Odd issues

[Dony409]

I have made my 86 Daytona into a monster :p it's a 85 ghead with pistons ect and a gasket matched 1 peice and all 88 tII parts setup with a 87 glhs lm hooked up and I was using a OTC scanner to figure out why my car wouldn't run without my foot on the gas. I fixed this by resetting the ais but now have run into the issue that the car idles terribly (nothin to do with the ais anymore) I can hear it actuate when I crest a vacuum leak but before I could easily get 18 inches of vacuum now 10 is the highest it's got... My timing still seems to line up properly? My belt seems a little slack but not near slack enough to slip a new belt? My map solenoid was changed so was the map itself because it idles horrible and really really rich also but seems to clear up a bit once revved I think this whole issue is being caused by too much fuel but don't know why

[RoadWarrior222]

Okay Dr Frankenstein, what you need is some 00 gauge copper cable, connected to a spike on a tall tower, and wait for the thunderstorms to roll in... ;-)

j/k

Belt tension should be okay if it deflects a max of 1/2" on the tension side before you meet high resistance. Get a propane torch and gas around the manifold and vacuum lines to check for leaks. Or use a piece of hose to listen for them.

[Dony409]

If I have no vacuum leaks the car should quit if I put my finger over the ais right? Cause that doesn't work for me it just sucks air through the PVC drain? If I plug both it chugs pretty hard. I got codes off of the car finally because my power limited light doesn't work (I don't care what's wrong with that I just want to get the car running) my codes are 88 12 13 31 34 42 55 this. Car is now a tII (no egr) and the AC is cut so that might help and my evap bottle is unhooked also when I did this I did not have the solenoid hooked up for my boost control

[RoadWarrior222]

Well 13 is a MAP code ...
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/fault/code13.html

12 is battery disconnect, ignore, 55 is end of fault codes ignore, 31 and 34 are related to EGR delete. Though 31 is also canister purge, is that blocked off?


42 is an ASD relay code, though I dunno how the hell it's running if it's got a fault, is it hotwired?
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/fault/code42.html

Anyway, I think that the code 13 indicates a vacuum issue somewhere and is most of your problem. Try the stuff in the link also.

[Dony409]

Ok well I changed the map already I checked te line And I kinda though it seemed gassey but
Just vapour and I assumed that's just cause its running über rich

[Orangetona]

You definitely need to check out the map vac line as well as the wiring to the LM. Could be a loose connection.

Also, can you take an accurate picture of your cam timing? I feel its possible that can be an issue also.

Hmm...You used a GLHS LM? Dont you need to move pins around to make that work? Not only the AIS pins added but the SDS and other stuff

[Dony409]

Nope but the car was running perfectly with awesome vac 18 inches and I re aligned the crank to tdc and it still is good... I cannot post photos off of my phone but I went through everyone thinking my timing was wrong last time... Done this before... It's RIGHT! What isn't right is the alignment of my distributor but it's still very near where It should be. I have not done my ignition timing with a timing light yet because our timing light iOS broken but that will be done eventually I truly think this has to do with either my ignition or my map or a combo of both... Why would it run so good before and crappy now though?

[Orangetona]

Well...while its running just get your ignition timing close to what you think the car should sound like.

I personally think its your map.

However, a GLHS LM IS different than a regular TII pinout. I dont have my info in front of me at work but I know the SDS is not the same and that could be causing some issues. Even though I dont see a code for it.

[Dony409]

My car is an 86 do it originally had tI wiring I do think my ignition is still a little off cause my dizzy is all the way one way but it's still improving as I move it that way

[Orangetona]

If the distributor is pointed all the way a certain direction then when you did your timing belt the intermediate shaft probably moved.

Yeah I got thinking, a GLHS LM should be fine. I was thinking TII vs glhs for some reason.

[Dony409]

My dizzy has always been like that cause it was set poorly to start but when I get a timing light I'll fix it

[RoadWarrior222]

Just a sec, is the MAP on the LM for a '87 ???

[Dony409]

Your not a glhs guy eh? The glhs retained the 86 style wiring because they were discontinued in 87 these cars still had the map on the lm

[RoadWarrior222]

Yeah, I was just wondering if you were testing a MAP that came on the 88 motor hooked to god knows what when your active one is sitting there without a vacuum source :D

[Orangetona]

That vacuum line going into the car is very typically easy to leak so definitely check that out

[Dony409]

Grrr!!!! I already did! It doesn't leak!!

[Tbird232ci]

If you have gas vapor in the vac line, check the fuel pressure regulator, pull the vac line off, and see if fuel is coming out.

[Dony409]

Ok il do that... Could I use a. 86 tI regulator if this one is bad?

[Orangetona]

Grrr!!!! I already did! It doesn't leak!!

Oh...idk the back history to this car. I know you said that it was fine but it could be pinched or something too. Its really easy for it to happen considering the way its routed.

K, idk whats wrong with it. Bye

[Dony409]

Nope I tried it... Thought it was leaking I then learned I forgot to plug the other end then it held vacuum