Won't start

[Dony409]

My 86 daytona was running fine and then I changed some stuff and now it doesn't! It will start and run fine with moderate throttle but will just die when I let off? This is a 86 Daytona tII conversion with glhs lm. What I changed was to a different distributor (changed back already) changed vacuum solenoids(change back already) resealed tappet cover. I then added in my ais wires to the lm it ran great for a minute or two stalled and now is runnin like symptoms!!!????!

[speedfreek500]

Sounds like you need to reset the ais motor to me.

[Dony409]

And how do we do
This?

[turbovanman²]

Turn the key on and off 3 or 4 times, then start it.

Sure you have the new wires in the right spot?

Fuel pressure? Codes?

[Dony409]

Don't have a way to check pressure but smells gassey when cranking and I can't get codes... The engine light has never worked?!! I've looked into it and the bulb and circuit are fine so I'm assuming my dash is fudged

[turbovanman²]

Do you have a scanner? Check your grounds. Check spark. Consider buying a fuel pressure gauge, they really are needed if you plan on keeping your car.

Trace the wire for the dash bulb, then power it up, if it doesn't turn on, then you know you have a wiring issue or bulb or instrument cluster problem.

[Dony409]

I garuntee you that my digi dash if f****d

[turbovanman²]

Isn't the SES light a bulb, even on digital?

[Dony409]

Yup it's a bulb it's the same as the non digi but it plugs into the dash

[Dony409]

Ok so with that scanner thing where do I plug it into my car? I'm going to go get some help from a neighbour. Other question is the two extra wire for the ais are kinda confused me now... Can someone explain which wire on the plug (spot not colour) goes to port 16 and which one to port 20?

[turbovanman²]

Scanner connector is either at the passenger fenderwell or drivers fenderwell.

This might help-

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums.archive/vbarticles.php?do=article&articleid=150

[turismolover22]

On an 86 the scanner would need to be connected to the passensger diagnostic connector.

First verify basics are correct.

I am only going over this all, so you are sure you have verified everything is correct.

Do you have spark?
Do you have Fuel?
Are you timed correctly?

To check spark, remove the coil connector from the distributor. Then with another helper crank the motor over, holding the coil wire approx 1/4 inch from a good ground. You should see a very consistent, bright blue spark. If that is ok, then check the secondary spark, by reinstalling the coil lead, removing a plug, and holding that to a good ground, crank the car over with the plug connected to its respective wire, with the plugh again held against a good ground. Have spark? If so your HEP and ignition circuitry should be ok.

If you do not have spark, you will need to be able to retrieve codes, otherwise you will have a very hard time figuring out if it is a HEP circuit issue or if it is a Coil/coil lead issue.

To test fuel pump operation, take a small wire, approximately 6 inches in length, with both ends stripped, and place one end into the diagnostic connector (should be an l shaped connector underneath your solenoid pack) at the back/yellow tracer wire. Then take the other side and place it on a good solid ground. Then key your car on, and if you hear the pump then you have a running fuel pump, and should be ok.

If you do not hear the pump run, then first verify your ASD relay is operational. With the key on, (run position) take that other end of the wire and ground it. You should hear a loud audible click in your power module. That is your ASD relay actuating. If you hear this, then you need to get underneath the car and verify you have 12v atht eh pump plug. Remove the connector and with a multimeter set to DC volts, connect the red/positive probe against the plug lead, on the Green/gray wire, and the negative/balck probe against a known good ground. The other (should be black) wire is merely a body ground. With the ASD actuated, and correctly probing the connector, you should see a 12v reference signal on your meter (anything under 11 vlts wont work). If you see this, replace the pump.

Obviously you know how to time a motor, but for simplicity's sake, remove the distributor, the bellhousing view port cover (who even has one anymore) and the upper timing belt cover.

Rotate the motor until you see a large straight line in the flywheel, and align that with 0. Then with the timing belt loosened (if it isnt correct already) orientate the I-shaft so that the slot in the oil pump is parrallel to the block. Then rotate the camshaft so the small dot is at top, and the two "side" holes in the cam gear are perfectly aligned with the cam cap parting line on the head. Retension and start.

Some other things to consider.
Plugs - you stated you had cranked the car over, verify your plugs arent fuel soaked already, because if they are they wont work regardless if everything else is perfect. Also if they are, you need to verify the oil is not fuel soaked as weill, if it is don't drive it until it is replaced. You will be able to smell the gas in it.

And to answer your question about resetting base idle.

First remove the small freeze plug type deal in the throttle body. It will be covering the head of the bolt that stops the throttle plate from closing any more than it already is. Should be on the "top" of the throttle body. More than likely you will find a flat (standard) head screw, or a torx head, not sure the size but I would like to think its T2.5?
Also would recommend cleaning your throttle body out first, or at least the AIS passage.

Anyway, with that removed, and cleaned, you may now proceed.

With the car running, and completly warmed up, make a big vacuum leak (removing the brake booster hoe works well)
Wait 1 minute or more, then with the car still running, disconnect the AIS connector
Shut the car off
Replace brake booster hose
Turn the throttle screw out approximately 1/2 turn clockwise, and try to start car.
- The goal is to get the car to start and idle, high or low, but run without throttle input from you. If it doesn't run right away, turn the screw out a little more until you can get it started and running. It will not idle at the correct speed, its ok at this time.
After the car is running by itself, turn the screw on the throttle body in or out until the correct idle is achieved (on a turbo, factory idle is 8-900 rpms)
Then shut the car back off.
Reconnect the AIS motor connector.
Restart car

Car should rev up, then drop idle to what you just set it at. This procedure only works if your car is in correct running condition, with no vacuum leaks or other issues.