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Johnny
02-12-2012, 10:42 PM
Strut Brace.
Here is what I built today.. a strut brace. One that is strong!
Not one of those cheap aluminum ones that bend.
This one has stainless steel end plates.
I designed it, then had the end pieces laser cut. I then welded them up.
Then I made the center section out of DOM steel tubing with welded on threaded coupling ends.
Then added threaded rod ends and and stainless bolts.I hope to add this to my line of items to sell IF people are interested.

Now to see if it fits other applications with different intakes. And to see if
it fits without touching hoods.
It should fit the Shadow, Daytona, Spirit..all the k based cars.

GLHNSLHT2
02-12-2012, 11:11 PM
might have to move it around with a stock intake. Would be sweet if you could figure out how to tie it into the firewall :)

J&H Ryan
02-12-2012, 11:39 PM
Sort of want. Guessing the $ is going to be ~$150?

Johnny
02-13-2012, 12:00 AM
Not sure on the price yet, need to finalize costs, add things up.
Under $150 for sure.

5DIGITS
02-13-2012, 12:03 AM
Looks nice and clean!

4 l-bodies
02-13-2012, 01:34 AM
Johnny, here is a little feeback on the ones that were available for the P-body in the past (perhaps the fabrication shop that FM used?) They hit the bottom of the hood a lot. I had to modify one extensively along with the bottom of the hood before it would clear the hood and not hit while driving the vehicle. When I thought I had everything cleared, the hood would deflect enough in the hood hinge spring area to still touch and rattle. I guess my point is there is not as much room on the P-bodies as one would think. In case anyones wondering this is Nic Kuehn's 87 CSX.
Todd

turbovanmanČ
02-13-2012, 02:14 AM
Looks good, should work in a van too, if made long enough.

Johnny
02-13-2012, 09:17 AM
Johnny, here is a little feeback on the ones that were available for the P-body in the past (perhaps the fabrication shop that FM used?) They hit the bottom of the hood a lot. I had to modify one extensively along with the bottom of the hood before it would clear the hood and not hit while driving the vehicle. When I thought I had everything cleared, the hood would deflect enough in the hood hinge spring area to still touch and rattle. I guess my point is there is not as much room on the P-bodies as one would think. In case anyones wondering this is Nic Kuehn's 87 CSX.
Todd

Well, I have a CSX-T in my shop. And I have a mini van or two (3) so those are my next test subjects.

rbryant
02-13-2012, 12:22 PM
Looks good, should work in a van too, if made long enough.

It won't work on a van without modifications:


While the spring hats are the same on the van as the car they are rotated on the van. That means the holes have to be redrilled.
The Bar would have to be long enough for the van.


-Rich

Johnny
02-13-2012, 12:51 PM
I knew a longer bar would be needed.
I'll make one that will fit the vans, too...because "I" want one.


I tested the CSX-T this morning, plenty of room.

rbryant
02-13-2012, 12:59 PM
I knew a longer bar would be needed.
I'll make one that will fit the vans, too...because "I" want one.


I tested the CSX-T this morning, plenty of room.

I have CAD drawings (DXF format) of the caravan and kcar strut tower bolt angles that I had to make in order to do the BC camber plates. If they would help I can send them to you.

-Rich

Johnny
02-13-2012, 01:08 PM
Thank you, but have the k based ones set up already. Laser cut two sets. Modify future ones just a tad.

Thanks anyway though!!!!!

---------- Post added at 09:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:03 AM ----------

Any input on if I leave the stainless alone or coat it? Customers could paint it any color they wish.
IF coated, electroless nickel (looks chrome-ish)? Gold like a grade 8 bolt? Black powder coated?

turbovanmanČ
02-13-2012, 01:25 PM
It won't work on a van without modifications:


While the spring hats are the same on the van as the car they are rotated on the van. That means the holes have to be redrilled.
The Bar would have to be long enough for the van.


-Rich

I knew about the length, didn't have a car close by to check the mounting pattern. Good to know.

GLHNSLHT2
02-13-2012, 08:51 PM
Johnny, here is a little feeback on the ones that were available for the P-body in the past (perhaps the fabrication shop that FM used?) They hit the bottom of the hood a lot. I had to modify one extensively along with the bottom of the hood before it would clear the hood and not hit while driving the vehicle. When I thought I had everything cleared, the hood would deflect enough in the hood hinge spring area to still touch and rattle. I guess my point is there is not as much room on the P-bodies as one would think. In case anyones wondering this is Nic Kuehn's 87 CSX.
Todd

Todd have you tried one of those on any other cars? Is it a Pbody only rattle? I was thinking about getting one of those for my daytona.

iTurbo
02-14-2012, 09:14 AM
I would take one for sure. I'm am not impressed with the current vendor offering that is out there. They use a flimsy aluminum rod with brittle cast aluminum end plates that snap in half if you tighten them down without modifying them, and even then it's iffy; no thanks.

Would prefer wrinkle black powder coated here.

4 l-bodies
02-14-2012, 12:22 PM
Todd have you tried one of those on any other cars? Is it a Pbody only rattle? I was thinking about getting one of those for my daytona.
Jay,
No I haven't tried on other cars. Fitment on P-body was poor at best. Both the strut brace and the underside of hood had to be modified to make work without hitting.
Todd

Johnny
02-14-2012, 07:39 PM
Here is a couple photos of the test on the CSX-T.
Took it off the wagon, no adjustment, fit right on to the Shadow.
Added some Play-Doh to test clearance when I shut the hood.
Squished the doh but not enough to touch the bar. There is
about 3/16" of clay left, so there is clearance but not a lot.

Johnny
02-14-2012, 07:43 PM
Took the blank strut brace plate and sat it on top of the Mini Van strut area.
Fits perfect. No need to change it (other than the adjustment I was going to do anyway).
Only thing I will need to do to make it fit the mini van's is to weld on the uprights in a
different, more forward location. And a longer bar of course.

Shadowv4l
02-14-2012, 08:09 PM
Is there a "special" price for those who have orderd the older style from you in the past? I have a bar on each of my 3 cars. They work great, i could feel the difference right away after installing them. And the rear sway bar is sexy :) . Thank you so much for your hard work!

Johnny
02-14-2012, 08:11 PM
Older style?...I have never made strut braces before. (Except my for my own GLHS)
Anti-sway bars are different than this.

Shadowv4l
02-14-2012, 08:42 PM
wow, long day at work.... I guess i was thinking of the FWD strut bar, it looks almost identical to the one you made in the pic. srry for the confusion. But still, keep up the good work! :D

glhs727
02-15-2012, 12:08 AM
I would take one for sure. I'm am not impressed with the current vendor offering that is out there. They use a flimsy aluminum rod with brittle cast aluminum end plates that snap in half if you tighten them down without modifying them, and even then it's iffy; no thanks.

Would prefer wrinkle black powder coated here.

Not sure what you mean by current offering.... Here is a picture is the old style strut bars (bottom bar) made by Steve Anders and sold by FWD and TU at one time. Steve was sent overseas many times in the early 2000's and eventually the ability to be supplied in a timely fashion became an issue. We ended up making our own. I think we have been selling our own design for about the last 2-3 years (top bar). Ours are laser cut plates, steel bars, FK sperical rod ends. A little different than Johnny's design, and I can't speak to all appllications it can/will fit. We only have 2 bars left out of our last batch, then we plan to make a couple of small design changes for the next batch. I like our bar design, I also like Johnny's bar as well, so it will be nice to have alternatives, and if we don't have any of our own in stock, I would have no issue sending them to polybushings to buy one. I think both our designs (Johnny's and FWD) are great pieces! Keep up the good work!

GLHNSLHT2
02-15-2012, 12:12 AM
where are the pics?

iTurbo
02-15-2012, 12:51 AM
Ah yes the one I was referring to was the Anders strut tower bar (bottom in pic). I bought one from TU and one from FWDP a while ago, didn't know you went to a different design. To Cindy's credit, she replaced one of the plates that snapped in half on me at no charge. Still, the cast aluminum plate was a design flaw from the get go in my opinion. Maybe if our strut tower tops were perfectly flat it would be OK, but they aren't. I had to grind out some of the material on the inside diameter so it wouldn't hit the lip of the inner hole for the strut mount. You could also easily snap the mounting ears for the bar itself if you aren't careful when tightening them. Really hard to get the bolts in too, because they interfere with the plate mounting nuts.

4 l-bodies
02-15-2012, 01:06 AM
Here is a couple photos of the test on the CSX-T.
Took it off the wagon, no adjustment, fit right on to the Shadow.
Added some Play-Doh to test clearance when I shut the hood.
Squished the doh but not enough to touch the bar. There is
about 3/16" of clay left, so there is clearance but not a lot.
Okay do they fit a shadow with a 2 piece intake? IMO, your gonna need all that 3/16" clearance for them not to hit on the Shadow. Been down that road Johnny
BTW- I'm glad your testing these out on various vehicles. It absolutely slays me when people sell products they market and have never installed on vehicles there product claims to fit. Then when you complain/inquire it's too bad, so sad... Sucks to be you.

GLHNSLHT2
02-15-2012, 01:14 AM
looks like you need to update the image in your catalog then? http://www.fwdperformance.com/store/images/products/strutbar.jpg

tryingbe
02-15-2012, 01:20 AM
These bars clears the 2 piece intake in my Daytona and Omni. Not sure about Shadow.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/mikecombs66/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

glhs727
02-15-2012, 01:31 AM
looks like you need to update the image in your catalog then? http://www.fwdperformance.com/store/images/products/strutbar.jpg

Yes I do need to update the site. I also have about 150 more products to add on the site..... so much to do, so little time!

black86glhs
02-15-2012, 02:38 AM
Yes I do need to update the site. I also have about 150 more products to add on the site..... so much to do, so little time!Stop trolling the internet and get to work!!!!!



:D:p

Johnny
02-15-2012, 09:22 AM
Okay do they fit a shadow with a 2 piece intake?

Should but would now like to try it on a Daytona, Lancer etc...with a two piece.
I know a guy in Portland that would let me try it on his Shelby Lancer.


These bars clears the 2 piece intake in my Daytona and Omni. Not sure about Shadow.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/mikecombs66/...&_trksid=p3686 (http://www.ebay.com/sch/mikecombs66/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686)

Those are pretty! Aluminum is flexible. If you just want a nice looking piece and
inexpensive these are it!! And they do work to a point. Okay for easy street driving
and car shows.

If you want strong, people will want steel ones like I am making.
That is the reason I started to develop these. I have been asked and asked
over and over to do it by people and also by one of my venders.

rbryant
02-15-2012, 08:08 PM
These bars clears the 2 piece intake in my Daytona and Omni. Not sure about Shadow.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/mikecombs66/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

I still say those look goofy on an lbody because they are at an angle instead of being square with the towers.

It was a compromised way of making the two piece intake clear the bar and he purposely didn't mention it on his website. I actually thought that my towers/frame was bent or something when I first installed it because it looked so weird. All he had to do was provide different offsets on his rings to make it right and he wouldn't do it.

When I complained about it he refused to take it back so I don't recommend him or his bars.

It is good to see an alternative.

-Rich

iTurbo
02-15-2012, 08:15 PM
I asked that guy about that very issue on eBay and never got a response....so I never bought one.

rbryant
02-15-2012, 08:21 PM
I asked that guy about that very issue on eBay and never got a response....so I never bought one.

Worse yet if you look at this description from ebay:



"Never had a return or complaint in 6 years....read the feedbacks.."

That is a lie.

I complained, I asked for a return, and I was not allowed to return the new item.

All of this was when buying it directly from him so the complaint doesn't show on ebay.

BTW you can also see the offset in the picture now which is a good thing... IMO It is actually less obvious what is wrong when looking from the front it just seems weird and wrong...

In the ebay level of quality it is better to just buy a rear bar for a 1G neon and drill a single hole in your strut tower to make it fit the lbody than buy the mikecombs66 bar...

Knowing Johnny his bar will be night and day better than that.

-Rich

glhs727
02-16-2012, 12:48 AM
I thought the ebay bars were 1st gen neon bars with the holes redrilled. At least they look identical to the 1st gen bars that vibrant made.... I know they do not fit a shelby charger. One of my customers bought one a LONG time ago and it didn't work

tryingbe
02-16-2012, 01:07 AM
For the price I paid, I have no complaint.
Beside, I drive a ugly turbo dodge. So function > looks.

http://www.thelostartof.net/tryingbe/dodge/omniproject/hood1.jpg

rbryant
02-16-2012, 01:37 AM
I thought the ebay bars were 1st gen neon bars with the holes redrilled. At least they look identical to the 1st gen bars that vibrant made.... I know they do not fit a shelby charger. One of my customers bought one a LONG time ago and it didn't work

The mikecombs66 bars on ebay are made for the lbody. I am just lumping them into the same quality category as the $30 neon bar and noting that if you want a cheap bar that it is cheaper to get a Neon rear bar and make that work because it is shorter than the front bar and one out of two holes fit and the other ends up in a good place if you just drill one hole in each tower... People that have my camber plates can actually use a neon rear bar as a direct fit as long as it clears the engine.... Clearing the engine (intake manifold) on the lbody is the big problem.

Either way your bars or Johnny's will be far superior to the mikecombs66 ebay bar.

BTW:

It would be good if everyone just removed the hinges and rod ends from the bars.
They add cost and having a pivot point on a strut tower bar is a bad thing!

-Rich

Johnny
02-16-2012, 01:53 AM
It would be good if everyone just removed the hinges and rod ends from the bars.
They add cost and having a pivot point on a strut tower bar is a bad thing!

Solid is best. I am doing it this way first so it will fit most style of these cars. If anyone wants
A solid one, let me know, i can make one that way once i get this underway. This one will be
Better/stronger than what most of them i see out there.

Even better is to triangle it with the firewall. But most people dont need that or want that.
But that could be a next step.

GLHNSLHT2
02-16-2012, 02:01 AM
most people are stupid. I'd love to have a triangulated bar :)

rbryant
02-16-2012, 02:05 AM
most people are stupid. I'd love to have a triangulated bar :)

Our firewalls are prone to cracking so be careful if going that route...

If I was starting from scratch and had a donor car I would probably start by cutting the firewall out of the donor and putting it into the project car over the normal firewall to make two layers and double thick.

There are stories about the shelby team secretly stamping out thicker than normal firewalls for the race cars.

Then after that point the triangulated bar would really work. :)

-Rich

Johnny
02-16-2012, 02:34 AM
Then after that point the triangulated bar would really work

But i was thinking of a differant way to tranglate it! I have an idea sort of like the cars when i was working on ac cobras and panteras at the hotrod shop..well sort of like that.

8valves
02-16-2012, 08:11 AM
I've had one of these on order and paid for through Chris for a long time now Johnny, is there one comign this way soon? Thanks, can't wait to add it to my Lancer!

T-Bohn
02-16-2012, 10:15 AM
I'd love to have a triangulated bar :)

I would as well.

I have a MC66 bar that I had to bend to fit well. Anything is better than nothing, agreed?? A triangulated bar that would really stiffen the chassis and eliminate the pivots would be high on my list.

Multiple pieces that get bolted together and could be "preloaded" rather than just drop in maybe?

Has anyone ever thought about making one for the rear of the car?

Johnny
02-16-2012, 01:03 PM
I just looked at a shelby lancer with the two piece intake. Did not install the strut brace yet, but looks like there would not be an issue at all. Will install it, yes, but looks like a go!

---------- Post added at 09:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:58 AM ----------


I've had one of these on order and paid for through Chris for a long time now Johnny, is there one comign this way soon? Thanks, can't wait to add it to my Lancer!

Contact Chris! :)

Sour Kraut's 951
02-16-2012, 01:45 PM
This sucks as now you make something else I have to buy 2 of. I would like them if you make them in the solid style and will clear the hood vent for my 2 SL's Johnny. And than I have to have 2 panhards as well. Stop making good stuff, just kidding.

chilort
02-16-2012, 02:16 PM
I bought an eBay (not the one listed above) STB for a Neon for a whole $18 and have the pattern to redrill it for my Daytona (http://www.cheetahonline.com/technical-articles/94-99-neon-strut-tower-brace-on-a-dodge-daytona/). My plan was to use it for ideas and parts (for $18 it was hard to pass up). Triangulating to the firewall was most certainly in my plans.

If you make something that does triangulate somewhere then I'll just give the eBay bar to a friend of mine with a '95 Neon ACR.

Shadowv4l
02-16-2012, 07:33 PM
has anyone created an X shape brace for the underside of their car between the two frame rails? I'm seriously considering doing something to that effect. My firewall and floor pans both have good size cracks in them, if the temp is right you can hear them when you take a tight turn.

GLHNSLHT2
02-16-2012, 09:00 PM
Has anyone ever thought about making one for the rear of the car?

I made some up for Daytona's oh about 11 years ago. They weren't pretty but they work awesome. No joints to flex. Doesn't affect cargo room and you can really feel the rear suspension actually start to work instead of the body flexing, eliminated about 95% of the interior rattles and creaks and was a much improved ride for the rear passengers as the suspension worked instead of the body flexing and ramming their heads into the roof. It's triangulated into the floor as well.

chilort
02-16-2012, 10:11 PM
I made some up for Daytona's oh about 11 years ago. They weren't pretty but they work awesome. No joints to flex. Doesn't affect cargo room and you can really feel the rear suspension actually start to work instead of the body flexing, eliminated about 95% of the interior rattles and creaks and was a much improved ride for the rear passengers as the suspension worked instead of the body flexing and ramming their heads into the roof. It's triangulated into the floor as well.

Got any photos?

turbovanmanČ
02-17-2012, 01:46 AM
I still say those look goofy on an lbody because they are at an angle instead of being square with the towers.
Rich

Agreed, looks like something is off, silly, :(


Our firewalls are prone to cracking so be careful if going that route...

If I was starting from scratch and had a donor car I would probably start by cutting the firewall out of the donor and putting it into the project car over the normal firewall to make two layers and double thick.

There are stories about the shelby team secretly stamping out thicker than normal firewalls for the race cars.

Then after that point the triangulated bar would really work. :)

-Rich

Its neat the stuff that comes out of the woodwork, :nod:

Mines cracked twice. :(


But i was thinking of a differant way to tranglate it! I have an idea sort of like the cars when i was working on ac cobras and panteras at the hotrod shop..well sort of like that.

I'd love one that triangulates.

This is how I put mine, cleared the one and two piece intakes-

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Sonywork118.jpg

GLHNSLHT2
02-17-2012, 01:55 AM
Got any photos?

Not on the web.

8valves
02-22-2012, 10:31 AM
Keep it rolling Johnny, I really want this thing on my Lancer!

Johnny
02-22-2012, 12:34 PM
Just got off the phone with the place that laser cuts the steel for me. Parts will be finished next week.

turboshad
02-22-2012, 05:31 PM
If it were me making them Johnny I would TIG those welds. Visually the MIGed look on some nice stainless brackets would turn me off from buying the piece. But that's just me, I'm a touch more anal than the average.

8valves
02-22-2012, 08:52 PM
If it were me making them Johnny I would TIG those welds. Visually the MIGed look on some nice stainless brackets would turn me off from buying the piece. But that's just me, I'm a touch more anal than the average.

DJ, for some reason i agree with you. ;)

Juggy
02-23-2012, 12:52 PM
If it were me making them Johnny I would TIG those welds. Visually the MIGed look on some nice stainless brackets would turn me off from buying the piece. But that's just me, I'm a touch more anal than the average.

not to mention its alot stronger weld!

8valves
02-24-2012, 10:48 AM
Not if you're not any good at TIG welding. Ha!

RoadWarrior222
02-24-2012, 11:09 AM
But i was thinking of a differant way to tranglate it! I have an idea sort of like the cars when i was working on ac cobras and panteras at the hotrod shop..well sort of like that.

I was thinking about triangulation early on in the thread, when firewall cracking was first mentioned, and was thinking about the mechanics and realizing a regular strut bar doesn't do a whole lot to stop firewall flex. Anyway, where I got to thinking was that I might wanna triangulate with an anchor that bolts to the K frame or a piece that goes between the back K frame bolts and the frame rail... but it's hard not to steal turbo clearance in front of the firewall there.

Johnny
02-24-2012, 11:13 AM
Not if you're not any good at TIG welding. Ha!

...or have one!

Rod Enis
02-24-2012, 09:08 PM
L body version?

Johnny
02-24-2012, 11:16 PM
Get this done first and see how it goes. I did make one for my GLHS, but I run the later style 1 piece intake.

Johnny
03-07-2012, 01:01 AM
The ends are all welded on by TIG welding.

Johnny
03-07-2012, 01:09 AM
Powder coated one in "black chrome". I like it.
The photo shows black powder coated on the left, chrome powder coating on the right and the center one is the black chrome.
I pick up the laser cut plates friday.

turbovanmanČ
03-07-2012, 07:54 PM
Chrome looks good, :nod:

GLHNSLHT2
03-07-2012, 08:44 PM
price? Thinking about picking one up for my new yorker with a 2 piece.

Johnny
03-12-2012, 09:26 PM
Got the center sections all back from powder coating today.
Got the stainless pieces back, need to weld those and the piece is ready.
Should be ready to ship Friday or Monday at the latest.
Introductory price is $139 plus shipping.
I will wrap one up and check what shipping will be so you will know as soon as I can.

Shadowv4l
03-13-2012, 11:02 PM
wow, thats tempting.

Johnny
03-14-2012, 09:53 AM
Little delay. We had a big storm, trees down, no electric/heat/water/internet. Trees cut out of the way now and am in town in the iPad.

RoadWarrior222
03-14-2012, 09:58 AM
Wow, again, youda thunk all the weak stuff got culled the other month.

Johnny
03-14-2012, 10:26 AM
This is the worst storm for damage since i have lived here. Inwill post photos when my electric get back up.

Johnny
03-15-2012, 04:05 PM
The cost for shipping these is between $14 and $17, depending on where you live.

moparman76_69
03-15-2012, 08:39 PM
Are you going to be offering Minivan braces up front or will those come later?

Johnny
03-15-2012, 09:02 PM
Hope so! When I get some time. IF these sell.

Sour Kraut's 951
03-15-2012, 11:26 PM
[QUOTE=Johnny;893355]Should but would now like to try it on a Daytona, Lancer etc...with a two piece.
I know a guy in Portland that would let me try it on his Shelby Lancer.

Johnny, did you get a test fit for the Lancer? It will need to clear the hood vent and I will be down for two.

Johnny
03-15-2012, 11:48 PM
I hope to test it Monday.

Sour Kraut's 951
03-17-2012, 11:57 AM
^^^^^^^^ Awaiting good news.

Johnny
03-19-2012, 01:25 AM
Tested it on the lancer shelby with the two piece, fit perfect as long as you do not shut the hood. The vent piece will come down and hit the bar.
BUT i do have a solution in the works.....

Sour Kraut's 951
03-19-2012, 03:35 PM
I thought the vent might get in the way. Is it a close call or will it take the overall removal of the inside drain to make it fit? I have always wanted to mod the vent to turn it back around so I want to keep it in place.

30 PSI SHADOW
03-19-2012, 11:49 PM
I still say those look goofy on an lbody because they are at an angle instead of being square with the towers.

It was a compromised way of making the two piece intake clear the bar and he purposely didn't mention it on his website. I actually thought that my towers/frame was bent or something when I first installed it because it looked so weird. All he had to do was provide different offsets on his rings to make it right and he wouldn't do it.

When I complained about it he refused to take it back so I don't recommend him or his bars.

It is good to see an alternative.

-Rich


Yes.Looks great. Too bad i had already purchased the combs bar. I didnt like the goofy angle myself so i cut it off the plate and re-welded it straight. painted the plates the same color as the car and left the bar the same. Looks great! i also lightly preloaded the adjustments.I will have to get a pic of it.

Jeez jonny, timing is everything!

Johnny
03-20-2012, 09:33 AM
Photos of the bar in the Lancer Shelby with the two piece intake.
Fits the intake, it's just the car has that metal on the hood that comes down and hits the bar. Will need to make it so the bar goes behind that hood piece.

RoadWarrior222
03-20-2012, 10:43 AM
What if you tweak the brackets and flip it 180? (i.e. backwards)

Johnny
03-20-2012, 10:46 AM
That is what I plan to do BUT then the bar needs to have two small bends in it...I am working that up!

moparloper
03-21-2012, 07:45 AM
As it stands now, it should fit an '87 & up "G" body without the bends, correct? Are you accepting orders?

Johnny
03-21-2012, 08:24 AM
It will fit all the G, P, K J, E, AA, and K cars...except those that have the metal hood vent that has the bulge dipping down.
I tested the early E car and it should fit that with the bulge if you remove the added plastic piece.
Yes I am taking orders.

Johnny
03-28-2012, 08:39 PM
Welding...I tried the MIG and was not happy with it. So except the first two sets, all the rest are TIG welded. Here are shots of the difference.

turbovanmanČ
03-28-2012, 08:51 PM
TIG, mucho nicer, :nod:

Johnny
03-28-2012, 08:56 PM
If it were me making them Johnny I would TIG those welds. Visually the MIGed
look on some nice stainless brackets would turn me off from buying the piece.
But that's just me, I'm a touch more anal than the average.

Now you can buy one, I did what you wanted! :)

Johnny
04-01-2012, 11:51 PM
Going to California Tuesday, anyone want me to bring one down for them?

8valves
05-17-2012, 05:36 PM
I'm still waiting on the bar fitment for my Lancer. I paid Chris for it back in August of 2011. Any chance I can get one soon?

I'll likely call him shortly since I need some other stuff. Thanks.

AM

Johnny
05-17-2012, 06:58 PM
Forgot about that really. Guess I better revisit that Idea....one for the T2 2-piece intake cars.

mikecombs66
05-21-2012, 08:58 AM
Hello all, I'm the guy selling those Omni strut bars on eBay. I was surprised to read that someone was not satisfied with the strut bar I sell. I originally redesigned the other bars to fit on our cars until a few Omni and charger glhs guys requested a bar for their models. I didn't own one of these cars so I asked them to do the design they wanted and send it to me. I sent those designs off to be manufactured. I have sold many over the years and I did not ever receive a request to return as I would have honored it.

The other thing is that my part is professionally made in a factory with aluminum for strength and a lite weight design. The other guy here is promoting a cheap compromise. If your ok with that, it's fine. If you have a high powered GLHS model, you will need my bar because it's 2 piece design and offset mounted for engineered frame twist and for the anti- flex properties of hard launches at the track. I doubt he has done a serious comparasion except to promote you to buy something from him. It's a bit crazy what he tells others but it's another way to solve your strut bar search problem. I have been selling these for years.

8valves
05-21-2012, 09:57 AM
Hello all, I'm the guy selling those Omni strut bars on eBay. I was surprised to read that someone was not satisfied with the strut bar I sell. I originally redesigned the other bars to fit on our cars until a few Omni and charger glhs guys requested a bar for their models. I didn't own one of these cars so I asked them to do the design they wanted and send it to me. I sent those designs off to be manufactured. I have sold many over the years and I did not ever receive a request to return as I would have honored it.

The other thing is that my part is professionally made in a factory with aluminum for strength and a lite weight design. The other guy here is promoting a cheap compromise. If your ok with that, it's fine. If you have a high powered GLHS model, you will need my bar because it's 2 piece design and offset mounted for engineered frame twist and for the anti- flex properties of hard launches at the track. I doubt he has done a serious comparasion except to promote you to buy something from him. It's a bit crazy what he tells others but it's another way to solve your strut bar search problem. I have been selling these for years.

I will advise you now that this group of enthusiasts is very close, and very pro supporting vendor.

Coming to this site and outright calling a reputable, and active supporting vendor's product inferior and under-developed will get you nowhere fast.

Moreover, come here educated. Just because many of these enthusiasts don't have uber-engineered race cars, they nearly all have a knowledge and fact based mentality with many very bright individuals helping educate everyone, and vice versa.

Translation? Don't come here trying to sound educated and promote your "professionally made product" over a "cheap compromise" and follow it with talking about "engineered frame twist"... about a part designed to eliminate the flex factory shock towers suffer from.

Reagrds,

Aaron M

rbryant
05-21-2012, 02:17 PM
Hello all, I'm the guy selling those Omni strut bars on eBay. I was surprised to read that someone was not satisfied with the strut bar I sell. I originally redesigned the other bars to fit on our cars until a few Omni and charger glhs guys requested a bar for their models. I didn't own one of these cars so I asked them to do the design they wanted and send it to me. I sent those designs off to be manufactured. I have sold many over the years and I did not ever receive a request to return as I would have honored it.


Would you like me to post our email conversation where I stated my dislike for the bar back in '08 and requested to return it? I save every email that I ever send....

Sure I didn't figure out that I was unhappy with the bar for 8 months but that is how long it takes to get things installed sometimes and realize that a product has issues. You accused me a threatening you when I posted information (which you did not provide) about how the bar was at an angle in the engine bay, etc. Rather than deal with the issues or accept a return you suggested that I sell it on ebay...

Your claims that nobody has ever complained about the bar are simply not true. :)


-Rich

turboshad
05-23-2012, 07:14 PM
Welding...I tried the MIG and was not happy with it. So except the first two sets, all the rest are TIG welded. Here are shots of the difference.

:clap: Soooo much better. Great job Johnny. :clap:


Now you can buy one, I did what you wanted! :)

lol, I would but I will be making some camber plates with integrated solid bar mounts with a bar that triangulates back to my roll cage so unfortunately I'm not in the market. But I will say that if I were looking for a standard strut bar you would have my money.


Hello all, I'm the guy selling those Omni strut bars on eBay...blah blah blah......and offset mounted for engineered frame twist and for the anti- flex properties of hard launches at the track......blah blah blah

Wow, I don't even know where to start with you but I thought I would leave in the funniest part of your post showing how little you know about what you are talking about. I also read your ebay add and you have done a great job at trying to fast talk people that don't know any better. Until you come back with a FBD of the forces during a launch demonstrating how much your bar does to benefit the chassis and why your bar will be soooo much better than what Johnny has then please feel free to not return. Also I would like to see the buckling and stress calculations you did proving your claims of why you chose aluminum for strength. After all it is engineered right? :facepalm:

Keep it up Johnny, they are looking great. :thumb:

turbovanmanČ
05-23-2012, 08:07 PM
Hello all, I'm the guy selling those Omni strut bars on eBay. I was surprised to read that someone was not satisfied with the strut bar I sell. I originally redesigned the other bars to fit on our cars until a few Omni and charger glhs guys requested a bar for their models. I didn't own one of these cars so I asked them to do the design they wanted and send it to me. I sent those designs off to be manufactured. I have sold many over the years and I did not ever receive a request to return as I would have honored it.

The other thing is that my part is professionally made in a factory with aluminum for strength and a lite weight design. The other guy here is promoting a cheap compromise. If your ok with that, it's fine. If you have a high powered GLHS model, you will need my bar because it's 2 piece design and offset mounted for engineered frame twist and for the anti- flex properties of hard launches at the track. I doubt he has done a serious comparasion except to promote you to buy something from him. It's a bit crazy what he tells others but it's another way to solve your strut bar search problem. I have been selling these for years.

Wow, :banghead:

francois
05-25-2012, 11:03 AM
Anyways...
Bars like that made out of aluminum are weak. Better then nothing but still, aluminum has a bad memory, meaning the material won't go back where it was. If it bend, and it will with this design, it won't be as effective like a triangulated bar or a bar made of 4xxx serie (steel)

Aircraft grade...again the public don't know these things but the 6 series is weak vs the 7 series.
Everything comes to a price.

I had one of those on a previous car, mind you it wasn't macpherson equipped but when I switched that styled bar with a Neuspeed one, I felt that the front end was more solid.(The car had been rescaped from a wreck, could that explain the reason I felt something?)

There is a lot of "pourparler" with the added "real" benefits of a strut bar...
I had a friend that did the experience on the track if it was going to bring is laps down. His results are showing that it was a waste of money if you are thinking it would have help!

I am in the process of making my own. Not trying to duplicate or going into business.
I bought my GLH because not much aftermarket is there so I could try to fabricate a few things here and there. I get bored at work sometimes...

Johnny his making a nice model.
That's all I can say!

RoadWarrior222
05-25-2012, 01:24 PM
Really it's for the 5 speed 200HP+ guys so they've got something to chain the motor to, to pull and R&R the trans, after every weekends entertainment. :thumb:

turbovanmanČ
05-25-2012, 01:30 PM
I am in the process of making my own. Not trying to duplicate or going into business.
I bought my GLH because not much aftermarket is there so I could try to fabricate a few things here and there. I get bored at work sometimes...

Johnny his making a nice model.
That's all I can say!

There is alot of parts support for the GLH!

Johnny
05-25-2012, 04:32 PM
I made one for my GLHS, but I am running the later intake, so there was room for a straight one.
39828

francois
05-25-2012, 08:46 PM
There is alot of parts support for the GLH!

There is but don't be too picky in general.

On a side note, I just can't go and buy a pair of Koni. Yeah, they come already sleeved..or you just buy an insert. Great for the fronts but what about the back?
I am way off topic on Poly section.

My bad!

So the log type vs the side draft one vs the 2 pieces intake vs a standard GLHT vs a GLHS have all clearance difference? (on a l-body)
Playdoh time, I guess!

Johnny
05-25-2012, 09:18 PM
PlayDoh, is exactly what I used :)

Johnny
06-06-2012, 10:19 AM
OH yes! Just got a 1987 Shelby Lancer. I now have a car I can use for modeling a prototype strut brace on.

Rrider
06-06-2012, 12:58 PM
OH yes! Just got a 1987 Shelby Lancer. I now have a car I can use for modeling a prototype strut brace on.
Nice!


Really it's for the 5 speed 200HP+ guys so they've got something to chain the motor to, to pull and R&R the trans, after every weekends entertainment. :thumb:

Got me scared here Ardub.. :eek:

8valves
06-30-2012, 11:59 AM
OH yes! Just got a 1987 Shelby Lancer. I now have a car I can use for modeling a prototype strut brace on.

How's this coming along Johnny?

wallace
07-24-2012, 08:42 AM
So do you currently sell a STB for the L body?

Johnny
07-24-2012, 09:38 AM
So do you currently sell a STB for the L body?
No, will be a while, if at all.

---------- Post added at 06:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:37 AM ----------


How's this coming along Johnny?

Lancer one...I have a Shelby Lancer now. Have the end plates made. Just need to make time to finish. Will be a couple weeks.

8valves
08-05-2012, 03:25 PM
No, will be a while, if at all.

---------- Post added at 06:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:37 AM ----------



Lancer one...I have a Shelby Lancer now. Have the end plates made. Just need to make time to finish. Will be a couple weeks.

Great, I'm looking forward to it. :)

92Turbotona
08-09-2012, 05:42 PM
looks good johnny, keep it up

Johnny
08-10-2012, 10:23 AM
The strut brace fits perfect on the 87 Shelby Lancer.
Lancer Shelby and the Shelby Lance have different hood plates.

wallace
08-10-2012, 11:15 AM
No, will be a while, if at all.[COLOR="Silver"]

Would you be willing to sell just the plates that bolt to the strut towers for the L body?

Johnny
08-10-2012, 12:09 PM
These dont fit the L body. The L has two holes, these have three.

wallace
08-10-2012, 01:20 PM
Yep I was aware of the 2 vs 3 holes I was thinking you maybe had some of the plates left over when you did the prototype for the l body brace but decided not to produce them. Thanks.

8valves
09-07-2012, 01:00 PM
The strut brace fits perfect on the 87 Shelby Lancer.
Lancer Shelby and the Shelby Lance have different hood plates.

Can you get with Chris W please and get mine to me for my 87 Shelby Lancer then please? I wish I would've checked back here more often, as this was a month ago.

Johnny
09-07-2012, 02:06 PM
will do....sending it out Monday!!

chilort
11-28-2012, 01:21 AM
This has kind of already been asked, but would you sell just the end plates? I need to clear a 2-piece, what ever will be left of my hood vent in my '86 g-body since the vent won't work with the intake, and I want to also triangulate to the firewall.

Johnny
11-28-2012, 01:36 AM
This will clear the 2-piece.
...but yes I can.

GLHNSLHT2
11-28-2012, 01:46 AM
The rain pan/drip tray on a 1st gen daytona just unbolts.

chilort
11-28-2012, 01:53 AM
The rain pan/drip tray on a 1st gen daytona just unbolts.

Yes. But I am thinking of some other plans.

---------- Post added at 12:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:53 AM ----------


This will clear the 2-piece.
...but yes I can.

Thanks for the quick reply. Now for some planning.

Also, you said you were thinking about a triangulated version. Has that gone anywhere yet?

Johnny
11-28-2012, 10:26 AM
Also, you said you were thinking about a triangulated version. Has that gone anywhere yet?

No. Wont have time til first of next year.

chilort
11-28-2012, 10:50 AM
No. Wont have time til first of next year.

That's not bad.

Was reminded today that my Daytona was converted over to Neon strut mounts when we went to coil overs. So, things may be way too complex for me to order anything. Or maybe I get one where the strut mount holes haven't been drilled yet....