raced wrx again, improved but engine gets HOT! [Archive]

Sundance 6g72

02-19-2012, 02:38 AM

so ill start by saying that my way to laggy turbo that shouldnt be laggy pulled me past the wrx that usually beats me by a little bit

3rd gear slowely builds 8-9psi (i mean slowely, its weird. im going to figre that out when the open dump is installed)

4th should have did like 10 but i wasnt abel to log (again!)

anyways, i pulled past him twice while in 4th and was keeping with him neck and neck before then. I know for a fact if i had my 8psi before 4500rpms (maybe like 3500 for once!) that i would be past him faster than i am. we have both runs on video but i have to get them from my friend.

ANYWAYS. we did a log on the way home. 2nd - 4th and the motor gets hot. at one pount coolant temp got to 290ish. I either A) boiled the coolant and caused it to push past the cap or B) have bad headgaskets again and forced coolant out the cap

im going with A because my reserve isnt full like it used to be when i pushed coolant out all over due to bad headgaskets. this is the first time its happend too.. not anything new either just 10-11psi max. ive pushed the car harder than this before. tomorrow ill know how much coolant i actually lost. the gauge on my cluster has movement to it while cruising but not ALOT like it used to with bad headgaskets while N/A. it just swings a little bit and very slowely. \

im wondering if there is a easy junkyard swap that would be better for the car. i guess ill go aftermarket if i have too. Im wondering what Brent's junkyard ran for cooling...

good turnout tonight. usually no cars come around here

some bmw setup for autox, golf turbo, wrx @ 19-20psi (one i ran with) and some other wrx that needs a tune bad and runs like crap (from what i hear), my car, some k20 civic, and my buddies 2.4 neon turbo but he had to leave early so didnt run him. there was also a silver wrx that moved pretty damn good.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/430312_10150680114163899_534573898_11004696_153066 5557_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/424193_10150680113793899_534573898_11004694_667110 680_n.jpg

turbovanman²

02-19-2012, 03:09 AM

Nice.

What size is your turbo again? What exhaust?

Ondonti

02-19-2012, 04:27 AM

For me, when coolant splatters out the overflow side dump, its the headgasket. I never got around to logging long racing runs like that. Never seen a hot OEM gauge when the motor was happy. Our radiators are quite large compared to the T1 and TII guys and they don't seem to have problems. Do you have a super thin aftermarket one?

I think Ford 5.0's have similar endtanks but not sure they would help unless you went for a pricey aluminum one. I have ruined a few radiators and its usually from myself physically damaging it.
You have said you have been throwing lots of timing at it. Thats how you push coolant. Better to push coolant then to hurt a piston. I had a bunch of fun pushing coolant, put steel rings in the headgasket, then the pistons broke. Should have toned things down.

What is your T stat? What % of coolant? I always ran 100% water and sometimes water wetter. Boils over very easily on 100% water if you stop moving and your fan is off but cools better.

TainterRacing

02-19-2012, 10:05 AM

It does sound like a headgasket is leaking. Having it not tuned right will add alot of heat as well. Did you every re Tq the head gasket after you put it on. I know they say its not neeedd but I would still do It might just be the turn making it hot. At WOT I would try to run it like 12:1 and see if that cools it off at all and pull alot of timming just to see if it makes any change in the temps at all.

Sundance 6g72

02-19-2012, 10:32 AM

Nice.

What size is your turbo again? What exhaust?

no idea man

http://www.thedsmgraveyard.com/product_p/cxrtrb-t3t4-v.htm

2.5inch downpipe with 3inch open exhaust. i dont think its the cause for the laggyness. lets just say im scared to do a boost leak test :D

For me, when coolant splatters out the overflow side dump, its the headgasket. I never got around to logging long racing runs like that. Never seen a hot OEM gauge when the motor was happy. Our radiators are quite large compared to the T1 and TII guys and they don't seem to have problems. Do you have a super thin aftermarket one?

I think Ford 5.0's have similar endtanks but not sure they would help unless you went for a pricey aluminum one. I have ruined a few radiators and its usually from myself physically damaging it.
You have said you have been throwing lots of timing at it. Thats how you push coolant. Better to push coolant then to hurt a piston. I had a bunch of fun pushing coolant, put steel rings in the headgasket, then the pistons broke. Should have toned things down.

What is your T stat? What % of coolant? I always ran 100% water and sometimes water wetter. Boils over very easily on 100% water if you stop moving and your fan is off but cools better.

its the stock radiator with the fan running 100% of the time!

idk my mix.. it should be close to 50/50 but either way 290 seems hot to me.

before with bad headgaskets i would be boosting and then pop the hood. the reserve would be 100% full with coolant EVERYWHERE. Now its just spurting past the cap and its the first time its done that to my knowledge with these new headgaskets.

i did add timing to it but the max it will see at 8psi would be 33* iirc. dr shred on the other site runs 10-12psi and hes on the stock dizzy retarded 2* im pretty sure. so whats that? 36* at 10psi? more than im running.

It does sound like a headgasket is leaking. Having it not tuned right will add alot of heat as well. Did you every re Tq the head gasket after you put it on. I know they say its not neeedd but I would still do It might just be the turn making it hot. At WOT I would try to run it like 12:1 and see if that cools it off at all and pull alot of timming just to see if it makes any change in the temps at all.

i did not re tq.... i know i should have. can only help right? ill try that before running boost again. I also still have to check how much i actually lost.

the tune is pretty rich but it did hit 13.0:1 a couple times... not for long but i did see it flash on the WB.

TainterRacing

02-19-2012, 11:44 AM

Do you know what your intake temps are under boost?

Sundance 6g72

02-19-2012, 12:28 PM

max of 55* f AFTER the fact

sense my passenger knocked the usb out of the laptop, it didnt log the race. when we were done i did a 2nd - 4th pull WOT until 120. max intake temp was 55f.

i just checked out my reserve.. it wasnt full. it was about half way.. i think it had a little more water than i had put in it in the first place

the radiator took 17oz water bottle and a third of a gallon coolant. ouch.

i have a buddy coming to drop off a TQ wrench but im afraid i wont be able to check until after school on monday at noon. Is it okay to drive the car do you guys think?

also, to re TQ.. do i check if each is at 95 and then back them off 1/4 turn and then back to 95? doing them one at a time?

also, should the motor be warmed up to temp before i re tq them?

---------- Post added at 11:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:27 AM ----------

i really worried that these new headgaskets are spent.

ill post a picture of my timing table in a min

Sundance 6g72

02-19-2012, 12:40 PM

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/424286_10150681049468899_534573898_11009339_583289 394_n.jpg

i guess i can pull a degree or two just to be safe but i dont think thats the problem unless im missing something about the guys who ran oem timing with boost.

Brent, i know you popped motors with OE timing but you were always running twice as much boost just about.

that table is aggressive compared to what i was running before.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/417844_10150648061793899_534573898_10915117_990901 405_n.jpg

this is what i was planning on running.. and i think i will go this route

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/408809_10150650924558899_534573898_10923100_624386 671_n.jpg

ignore out of boost timing

so i was running 5 more degreese on ave. more than my old table that didnt push coolant.

TainterRacing

02-19-2012, 12:46 PM

The way I did mine was just make sure they where all at the right TQ I had 2 on each head that were a bit lose the middle cly ones. I have in the past also done like you said. I would do it warm as well.

Sundance 6g72

02-19-2012, 12:53 PM

the first time around went like this (ill explain in baby terms so we are all on the same track)

* i followed the manuals pattern for tightening the heads *

TQ all to 35, then 50, 70, 80, 90 (i didnt do 95 like stated above ^ ^ , i followed brent's picture)

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/408843_10150568415943899_534573898_10652694_241485 56_n.jpg

after following that pattern. i would go in order again. I would loosen the first bolt by 1/4 turn. then Tq to 90. did this for the rest of the bolts in that order.

ill warm the car up and do the 1/4 turn and re tq to 90 thing when i get a chance (most likely tomorrow around noon) but i need the car to get to school. i hope thats safe to drive

pulled a few degrees across the board.

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/426516_10150681082553899_534573898_11009542_138765 5764_n.jpg

Sundance 6g72

02-19-2012, 01:41 PM

car filled with coolant, starts up nicely and idles great. Warms up and sits at 180 - 190 like usual. fan is going 100% of the time though. i get nice heat and somewhat bled the system. i made sure to fill the reserve the "min" mark so i have something to go off of if this happens again

new timing map is loaded and ill have a TQ wrench later today. depending on if plans with the girl go through or not wil determine if i check the heads tonight or tomorrow after class.

Force Fed Mopar

02-19-2012, 02:01 PM

You really need to fix your exhaust up properly, get rid of that capped-off rear manifold. If you haven't already, haven't kept up with your project lately.

Sundance 6g72

02-19-2012, 02:20 PM

while i agree, how would that be relivent to this issue?

also, what would you think about an open dump wastegate being on the cap that is blocked the rear manifold? im going to try this as it would be supppper easy. plans for a custom rear manifold can happen but not anytime soon.

Force Fed Mopar

02-19-2012, 03:08 PM

I think it'd be a horrible idea. The exhaust from there is already having a hard time getting to the turbo, put a dump there and it will want to go to the turbo even less. I think it has a whole lot to do with your slow spool and your temp issues. If the exhaust doesn't flow well to the turbo, it won't spool right. It will also create back pressure, which could be part of the overheating issue.

Have you check into using Montero or Mighty Max/D50 manifolds? Might be the cheaper/easier way to go for manifolds.

TainterRacing

02-19-2012, 03:37 PM

I dont think it'd be a horrible idea. Is it going to help with spool up no. But when its open you want the air to go out the wastegate if its open you dont want more pressure on the turbo. Back pressure will make alot of heat yes. But putting a ex dump on it will not have much back pressure at all. I would slap it on there and see what it does. If it doesn't work, don't worry you did not mess with the manifold and would be ez to remove.

montero manifolds have the exhaust exiting about 45* angle towards the transmission.

Sundance 6g72

02-19-2012, 04:24 PM

my biggest thing is wondering how the dump is going to be able to stay open just enough to limit boost and not work TOO GOOD and keep boost to low. but lets not talk about that

if you think my rear manifold causes temp issues due to backpressure, i cant disagree with you.

TainterRacing

02-19-2012, 04:46 PM

What spring does the wastegate have?

Sundance 6g72

02-19-2012, 04:49 PM

8psi, i plan on using my mbc to get 11-12

Ondonti

02-20-2012, 12:25 AM

Your wastegate idea will work fine. The turbo won't get any less laggy but you will have much better boost control which will give you safety and less worries. Spooling sooner is cool but it will actually make it easier to pop your motor. If you have boost creep, you will never have a problem keeping your turbo spooled. Wastegates only release enough exhaust to maintain boost level.

I would try a switch on your radiator fan. I don't run a fan unless I come to a stop (instead of running it all the time, thats why it likes to boil over with 100% coolant when I come to a stop and don't turn the fan on soon enough.

Make a run without radiator fan on. I don't even use a fan when driving around 25mph side streets.
I would not run leaner, I would not retard timing if its safe. No reason to be overheating from proper timing. I don't really know what headgaskets you used. If the motor is happy then i would look at your cooling system and also the aerodynamics of your front end. Try an air damn under the radiator so air had to go through the radiator instead of under. That fan being on makes that worse.

I only run the switch on radiator fan because I dont have my ms box setup to run a fan relay.

Sundance 6g72

02-20-2012, 12:32 AM

ill try undoing the fan

the fmic is in the way. the only direct shot of air is from where the grill used to be (i didnt bother putting the grill back on)

the wastegate being where im going to put it will relave lots of backpressure once i hit full boost. my overheating problem happens well into the pull so if thats directly effecting things, i should notice a difference.

i never had this problem without boost...

i need to not be lazy and just hook the fan up to my fidle output that im not using. its already ran to my relay box and ready to be wired into a relay that could run my fan. have it kick on at 200*f (i rarely hit 200 unless im sitting still. likes to cruise at 185-190)

the fan probably is a restriction while the car is moving. Im just glad (and mayb ei shouldnt be) that the radiator *shouldnt* be my problem. though id rather upgrade a radiator than pop the motor

the headgaskets i used should be the same as the ones you ran on the spirit. i assumed they were MLS because they felt like it? ive never held a real mls so i had no reason to think otherwise.

Mdoe8

02-20-2012, 03:28 AM

Man i wish you were closer to me! I've had numerous similar issues to this in the past.

Did i miss it? What were your afr's at?

Ondonti

02-20-2012, 03:28 AM

MLS is just multiple layers of steel. You can see the layers and pull them apart. I did not use that recently. I don't know about off brands of MLS gaskets.

2nd through 4th runs are hard on the cooling and the intercooler. Things get heatsoaked. The scary thing about cutting the fan is that you need to keep moving or you overheat. I think you can go higher then 210 with the fan though. I would be interested to see a pull with no fan and you compare the logs. I would not worry about frontal area exposed to "clean" air. The front end brings in much more air then the radiator can pass. That is why they put all those aero bits on circuit racers because so much air goes where you don't want it. Stock airdam below the radiator will help a lot. That will prevent air from going under and create a larger pressure differential between the front and rear of the radiator (helping more air move through, like boosting your engine). A fan will also limit things once you start moving at a good pace. 1st gear you never put much load on the motor and you are in that gear such a short time that the fan never does you any good. So if you are over 100mph, your radiator is still acting like its getting 15mph worth of air (if you had no fan) but you are in 4th gear an sitting in 4th gear for a LONG time in FULL boost.

I will go look at some datalogs to see what my coolant temps were with no fan. 180 degree stat right? That gives you more buffer and more time before heatsoak. Means your heater sucks.

Mdoe8

02-20-2012, 03:36 AM

Show us a picture of your fan setup. I've had a lot of experience with this in the ls1 rx7 scene, it's pretty easy to have an improper setup. Unless it's stock...then there are a couple of other things to look at.

Air bubbles in cooling system?
AFR?
Water pump?
How thick is the intercooler?
How thick is the stock radiator?
What are the cfm's of the stock fan? (if you need a different electric fan, the taurus fan is amazing)

Ondonti

02-20-2012, 03:55 AM

There is just no need for a fan above 15-20mph. Anything above that and it hurts cooling.

Here is the proof. This is with a 195 degree thermostat, and not a bit of temp creep from 1st through 4th gears. No fan. Min temp in the datalog was 197, max was 202. It got to 202 in 3rd gear and then flatlined. This is with more power then is putting you to 290 degree temps. You can see that the faster I go, the better the radiator seems to work even though there is a lot more load on the engine. Road racers are constantly hitting high loads at lower speeds for longer periods. As I said, our radiators are much larger then the 2.2/2.5 turbo radiators and they never have problems.

Remember the timing numbers are missing 12 degrees and this is E85 so it does run cooler. Still, you can see I am not having a problem. This was a hot summer day btw, not a winter night.

http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh426/ondonti/Megasquirt/Datalogs/1st-4thDatalogSnapshot-1.jpg

Force Fed Mopar

02-20-2012, 08:31 AM

Now that I think about it, you're right, putting the wastegate there won't hurt the spool because as you say, it won't open til full boost anyhow.

Sundance 6g72

02-20-2012, 09:03 AM

and once it does open, that backpressure is gone

the fan/ rad setup is stock

intercooler is 3inches

coolant is clean, no bubbles and now gunky oil like before when the head gaskets were toast.

afr was jumping around, hit a leanest of 13.1 iirc! this is bad i know but it did spend alot of time in the 10s when i was in 4th gear IIRC.

more info later, its time to go to school.

Sundance 6g72

02-20-2012, 09:43 AM

okay i found time sooo ill make a proper response

Show us a picture of your fan setup. I've had a lot of experience with this in the ls1 rx7 scene, it's pretty easy to have an improper setup. Unless it's stock...then there are a couple of other things to look at.

Air bubbles in cooling system?
AFR?
Water pump?
How thick is the intercooler?
How thick is the stock radiator?
What are the cfm's of the stock fan? (if you need a different electric fan, the taurus fan is amazing)

no bubbles. coolant looks good when it comes out. with bad headgaskets it was gross looking after the first startup with fresh coolant

AFR spiked 13.1:1 iirc but it was only for a moment. when deep in 4th i reembmer being in the 10 AFR area.

Stock oem type waterpump. this pump gave me the same temps as the previous one (while N/A)

intercooler is 3inch thick.

stock radiator, not sure how thick. stock fan.

not sure of the cfm but it does GREAT when sitting still. it does what the factory intended and does it well

There is just no need for a fan above 15-20mph. Anything above that and it hurts cooling.

Here is the proof. This is with a 195 degree thermostat, and not a bit of temp creep from 1st through 4th gears. No fan. Min temp in the datalog was 197, max was 202. It got to 202 in 3rd gear and then flatlined. This is with more power then is putting you to 290 degree temps. You can see that the faster I go, the better the radiator seems to work even though there is a lot more load on the engine. Road racers are constantly hitting high loads at lower speeds for longer periods. As I said, our radiators are much larger then the 2.2/2.5 turbo radiators and they never have problems.

Remember the timing numbers are missing 12 degrees and this is E85 so it does run cooler. Still, you can see I am not having a problem. This was a hot summer day btw, not a winter night.

i remember 220-230 when N/A with the fan running 100% of the time. This was in the warm summer night.. and yes, im doing this in the cold with 55 intake temp at full boost!

my t stat is stock and i removed that air damn from the front bumper... i can try and find one to re install. i dont remember why i did it (forever ago) does it really help that much?

---------- Post added at 08:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:41 AM ----------

the bottom of the intercooler is about level with the radiator.. if not it sits a little lower

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/s720x720/395314_10150579685033899_534573898_10698094_190168 867_n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/381637_10150579685803899_534573898_10698096_100476 7641_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/392057_10150579680818899_534573898_10698079_133897 3315_n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/405419_10150579679373899_534573898_10698068_184753 8030_n.jpg

Mdoe8

02-20-2012, 01:47 PM

Hmmm, i don't think it's your cooling setup. Aside from adding some possible shrouding, it looks perfect as is.

Sundance 6g72

02-20-2012, 09:28 PM

idk guys.. i have a feeling i really F***ed up this time. something is telling me headgaskets but its not acting like it was when i really did have blown headgaskets

i checked the front head tq. it was good. didnt bother with the rear head :/

the block is scarying me... i hear a tick. i dont want to say its knock buttttt im worried. it dosnt seem to be rpm dependent but i cant tell if its in the head or block. its not lifter tick, thats for sure.

nmw2006

02-20-2012, 09:34 PM

Lots of things can make "ticking" noises...I wouldn't jump to bad conclusions just yet. A compression or leakdown test would be in order to verify the status of the headgaskets. Don't give up hope that easily :thumb:

Sundance 6g72

02-20-2012, 10:08 PM

not giving up, not by a long shot

i can drive the car like i stole it and it seems to be fine. havnt topped it out again in 4th. it dosnt seem to get worse.. dosnt seem to push coolant into the overflow. i could do a leakkdown test but im not sure how thats different from a compression test. maybe someone could enlighten me.

my wideband controller crapped out. its the second one to go bad. first one i sent in and switched to my friends. when it got back, i gave my friend the fixed one and kept his. now his went out... weird. popped the new one in and my gauge works again...

the ticking is best described as sounding like a desil but a little softer. reminds me of my friends jetta. it goes away (or seems to) when cruising but when under light accell then you notice it.

nmw2006

02-20-2012, 10:23 PM

Leakdown test is basically the opposite of a compression test. You pressurize the cylinder with air then check the guage after a specified amount of time. Can be much more helpful in determining why you happen to have low compression. Much more accurate also.

LM1 Wideband controller? My first one died after a few weeks but Innovate replaced it no questions asked.

That noise doesn't sound good, but the only motors I've ever heard knock were a 2.0 in a Neon and the 350 that i replaced in a Suburban a while back. Unfortunately those both sounded completely different, so I can't really help you on that one.

Sundance 6g72

02-20-2012, 10:25 PM

ive heard a 420a knock. it was much louder and increased with rpm and was heard during cruise

i dont like the noise either but the car drives fine...

wideband is a prosport. thinking i should have went with aem.

Mdoe8

02-20-2012, 11:10 PM

+1 for compression and leakdown.

Maybe a video of the sound?

Sundance 6g72

02-21-2012, 02:04 AM

im scared to do leakdown :(

lol

ill try and find time tomorrow to get a video of both. not sure if the video will capture the sound from the cabin or under the hood.

i cant think of a noise that the block would make that only is noticable under slight load (not cruise) and during heavy accell you dont hear it but the exhaust is kinda loud soooooo

Ondonti

02-21-2012, 07:56 AM

Take the oil filter off and cut it open to inspect the pleats for bearing material. Easy test.

You need to understand how your cooling system works and how aerodynamics affect that. When air has the choice of where to go, it will go in the path of least resistance. You remove the air dam (key word, DAM, what does a DAM do?) and air wants to go under the radiator, under the car. Put the air dam back, air has a harder time going under the radiator and car and you build higher pressure differential in front of the radiator so more air is forced through the radiator instead of taking the easy route.

Plus, that fan does the opposite. If you are forcing air through the radiator faster then your fan can pull air, then your radiator fan is actually working to prevent air from traveling because the fan only wants to spin a certain RPM.

You may have something wrong with the engine but its possible overheating can damage your headgaskets, and that would be the fault of your cooling system. Overheating is not always caused by bad heagaskets but bad headgaskets tend to happen with serious overheats.

Fix the fan issue, take apart the oil fiter, do a leakdown. Nothing too scary. My car is down over much stupider things but at least I can blame boost for blowing my intake manifold.

I pulled apart the Duster's bottom end in Bansheenut's driveway once and drove it home the next day after finding no problems. It was a darn exhaust leak in that instance.

Sundance 6g72

02-21-2012, 10:21 AM

todays to do list

go to school

when leaving school, stop at my old high school and weld up my WG

when leaving school stop at junkyard. hagle with owner for cheep motor and then go pull an air dam

i dont think my noise is an exhuast leak. also, if i find the block is damaged.. not much i can do but park the car or just keep driving. my check thats coming tomorrow i wont even need so ill use that to pick up a new motor and try and get something done with that. port the lower intake. refresh the heads and actaully give them new seals this time ;)

maybe 3.3 springs and ls stuff.

anyways, once i get home, ill wire my fan to my fidle output in my relay box. this will make controlling the fan easy.

Sundance 6g72

02-21-2012, 02:08 PM

grabbed a air dam. or what i guess could be considered an air dam. its the same piece that i pulled of my car 2 years ago for no reason that i can remember. who knows

it bolts down here.. not sure how it will fit correctly after the fmic install

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/377947_10150579681513899_534573898_10698082_133481 6688_n.jpg

should be alright now that i look at it. ill get it on tomorrow

got a good deal for a motor too. hope to pull it later this week if i can find the time. i have this next week off of school so that makes it perfect. might actually pull it tomorrow as i work at 12 instead of 5.

Ondonti

02-21-2012, 05:13 PM

Imperfect fit is better then nothing. Wish there was a yard here in Seattle where i could haggle. I loved making up my own offers for parts!

Irocelectric93

02-21-2012, 05:33 PM

Joe you def want that air dam. I can also say that I will fit on there even with your intercooler setup. No big deal there. As for WB issues....get an Innovate and call it a day. I'm not a fan of AEM stuff to be honest ...not really a bad product but i just like Innovates stuff better personally. My Mtx-l in my SRT-4 is great. I know brent had problems with his but i got lucky and had zero. My LC-1 is super awesome too. Both are good choices IMO.

Sundance 6g72

02-21-2012, 06:02 PM

Brent. im getting to be really cool with the owners of the yard. the older guy loves me and gives me things for dirt cheep. i got his son today, hes a bit harder to deal with but he did give me a good deal. $125 if i pull it my self! sadly i dont really have enough cash to support buying this motor but im going to do it anyways because i need something to keep my self ocupied.

AEM worked well in my buddies neon. I LOVEEE the way prosports look and how nice they are on the phone. i have somewhat of a relationship with their tech rep, Kyle. I just ask for him and he gets me squared away. this is good and bad. i would rather not have to ever talk to anyones CS.

the air dam will go on when i feel like it. im not giving the car any hell really.

this is a video (also going to be posted in my build thread) that shows the open dump installed. in the beginning i try to capture the knock noise too. earlier i noticed that it makes the noise and is RPM dependent until i get to 30mph in 3rd.. light load the whole time. its weird. i wanna say its in the head but who knows. it dosnt do it at idle or cruise EVER as far as i can tell. just light acceleration.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/421953_10150687068003899_534573898_11030526_125993 0101_n.jpg

been a while sense ive used a cutting torch. kinda turned into a hack job. im much better at welding and building than i am at cutting and destroying.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/421438_10150687068093899_534573898_11030527_204158 3102_n.jpg

ready to tack it up. didnt really do much prep work as i dont really care

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/408960_10150687068228899_534573898_11030528_135083 4439_n.jpg

welded it on

bolted it on

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/395440_10150687068318899_534573898_11030529_179875 9676_n.jpg

welded on outside and inside. looks like ---- from picture. i know enough o know that the welds are solid though

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/409526_10150687068468899_534573898_11030530_100800 2951_n.jpg

HOLY TIGHT FIT BATMAN

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/425845_10150687068588899_534573898_11030532_139357 9701_n.jpg

getto vac lines. i was at school and didnt have a long enough line.. do what you gotta do

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/424553_10150687068713899_534573898_11030534_650818 735_n.jpg

this video is to show the stupid knock/tick going on right now. i dont think its in the block. its rpm dependent until a certain rpm then it goes away. its not there during cruise or idle either. the weird popping when i first startout and dont shift is the car running way lean. no wideband means i cant fix that (long story about wideband. should have one back in within the next week)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FG5na2GhCco&feature=player_embedded

Sundance 6g72

02-21-2012, 07:48 PM

theory: while boosting, my catch can is hooked to the inlet of the turbo. the turbo sucked on the catch can so much that the can sucked on the valve covers enough to keep oil in the heads and starved the block of oil slightly..

also, the ticking in the video is different from my cache of coils that like to vibrate while i drive. lol

Force Fed Mopar

02-21-2012, 07:59 PM

Says video is private :(

Sundance 6g72

02-21-2012, 08:13 PM

yeah i know. guy on a local forum told me. its changed now

just read this

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/all-ford-techboard/505778-rod-knock.html

Sundance 6g72

02-21-2012, 08:35 PM

motor is spent spent

it got way to hot for to long, ripped a headgasket apart. It then leaked coolant into the oil and i didnt catch it in time. a day of driving allowed enough coolant to mix with the oil causing the oil to be all bad n ---- and must have ruined a bearing or two.

its also pretty low on oil. less than half of the dipstick registers oil.. reason for me thinking it has coolant in the oil is because it had some creamy looking stuff on the dipstick as well.

curious how i should go about this.. do i buy the new motor or just pull this one and rebuild it with the cash i have. i didnt plan on the motor being dead and not drivable. but now that i dont want to drive it i think i should just get the motor pulled, rebuild it and drop it back in. this saves me $125. not sure how far $125 goes but you know.

---------- Post added at 07:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:31 PM ----------

and now that i think about it. i need to go get a new motor because i dont like how this one is screwed up where the water pump bolts. awesome.

Force Fed Mopar

02-21-2012, 08:45 PM

Put another engine in w/o the turbo, then build the old one to handle it. I had a feeling the quick head gasket job you did wasn't gonna hold a turbo for long. Build the engine right, make a real exhaust manifold/header set for it, then put it back in and take your time tuning it. Forget about racing STi's and crap until you have it right. Otherwise you'll be doing this all over again.

Sundance 6g72

02-21-2012, 08:52 PM

i dont have an exhaust for N/A anymore. ill just put the turbo motor in with a proper rear manifold. itl take just as much time to build as it would to get a new downpipe made and welded into my exhaust.

the new motor will get the same headgaskets with the copper spray stuff. heads will be milled to ensure flatness. new bearings bla bla bla.

the turbo is not what killed this motor (assuming its dead) it was the heat that blew the headgaskets (they couldnt keep taking it.. sat. night is when they gave up) the bad headgaskets had enough driving time to ruin the oil and bam.