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View Full Version : New here, Entertaining idea of building 12v 3.0 3000gt



Mdoe8
01-23-2012, 12:52 PM
Hello all,

I've peaked around thieseforums for a few months now without registering, but figured it was time so I could post my situation.

I'm currently building a 99 3000gt base. The original plans were to build a DOHC for obvious simplicity reasons. However, many of my plans regarding this car are to make it unique to the 3s community. I've strongly considered building and turbo'ing the SOHC that's in it already. These motors are not proven on our platform due to the TT motor swapping right in, just entertaining the idea of doing something different.

I've already got the AWD conversion started, so drivetrain strength isn't an issue. Also, fabricating the turbo kit/etc. is not an issue either.

When it comes down to it, I'm just not familiar with this motor like I am the DOHC. However, the idea of having a completely unique build really entices me.

After research, I'm still not completely sure about a few things.

- Do they make any forged pistons for these motors yet? Or would I still need to get them custom made?

- Is Megasquirt still the best solution for tuning? How is it for tuning ease and driveability?

- Whats the story on ignition? Just the coil needs upgrading?

- Aside from all basics (bottom end/fuel/tune/etc.), what else do these motors require to break the 500whp mark?

If I were to begin going at this right now, it would look something like this...critique away!
-Forged crank
-Stock rods
-Forged pistons (need some info on rings here as it seems to be a weak spot)
-ported heads
-cams
-DSM head bolts (i think I read these were stronger) and metal headgasket
-fuel (are the fuel rails ok on these?)
-over trans turbo kit built my me
-3000gt tt drivetrain


I'm strongly considering building this! Would be one confused 3000gt! Let me know!


http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/16.jpg

Sundance 6g72
01-23-2012, 01:14 PM
on the other site, when i said dsm headbolts, i meant to use them as main girdle bolts. Brent will chime in on this, he is the one that has done this.

the forged crank is not needed but for reliability, i think it would be a nice addition. 500hp is alot of stress and if you can get a forged crank without bending over backwards then by all means do so.

About the fuel rails, now that you say it.. i dont think Brent had stock rails (custom made) on his 500hp motor but dont quote me on this.

for the heads, i assume youl go with the stiffer 3.3 behive springs, ls1 locks/retainers? I think that helps let the cam have more lift (but im not sure)

MC#4
01-23-2012, 01:24 PM
I think this is a pretty cool idea. I love the lines on a 3S and I love the simplicity of a SOHC.

I can't answer most of these questions from personal experience but I've been absorbing info on TM TD and 3Si for the past year and half.

Forged crank - Nice to have although I don't think its 100% necessary.
Forged pistons - I've still never heard of anything off the shelf but custom can be done my many piston manufacturers. You send them a stock piston and ~$800 and they send you back 6 forged units. Venolia has made them and others can I just can't think of any names atm.
Stock rods - I think these have made crazy power w/o issues.
Ported Heads - Can be a DIY project but Ed (kmperformance) does this for cheap and he has a flowbench and years of exp. doing it.
Cams - Alot of uncertainty around cams it seems. Turbovanman has 3 stages of cams to choose from from $350-$400 a pair. I'd stay away from crower after reading horror stories of crap quality control
Head Bolts - Stock are quite strong, I think DSM's are a slight upgrade due to slightly more thread engagement. Arp's are believed to be a downgrade for these motors.
Fuel - I don't know anything about the rails limits sorry.
Turbo header - Ed does these cheap as well. crossover mounted as well as over the rear valve cover.
AWD - LOVE IT! Traction issues solved!

I'm sure more knowledgeable members will chime in. Good Luck with the build!

Mdoe8
01-23-2012, 01:39 PM
Thanks for the replies!

I'm building my own turbo kit so that's not an issue.

I've checked out kmperformance before and that's where I got my ported head prices from, very affordable! I would simply go to them and tell them what my goals are and let them decide what I need

Also, do MAFT's work for these engines? Obviously if I go megasquirt it's not necessary, but they are very nice to have otherwise.

Sundance 6g72
01-23-2012, 02:48 PM
Not sure on the maf translator. I would just go megasquirt for reliabilty reasons (spark control, overboost. And ms3 has a setting that cuts spark if you run to lean)

The dsm headbolts might work for our heads but brent used them as main girdle bolts after his girdle bolts stretched from detanating at high horsepower.

Ooo and for anyone else, ed does not do 3s manifolds... I these engines are flipped. Eds rear header would be on the front for these cars

MC#4
01-23-2012, 03:12 PM
oh yeah, totally forgot about the motor being flipped in those. The crossover manifold would still work though right?

Also are you going 5-speed or 6-speed? How far along is the AWD swap?

A note on piston rings. You'll have to go file fit to get them right. General rule for Turbo motor is .005 for every inch of bore. Our bore is 3.59. I'd go .020+ to keep the ends from butting on a radical build.

Mdoe8
01-23-2012, 03:29 PM
Thakns for the tip on the rings

As for the AWD setup, I've got the 5 speed and transfer case already. Rear subframe and subframe mounts i'm cutting off a car this week!

Mdoe8
01-23-2012, 07:01 PM
Wow, somehow missed the "above and beyond" sohc mod bible that ondonti wrote....what a great post! That's helped me a lot, thanks!

Sundance 6g72
01-23-2012, 08:10 PM
yeah get some dodge cam gears ;)

Mdoe8
01-24-2012, 09:13 PM
SO FAR, here's what I'm thinking. Obviously, this will continue to change as I learn more but this is where I stand so far.

Buy another junkyard 3000gt sohc motor (what other motors are identical (not Flipped)? Diamante?) and work on it in my garage while car is still driving.
- Disassemble Engine completely
- Rebuild with new gaskets, oil pump and pickup, and rings (appropriately gapped).
- Send cams for regrind
- Send Heads and new cams to KMperformance for port/polish/assembly
- Port Throttle body and intake manifold a bit
- Build over transmissions turbo kit (66mm turbo, 44mm wastegate, 3" exhaust, etc.)
- Massive in tank fuel pump and big injectors for E85
- Megasquirt
- Ignition upgrade of sorts

Then take this motor and run it at lower boost for a while. While this is running and enjoying 400whp, begin building the forged piston setup if I want or just have a backup motor in case.

RoadWarrior222
01-25-2012, 11:06 AM
I would...

i) Build top end on spare motor while driving...
ii) Install to car on old motor, getting a good DD tune on low boost while...
iii) rebuilding the bottom end up fully of the spare motor... then
iv) tune hard, for medium boost and make all your mistakes NOW that punish pistons, rings and bearings...
v) swap in built bottom end when you thoroughly know what you're doing or figure you've "peaked" what you dare put on the stock bottom, or break the stock bottom..
iv) if you broke the stock bottom while below ~400HP, even though the new one will "survive" it, then reconsider your approach, ask advice, before going for broke on the new built bottom.

Sundance 6g72
01-25-2012, 12:30 PM
I would get a 3.0 from a van. Cheeper and more than likely not beaten on as much.

c2xejk
01-25-2012, 01:19 PM
I would get a 3.0 from a van. Cheeper and more than likely not beaten on as much.

Since he is running a Mitsu, there are several issues that would have to be delt with. Oil filter and dipstick placement being the first to come to mind...

MC#4
01-25-2012, 01:43 PM
You should be able to snag a SOHC from an old base model stealth for cheap. I picked up a 93 SOHC stealth a few years ago for a 5 speed swap in a R/T. I only paid $500 for the whole car. I'm not sure if any other cars had the reverse mounted 3.0 besides 3S and maybe diamante? I would really try and find a mitsu block for ease though. The spare motor will make things so much eaiser.


Your plans so far look like a great start to me. Hopefully it all comes together for you.

Mdoe8
01-25-2012, 02:45 PM
roadwarrior - i like your plan, though part of the reason to rebuild a stock motor is to gain the ring gap size and simply to get me familiar with the motor. Rather learn the hard way on stock internals.



Here's another question for you guys. I've got a 99 sohc, what years will be identical? I'm sure some changes werre made throughout the 9 years.

RoadWarrior222
01-25-2012, 02:50 PM
Yes, good point, hear so often about how much the stock bottom end will take, I forget about the ring problem.... which won't let you get very far.

MC#4
01-25-2012, 03:29 PM
I can't think of any differences between a 91-99 SOHC. There "may" have been slight changes in some sensors and wiring but I'm pretty sure the block and heads are identical for all. Shouldn't be a problem for your plans.

Mdoe8
01-25-2012, 05:27 PM
Will the longblocks all be identical for all 3.0's? Even the non-reversed?

If so, I may just buy an older longblock from the junkyard with the 8.85 pistons and rebuild that. These pistons are supposed to be better for boost, i believe due to the intake valve reliefs and ring locations being slightly different.

I can then refresh that motor and pull all the accessories from my 3000gt and slap em on. Should I go with a pretty big ring gap? 22 or 24?

Sundance 6g72
01-25-2012, 05:49 PM
they all have reliefs. the 8.5:1 have the ringland placed better.

all blocks should be close to the same.. oil pumps might need to be swapped along with the pan. the dip stick will not be the same though. brent ran a diemente block in a dodge and it was on the firewall side.

Mdoe8
01-25-2012, 05:53 PM
Right, I thought I read somewhere that the valve reliefs were different on the older models...I could be on glue though.

do all these engines have electronic distributors?

Sundance 6g72
01-25-2012, 05:58 PM
yes, electronic and very easy to get megasquirt to talk to them.

shackwrrr
01-25-2012, 07:46 PM
What about a 3.8 swap, then Turbo that. The endeavor I drove today would really scoot, even though it was a heavy sub

RoadWarrior222
01-25-2012, 08:10 PM
A heavy sub? Hmmm I'll hafta get my Pentagon buddy to talk Ramius into defecting over here with one...

Mdoe8
01-25-2012, 08:11 PM
Not too intereste in the 3.8, it's a neat swap though.

shackwrrr
01-25-2012, 08:34 PM
A heavy sub? Hmmm I'll hafta get my Pentagon buddy to talk Ramius into defecting over here with one...

Lol suv, autocorrect fail

RoadWarrior222
01-25-2012, 08:44 PM
Hah, that didn't even cross my mind, I thought you were going for S.O.B.

Mdoe8
01-26-2012, 02:18 AM
Well, it's pretty much official. DOHC parts I've acquired are for sale and I'm picking up a spare 3000gt sohc next week!

87turbodance
01-26-2012, 09:02 PM
Looking forward to pictures of progress. Have you decided on a plan yet? Besides going with the 12V SOHC of course.

Sundance 6g72
01-26-2012, 10:22 PM
http://imgs.pbnation.com/smilies/thumbs_up.gif to being different

going to squirt it? :evil:

Vigo
01-26-2012, 11:23 PM
I want to build a sohc 3kgt too. Therefore i applaud your efforts. :)

Coincidentally i have a DOHC to swap into a k-car.:eyebrows:

Mdoe8
01-27-2012, 02:08 PM
Looking forward to pictures of progress. Have you decided on a plan yet? Besides going with the 12V SOHC of course.

I'm picking up the spare engine and awd drivetrain w/mounts next week.

From there I will tear down the engine and rebuild/refresh it with mostly stock parts. I will make the ring gaps around .020 - .022 for some safety. While I'm doing this, the cams will be sent in for a regrind (still researching where and what grind). Also, the main girdle bolts will be upgraded to DSM head bolts. Once the cams arrive, I'll send the heads and cams to KMPerformance to port/polish/assemble, opting for a slightly oversized valve in the process. I will probably slightly port (most likely just port-match) the intake manifold/throttle body. Ignition will be a simple coil upgrade at first with better plugs/wires. Fuel will be set up for e85 and tuning will be megasquirt. Turbo kit will be made by yours truly.

That should cover the basic plans.

I will entertain the idea of forged pistons while enjoying the setup above


Vigo - in need of a fully built shortblock for your dohc build?

Sundance 6g72
01-27-2012, 05:18 PM
woo

hold off on the dsm headbolt as main girdle bolt idea, i want Brent to chime in an comfirm this. He did it but he might have some crazy reason as to why you shouldnt or why you should!

Mdoe8
01-27-2012, 07:48 PM
I read up on one of his threads where he mentioned it. His failure was due to a tuning issue but the cheap peace of mind isn't a bad idea.

Vigo
01-28-2012, 01:02 AM
Thanks for the offer but picked up my dohc for about 30$ the only money im planning to spend it is a full timing set, and possibly an oil pump and bottom end bearings. I stop spending money on motors right around the $400 mark. :p

Sundance 6g72
01-28-2012, 02:30 AM
I read up on one of his threads where he mentioned it. His failure was due to a tuning issue but the cheap peace of mind isn't a bad idea.

okay good. feel free to read up on his forged motor build, on turbododge.com Lots of good stuff in there too. he ran into about every possible problem i could think of. one thing that would have helped alot would be the megasquirt, which you are starting out with from the beginninghttp://imgs.pbnation.com/smilies/thumbs_up.gif.

Mdoe8
01-28-2012, 02:48 AM
Yeah i think that the majority of his problems were due to his crazy amount of timing he was running, due to the N/A ecu. That will be gone immediately.

Sundance 6g72
01-28-2012, 03:07 AM
yeah for sure. we still run a bit of timing though with boost

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/402755_10150622407113899_534573898_10836168_174334 270_n.jpg

i havnt blown up with this map :)

i tend to get alot of non 6g72 guys yelling at me that im running way to much timing. they are used to negative numbers and max of like 14 degrees when in boost. LOL

RoadWarrior222
01-28-2012, 09:13 AM
Thanks for the offer but picked up my dohc for about 30$ the only money im planning to spend it is a full timing set, and possibly an oil pump and bottom end bearings. I stop spending money on motors right around the $400 mark. :pGood buy, wish I had your luck :D

Mdoe8
01-28-2012, 03:38 PM
yeah for sure. we still run a bit of timing though with boost

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/402755_10150622407113899_534573898_10836168_174334 270_n.jpg

i havnt blown up with this map :)

i tend to get alot of non 6g72 guys yelling at me that im running way to much timing. they are used to negative numbers and max of like 14 degrees when in boost. LOL

That is a fair amount of timing. If i remember correctly, you're boosted fairly mildly though correct?

Sundance 6g72
01-28-2012, 03:40 PM
correct. ive brought that map all the way to 190kpa. i would continue to drop timing in the same manner if i upped the boost.

they just think its crazy to have 28 degrees of advance at 175kpa... lol CARS are not univeral

Vigo
01-28-2012, 06:51 PM
Good buy, wish I had your luck

Well, i had to drive a ways and pull it myself, but he gave me the exhaust with it, so i sold the cat to get back down to that $30 number. He was planning to do an electric conversion on his stealth, so i took his running motor and neglected to tell him how bad/complicated of an idea that was... haha. And this coming from someone who's electrifying a minivan.

Ondonti
01-30-2012, 12:50 AM
1st Generation junkyard (or buy new OEM 1st gen) DSM headbolts are what I used in the mains. Don't use 2nd gen, they are junk.
I have not tested them hard but I know they will perform better. Avoiding huge knock would help too.

Sticking with a basic stockish engine (with a turbo setup) for the short term is a great idea to get the project rolling. Once you have your AWD you can always swap to a DOHC etc. If you end up breaking an open ring gap 12 valve then maybe upgrade the pistons. I know forged 12 valve pistons are great. At that point you might as well get cheap 3sx rod upgrades for long term health. You MUST balance the motor if you upgrade anything or you have wasted your money. Those didn't exist back when I built my forged motor. I went too low on the compression ratio so I was never happy.

Stock shortblock with big ring gaps and maybe upgrading the mains bolts will be fairly reliable. I might suggest upgrading the rings if you want to put a lot of mileage on it. I went chrome on my Daily and Ed had done that long ago over fears of the stock rings losing their tension against the cylinders. I don't know if my setup will ever get hot enough to really matter and I don't know the makeup of OEM turbo rings.
Also, if you are not smart about using the right temperature spark plugs, you may end things prematurely. I dinged up my forged pistons with a broken stock spark plug that saw way too much boost. Never hurt the forged pistons with detonation and I am lucky I didn't hurt the crankshaft or rods on that motor. Probably helped that I had that motor balanced which keeps the crankshaft from bending and whipping as much as it wants to.

I would say 350-400whp on the tweaked shortblock would be reliable with a good tuning tool. I am not pushing my Spirit's motor because I have no registered backup car that actually belongs to me.

Your biggest culprit might be sealing the cylinder head but you will find out that as time passes and you prove your ignition timing is safe. Head bolts are the same as TT so it won't help. The head flexes. You can always O ring. I only head head sealing problems with detonation anyways :P

Sundance 6g72
01-30-2012, 01:02 AM
we had a debate so to speak on the head sealing issues you had. I was trying to point out that the head DOES flex between headbolts.. the question was, did it only happen when detonation occurred or what it just because of high hp?

i think you just answered that though :P

Ondonti
01-30-2012, 06:21 AM
Well I would just say that is an issue that I have not gotten back too. I have never had a leak that did not occur during detonation so it is unknown how far you can go. I plan on partial filling my fun cylinder heads (which have been decked quite a bit thanks to various issues) and redrilling the passages if I have sealing issues in the future. I have tried quite a few tricks and they all seem to work well to seal, its the detonation that I did not have under control. The copper wire on mls gasket blew out when detonated but the mains had already flexed from the block (from detonation).

There are many sealing options out there including headlift fixes (posts in the stantions of the head that flex) or copper gaskets with an O ring and Hylomar sealant to prevent leaks that almost always happen with poorly done copper gasket setups. There is also the Steel wire in OEM gasket, copper wire on MLS. Also there is Copper O ring (with real grooves in the block) against MLS gasket or even steel O ring against mls (smaller clearance levels are needed with steel on mls).

I am still happy with stock Felpro but I have not pushed it or used it in my weaker big valve heads.

There are many options to help seal the head but the most important thing would be a safe tune. Every time my head seal failed it potentially saved something else so its not like its the end of the world.

There was a recent group buy for Tool Steel headstuds for people wanting reliable 1000whp over long periods. OEM seems to slowly give up at those levels if you are pushing hard for a lot of runs. Most people that fast don't get many runs to worry about it. They are unobtainium without group buys (2k or more for a set until you get 5 or 10 sold then the price drops 75% or more). Apparently there are some upgraded ARP available out there made of the higher quality steel which Nelson has shown to be reliable over 1000whp but they are 380 dollars a set. The cheap ones are a waste of time.

Sundance 6g72
01-30-2012, 10:16 AM
was not aware of there being 2 different sets.

this interest me also (talking about arp studs for 12valve 6g72)


But if I remember correctly and understand what i have read there is a bit of gap between the inside surface of the bolt hole and the surface of the factory bolts themselves, and If i have read correctly on one of the Mitsu forums that space is filled with the ARP Heads Studs. (I will try to find where i read this.) So if this is true then the ARP Head Studs are actually better for the head adding rigidity after the head has been properly torqued, and not only that studs have been proven to hold a torque better than a bolt.

we were talking about head lift and the head flex that you ran into

Mdoe8
01-30-2012, 12:26 PM
Thanks for the input Brent.

I will definitely snag the 1g dsm headbolts for inexpensive peace of mind, and stock head bolts for the head. Probably will go with a metal head gasket as well. As for the spark plugs, I planned on going with the 9's I believe it is (did my research but can't remember the full spark plug name off hand...i always go NGK).

I also am planning on sticking with the SOHC, even with the awd setup. I will have 99% of the awd parts by next weekend. It would be very fun to make an AWD turbocharged SOHC 3000gt. I know the transmission will bolt right up, what about the flywheels/clutches?

Good call on the rings. Where would I go to get the better-than-stock rings? IIRC, there are some chrome sets on ebay but I'm not positive on that. I'd really like to hit the 400awhp mark with this setup. I know it CAN do it, the issue becomes reliability. With a solid tune, I'd bet it can make 400awhp all day long without major issues.

Quick question regarding engine rebuild/refresh. If I'm using stock rods/pistons and one of the bearings isn't perfect, do I have to measure and get the appropriate sized bearing or just get a "stock sized" bearing? I've seen piston kits that randomly come with bearings, how can I be assured that these are properly sized? Or is this just a "close enough but not blueprinted" rebuild that is most common? Excuse my ignorance, I'm not extremely familiar with all of this yet.




1st Generation junkyard (or buy new OEM 1st gen) DSM headbolts are what I used in the mains. Don't use 2nd gen, they are junk.
I have not tested them hard but I know they will perform better. Avoiding huge knock would help too.

Sticking with a basic stockish engine (with a turbo setup) for the short term is a great idea to get the project rolling. Once you have your AWD you can always swap to a DOHC etc. If you end up breaking an open ring gap 12 valve then maybe upgrade the pistons. I know forged 12 valve pistons are great. At that point you might as well get cheap 3sx rod upgrades for long term health. You MUST balance the motor if you upgrade anything or you have wasted your money. Those didn't exist back when I built my forged motor. I went too low on the compression ratio so I was never happy.

Stock shortblock with big ring gaps and maybe upgrading the mains bolts will be fairly reliable. I might suggest upgrading the rings if you want to put a lot of mileage on it. I went chrome on my Daily and Ed had done that long ago over fears of the stock rings losing their tension against the cylinders. I don't know if my setup will ever get hot enough to really matter and I don't know the makeup of OEM turbo rings.
Also, if you are not smart about using the right temperature spark plugs, you may end things prematurely. I dinged up my forged pistons with a broken stock spark plug that saw way too much boost. Never hurt the forged pistons with detonation and I am lucky I didn't hurt the crankshaft or rods on that motor. Probably helped that I had that motor balanced which keeps the crankshaft from bending and whipping as much as it wants to.

I would say 350-400whp on the tweaked shortblock would be reliable with a good tuning tool. I am not pushing my Spirit's motor because I have no registered backup car that actually belongs to me.

Your biggest culprit might be sealing the cylinder head but you will find out that as time passes and you prove your ignition timing is safe. Head bolts are the same as TT so it won't help. The head flexes. You can always O ring. I only head head sealing problems with detonation anyways :P

Sundance 6g72
01-30-2012, 01:47 PM
just for refference, i was running ngk gr5s (stock type plug for sohc 12v) and i hit 11.5psi with them just fine (as far as i know)

but i did the smart thing and switched to ngk gr7s and gapped them around .035 (they were at .045ish and had blowout problems)

for your goals, i think the gr9 would be a great choice but IIRC brent used gr8? Just keep the gap correct and you should be good. im not sure if there is a problem with going with to cold of a plug, im sure its better than too hot of a plug

Mdoe8
01-30-2012, 01:52 PM
Yeah the gap would be low .030's.

Another question: Does megasquirt support the GM boost solenoid for controlling boost? I had bought one for a previous build (aem ecu powered) and never got around to using it.

Sundance 6g72
01-30-2012, 02:33 PM
i think that is what diy actually sells

let me take a look for you

edit:

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/boost-control-c-46.html?osCsid=806508be41c660027e3bb0300e4cdbe3

Mdoe8
01-30-2012, 02:53 PM
bonus, thanks!

I've got the controller and pigtail in my garage!

Sundance 6g72
01-30-2012, 04:12 PM
nice! I never looked into the ebc much but from what i could tell, it has a big leanring curve to get it working. Not sure if you ever actually used it or not but be carefull with the first test run

Mdoe8
01-30-2012, 04:13 PM
I've never used the GM solenoid itself, but have used probably a dozen electronic controllers in my day. I've been through a lot of cars lol

Sundance 6g72
01-30-2012, 04:19 PM
thats good

i undid my wastegate once and kept it stuck shut and it made the turbo super responsive and i hit overboost almost instantly compared to when the wastegate lines are hooked up (mbc) I dont like the idea of it progressvely opening as boost builds but i guess thats what i get for not using an ebc. helps traction :P

speaking of boost control and overboosting, the megasquirt overboost setting has worked well for me so i guess there are no worries there as far as doing the ebc wrong. MS has your back

Mdoe8
01-30-2012, 04:21 PM
Good to know!

Back when I had a supra still on stock twins, I would run race gas and plug the wastegate before taking it down the 1/4. Picked up a few mph this way, only hit around 24 psi and tapered down from there.

Sundance 6g72
01-30-2012, 06:19 PM
hahahahaha

intake temp = over 9000 :P

Mdoe8
01-30-2012, 06:25 PM
Yeah intake temps rose but it still ran great, never missed a beat. Only like that for 12 seconds! Ran a 12.5@119 iirc (kuhmos suck off the line). Took 15 seconds to put the line back on so it was quick and easy.

My turbo ls1 rx7 just ran wastegate pressure at first, worked perfectly.
Evo, supra, vr4, mr2, rotary rx7, and 300zx all had EBC's.

Ondonti
01-31-2012, 07:10 AM
I should mention what I forgot...
The twin turbo oem MLS headgasket is the best known gasket that is proven to hold lots of power. People have recently been opening up the bore of the gasket before going with another gasket but most people chamfer their pistons to allow for the oem gasket while using a huge overbore. OEM pistons will never worry about that stuff. Opening up the gasket is unproven btw. Chamfering is well proven.

Ed got a set of 91.1mm chrome rings from Summit Racing and I did the same. I just got the 1.2 1.5 3.0 ringset that matches up with 1992+ motors that are oem 8.9:1. 8.85:1 motors in early years are 1.5 1.5 and 3.0 and are beefier if you want oem pistons because the top ring is located much farther down.
I have stock rings in my Duster because I don't really care what happens to that shortblock over time.

You will be able to use TT clutch setups. I bolted a TT clutch setup to my motor as a test but it is too large for the Chrysler bellhousing. n/a mitsu clutch setup is a smaller diameter.

Mitsu also has +1 bearings (not sure exactly what they are called) but I have never used them. I just stick with good enough for now. SOHC motor bearings will probably be pretty clean but if they are not then just throw in some Clevite 77's in base size. My Duster currently has a crank rod journal out of tolerance and I just measured a bunch of junkyard bearings and put in the thickest set. Thats another reason I don't care about that motor over the long term. Had no problems over a couple hundred miles.
I know when people are pushing hard they get picky about bearing clearances (and I can't quote any numbers) but I would not go to that level with stock rods. Ruins the point of running "cheap" parts.
3Si people say the most important bearing issue is making sure the "crappy" mitsu oil pan has no dents and that the pickup is not clogged. For some reason mitsu oil pans love to oil starve the motor but I think there are just a lot of owners running low on oil. That or the oil is not draining quickly enough (12 valve heads do have poor drains, no idea what dohc heads look like, 12 valve just needs to be drilled out to match the size of the block returns) combined with low oil level. The more rpms, the more oil in the head.

Mdoe8
01-31-2012, 02:32 PM
Interesting that the twin turbo head gasket would line up, but the heads don't bolt up. Is some modification needed to get the tt head gasket to fit?


Also, when you say your rod journal is out of tolerance, did you actually measure it with plastigauge or just see that it didn't look good?

Sundance 6g72
01-31-2012, 03:31 PM
nono the heads bolt up just fine.. its getting the right timing belt, and getting acc. stuff bolted on and working right

Mdoe8
01-31-2012, 03:46 PM
OOOhhhh, gotcha. So if I were to swap 12v suitable pistons to my dohc block...it would do me no good?

Sundance 6g72
01-31-2012, 03:49 PM
if i were to guess, you would have to swap the crank too.. or just the crank sprocket? the pistons should just drop in and the rods are the same. hell, you could prolly use the dohc pistons but the valve reliefs are obiouslty off (not sure if you would run into clearance issues)

maybe you should check it out when you get the sohc block. you said your dohc was built but if you dont mind doing a little messing around?

Mdoe8
01-31-2012, 03:53 PM
Yeah it's a fully forged setup. Would be nice if all I had to do was swap out pistons and be done. I have a feeling it won't though, I'll do some digging to see.

As of right now the sale of m shortblock will fund the beginning of this build.

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/engine2.jpg
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/engine1.jpg
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/4bolt.jpg
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/engine3.jpg
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/engine4.jpg

Sundance 6g72
01-31-2012, 04:00 PM
wow nice

you know, everyone says the cranks swap, so it makes me think you would just have to swap the crank sprocket to get things going. I would try this.. it would take a couple seconds.

the heads are paired with their accessories.. so your sohc heads would require the sohc altornator and all that good stuff (if im thinking right)

thats why we dont run dohc heads in our cars because we need all that extra stuff to fidle with that ourl cars never came with in the frist place. 3000gt had both engiens so you should be able to take any block and pair it with sohc heads and accessories. this is theory because ive never tried it nor have i spent much time under the hood of either dohc or sohc stealths.

Mdoe8
01-31-2012, 04:18 PM
Well I've got two 3000gt sohc engines, I suppose I have enough parts to make it work ;)

However I still like the idea of selling the shortblock as it will give me the funds for other parts as well.

Ondonti
01-31-2012, 04:30 PM
Why don't you just install sohc heads onto the dohc block. Its the SOHC block that is missing a boss for the timing belt tensioner. Still might not be possible because the SOHC tensioner bolts to the oil pump.

I would give it a go.

10:1 diamante pistons have no valve reliefs so you would be no worse off, just a little lower on the compression level.

If you are out to prove something with a 2 bolt sohc block then I guess that motor does you no good :) Not sure if a dohc block with sohc heads would have that "look what I did" appeal the same way.

Sundance 6g72
01-31-2012, 04:31 PM
maybe use junk sohc block for getting things going then swap the sexi dohc block in

Ondonti
01-31-2012, 04:35 PM
was not aware of there being 2 different sets.

this interest me also (talking about arp studs for 12valve 6g72)



we were talking about head lift and the head flex that you ran into

The ARP also neck down smaller in an area where the OEM studs to not. That is a complaint about them. Your source is sorta saying the opposite, or talking about a different bolt for a different motor. The oil is fed by one of the bolt holes anyways. Interference fit is not proper and being closer to interference won't make a difference. The most important thing is that you have your washers installed to spread the load farther out. Still wont help those stanchions.

Mdoe8
01-31-2012, 04:59 PM
i've heard of people notching their own valve reliefs before with radical cams, etc. What is stopping sohc people from taking tt pistons and making reliefs to match the sohc pistons? It wouldn't be perfect with the four valve reliefs there also, but.....?

Sundance 6g72
01-31-2012, 05:36 PM
are dohc pistons stronger? im not a piston guy but i do know that they are cast (so i hear)

is there a problem with having 4 valve relifs plus some extra knotching for the sohc heads? will something be funky with combusion or am i just thinking too hard?

Ondonti
01-31-2012, 05:44 PM
The reason is why bother? DOHC heads are interference so I don't understand why they have reliefs unless it allows for slight belt slip.

I had to flycut my forged pistons to keep it non interference with big valves.
Dohc n/a pistons are 10:1.

TT pistons are obviously stronger especially if you have a set of forged pistons in your motor already :P That doesn't mean its the best solution if you are starting from scratch. 12v pistons properly match the combustion chamber for a 12 valve and that is a good thing for detonation prevention and combustion. Tradeoffs. Or custom 12 valve. etc etc etc.

Many ways to go. Figuring out the purpose behind a choice is important. Pump gas numbers are easier on lower compression and forged pistons. I did big numbers on very low compression, methanol, and 91 octane. I didn't really enjoy it but that was mostly the burning oil part. Very soggy down low with a big cam. Probably terrible with a heavy car.

What octane is to be used on the street and what hp goal on that octane? Most important starting point.

Mdoe8
01-31-2012, 05:58 PM
flycut...that's the term! couldn't think of it for some reason

I'm going back and forth between e85 and straight pump gas. Probably will be a mild pump gas build at first though. I'd like to hit the 400whp mark on pump gas with a regapped motor. Basically I want to get started with a quick but not crazy build, then have everything laid out to where I can slap big fuel and forged pistons in to make bigger power.

Sundance 6g72
01-31-2012, 06:22 PM
does your dohc block have a 4 bolt main?

i say e85 to start with.. mine as well get used to it before your throw the big power at it. not much can go wrong with starting on e85 and it would be less of a pain. If you have to break in a new motor AND switch to e85, things might not go well because the tune has to be changed. Keep the fuel the same, then the tune is the same, and you can break in the fresh motor easily. Thats the good thing about turbing a used engine before you throw in the good rebuilt engine. im sure you know this

Mdoe8
01-31-2012, 06:37 PM
Thats a Good point regarding e85. As for the 4 bolt main, yup! see above pictures!

Sundance 6g72
01-31-2012, 06:56 PM
how much will you really get out of selling the dohc block?

turbo sohc block w/ e85. aquire your goal and then swap to the dohc block with your built sohc heads and rape faces.

i dont see how it would be hard to run sohc heads on a dohc block. everyone has always wanted to take a turbo dodge and put dohc heads on the sohc block but didnt due to becasue of acc. stuff. your in a good situation with a chassis that saw both flavors of the g72.

Mdoe8
01-31-2012, 09:12 PM
I've got someone interested for $2k, so I would get a good chunk of change.

If it doesn't sell, I may pursue the swap and see how it goes!

Sundance 6g72
01-31-2012, 10:04 PM
:confused: :thumb:

Vigo
02-01-2012, 10:38 AM
I know of two full turbo'd dohc motor swaps into k-cars and one that was never completed, but none were ever documented on forums.

Sundance 6g72
02-01-2012, 04:57 PM
I know of two full turbo'd dohc motor swaps into k-cars and one that was never completed, but none were ever documented on forums.

ive only ever heard of one (until now) and it was that riced to ---- shadow with the body kit. He didnt drive it from what i saw, just sat it in the bay and started it. LOL

87turbodance
02-01-2012, 08:16 PM
I'm not sure if it was mentioned or not but you'll have to run a remote oil filter with the DOHC block because the stock oil frilter location will likely interfere with the passenger drive axle.

Sundance 6g72
02-01-2012, 08:35 PM
why would it, its a 3000gt and it would be mounted like stock!

Ondonti
02-03-2012, 06:44 AM
Yeah, thats only me who had to run remote and Loziers car. Mitsu block will work great in a mitsu :P

87turbodance
02-03-2012, 09:37 AM
why would it, its a 3000gt and it would be mounted like stock!

LOL. I was forgetting that he's using a 3000GT/Stealth car. DOH!

Ignore what I said!

Sundance 6g72
02-03-2012, 10:58 AM
:blah:


:P

Vigo
02-05-2012, 10:46 PM
ive only ever heard of one (until now) and it was that riced to ---- shadow with the body kit. He didnt drive it from what i saw, just sat it in the bay and started it. LOL

I know of one in a 1st gen daytona with a single turbo setup, one in the shadow with the stock duals setup, and one in a spirit/acclaim with a custom twins setup that was never completed.

Sundance 6g72
02-05-2012, 11:48 PM
why dont these people show us this stuff..

RoadWarrior222
02-06-2012, 10:03 AM
Well if you put on some waders and a noseclip you can probably dig it out of TD's archives.

Mdoe8
02-06-2012, 12:55 PM
Motor wasn't ready for me to pick up this weekend, so hopefully next weekend I'll have something to start tearing apart!

Also, do you guys know how I could get around measuring clearances without a bore gauge? I've had numerous request to measure clearances but only have a micrometer and don't want to buy a fancy bore gauge. I was thinking perhaps just measure with a micrometer and then use plastigauge. Thoughts?

c2xejk
02-06-2012, 01:28 PM
How about this telescoping gauge set?

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-telescoping-gauge-set-5649.html

Here is another option

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-6-DIAL-INDICATOR-BORE-GAGE-0005-GAUGE-/300527104142?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f8cfb08e

Mdoe8
02-06-2012, 07:29 PM
Saw that ebay bore gauge but would like to take the measurements tomorrow. That harbor freight option may work out. I didn't think about a regular telescoping gauge. As long as it's accurate, I can make deal i assume.

Thanks!

Vigo
02-06-2012, 08:31 PM
A bore gauge isnt even accurate unless you can zero it inside something of the exact diameter you want to measure. Or really damn close to it.

RoadWarrior222
02-06-2012, 10:00 PM
or you could do some trigonometry and figure the error :p

Vigo
02-07-2012, 10:52 PM
a bore gauge doesnt read the distance between its two ends. It just measures how compressed the one moving end is, in a tiny range. You have to get it close to the bore size by adding extensions and spacers, then zero it in a calibrating ring. At least, this is how my bore gauge experience has been.

Mdoe8
02-08-2012, 02:43 AM
Bore gauge paired with a micrometer can measure all clearances. i think I may just bring the block to a machine shop and slip them a few bucks to measure everything. I am excited to get this started!

RoadWarrior222
02-08-2012, 11:45 AM
Only if you're gonna get stuff done there.... get it measured one place and cut another and you'll have problems.

Mdoe8
02-08-2012, 12:56 PM
This is for me selling the built block, that's all. Everyone is asking for me to measure the clearances and I don't have the proper tools to do that at the moment. If I just bring it somewhere and get it over with, I can get rid of this thing!

shayne
02-08-2012, 07:46 PM
a set of vernier calipers will get bore dia very close in a pinch but the only way to measure bore clearance is to measure the pistons skirt (where the manufacturer specifies, they all seem to have different spots to measure) and then measure the bore properly, and subtract. the piston skirts dont stick out far enough into the block to get a measurement from the inside. plasti gages will be good for checking bearing clearances.

Mdoe8
02-08-2012, 08:19 PM
I suppose I'll just snag some plastigauge and do that and see if that's enough for the potential buyers.

They already know it's bored .020 over.

Mdoe8
02-17-2012, 04:14 AM
Built motor and intake manifold sold!

AWD drivetrain and spare motor purchased! Should be picking them up this weekend. Can't wait to dig into this!

Sundance 6g72
02-17-2012, 10:09 AM
\m/



take lots of pics

MC#4
02-17-2012, 10:42 AM
Keep us updated!

Mdoe8
02-19-2012, 09:38 PM
AWD Subframe/diff/suspension/mounts/motor
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/24.jpg



Spare motor
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/25.jpg



AWD subframe mounts cut from car.
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/26.jpg

MC#4
02-19-2012, 10:42 PM
Awesome, I hope you see this project all the way through! Are you going to do an AWS delete?

Sundance 6g72
02-20-2012, 12:04 AM
:love::love::love::love:

Mdoe8
02-20-2012, 03:21 AM
Absolutely aws delete. I actually had one in my posession and regret getting rid of it. AWS is worthless.

I will definitely see it through, going to start tearing apart the motor and "restore" the awd system as it's pretty dirty/old.

Will for sure have updates this week!

Ondonti
02-20-2012, 04:19 AM
Those AWD Swaps seem to be much more popular then seems rational but I guess a wrecked vr4 does nobody any good and the parts can be saved to make a "new" vr4 :)

Sundance 6g72
02-20-2012, 09:44 AM
im all for making new vr4s :)

Mdoe8
02-20-2012, 01:43 PM
haha yeah. The guy has 52 cars he's parting out...the car this came off of was literally cut in half, so it was easy to snag the subframe and mounts off of it.

Mdoe8
02-22-2012, 05:19 PM
Just a few more pictures.

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/a1d3dc3d.jpg
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/520a7834.jpg
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/63872d06.jpg
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/889e0fdc.jpg


And here's what I got to do today. Gotta love having a 65 degree day with snow still on the ground. Made for a good ride until I realized my regulator is going down :(
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/89eb4a9a.jpg

MC#4
02-22-2012, 05:25 PM
Diggin the busa man! Today's weather makes me wish I hadn't sold my R1. Rollin down the windows in a car just isn't the same. :(

How hard are the mounts to put in for the AWD swap? Can you just drill those 3 holes and bolt em in?

Mdoe8
02-22-2012, 05:28 PM
Thanks! There definitely is nothing like riding, its a very unique experience. Riding with a buddy is just amazing.

No you have to cut out the old mounts and weld these in. It's not too bad really, because the frame/chassis/unibody/whatever is the exact same shape surroing the mounts, so you cut part of the body with it and it molds in perfect. No need to measure and line everything up!

So just some easy cuts and proper welding is all it takes.

Sundance 6g72
02-22-2012, 11:35 PM
stop with the bike talk :/ ill kill my self with one but i want one bad


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xq8C0ZjzsJ8

---------- Post added at 10:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:30 PM ----------

rear camber and toe is adjustable right? so you dont have to line it up 100% perfect?

Mdoe8
02-23-2012, 02:29 AM
That eclipse is wicked, I remember seeing that video a year or so ago.

As for 100% perfect, it is very hard not to get it 100% perfect. See picture(s) below
http://i31.tinypic.com/s5zjh1.gif

Ondonti
02-23-2012, 07:58 AM
That eclipse is wicked, I remember seeing that video a year or so ago.

As for 100% perfect, it is very hard not to get it 100% perfect. See picture(s) below
http://i31.tinypic.com/s5zjh1.gif
Nailed it.

RoadWarrior222
02-23-2012, 08:41 AM
Nailed it.Nah man, did it all proper, with JB Weld and pop rivets! ;-)

Mdoe8
02-23-2012, 02:35 PM
lol, here is the final result. Welded and undercoated, then foam sprayed behind it.

http://i39.tinypic.com/2hcol12.jpg

MC#4
03-15-2012, 10:49 PM
Nothing to report in 3 weeks?

Vigo
04-24-2012, 08:45 PM
I've wanted to do a turbo sohc 3000gt for a long time, but it is HARD to find one for the right price. Finally found a broken one i was willing to pay for (still about $400 higher than i would have been happy with but since it's the first time ever that ive been CLOSE to liking a deal, i took it).

So... any updates on yours?

Mdoe8
05-01-2012, 12:48 PM
Hey all, no true updates yet. However, I do have the car in my garage now! The car was in St. Louis, my father was driving it around until he got his new car.

The build is taking a drastic turn though, so in about a month or two I will have real updates.

I do have everything I need for the rear subframe conversion now, including aws delete and new suspension all the way around (with ground control coilovers!).


Also, I've got a spare 3000gt sohc engine laying around if someone wants it for $100. It is seized but is complete from oil pan to intake manifold to torque converter. Would make for a fun builder.

Vigo
05-01-2012, 01:00 PM
When you say drastic turn, still doing AWD, and selling the spare sohc..

Does that mean it's not a sohc build anymore?

Sundance 6g72
05-01-2012, 01:21 PM
The build is taking a drastic turn though, so in about a month or two I will have real updates.



http://imgs.pbnation.com/smilies/runaway.gif

Mdoe8
05-01-2012, 02:03 PM
Don't worry, I'm not going DOHC :)

Vigo
05-01-2012, 02:42 PM
Well, i guess pretty soon i might be the ONLY person on turbo mopar building a SOHC 3000gt...

Unless the new motor is sohc too. :p

Mdoe8
05-02-2012, 11:31 PM
I've been doing a pretty massive detail job. So far have gone over and washed it three times, did a very detailed claybar, and have gone through half the cutting process (ran out of time tonight). I've also conditioned all of the black on the exterior and painted the wiper arms. Tomorrow I will finish cutting and will wax it. Then it's on to the interior. Here is a decent comparison from when i got it to now.

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/01.jpg
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/06.jpg
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/07.jpg


Now looks like this
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/48349cc9.jpg

Vigo
05-03-2012, 08:02 AM
Did you repair or replace the bumper cover? Mine isnt that bad but it definitely needs one or the other.

Mdoe8
05-03-2012, 01:26 PM
Replaced it with the 97-98 style bumper. I much prefer this style to the 99.

Vigo
05-03-2012, 10:43 PM
Me too. I dont know why people go for the 99 style.. its hideous.

Mdoe8
05-15-2012, 05:22 PM
All shiny and purrtty. Just needs the dents removed and the body is good enough for me. Have coilovers i'll be installing soon and I will change out the wheels eventually.

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/a8b4463d.jpg

Mdoe8
05-15-2012, 05:41 PM
Click picture to watch walkaround video.



http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/th_b39d5058.jpg (http://s762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/?action=view&current=b39d5058.mp4)

RoadWarrior222
05-15-2012, 06:45 PM
Not three bad, only thing that catches the eye is that drivers side fender dent, and it looks like it would pop out...

Garage is tidier than mine :(

Sundance 6g72
05-15-2012, 10:33 PM
the car looks really good. cant wait to see some progress.

Vigo
05-15-2012, 11:46 PM
I kinda like the halos. any details on those?

Ondonti
05-16-2012, 05:12 AM
I see an engine in the garage.

MC#4
05-16-2012, 02:06 PM
Love it!

Mdoe8
05-16-2012, 07:56 PM
The engine in the garage is the SOHC i'm trying to sell. I may rebuild it for fun but we'll see.

Thanks guys for the compliments, it sure has come a long way.

As for the halos, it's the ricer inside my that liked them. However, it must be said that this is one of the few cars I think it looks good on. I'm not a fan when the halo is sticking out and looks like it was just pasted to the outside of the lens. With the 3000gt, they tuck in so they are very subtle but look neat still. They are just standard ricer halo kits you can buy anywhere, just have to rip apart the headlight and install them (the deeper in the better).

Mdoe8
05-19-2012, 06:50 PM
Wheels are on. I will install the coilovers soon to get rid of 4x4 mode. I will polish the lips on the wheels as well, they are kind of faded. This also shows how badly I need to upgrade my brakes haha. Looks pretty good though.

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/31ad0411.jpg
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/2cc6843e.jpg

RoadWarrior222
05-19-2012, 07:49 PM
What are you upgrading your brakes to, red or yellow? :D

Sundance 6g72
05-20-2012, 08:58 AM
greeen brah breeen!

Vigo
05-20-2012, 11:05 AM
Yeah, i dont like looking at the brakes on my 3kgt either. Base models got the shaft in that regard.

What size are the rims? Do you know width and offset?

Mdoe8
05-20-2012, 03:00 PM
18x8, i believe +35 offset, 245/40/18

Brakes will be 2g vr4 with drilled rotors. I may paint the vr4 calipers red or black

RoadWarrior222
05-20-2012, 03:41 PM
Ima start a new thing, find some high temp neon paint, and put a UV light in there somehow...

---------- Post added at 03:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:40 PM ----------

oh yah, note to self, corner market in high temp neon paint and small 12V UV lamps first.

Mdoe8
05-20-2012, 05:16 PM
Why all the hate for painted calipers? I think a well done red caliper looks great.

http://jns.jimnshar.com/0f280a90.jpg

Sundance 6g72
05-20-2012, 10:38 PM
just a ricer joke. they do look nice and give cars a great look.

RoadWarrior222
05-21-2012, 11:36 AM
Just a tease, on account of the noob ricer mentality of thinking it is bright painted calipers that make the car better rather than the actual upgrade high $$$ Brembo or whatever calipers that originally came in that color.... which I guess was the manufacturers way of making their big ticket parts less "invisible" as it were. So import world+dog tends to paint up their stock calipers, which is kinda laughable.

As far as practicality goes, never ever had to replace calipers for rusting on the outside...

It can look good, but it's kinda "played out" as a unique feature.

---------- Post added at 11:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:29 AM ----------

Oh BTW, had some idea of how to do neon. I think you'd need to buy pigment, and mix it into a clear or white high temp base. Then you would probably need to illuminate indirectly, by polishing the inside of teh rim and relying on internal reflections to illuminate the caliper. I figure a powerfulish UV lamp on the opposite side of teh caliper, shined "into" the rim, so it bounces round the rim and back onto the caliper.

Mdoe8
05-21-2012, 11:57 AM
I'm going to do glow int he dark paint ;)

Mdoe8
05-21-2012, 01:44 PM
Here's another shot of the wheels. Car is still in 4x4 mode

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/7dec8c06.jpg

---------- Post added at 11:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:39 AM ----------

and then a ghetto MSPaint-chop lowering kit

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/loweredchop.jpg

Sundance 6g72
05-21-2012, 11:50 PM
looks good. not to low but not to much gap


this isnt horribly bad but i dont think i would like owning it

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/428426_10150971994113899_534573898_11746133_119446 6940_n.jpg

Mdoe8
05-22-2012, 04:53 PM
I'm not a fan of wheel tuck. When I put my coilovers on, I'll leave a two finger sized gap above the wheel. Anything more is overkill

Mdoe8
05-29-2012, 07:51 PM
And so it begins
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/48e63ac6.jpg

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/167c5364.jpg
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/5ce7f2a4.jpg
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/25515889.jpg

Sundance 6g72
05-30-2012, 12:59 AM
:) do ittt

Mdoe8
06-03-2012, 04:38 PM
Cleaned up the bay today. Will probably have a few more progress pictures of this to follow.

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/53gif.gif

Mdoe8
06-08-2012, 12:20 PM
Just another empty engine bay update. Removed a lot of little things and cleaned it up more

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx270/Mdoe8/5f7be9c2.jpg

Sundance 6g72
06-09-2012, 01:06 PM
looks good. lotsss of holes

Ondonti
06-09-2012, 08:24 PM
I wonder how much all that exhaust weighs? Looks like TT style.

Mdoe8
06-12-2012, 10:46 PM
Yeah the n/a's are very similar to the tt, just smaller diameter. Definitely weighed a lot, glad it's gone!

Many of the holes will be covered hopefully. I don't feel like filling them all in!

Mdoe8
12-10-2012, 03:40 PM
Edited

MC#4
12-10-2012, 05:03 PM
At first glance I thought you had a 6.1 hemi in there, then realized its an LS motor.... sigh. lol.

RoadWarrior222
12-10-2012, 08:19 PM
Can't resist....

http://i.qkme.me/3s4ukt.jpg

:p

Mdoe8
12-11-2012, 01:56 PM
Edited

c2xejk
12-11-2012, 06:22 PM
Yes, alcohol is well known for it's ability to making things/people look more appealing than they are....

Mdoe8
12-11-2012, 08:19 PM
Lol love the open minded people in here.

RoadWarrior222
12-11-2012, 08:46 PM
Well we're about as open minded as the LS1 fans...
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f75/3000gt-stealth-44251/
Or the 3000GT/Stealth fans...
http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/ls1-swap-497507/

Mdoe8
12-11-2012, 11:38 PM
Lol thanks for showing other haters. I suppose I'll stop updating this thread.

Vigo
12-12-2012, 12:26 AM
Dont get all butt hurt about it. A sohc 3kgt only had a fairly tenuous connection to Turbo-Mopar.com to begin with, and now that it isnt a sohc 3.0 it has basically none. I think its cool that you updated just because its nice to get some closure on the 3.0 aspect of it, but if you cant take a little heat for doing a cross-manufacturer motor swap, you probably would be better off just not posting about it. It IS the internet.. and it could be a lot worse.

RoadWarrior222
12-12-2012, 10:08 AM
Well yah turbo mopardom is so full of red headed stepchildren that it can be mistaken for the Weasley family reunion, but you took yours into surgery and came back with something akin to Michael Jackson, so any slight fondness for the red headed stepchild underdoggedness of the thing got thrown out with the bathwater and we come to "WTF is up with that nose???" etc


Though we grudgingly admire the tenacity to adhere to the principle espoused by Ernest Hemingway...
“Always do sober what you said you'd do drunk. That will teach you to keep your mouth shut.” :D

Ondonti
12-12-2012, 04:12 PM
VR440 was an interesting 3000gt that the owner put a 3 speed 927 (or whatever chrysler blah blah) with gear vendors to get 6 forward gears and then a 440 with centrifugal super charger. Stock rear end cause the 3/S rear end has....never broken from too much power.

Guy makes me grumpy because he doesn't update much at all except, "hey I made huge changes, better motor and a blower, its fun. Bye." Frustrating because the car must be a hoot. Guessing the owner has enough money that the car is not a big deal to him.


The ls1 thread is pretty epic on 3si but I would not go with an LS1 over a 6g7x. An iron bock large displacement LSX would be another story since it would actually be able to handle more power then an LSX and be more reliable since you wouldn't have to push it so hard.

Saw recently that Nelson's 3000gt is running 169mph (with automatic transmission to boot) on 25 pounds of boost and his nitrous failing to activate (I believe the setup is supposed to be good for 45-50psi and spray). Thats pretty much where the meanest LS1's are at full tilt thanks to that aluminum block.

Sundance 6g72
12-13-2012, 02:27 PM
lol dont let the chevy guys hear you say that haha

Vigo
12-13-2012, 10:53 PM
Yeah somebody made that point in one of those threads.. That if you want to make huge power you arent much if any better off with an LS motor than with a dohc 3.0 turbo. Not that im passing judgment on the LS swap decision, but doing it for 'power reasons' doesnt really hold up.

Ondonti
12-14-2012, 11:32 PM
A true LSX motor made with catalog parts and big displacement (and iron block) is a superior platform in raw numbers but thats what happens when you get catalog parts.

RoadWarrior222
12-15-2012, 11:23 AM
Or at least, that's what happens when you believe catalog numbers.

---------- Post added at 10:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:21 AM ----------

Is it called ricer math when it's about an LSx though? Redneck math?

Ondonti
12-16-2012, 06:26 AM
Well an lsx crate motor is terrible for the $ but so are most crate engines :(
I think you need to get your hands on a cheap block and heads and then build the rest yourself for it to make financial sense. Was looking at the junk email from jegs and the lsx454 is quite pricey and doesn't come with everything you need unless you get the carbed version which is race gas only. I think it was over 13,000 dollars :P
Now, if you are one of those people with friends who throw away nice engines then you are not me :( I remember the ex owner of a dyno I ran on put a ls7/trans combo into a WS6 and it ran decently. Now, if he paid what you and I would have to pay for those parts, it was a crazy bad idea.

RoadWarrior222
12-16-2012, 09:05 AM
Need to find a rotary purist who buys up RX-7s and swaps them back :D