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3nglenn
07-26-2006, 07:36 PM
Need help with a 98 Stratus that got dumped in my lap. Hopefully someone can point me the right direction. Car has the 2.5l V-6, 24 valve. Has a very hard time starting but idles ok when it does( with a slight miss). When I touch the gas it stalls immediately. Again, very hard to start but it does eventually. Are codes readable with this model? Can codes be cleared by unhooking the battery? Anywhere to tie in a fuel pressure gauge(can't find a schrader valve)?
Any help or suggestions much appreciated. Thanks G.P.

shadow88
07-26-2006, 09:11 PM
Although it's a mitsubishi engine, it still has all chrysler electronics. Codes can be read with a regular scan tool or drb3, if those aren't available, I think the 3 key cycle may work.

Fuel pressure needs a unique special tool to be attached to the fuel inlet tube. There is no schrader valve.

If I were you, and I assume you don't have access to a scan tool, I'd go the route of checking spark plugs, throttle body cleanliness, and that's about all you're going to get without some special tools. The intake plenum needs to be removed to gain access to the rear plugs.

I hope this helps.

JDAWG
07-26-2006, 10:11 PM
yea codes are readable with a scanner, dont know if you can read them by counting flashes or not, i can tell you a very common problem that is misdianosed quite often is the distributor, and its like $900 from the dealer

3nglenn
07-27-2006, 10:29 AM
Thanks for the info guys. I knew this wasn't gonna be easy... any other info thats available much appreciated... G.P.

JDAWG
07-27-2006, 11:18 AM
yea i was lookin around, you need a scanner, other things i seen that were common were crank sensor, map, and egr

3nglenn
08-01-2006, 07:40 PM
Ok I ended up pulling the fuel pump on the advice of some Chrysler dealer employees here in town. Upon removal of the pump I noticed that the fuel pressure regulator (built in line) had an open hole in the top- shouldn't there be a bolt/screw in the top of the regulator to keep pressure on whatever it is in there to regulate the pressure? I looked at a picture of the pump I'm talking about on some auto parts site and I swear there is a bolt in the top of the regulator can. Can anybody enlighten me....? Thanks for any info. G.P.

shadow88
08-01-2006, 08:02 PM
Maybe this helps, maybe not. I was just holding a fuel pump module from a 97 neon in my hands. The regulator has an open fitting that looks like a vaccuum line would go to it. But, like yours, this one is made to be open.

No bolt, no nothing. Chrysler part too.

3nglenn
08-02-2006, 05:48 AM
Hmm.. the plot thickens... thanks Shadow88! G.P.

JDAWG
08-02-2006, 10:41 AM
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/6294/pumptj8.png

JDAWG
08-02-2006, 10:53 AM
What city you located in? Call a dealer and ask them to pull it out of the box and look at it or go to a dealer that has one and look at it. PN 4897804AC

Turbodave
08-09-2006, 06:56 PM
The problem your describing sounds very much like what was happening to the 95 Stratus that got dumped in my lap a few months ago.

Hard start, idled ok, touch the gas and it falls on it's face, didn't have any codes stored.

I put a rebuilt distributor in, ran fine for a month then the same problem. Replaced the dist again, and now it's been good for 2 months. That was with an Autostoned dist. (lifetime warranty).

The part is close to 1k at the dealer, best price I could find was $208 online (rockauto), but we went to Autozone and got one for around $250 since she needed the car right away. The cap and rotor aren't cheap for that car either.

JDAWG
08-09-2006, 09:12 PM
no they aernt, I have sold a few

3nglenn
08-21-2006, 07:38 PM
First of all thanks to all who have responded. Here's the scoop so far. Fuel pump has been replaced. Fuel pressure is 55# at idle. Plugs are new. Wires are new. Timing checked and on the money. Checked all sensors and all are within spec. New catylitic convertor. No codes. Had it put on a scanner and nothing came up. Have not checked the cam sensor. Bottom line is when the car gets warmed up performance deteriorates and eventually it dies and will not restart. Plugs are flooded with gas at this point also. Have taken attention to a previous post by gkcooper about a 97 Concord and the problems sound similar... any help and input much appreciated. G.P.

shadow88
08-21-2006, 07:52 PM
Is it still hard to start? Are there any codes?

3nglenn
08-21-2006, 08:00 PM
It died after leaving the shop from having the convertor replaced. Sits along the road right now. No codes (check engine light did not come on).

shadow88
08-21-2006, 08:05 PM
It died after leaving the shop from having the convertor replaced. Sits along the road right now. No codes (check engine light did not come on).


That's when it all started? And I figure you mean torque converter.
Or is that the most recent update?

3nglenn
08-21-2006, 08:14 PM
Oops! sorry, I mean the catalytic convertor. This whole nightmare has been going on for 3-4 weeks now. The CC was just replaced today. No change in running conditions...

shadow88
08-21-2006, 08:21 PM
Want an outrageous long shot?

This only happened once at my shop (dealership) The coolant was low, causing the coolant sensor to be misted with coolant particles totally buggering up the fuel mixture.

If it's low, top it up to see if this helps. It's only happened once, but twice is a possibility.;)

3nglenn
08-21-2006, 08:34 PM
Hey Shadow thanks! :thumb: I'll check it out and keep you posted. I've got to call it a night... G.P.

Turbodave
08-23-2006, 03:55 PM
Here's what happened when the dist failed on the 95 I fought with for a couple weeks:

When I first got the car it was really hard to start, and once running had a lack of power. It would idle ok once it was started. Was worse when it was damp out. Car had 125k on original cap and rotor, went to change them and the dist. was all corroded and green inside.

Replaced dist.,cap, and rotor, car ran great. Dropped it back off and she drove it for a few weeks without any problems. Then she complains about it stalling out in intersections. I don't want to see anybody get hurt because of that so I loan her my truck and drive the car. When cold it ran fine, once it started to get warm it would gradually run worse and worse until it almost any throttle input would cause it to fall on it's face. I replaced the dist. again, and it's been fine since. Check engine light never came on, and the problem you described sounds very similar.

JDAWG
08-23-2006, 04:04 PM
classic distributor runaround common problem with those engines. If you want a Mopar one PM me, I'll do what I can.

basically the distributor does the same thing our HEP's do. They get hot and dont work. Being in the area that they are located they are exposed to alot of heat. No internal parts are serviceable though.