Mods after the basics

[Kryp2nitE]

After:
FWDP Cal (Stage 2)
+40%'s
New BOV
FMIC

Which seem to be the basics,

Whats next that needs upgrading?
What HP is the stock Turbo and Clutch good for?

[zin]

Still kind of in the basic range, but I'd put a full 3" exhaust and maybe fab up a good cold air induction set-up for it.

The stock turbo is pretty small for the potential of the engine, but that will be the start of bigger mods and so you'll need to decide what your goals are for the car. A DD would do well with a mild upgrade, but this can be the start of a long and winding road of upgrades!

Mike

[Kryp2nitE]

Thanks for the input Mike. If the turbo isnt good for much more i wont waste getting a new downpipe but a 3" cat back will work after a new turbo as well.

[turbovanman²]

3" exhaust DP back, 3 bar, 255 fuel pump, then you can upgrade the turbo to either a 50 trim or HE351 and that will put you up around the 4-500 whp range.

[BadAssPerformance]

Both Mike and Simon hit the nail... big exhaust is th enext "bang for the buck" by far...


The stock turbo is pretty small for the potential of the engine,

Stock Garretts can run 12's... Stock Mitsu's can run 13's... both in street cars that have not been gutted


then you can upgrade the turbo to either a 50 trim or HE351 and that will put you up around the 4-500 whp range.

...with supporting mods

As with any question like the OP's... Gotta start here: What are the goals for the car?

[turbovanman²]

...with supporting mods

As with any question like the OP's... Gotta start here: What are the goals for the car?

True and of course the clutch will need upgrading, and LSD also helps, poly bushings.

[Lotashelbys]

First thing to do if not already done is Titanium or modified retainers and timing belt idler relocation. Then some of the above mods lol

[Turbo3Iroc]

Yeah the stock turbo is the next big choke after your mods in post 1. It will be good for 250-275 hp maxed out depending on how aggressive that cal is but the boost will drop off up top limiting the power band. Best drivability will be around 15-17 lbs.

[86seeS]

So im shooting for 11s in my t3 glhs ( brand new to t3's) this the set up I have

Modded retainers
+40s
255pump
Percision 6262
Custom header
Custom cal set for 22lbs
3in exhaust no cat or muffler
Large fmic
Solid mounts
500hp clutch from tu

[turbovanman²]

^^^^^^^^^^That should get you in the 10's.

[86seeS]

Sweet haha

[Kryp2nitE]

A DD would do well with a mild upgrade


Gotta start here: What are the goals for the car?

Car is an every other weekend car, might see the strip to see what it'll do. I've put maybe a tank of gas through it since the first week of Oct. So just a fun street car, really would like to not have to tear into the shortblock other than maybe ARP rod bolts.

Thanks all for the input.

Sounds like the next steps are:
1. Retainers
2. Timing Belt Idler Mod
3. 3" Cat Back
4. Clutch
5. 255 Pump w/ AFPR
6. Turbo and DP (Need to plan this at the same time I upgrade my 12v's turbo as well)


So im shooting for 11s in my t3 glhs ( brand new to t3's) this the set up I have

Modded retainers
+40s
255pump
Percision 6262
Custom header
Custom cal set for 22lbs
3in exhaust no cat or muffler
Large fmic
Solid mounts
500hp clutch from tu

Which clutch is 500hp? I just see tq ratings for them

[turbovanman²]

Car is an every other weekend car, might see the strip to see what it'll do. I've put maybe a tank of gas through it since the first week of Oct. So just a fun street car, really would like to not have to tear into the shortblock other than maybe ARP rod bolts.

Thanks all for the input.

Sounds like the next steps are:
1. Retainers
2. Timing Belt Idler Mod
3. 3" Cat Back
4. Clutch
5. 255 Pump w/ AFPR
6. Turbo and DP (Need to plan this at the same time I upgrade my 12v's turbo as well)



Which clutch is 500hp? I just see tq ratings for them

If TU, purple plate.

If your putting ARP's into it, the rods need resizing so the engine has to come apart.

[86seeS]

Yes purple plate

[Lotashelbys]

You should not need ARP rod bolts as long as your engine has factory rod bolts still. TIII rod botls are the same tensile strength as the standard ARPs. The weakest link in the TIII factory bottom end is the 2pc sintered iron oil rings. After enough detonation they will start to come apart.

[Kryp2nitE]

You should not need ARP rod bolts as long as your engine has factory rod bolts still. TIII rod botls are the same tensile strength as the standard ARPs. The weakest link in the TIII factory bottom end is the 2pc sintered iron oil rings. After enough detonation they will start to come apart.

It has been re-ringed so they are out, ill have to ask Shel Game about if the stock rod bolts were used.

I see three purple plates, ill have to call TU and get some opinions. I had a 4 puck in the old spirit and it was not fun to drive on the street. So it's between the 6 puck and the Kevlar.

Thank you all again for all of the help, we should make a T3 basics sticky at the top!

[30 PSI SHADOW]

You should not need ARP rod bolts as long as your engine has factory rod bolts still. TIII rod botls are the same tensile strength as the standard ARPs. The weakest link in the TIII factory bottom end is the 2pc sintered iron oil rings. After enough detonation they will start to come apart.


Yes this is true. lol! i rectified the problem, venolias and H beams..now.

[Turbo3Iroc]

So im shooting for 11s in my t3 glhs ( brand new to t3's) this the set up I have

Modded retainers
+40s
255pump
Percision 6262
Custom header
Custom cal set for 22lbs
3in exhaust no cat or muffler
Large fmic
Solid mounts
500hp clutch from tu

Nice build up there Wes. Good luck with it.


Yes this is true. lol! i rectified the problem, venolias and H beams..now.

Glad you finally decided to put rods in it too Bill.

[shellboy]

i agree with jackson, go with new retainers(titanium)! wow! what a difference!. and btw i got a yellow plate from turbosunleashed and a four puck and love it. great peddle feel! its soooooo easy at red lights!

[Kryp2nitE]

Car is an every other weekend car, might see the strip to see what it'll do. I've put maybe a tank of gas through it since the first week of Oct. So just a fun street car, really would like to not have to tear into the shortblock other than maybe ARP rod bolts.

Thanks all for the input.

Sounds like the next steps are:
1. Retainers
2. Timing Belt Idler Mod
3. 3" Cat Back
4. Clutch
5. 255 Pump w/ AFPR
6. Turbo and DP (Need to plan this at the same time I upgrade my 12v's turbo as well)



Which clutch is 500hp? I just see tq ratings for them

Just ordered the rest of this list, just have a ported exhaust manifold and FWD cams left and hopefully it will be time to enjoy it for a while. After everything is dialed in.

Thanks again everyone for the input,
and Jackson and Cindy for how much I bug them with emails and phone calls.
and simon for the idler kit.

[turbovanman²]

Your welcome.

What turbo did you go with? Are you putting cams in later?

[Kryp2nitE]

Your welcome.

What turbo did you go with? Are you putting cams in later?

HE351CW, debating if I want to spring the extra $$ for the batmowheel (http://www.xtremediesel.com/bullseyepowerdrop-inhe351batmowheel.aspx) but I think itll be fast enough as is. Jackson is prepping it and going to be running one of his downpipes as well.

Cams will have to be done soon, found a spot that is flaking off on the intake side while doing the retainers and lifters. Not sure how long i'll feel safe running it as is but my 12v needs some downtime to rebuild the trans so I would be driving the Spirit in the meantime.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v308/Kryp2nitE/2012-03-14_18-24-26_17.jpg

As soon as this is done I can get back to working on my 74!

[turbovanman²]

Interesting on the wheel, wonder what it would do? If your not planning on over 500 whp, I'd leave it alone.

Yeah, the lobe is going but I would bet it will last awhile.

I am getting a custom grind done on some cams, muhahhha, :eyebrows: can't wait to try them.

[Kryp2nitE]

Interesting on the wheel, wonder what it would do? If your not planning on over 500 whp, I'd leave it alone.

Yeah, the lobe is going but I would bet it will last awhile.

I am getting a custom grind done on some cams, muhahhha, :eyebrows: can't wait to try them.

The diesel guys are finding big drops in EGT's (150+* going by memory?) from switching to those wheels. I'm guessing the increases surface area of the blades is playing a part in that when the compressor is at speed.

I wouldn't complain if we got to 500 but im guessing it will be a ways off at least for now. If I could drive it for a while at 350-400 whp I would be happy.


I will keep an eye out for how those cams do for you, hopefully well!

[turbovanman²]

Interesting but also diesels can take a shittload more air than we can, :eyebrows:

350-400 whp is a hoot, :nod:

I'll be posting up the test data when done, if it works, I'll offer it. Just what we need, another TIII cam option, lol.

[DodgeZ]

Head gasket, rod bearings, and a new knock sensor.

[Kryp2nitE]

Head gasket, rod bearings, and a new knock sensor.

Head gasket is MP, not sure if the rod bearings were done when it was re-ringed/rebuilt.

The knock sensor required the intake manifold to come off right? Guess it would be good insurance.

[DodgeZ]

Head gasket is MP, not sure if the rod bearings were done when it was re-ringed/rebuilt.

The knock sensor required the intake manifold to come off right? Guess it would be good insurance.

that is good news.

[turbovanman²]

Head gasket is MP, not sure if the rod bearings were done when it was re-ringed/rebuilt.

The knock sensor required the intake manifold to come off right? Guess it would be good insurance.

Yeah, its under the head overhang and behind the intake.

[Kryp2nitE]

I will order a new knock sensor, is it normal for one of the ARP head studs to not go as far down as the others?

It's only a couple threads so it may not be a big deal.

[turbovanman²]

I will order a new knock sensor, is it normal for one of the ARP head studs to not go as far down as the others?

It's only a couple threads so it may not be a big deal.

Did you chase the threads? Remember to NOT bottom out the studs, they must float.

[lengel]

You should be able to change the knock sensor without taking off the intake. You have to remove the breather box in the center of the intake then you have access to the knock sensor with a extension and socket.


Adam

[Kryp2nitE]

Did you chase the threads? Remember to NOT bottom out the studs, they must float.

Previous owner did them but that makes me feel better about them being different depths.


You should be able to change the knock sensor without taking off the intake. You have to remove the breather box in the center of the intake then you have access to the knock sensor with a extension and socket.


Adam

Thanks for the tip, I will try that first!

[DoubleD]

Knock sensor can definitely be done in with the intake manifold still on, its just a PITA. Need patience and you will get it on. Put some tape or paper in the socket so the knock sensor sticks out of the socket and it will go much smoother and quicker.

[Kryp2nitE]

Spirit is going to Mike at MRX Motors for some of the listed upgrades and a couple more.

Made him a list, ill give the cliff notes here to see if I am missing anything.

1. Jackson Idler Mod, with new idler, belt and tensioner.
2. TurbosUnleashed 4 puck ceramic clutch with purple plate
3. FWDP Ported exhaust manifold
4. Jackson prepped HE351CW
5. Jackson Downpipe.
6. 3" Downpipe back, mandrel bent, 3" cut-out, 2 race bullets
7. Balance Shaft removal, sending pan out to Chris at TU for baffling
8. Walbro 255 fuel pump
9. Big XS Power FMIC with 3" piping
10. FWDP Stage 1 Camshafts
13. 4 polybushings replacement mounts.
14. Cryo treated int shaft with new bearings.



Waiting on the new fuel rail from TU since they have switched manufacturer's but sound like they have it sorted out. I've got an AFPR to go with it as well.

What I know I need still:
New boost gauge
New Pyrometer
Wideband
Knock Sensor

I really need to get focused back on my 74 so the spirit will go out for the work. With the engine out is there anything else that should be taken care of?

Chris

[turbovanman²]

Injectors, map, computer if you haven't already done it. I didn't go back and reread the thread.

[Kryp2nitE]

Injectors, map, computer if you haven't already done it. I didn't go back and reread the thread.

+40%'s, GM 3-Bar, FWDP Stage4 installed and working currently!

[440dart]

Once my car started makeing decent power i had one really big issue TRACTION need a posi asap i could do rolling 60mph one wheel peels. I was once passing on a really deep rutted road was doing a smoke show passing a car but since it was rutted really bad traction kept switching from side to side makeing the car jerk from side to side very violently almost makeing me side swipe the car next to me. Burnouts are fun not good for racing.

Good luck with the car you have no idea what you are in for once that intercooler and turbo are upgraded the beast come alive ive only ran 20-23psi 25 once and the jump to 25 felt like going from 12 to 20 have fun

[DoubleD]

Once my car started makeing decent power i had one really big issue TRACTION need a posi asap i could do rolling 60mph one wheel peels. I was once passing on a really deep rutted road was doing a smoke show passing a car but since it was rutted really bad traction kept switching from side to side makeing the car jerk from side to side very violently almost makeing me side swipe the car next to me. Burnouts are fun not good for racing.

Good luck with the car you have no idea what you are in for once that intercooler and turbo are upgraded the beast come alive ive only ran 20-23psi 25 once and the jump to 25 felt like going from 12 to 20 have fun

I agree with this, my car (IROC R/T) with the T3/T4 Hybrid comes to life above 22 psi I have almost lost it into the center divider more than once when the car tries to yank the steering wheel out of my hand. My buddy has a Spirit with the HE341 and that car is flat out violent, it will spin the front tires at 75 on the highway! Cant wait to get my Holset on and sell the Turbonetics turbo, I have had nothing but issues with it.

[440dart]

I agree with this, my car (IROC R/T) with the T3/T4 Hybrid comes to life above 22 psi I have almost lost it into the center divider more than once when the car tries to yank the steering wheel out of my hand. My buddy has a Spirit with the HE341 and that car is flat out violent, it will spin the front tires at 75 on the highway! Cant wait to get my Holset on and sell the Turbonetics turbo, I have had nothing but issues with it.


Once i get it back together iam hopeing for 30+psi i cant imagine what it will feel like then, jacksons car seems pretty impressive, Iam thinking of selling my precision its a little bigger then the holset and going to something a little more suited for my HP goal that way i have little more of a useable powerband.

[Drewsy1971]

Simon hurry up with those cams!!!! Hurry up and get your van back together!!!! :eyebrows: And tell your buddy to get cracking on our headers i dont care what his wife says about having a baby! :D oh and start looking for a quaiffe to put in the iroc .....
Ya my R/T comes alive indeed over 22 psi with the T3/T4 but i have to get a lip welded on the intercooler pipe cause i cant keep it on even with two clamps! :p Now if i could only find some springs for the rear to match the Eibachs on the konis up front.... gonna have to look at getting some custom made to help drop the car!

[turbovanman²]

Yeah, it will be done in the next 2 weeks, have too, Street legals Aug 17th, summer is almost over, :(