3/8" spacer). I am actually not even running spacers but I like the look of a longer stud with open ended lugnut.

The ARP or MP neon front studs are the best option for longer front studs. The rears come with a smaller spline but can be drilled out to match the fronts (as I did) so that the same stud can be used front and rear.

There are a few options from various cars that work for the rears depending on if the hubs are from a rear disc or rear drum setup. The rear drum hubs have a larger spline than the rear disc hubs. The rear drum hubs also push the wheel outward about 1/4" which is handy.

-Rich

---------- Post added at 09:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:13 AM ----------


[QUOTE=22shelby;912101]any good machine shop...QUOTE]

As a matter of fact I own one of those. I could do that, couldn't I?

Yep, it is no problem if you have the right sized bit. Just drill them about .1mm smaller than the spline of the stud you are installing (.15 also worked for me in a pinch). I have a 14.75mm drill bit that I would be willing to sell cheap if someone wants/needs it. I couldn't use it because the chuck on my drill press is only 1/2" and the bit doesn't have a reduced shank. That is why I had to get the 37/64" reduced shank bit and then reamed the holes slightly with it which made the interference fit a bit tighter than normal for me but worked out fine.

-Rich