AN fittings, new lines

[J&H Ryan]

So I have this Accufab universal and a rail mount one. Since no vendor makes a fuel rail that is acceptable (TU's looks like meh and doesn't have mounts, and FWD take 8 months to ship stuff) I'd like to use my stock rail, even though I'm hoping to make over 300hp tuned.

Any thoughts on that?

Also, it seems like 6an feed and 4an return is the way to go? May use stock return line/rubber hose for that. Now there is exposed rubber lines under the car now stock, and apparently the push-loc is the way to go, but no on rubber line following the stock hard line path?

If all goes well, I'll post a build thread since those who have done up an aftermarket fuel line system aren't sharing :p

Pump will be a Walbro 255 in tank. Figure I'll have to use bulkhead connectors to get around that.

[ShelGame]

Here's a nice mount that should fit the Accufab FPR. You'd have to do your own rail, though.

http://www.rossmachineracing.com/vwfpra.html

This rail should fit (420a is the same spacing as ours, of course). But, you'll have to make your own brackets...

http://www.rossmachineracing.com/eclipserail.html

I used -6 both ways just to make things easier...

[GLHNSLHT2]

Shelgame did you go 6an on the return to the stock lines or all the way back to the tank? Do you get a bubbling sound at idle?

[ShelGame]

Shelgame did you go 6an on the return to the stock lines or all the way back to the tank? Do you get a bubbling sound at idle?

All the way back to the fuel cell. No bubbling sound that I've heard, but I don't hear much over the open megaphone...

Sent from my HTC PH39100 using Tapatalk 2

[shmedley]

Here's a nice mount that should fit the Accufab FPR. You'd have to do your own rail, though.

http://www.rossmachineracing.com/vwfpra.html


I used -6 both ways just to make things easier...

Forward motion makes a fuel rail that comes with an adapter like the one here
Also the mounts on it are machined aluminum

[bgbmxer]

what brand name and type is everyone using for there fuel and oil cooler stuff? just wondering not to rob the thread

[J&H Ryan]

I've looked at Russels and Earls, quality seems similar and I've seen no horror stories on either.

[Juggy]

I Have a modified factory TIII fuel rail, already setup for external regulator, with AN fittings welded on the ends. i believe they are -8 and -6

lmk if your interested and we could prolly work out a deal for it....

[lengel]

If you are running any long runs of hose, I would run a teflon lined hose.

[Juggy]

If you are running any long runs of hose, I would run a teflon lined hose.

earls pro-lite is what i run.
they have something even lighter now

[zin]

If you are running any long runs of hose, I would run a teflon lined hose.

+1 to this! The Teflon won't be affected by the alky in our fuels today, or anything else it's likely to be used for (even nitrous!;)).

Pro-Lite still uses a rubber liner and will degrade in time (5-7yrs typ), as well as allow fuel vapors to seep out, not a big deal if the lines are outside the car, but some lines (fuel cell, etc) sometimes end up inside and you'll smell those vapors.

The Earl's Ultra-Lite hose is supper light and has a convoluted Teflon liner, so no compatibility issues or smell, but it's pricy!

Mike

PS Pretty much any major brand name fittings/hose ends will serve you well, but you may need to use the same brand hose to make it work properly.

[J&H Ryan]

I looked up the Earl's ultra flex, and its ~$26 a foot and needs crimped ends. The die alone is $300 without the tool to use it. So...yeah. I'm guessing nobody has used the push-loc under the car? I'd like to use that system (friend said that's what he'd do if he could do it all over again) and maybe make a shield for it until the car? Or am I being silly? I'm over thinking this I'm sure.

Also: figured id use a 100micron then 10 micron filter in line as well (still using walbro 255 in tank, and put a bulkhead connector on tank, use feed as return, just use FI standard rubber and clamps on return line)

[Juggy]

+1 to this! The Teflon won't be affected by the alky in our fuels today, or anything else it's likely to be used for (even nitrous!;)).

Pro-Lite still uses a rubber liner and will degrade in time (5-7yrs typ), as well as allow fuel vapors to seep out, not a big deal if the lines are outside the car, but some lines (fuel cell, etc) sometimes end up inside and you'll smell those vapors.

The Earl's Ultra-Lite hose is supper light and has a convoluted Teflon liner, so no compatibility issues or smell, but it's pricy!

Mike

PS Pretty much any major brand name fittings/hose ends will serve you well, but you may need to use the same brand hose to make it work properly.

ahhh yes my bad, mines just teflon braided, not braided and lined...

ryan, the pushlock stuff works great. if you are talking bout the russell ones that are designed for the camaro??
anytime i tried to order them they were always on backorder. Have never heard anything bad about them (like blowing off under high pressures)....

---------- Post added at 12:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:32 PM ----------

oh and the pre filter on the in tank pump should pre filter out any debris. that 100 micron would prolly be pretty useless

[J&H Ryan]

They're just generic, not designed for any particular car that I know of. 'Spose you're right on the in tank filter.

[zin]

I looked up the Earl's ultra flex, and its ~$26 a foot and needs crimped ends. The die alone is $300 without the tool to use it. So...yeah. I'm guessing nobody has used the push-loc under the car? I'd like to use that system (friend said that's what he'd do if he could do it all over again) and maybe make a shield for it until the car? Or am I being silly? I'm over thinking this I'm sure.

If you want those hoses, just call the Earl's tech line, they'll hook you up with a dealer that has purchased the required equipment to build these hoses.

Personally, I'd do stainless hardlines as much as I could, soft/braided lines have to be supported about every foot or so otherwise they'll sag and possibly take damage because of it. Of course, if you build a kind of "tunnel" out of sheet metal or something that would support as well as protect the soft lines, that would be fine too, though a bit heavy in comparison...

Mike

[lengel]

Only reason I suggested braided teflon is like ZIN said the fuel vapor will permeate the regular non teflon line hose. I heard this the first time I did my fuel system and thought yeah ok how bad can it be. Well needless to say it was bad! I couldnt park my car in the garage because it would sink the whole house up. I switched over to the telon lined hose, and not even a hint of gas smell at all. This is not an issue if you do short runs just for flex joints, but if your going front to back of the car I would not do anything but hard line or braided teflon. I used Goodridge 811 hose on my car its very reasonably priced, good quality, has a tight bend radius, and you dont need any special tools to put it together. Here is a link to the place i got my hose and fittings from.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3480

[J&H Ryan]

I stumbled across this site - the hose and fitting prices seem very agreeable. Also, their return policy is fair - as I'm sure I may find I need something else. Its all "Teflon" non TM lined. http://www.anfittingsdirect.com

Yeah, this car is a garage queen, so I'm glad I learned about the gas vapor leak - that is odd they'd even sell that and not have huge disclaimers it shouldn't be used for gas...

I'm going to use 6an line, but the Accufab reg is 4an - does this make any sense? Should I have bought the aeromotive?

[cordes]

Their stuff will work fine. If I had to do it again I'd go with the goodrich? stuff which touts a smaller dia. bend radius and probably has an easier method of fitting. The ones you ordered will be quite serviceable though.

[J&H Ryan]

Decided not to go with them (anfittingsdirect). I found out they're Chinese. I found a local car parts distributor, and using my dealer license, got access. Prices are about 70% of Summit, and they are cheap imo. I'm going to use Russell ProClassic flex lines, non-teflon, but I'll only be using it for short runs; Aluminum hard lines for the underbody and up the firewall and only for the feed. The old feed will be used as the return and the old return line retired. Will post pics and complete parts list/prices for anyone who wishes to duplicate. Russell black/black fittings, swivel connect where applicable. I bought an aeromotive afpr, it has 6an fittings, spaced a good distance, unlike the accufab with its 4an right next to each other.

39666

39667

39665

[cordes]

That looks like the same reg I have in my black omni. I love it.

[Mopar318]

Check on ebay for the used nascar lines and fittings. Aeroquip startlite can be had for pretty cheap and that is the best stuff you can get.

[J&H Ryan]

Looking at that, I might be able to get away with buying pre-crimped sections for most pieces. No black/black, but for $ savings, whatever :hail::thumb:

[Juggy]

yeah we have local cascar team here, they have TONS of old lines/fittings! my next place to shop for that stuff. building proper fuel system is something that most people skimp out on and dont do properly!

Ryan, Ill be running twin bosch 044 bumps -8 feed, each with a 100 or 80 micron prefilter, then joined together with connecting block and run single -8 to fuel rail. -6 return from rail to regulator then -6 from regulator to tank. currently using the feed as return right now, but that will be gone once I upgrade from -6 to -8 fuel line.

I have the teflon braided right now in -6, but cant afford to buy it in -8....so gotta use the regular SS stuff which I have already acquired a length that should hopefully run the length of the car

[J&H Ryan]

I bought some lines off ebay, but only for the pre-filter lines, return lines (decided to do those too), and catch cans. So now I'll have everything steel braided, no rubber or original lines. Juggy, still planning on getting that TIII rail off you, just have get the time to border hop. If it wasn't for the rent-a-cops, I would have, but when they detain you, you're not a person and they might take an hour to rummage through the car.

[zin]

Be careful with used, non-Teflon lines, especially those used for fuel... After a few years (3-5), and especially if they haven't been in constant use, the rubber liner will degrade/granulize and you'll have bits of rubber flowing through whatever they're hooked up to. If they are seasonal take offs from a NASCAR team, they'll probably be fine as they do that as a preventative measure, not because they are anywhere near the end of their useful life. To boot, most have gone to convoluted Teflon liner/Kevlar outer, which will last a lifetime in our applications (barring physical damage).

Mike

[Mopar318]

Be careful with used, non-Teflon lines, especially those used for fuel... After a few years (3-5), and especially if they haven't been in constant use, the rubber liner will degrade/granulize and you'll have bits of rubber flowing through whatever they're hooked up to. If they are seasonal take offs from a NASCAR team, they'll probably be fine as they do that as a preventative measure, not because they are anywhere near the end of their useful life. To boot, most have gone to convoluted Teflon liner/Kevlar outer, which will last a lifetime in our applications (barring physical damage).

Mike

Thats what I have. Teflon inner/kevlar outer. I bout the line for $10 shipped. It has $30 worth of hose and two starlite 90 degree swivels. I think those alone run around $40 each.

[J&H Ryan]

I couldn't find any with a black outer covering (I hate stainless braid) and teflon so I just figured I'd end up checking and or replacing them every 3-4 years. The line itself is cheap and the fittings theoretically are infinitely reusable.

[J&H Ryan]

doing vac lines as well, this should be fun, I normally hate vac lines. Will post the stash when I get everything