Junkyard starts up with 2 year old E85. Runs like water :D

[Ondonti]

Not sure why I started it. Working on the new rear windshield (install not going to hot at the bottom of the window where I need weights while its drying). It has the leaky valve cylinder heads from the Holset Spirit, no coolant, dies when rpms drop. I drove the car about 100 feet last year when I swapped out the cylinder heads and then moved it back into this parking spot. It ran better a year ago and actually started on the first kick. MSII idle control still needs to be fixed up. Pretty sure if it warmed up it would idle, just a bit high. Ignition timing is probably super off because I never set it when I swapped heads.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ynln0rMcUqE&feature=youtu.be

[Sundance 6g72]

made me smile :)



still need your addy!

[Ondonti]

So I finally installed my new rear plexiglass window, tinted solar grey. Car is full of pine needles and small branches :P I still need to work on a way to prevent air from catching the top of the hatch and going under and creating high pressure behind the window.

Advanced the timing just because I wasn't sure why it wouldn't run when RPMs dropped. Tried a few times and was able to get it to rev around 1800-2000 without dieing. The problem is that my MSII fuel maps are huge cam happy. With stock cams it runs incredibly lean below 2k rpms. After about 30 seconds it was pegging 21:1 AFR @ 1800 rpms. I know there is even less fuel at 1000 rpms. I also still need to block off the turbo oil return fitting on the oil pan :P

So it should be as simple as a map change :) I will definitely save what I have though. I think I will stick with my big boost style map that only has 4 map based load points for n/a driving. I want to learn if that really is enough to be happy driving.

My maps do need a complete revamp because 85kpa was WOT n/a @ high elevation. My 100kpa load point is "boost" up there but down here its probably going to be way too much fuel because of how safe I had it. I plan on registering the Duster and both Spirits in April and then figuring out if I want them all on insurance. Only my Holset is registered and insured at the moment. When I had the Duster insured it upped my yearly by 150 I think. Its been awhile.

[Sundance 6g72]

4 load points for NA? they say that you can be just fine on a 8x8 map so i guess it should be good. dosnt make sense to me but im not a experienced engine tuner either.

so i take it the plan is to race it NA this year?

[Ondonti]

Plan is to race something so I can enjoy myself. I don't really care what car I race. Would be fun to race The Junkyard n/a this year even if it has very few modifications and has leaking valves. I don't know yet what big modifications will happen first for this car. Exhaust seems like a bad idea to touch if I can't keep room for a transfer case but I don't want to race with a transfer case (still FWD) if passenger axles are really hard to come by. Valvetrain seems like an easy one since I can run fancy parts even with OEM manifolds. My fun side says do at least one thing this year :P

[Sundance 6g72]

transfer case talk? i say dont race until you get awd popped in that bad boy

[DodgeZ]

sounds like a turd

[Ondonti]

Registered all three 3.0's today. 3 speed Spirit needs huge oil leak investigation.
The Junkyard needs the wipers installed and wired back in. I don't remember how much of the wiring I saved when I rewired the car. I have the wires from the multifunction switch rolled up, in a bag, and taped behind the dash. Hopefully I saved the intermittent wires.
I can burn off the known E70 fuel that I have (maybe 7-12 gallons) while trying to work on an n/a VE table for OEM cams and then think about gasoline conversion. I guess one good thing about stock cams is that i need a lot more fuel at idle so maybe I can convert back to gasoline without changing injectors or dropping base pressure.

Really hoping for the Tuner Studio Android app to come out. Bought a used Samsung Galaxy S (no plan) just so I could be able to bluetooth with my megasquirt.

Not sure when I will put the Duster or 3 speed on insurance. Hoping soon but maybe not.

[Spiritman]

wait only 150 bucks more a year for a whole extra car? they want 180 a month from me for my diesel.
so then how much a year for two cars

[Ondonti]

It used to be a little over 600 per 6 months for Duster and Spirit. Dropped the Duster and dropped down to the lower 500's after my paid in full discount. Maybe 200 or so dollars difference. Who knows now.
Progressive's paid in full discount saves me almost 100 dollars every 6 months. I don't remember exactly what it was but I just paid. If I add cars then I will have to pay extra now for whatever is left of my current payment period.

Looked at email history. My first period with 2 cars was $650 per 6 months paid in full. Dropped Duster and it was only $491 for 6 months paid in full. Then $523 paid in full the 6 months after that. Last was $533 per 6 months. So I might be paying near $700 (over 300 dollars increase per year) if I add just one car and I don't want to think about it with 3 cars :(
Not sure why its going up.

[RoadWarrior222]

Still half what I have to pay for minimal coverage liability with infinity years no claims, no tix, and multiline discount :banghead: They cover me on a rental I think, so sometimes I think I'll go and rent something worth 50K or so and write it off, just to get my money's worth..

[Force Fed Mopar]

It used to be a little over 600 per 6 months for Duster and Spirit. Dropped the Duster and dropped down to the lower 500's after my paid in full discount. Maybe 200 or so dollars difference. Who knows now.
Progressive's paid in full discount saves me almost 100 dollars every 6 months. I don't remember exactly what it was but I just paid. If I add cars then I will have to pay extra now for whatever is left of my current payment period.

Looked at email history. My first period with 2 cars was $650 per 6 months paid in full. Dropped Duster and it was only $491 for 6 months paid in full. Then $523 paid in full the 6 months after that. Last was $533 per 6 months. So I might be paying near $700 (over 300 dollars increase per year) if I add just one car and I don't want to think about it with 3 cars :(
Not sure why its going up.

Sounds like you need to change companies :) Unless you are paying for full coverage, then it's probably about right.

[Ondonti]

Other companies were...more expensive for me by a large amount at the minimums and deductibles I use. I also think it might go up because I don't think the vehicle use is correct. That might make it even with other companies :P

[Force Fed Mopar]

I pay like $100 a month to Travelers right now for 2 cars, an 89 Civic (my brother's car actually, he's young enough that he still gets raped for insurance in his own name lol) with liability only, and the '89 Turbo GTC with full coverage.

[Vigo]

I think people notice that their insurance goes down more so than they notice how much older they've gotten..

Not to be nasty about it but when people 10-20 years older talk to me about how much cheaper their insurance is, it doesnt exactly help me in any way, shape, or form. :p Yeah, there is some difference between companies and all that, but the majority of the price difference between my insurance and older people's insurance IS just the age factor. Not much we can do about that.

[RoadWarrior222]

Yeah well, turning 40 this year, it goes down next renewal or I write off a rental... into the high rollers parking lot at the casino.

[Ondonti]

Mine has been going up about 10-20 bucks per renewal. I am going to be insurance shopping in August when I come due. Not sure what I will do about eventually adding my wife.

[Vigo]

Yeah well, turning 40 this year, it goes down next renewal or I write off a rental... into the high rollers parking lot at the casino.

I am all for threatening your insurance and then exploiting it mercilessly when they dont help you. The sum of my experience with auto insurance thus far has led me to believe that the best way to get your money's worth out of them is to defraud them. Honest truth.

[Sundance 6g72]

so i drove Blake Simons' (simon? Brother to Josh) car last night

ported heads, full ported intake, 58mm, 3inch exhaust, moved coil, lightweight pully and flywheel, cams (same as mopar 3.0's?)

talk about fast! I almost want to go as far as saying it was as quick as my car on 8psi... maybe its just been to long to remember. either way its faster than my car was NA... I think he will spank on the stock wrx my buddy has (has full exhaust and "tune" but not fast at all)


point of this post? I cant wait to see the junkyard run down the strip with your intake on it.

[Ondonti]

I didn't remember his name because Simon just always said "my brother" when we spoke. I can't remember from reading TD if he has parts from Josh's car or if he redid a full setup in honor of his brother. I do remember that he went with the heavier body car. Josh's P body always ran well, his Lebaron (first 3.0) ran terribly. That was not just due to weight. His Baron went 16.8 with full boltons. Put everything together in the Duster, 5 speed, and went low 14's after he redid the motor to 10:1 with new not really ported heads and a stock cam.
People in early 2000's were running Daytona's with similar mods that were much slower then the car you just drove. Those same people tended to be party poopers when anyone else tried things out, or called bs on cars being quicker then theirs.

[Sundance 6g72]

yeah this car is strong. Ill be looking forward to bobbys dyno numbers when he gets it tuned

id expect your car to go faster. probably less weight and bigger cam and intake.

his motor is bored .040 over. does that make it a 3.2L ? .04 x 6 = .24

[Ondonti]

No, its a little over 3.0L with that bore. .096 overbore is only 3.13L.

Junkyard will hopefully race with a stock cam. I am not too worried about having everything done I want done.

[Ondonti]

The Junkyard now has full intermittent wipers. First time since I owned it that it has had wipers. Need to take some pictures. I made the wiper wiring nice but looking at the engine bay makes me grumpy because I never finished looming anything in 2010 thanks to an overwhelming desire for boost driving. Wiring under the dash needs some cleaning up because I have a few wires that must had been added last minute (like the antilag clutch switch) since they are hanging around grouped to nothing else and in my clutch foot area. I have a few more things I need to do but wipers was my main goal for making the car safe for Seattle. Probably burn the 2 year old Ethanol I have in the fuel cell and in gas cans and then convert to gasoline again.

[Sundance 6g72]

orr you could stay on e70-85 and run 13:1 compression pistons and lots of timing and deck the heads and run no headgaskets

[Ondonti]

Ouch. Burned my new tables to MS in the Duster then tried to start it and the ignition circuit fried. Its perma grounding the coil now :P Opened up the Ms box and that oldschool chip of mine is allll fried. (the oldschool non reset type). Should only happen with too much dwell I thought. Wonder what happened....

[Sundance 6g72]

..............................................

[Ondonti]

Grill is attached, bumper is fixed, front plate installed. Wipers. Tune Modified, VB921 (discontinued) coil driver fried as of today.

http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh426/ondonti/Junkyard%20Version%202/Sitting%20and%20Waiting%20for%20the%20New%20Turbo% 20Setup/SANY0217.jpg
http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh426/ondonti/Junkyard%20Version%202/Sitting%20and%20Waiting%20for%20the%20New%20Turbo% 20Setup/SANY1471.jpg
http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh426/ondonti/Junkyard%20Version%202/Sitting%20and%20Waiting%20for%20the%20New%20Turbo% 20Setup/SANY1472.jpg
http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh426/ondonti/Junkyard%20Version%202/Sitting%20and%20Waiting%20for%20the%20New%20Turbo% 20Setup/SANY1475.jpg
http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh426/ondonti/Junkyard%20Version%202/Sitting%20and%20Waiting%20for%20the%20New%20Turbo% 20Setup/SANY1482.jpg
http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh426/ondonti/Junkyard%20Version%202/Sitting%20and%20Waiting%20for%20the%20New%20Turbo% 20Setup/SANY1484.jpg
http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh426/ondonti/Junkyard%20Version%202/Sitting%20and%20Waiting%20for%20the%20New%20Turbo% 20Setup/SANY1516.jpg
http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh426/ondonti/Junkyard%20Version%202/Sitting%20and%20Waiting%20for%20the%20New%20Turbo% 20Setup/SANY1517.jpg
http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh426/ondonti/Junkyard%20Version%202/Sitting%20and%20Waiting%20for%20the%20New%20Turbo% 20Setup/SANY1519.jpg
http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh426/ondonti/Junkyard%20Version%202/Sitting%20and%20Waiting%20for%20the%20New%20Turbo% 20Setup/SANY1586.jpg
http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh426/ondonti/Junkyard%20Version%202/Sitting%20and%20Waiting%20for%20the%20New%20Turbo% 20Setup/SANY1587.jpg
http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh426/ondonti/Junkyard%20Version%202/Sitting%20and%20Waiting%20for%20the%20New%20Turbo% 20Setup/SANY1588.jpg
http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh426/ondonti/Junkyard%20Version%202/Sitting%20and%20Waiting%20for%20the%20New%20Turbo% 20Setup/SANY1589.jpg
http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh426/ondonti/Junkyard%20Version%202/Sitting%20and%20Waiting%20for%20the%20New%20Turbo% 20Setup/SANY1590.jpg
http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh426/ondonti/Junkyard%20Version%202/Sitting%20and%20Waiting%20for%20the%20New%20Turbo% 20Setup/SANY1591.jpg
http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh426/ondonti/Junkyard%20Version%202/Sitting%20and%20Waiting%20for%20the%20New%20Turbo% 20Setup/SANY1592.jpg
http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh426/ondonti/Junkyard%20Version%202/Sitting%20and%20Waiting%20for%20the%20New%20Turbo% 20Setup/SANY1593.jpg
http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh426/ondonti/Junkyard%20Version%202/Sitting%20and%20Waiting%20for%20the%20New%20Turbo% 20Setup/SANY1594.jpg
http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh426/ondonti/Junkyard%20Version%202/Sitting%20and%20Waiting%20for%20the%20New%20Turbo% 20Setup/SANY1595.jpg

[paduster]

I hope that is repairable

[RoadWarrior222]

Looks it to me, but then it mighta taken a load of other components with it... in which case it's a bee-atch to figure what exactly to repair.

[87turbodance]

ouch. I'd cut that chip off and just mount a BIP373 in its place assuming the traces on the board are ok.

When did the chip fry? While burning your new tune for while trying to start it? A combination? Do you have your spark output set as inverted?

When you replace the IGBT with the BIP373 make make sure to use an insulated mounting tab and plastic screw.

I recommend do this:

"The ignition coil should be powered from the fuel pump relay. That gives additional protection against that kind of thing happening." jsmcortina - www.msextra.com

You're also better off using D14 to trigger the coil driver (IGBT) instead of JS10.




---------- Post added at 09:18 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:14 AM ----------


Looks it to me, but then it mighta taken a load of other components with it... in which case it's a bee-atch to figure what exactly to repair.

worst case it will burn the trace on the board. The load side of the IGBT is directly connected to both the ignition coil and high current ground.

[RoadWarrior222]

Restoring traces is do-able, copper tape, defogger paint, point to point jumper wires etc etc.

[Ondonti]

ouch. I'd cut that chip off and just mount a BIP373 in its place assuming the traces on the board are ok.

When did the chip fry? While burning your new tune for while trying to start it? A combination? Do you have your spark output set as inverted?

When you replace the IGBT with the BIP373 make make sure to use an insulated mounting tab and plastic screw.

I recommend do this:

"The ignition coil should be powered from the fuel pump relay. That gives additional protection against that kind of thing happening." jsmcortina - www.msextra.com

You're also better off using D14 to trigger the coil driver (IGBT) instead of JS10.




---------- Post added at 09:18 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:14 AM ----------



worst case it will burn the trace on the board. The load side of the IGBT is directly connected to both the ignition coil and high current ground.

Well the coil was permagrounding and one of my wire connections with tape on it was smoking. Coil was hot. Seems like the VB921 was permagrounded after melting. AKA every time I powered up it kept melting more. I checked and the VB921 is still grounding. I would assume the board is still happy enough because of that.

I will look at my wiring to see about a different power source (fuel pump relay). I guess mine is always on when they key is on.

What is the idea behind D14? Looks like thats one of my LED's. I guess I don't want to lose that?

I had another question, whats up with them suggesting a 330 ohm resistor with the bip373?

Set to "going high" inverted. Isn't that what they sugest? I am not running OEM wiring for any of that though. My own fuse boards and relays.
Thats what I have open on my lappy right now but I don't know what happened while I was in the car. I realized that I accidentally made the wrong firmware version of my new tune so I just exported and imported my changed tables. Not sure if I screwed something else before that.

[87turbodance]

I will look at my wiring to see about a different power source (fuel pump relay). I guess mine is always on when they key is on.

What is the idea behind D14? Looks like thats one of my LED's. I guess I don't want to lose that?

I had another question, whats up with them suggesting a 330 ohm resistor with the bip373?

I'd use the fuel pump output on MS to to pull in a relay to turn on the fuel pump, coil, injectors, alternator field and O2 heater. This way these these devices are off until the engine is spinning.

To connect your ignition coil to D14, change the jumper that connects from JS10 to IGBTIN. Instead connect the top of R26 (resistor near D14) to IGBTIN with a jumper. The top of R26 is the leg/lead facing up when holding the DB37 in your right hand with the processor facing you. Leave all the LED components in place and just solder the jumper wire to the top leg of R26. With this setup, D14 will flash each time the ignition coil is charged. If at any time in future you run wasted spark, the other two ignition coils would connect to the other two LED's resistors in the fame fashion.

The 330 ohm resistor is to protect the processor output pin from being damaged if the coil driver (IGBT) draws too much current.

If you change to D14, don't forget to change the coil output in Tuner Studio as well.

[Ondonti]

Unless I've confused myself (again), it's not the ignition circuit that dies from flyback, but rather the coil that dies from being maintained in a full-ON state for several seconds or even minutes. Depending on the particular firing circuit configuration, the 'basic' coil driver circuit is spring-loaded in the ON position, and the CPU has to tell the coil driver to turn OFF. If the processor is busy being reflashed, it doesn't know to do this, and the driver - powered along with the rest of the MS ECU - keeps allowing current to flow through the coil. And flow, and flow, and ...

This is why the on-screen instruction say to unplug the coils / pull the coil fuse(s) while flashing the MS.

Sounds like something that happened to me. Not sure exactly how yet. I was not burning when starting but in an always on condition, my weak link was the vb921.

[RoadWarrior222]

Hmmm my googlefu informs me that no-one likes those, 7A max coil current :yuck:

[Ondonti]

I'd use the fuel pump output on MS to to pull in a relay to turn on the fuel pump, coil, injectors, alternator field and O2 heater. This way these these devices are off until the engine is spinning.

To connect your ignition coil to D14, change the jumper that connects from JS10 to IGBTIN. Instead connect the top of R26 (resistor near D14) to IGBTIN with a jumper. The top of R26 is the leg/lead facing up when holding the DB37 in your right hand with the processor facing you. Leave all the LED components in place and just solder the jumper wire to the top leg of R26. With this setup, D14 will flash each time the ignition coil is charged. If at any time in future you run wasted spark, the other two ignition coils would connect to the other two LED's resistors in the fame fashion.

The 330 ohm resistor is to protect the processor output pin from being damaged if the coil driver (IGBT) draws too much current.

If you change to D14, don't forget to change the coil output in Tuner Studio as well.

So I am noticing that I was reading MS1 instructions and MS2 for the 3.0 board and 3.0 engine doesn't have these requirements (mine doesn't have a resistor).
Also read on neon's that you only really need to change to D14 if you need expansion room and want to use JS10 for something else (like a cam trigger). Right now I don't need that so I want to avoid soldering anymore then I have to (something I suck at).
I would like to buy a nice soldering iron though cause whatever I have is garbage.

Going to require some modifications of my wiring and fuse blocks to get the power corrected.

I need to read up more on that flyback "always on" thing because it seems crazy to disconnect my coil every time I want to burn something. Super stupid. I guess as long as the fuel pumps are not going I would know the coil is not powered so it doesn't matter. Flashing seems to fast since I could do it on the fly so I don't really understand this flyback thing.

Going to work so I will have to absorb more of this later.

[87turbodance]

As long as you connect the ignition coil and injector power through the fuel pump relay you wont have an issue. Fly-back is not the issue. The issues is that the output on the processor is held on whenever the MS is powered but not running the engine software - ie. when flashing your MS in car. The only happens when flashing new firmware. If you were just flashing some new tables then it shouldn't happen then.

You don't have to change the IGBT wiring but I only suggest it since you will soldering in a new IGBT anyway. A basic ten dollar soldering iron and LEAD solder work very well for working on MS. Don't use LEAD free solder because it sucks! Just don't breath in the smoke and wash your hands when you're done.

[Ondonti]

Well the LED style IGNT power sourcing sounds like something for a more complex MS build. I don't want this box to get too far because its not a long term solution for the Duster. Future would be MS3 or AEM etc. MS2 could then be installed in another car that doesn't need to be pushed very far (since I only have one functional Injector driver and Nathan could not fix it).

[Sundance 6g72]

i cant remember how i wired mine but i want to say i did it like ryan says.. i sure hope :/

[87turbodance]

It's not a more complex setup, it's just moving a wire and adding an inline resistor. It ensures you are running the recommended and most current wiring scheme. Also, there is nothing stopping you from plugging a MS3 chip into this board and having an MS3. The second injector channel that doesn't work shouldn't be difficult to fix unless the processor output pin is dead but that would be fixed by installing an MS3 card or a replacement MS2 card. An MS3 card also adds eight additional injector channels and eight addition coil channels meaning you wouldn't even need to use the existing injector drivers on your MS board.

[Ondonti]

Well I like the idea of having more then one Programmable car and I know this board was poorly built (ebay years ago) so its not something that excites me into upgrading more.
All the instructions for MS2 don't have a resistor included in the installation plan.

I ordered the BIP373 after reading a lot about the replacements people were trying back in 2007-2008.
Not sure yet what I will do about my fuse/relay situation. I should probably update my wiring schematic as well since I don't think the one I drew up before doing any wiring is accurate anymore. Looking at fuse blocks and seeing where the wires go is frustrating.

[Sundance 6g72]

okay pause.

not meaning to hijack but how would i go from ms2 to ms3 with my current megasquirt? I have msII with a v 3.57pcb or something

and what would the benefits be? sometimes i feel that i need the extra power for fractional fuel valves in the ve table.

[Ondonti]

Since the VE table can go to 255, you could probably just halve your Required fuel and double your VE values which would give you the same fueling but double the resolution when it comes to fuel!

[87turbodance]

okay pause.

not meaning to hijack but how would i go from ms2 to ms3 with my current megasquirt? I have msII with a v 3.57pcb or something

and what would the benefits be? sometimes i feel that i need the extra power for fractional fuel valves in the ve table.

Unplug your MS2 card and plug in an MS3 card. You'll also need the taller MS3 case. You don't need the MS3x board unless you really want it.

Benefits? Cool dual core MS processor... main benefits are more processing power, more features, more inputs/outputs, ect

[Sundance 6g72]

okay thats what i figured.


im looking on AEM's site and they price their EMS at $850 or so but it only has 4 injector drives and 4 coil "triggers". The price sounds good but for only 4... you could have diy build an MS3 with their fancy sequencer or whatever they call it that has coils and injector drivers for each cyl.

[87turbodance]

A MS3x board could always be added afterwards and is well worth the $90! To upgrade a MS2 to MS3 it'd be $231.00 + shipping and a half hour to swap parts into the new case and swap processors.

[Sundance 6g72]

hos is the ms3x board installed? its a seporate board than lets say my v3.57 pcb?

[87turbodance]

MS3X board is a separate board that is installed above the mainboard that has the connections for the extra inputs and outputs on the MS3 card and it also has the 8 injector drivers and 8 coil drivers on it. It has it's own DB37 connecter in addition to the main db37 connector.

[Ondonti]

Coworker suggested going to radio shack to get some circuit board solder and try to find some solder wicking braid or whatever it is.

[87turbodance]

Coworker suggested going to radio shack to get some circuit board solder and try to find some solder wicking braid or whatever it is.

Just cut the leads at the VB921 with small side cutters to get ride of the chip but leave the leads protruding from the board. Then heat one side with a soldering iron until the solder flows then pull the lead out the other side with needle nose pliers.

Once the three leads are removed, heat each hole with the soldering iron from the back and then quickly remove the soldering iron and quickly blow on the hole and all the remaining solder will blow out the back. I might take a couple tries. Once the holes are clear you can install your BIP373 and solder from the bottom. The key to soldering is to "tin" the tip of the soldering iron just a bit before you use it and then be sure to melt the solder to the lead your soldering not the end end of the soldering iron. Also clean the tip frequently.

Better off ordering a spool of solder from somewhere like Digi-key. I've never been in a Radio Shack in the US but they are terrible here (they actually all changed to "The Source" here)

[Ondonti]

I guess I didn't get to read the last post here before trying this but after my first failed attempt with braided desolder wire I bent the chip back and forth until the leads snapped off.
Then tried the solder sucker and it sucked. Tried braid a few times more and it was difficult to get it hot enough but when it did get hot enough it worked pretty well. Needed to cut off 1" sections so it doesn't suck all the heat from my solder tip.

Frustrating story short, new coil driver (transistor) is installed. BIP373. Soldering was definitely the easy part. .015" thick solder wire is kinda hard to hold while waiting for the lead to heat up because my finger pressure would deform it at the tip and where I was holding it :P I ended up sticking the wire into my mouth a few times to straighten it back out while keeping the heat on the leads. Probably good for me. Its 62/36/2 wire. Nothing much better at RadioShack.

Old vb921 is cracked in half on the bottom and still smells like robot death.

[Sundance 6g72]

but you made progress ? good :)

[Ondonti]

So it looks like the tune got corrupted when I was burning it. Dwell and every other setting got messed up. It was not set to inverted anymore, etc.
That is why it fried right after burning the new tune.

Going to sit down and update my "project" folder with exactly what I want loaded on the car without messing with things (taking old settings and adding new tables) while sitting in the car. I found this out today when I tried to fix the programing and battery voltage dropped too far to communicate.

My firmware is MS2 Extra 3.03 and I don't really know what has changed since then. I know it was a nice upgrade from the 2.xx crap I had.

Edit, looks like 3.21 is the current version. Not sure if I should update until I have her happy as is. Transmission problem might prevent the car from doing anything even if it does run happy.

[Sundance 6g72]

i would run the 3.2.1. i just put that on and now spark cut rev limiter works. before i had to use fuel and spark cut to get any sort of awsome limiter lol.

[Ondonti]

i would run the 3.2.1. i just put that on and now spark cut rev limiter works. before i had to use fuel and spark cut to get any sort of awsome limiter lol.

My 3.03 Spark retard/cut worked well. It pulled 13 degrees and cut 4 out of 5 events. It was silent though as you can hear in my videos. 6900 and 7000 rpms. I do enjoy a violent limiter sound but I was more worried about preventing overrevs on stock springs with a big cam. I bet the stock 190k mile springs can go over 7000 rpms with a stock cam. These heads are from my Spirit and they are probably near 180k miles. Really hard to tell if my valves were floating before on a big cam because my rev limiter was right where I thought it was floating.

[Ondonti]

Tried to connect to the MS and when I hit the key, now the fuel pump relay is perma grounded. Not sure if that is even possible with a "tune" problem. Maybe the entire firmware is corrupted or something else is fried now. I Don't really know how to tell if my MS2 box is even turning on. All 3 lights flash and then they are off. No response through TunerStudio on any of my 3 USB ports (com 5,6,7).

[Sundance 6g72]

jeeze.. ms grounds the fuel pump so thats deff the culprit.

[Ondonti]

MS reflashed to the newest firmware. Coil fuse was blown from the original debacle, replaced and got her to start for a second. Rev's up and dies. Zeitronix is either pegged at 21:1 or not working. The boost sensor on the zeitronix reads -25.5 all the time so...

The old E85 is probably hurting things but if my wideband is not functioning I can't tell whats going on. I added tons of fuel to the low rpm idle load cells because I am running stock cams so I was hoping it would run rich. In the above video the wideband was functioning and starting out normal AFR's and the moment rpms dropped near 1000 it would peg 21:1 (because of the lean load cells it had for a big cam). No time to diagnose :( Also found out It will cost me 295 dollars to insure the car per 6 months on my current plan. Transmission is still messed up with something preloaded against the synchros so I have to hold the clutch in to start the car or it wants to move forward or make bad synchro grinding sounds.