oil went to nothin twice should i be worried or could this be the gauge

[paduster]

the car has 106000 on it now and didn't hear a tapping and don't have a manual gauge to test right now. i do not think the oil pump is bad but not sure there was no noise change or taping at all. and it does it only when coming to a stop and idling as soon as i give it gas it goes up and will stay up. thought or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. i was going to buy a motor soon anyways i wanted one for a non egr setup but was going to buy the 10:1 short block first but was thinking why not get the good motor first?

also for got when i did the 5 speed swap i broke the oil sender and there is a brand new one on there

[shadow88]

With a new sending unit, the only real way to tell is with a mechanical gauge. After you checked the level and condition and corrected as needed.

[paduster]

level is good and i just changes it at 104500 i got the car with 100000 on it but tranny was bad and did 5 speed swap and dd it since nothin happened till this

[turbovanman²]

You can't really do anything except guess without a gauge, they are cheap, go get one and install it, then you can see if you need to be worried or not.

[paduster]

well i have found one but it has rained all day and and looks like its going to rain again so i will install it tomarrow i might take bros car tomarrow to work

[Ondonti]

Up the idle speed a bit for now. I have a feeling that your oil pump is not building enough pressure at low idle rpms (if your guage is correct).
Bansheenut had a car that was doing that, I would warn him, and he would blame the sender. It was the pump and he lost the motor.

When the same thing happened to me, my mechanical guage had just broken so I couldn't tell what the pressure was (zero was no longer zero). Spun bearing after a hard pull :(

[paduster]

well yesterday it didnt do it again but it always did turn the check gauges light on when idling . so i up the idle this morning so i dont have it come on anymore but still didnt leave the gauge on it cause with the stock disconected it leaves the check gauges light on so after i took it for a ride and it didntdo it and the annoyed me enough to change it back for now i am going to buy a gauge pod to put a normal gauge in it with a tee to keep the stock sensor working and a good gauge now anyone got a preference electrical gauge or mechanical cause i was looking at prosport but they dont have a mechanical one that i can find before going to work.(thanks joe for getting them i like how they look)

[Ondonti]

Might be late in the night but that story doesn't make complete sense to me about disconnecting, guauges, etc.
I have some sorta autometer that I got for free and its fine. Last one, sunpro, failed and cost me a motor.

[Sundance 6g72]

.(thanks joe for getting them i like how they look)

i realllllly like their gauges but i worry that my wideband kit has quality problems. so far, 2 controllers have gone down on me and needed warranty. both were replaced due to being defective.

not sure what caused it the second time (first time was my bad.)

the second one was just working and then crapped out the following morning (same day my motor started knocking, go figure)

i would go for the oil pressure unit with the electronic sending unit though.. makes install worlds easier.

[RoadWarrior222]

I should probably get around to checking mine, it's been on zero for about 60,000 miles...

[paduster]

well with my stock sender off it turn on the check gauges light on since the gauge wasnt working so i had to put the stock sender back on will get a tee to put both in.

i am going to get the innovatice wideband when i do it

[Ondonti]

So what was your oil pressure with the other gauge?

[paduster]

when idling was around 28 to 32 up to 70 at speed but didnt leave on there. and now it is doing it more at went down to nothing allot this day on the way home from work

[Ondonti]

So the OEM drops down to nothing. Wondering how your oil pressure is when everything is warmed up. Not sure in what way OEM senders tend to fail. on and off again electrical problems are the worst.

[paduster]

i am buying a gauge pod and tee so i can run both so i dont have a light on in the dash and we will see

well last night i was running it at idle out outside checking a noise i heard and was watching the oil go to nothing i left it there and open the oil cap and oil was lil dry i gave it a lil gas and it sprayed oil very lil i think i have a bad oil pump cause i did that to my oil duster and it sprayed at idle. so that makes me worry i think i a going to do an oil change today and put so heavier oil in to get that pressure up and start looking for another motor

[Ondonti]

Good call on the thicker oil. 20-50 at least if you are going to drive the car (which I would not suggest). Keep the idle speed up. Over 1000. When the gaps on the gears get big, that pump can't move much past what leaks back. I have myself paranoid about my OEM oil gauge now :P been looking a bit low. Maybe I am just used to my idle being crazy high and now that I fixed my AIS problems the low gauge freaks me out :P

Junkyard oil pump, low miles, might be a good idea. I only had a new pump once, Toga for my built motor. I hate the price of pumps. Whole motor gets you extra parts and a pump. Rebuild kits are expensive and they can't repair a bad case, if its the case that is worn.

[paduster]

well i want a motor to get rid of the egr too but i as am getting that 10:1 short block out of the pick a part near me to get that 10:1 and put that motor together with the other non egr setup or who knows i am not to worried about it now i willfigure it out i just am watching itmore closely now and will make sure iget the oil up all the time and if it doesnt come back shut it off and get the new motor

side question has anone looked for jdm 12 valve 6g72 i was buying a trans for bros gsx eclipe and came across one but it has the mitsu intake on it and exhust what is your thoughts on this motor would be 815 shipped to your door

http://www.jdmenginezone.com/engine-details/mitsubishi/dodge-stratus-daytona-6g72-sohc-91_95.html

its claiming 160 hp and 183 ft/lb of toque
(http://www.jdmenginezone.com/engine-details/mitsubishi/dodge-stratus-daytona-6g72-sohc-91_95.html)

[Sundance 6g72]

to expensive. the intake and exhaust wont work and itl make less power.



why not just remove the egr .... if its cel your worried about, megasquirt it. you mine as well get used to it now rather than later when your knee deep in the project

[paduster]

no its not the cel light i am worried about i was just getting the non egr stuff intake and since i saw how u made you exhaust rear log i think i will make mine. and the reason i wouldn't mind buying that motor is it would have 30000 to 40000 miles on it and i think it should have the high comp and maybe better cams. i talked to the guy and he wasn't sure and was going to look into it for me and said if he gets one apart he will take some pics for me me. but who knows. i would rather have a normal Chrysler block its just an option.

---------- Post added at 11:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:27 AM ----------


why not just remove the egr .... if its cel your worried about, megasquirt it. you mine as well get used to it now rather than later when your knee deep in the projectone day soon

[Sundance 6g72]

if it came out of a 3000gt, it wont have high compression

another thing to note is the ring gaps will not be what you want for boost.


I dont think it would be a good idea because you pay over twice as much for a lower millage block that you cant use the intake and exhaust out of and it will need new rings anyways if you want to go big with the turbo. You would have a low millage on the bearings. Another thing to think about is reving that high with the stock oil pump. Rumor says that they like to fall appart at such high rpm BUT another rumor says it was a bad batch of pumps that do that. So worse case, you have to replace the pump with one with billet gears or whatever 3000gt guys use.

To much will have to go to warrent paying that much imo.

[paduster]

well i know jdm stuff is normally built stronger than usdm i have seen both of the same and the jdm always was stronger but not sure with these motors i figured the jdm 3000gts would get the10:1 and who knows what else. my friend bought Honda b16a for a 87 to 91 civic and it was stronger then the one that was in a fiends delsol so i was hoping they got something better since the intakes and exhausts look the same as usdm

---------- Post added at 01:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:10 PM ----------

and i dont think i will have the money for this anytime soon anyways so more a quest to find out specifics on it to find out if it is worth it


and you can always regap the rings to make good for boost

[Sundance 6g72]

i dont know what you mean by stronger? everything should be the same besides the intake, exhaust and ecu.

[RoadWarrior222]

He means they sprinkle it with magic JDM dust :D

[paduster]

He means they sprinkle it with magic JDM dust :Dlol sorry i just had good luck going from the same motor usdm to jdm and it was defiantly better. but i did get the first one and it had 50 psi of compression across all cylinders. sent it back and got a perfect engine and it took everything we throw at it for 5 years and still going strong even nitrous at one point. really i am going off other motors i have seen before that came from over there they defiantly are better.

and i honestly think its because they have less emissions restriction than we do

but please dont bash me because i think they are worth it but it is just an opinion i dont think everyone will have the same just looking for good info or specs

[RoadWarrior222]

Ah right, yeah, USED JDM motors may have had a higher sulphur gas, and higher zinc oil diet, and have done relatively little miles before the cars get scrapped for other reasons. So 60,000 miler from Japan might be in better shape than a 60,000 miler from here.

[Sundance 6g72]

but for your goals, you wouldnt probebly be rebuilding the motor anyways... things that are not wear parts should be identical.

[turbovanman²]

This thread is so confusing, :confused:

So did you actually get a cheap mechanical oil pressure gauge and install it?

[paduster]

yes i did and it did have oil pressure while i had it on there took it back off cause i didnt have a tee to run both as that would have the check gauges light on cause the gauge was at 0. now i am buying the tee and a gauge i want to leave in the car wednesday if money allows.

[paduster]

Ok so I FINALLY got around to installing the oil pressure gauge and I am worried now when it is warm and the fan is kicking on sitting in driveway it is at 8 to 10 psi. But at that point I didn't think to much of it but I just drove home 25 miles and at stop lights and when I pulled in the gauge was on 0. So I have a problem do I buy a new pump or do I get one out the junkyard

[Sundance 6g72]

junkyard one is fine but you need to make sure its tolerances/clearances are correct. i have no idea how to do that. i think the Mitsubishi guide goes into detail about it

i think this is the correct link, otherwise you can check for it on 3si.org
http://www.filestube.com/sponsored_go.html?id=22&q=6G72%20Engine%20Service%20Manual.pdf

I have it on my laptop but i cant use that right now..

you mine as well pull your pump and see how it looks before jumping into a new one. hopefully something is obviously wrong.

[paduster]

well at 0 psi after a drive i am not even sure i want to use the block in a daily driver so i think i am just going to buy a junkyard running motor and rebuild it with the parts i have been collecting lol

[Ondonti]

It might still be good. Just might have a little bearing wear.
100k is early to change the oil pump since its a 120k mile service item. I would put 20w50 in it for now and see if that changes your oil pressure when it warms up. I hurt the Duster with a bad oil pump in 2010 and I was so hacker cheap that I just polished the crankshaft and threw in the thickest OEM junk bearing pair I had. I did swap out the rod that spun with another used rod. (resizing cheap but would take time that I didn't have).