Suggestions for a 2 step!

[turbovanman²]

Should have done this along time ago, but what is out there, I don't want or need to buy another ignition system unless I really have too. Still running the factory SMEC and want to keep it that way. Also don't want to spend a fortune, :eyebrows:

[iTurbo]

I remember when I was a kid, my Dad wanted a fence around our house. The neighbors had a nice fence, but we didn't get a long with the neighbors because my Dad was into ham radio and had a large antenna tower outside our house that would interfere with their TV. One day, said neighbors decided to move and they had a big yard sale. They had a bunch of stuff out there, and even the fence was for sale! So my Dad had one of his friends buy it for him so he wouldn't have to deal directly with that pesky neighbor guy. Awkward situation averted!

[wallace]

http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox I've seen it in action on a mustang and it works pretty good. I would hit them up to see if it will work with your setup.

[trannybuster]

I remember when I was a kid, my Dad wanted a fence around our house. The neighbors had a nice fence, but we didn't get a long with the neighbors because my Dad was into ham radio and had a large antenna tower outside our house that would interfere with their TV. One day, said neighbors decided to move and they had a big yard sale. They had a bunch of stuff out there, and even the fence was for sale! So my Dad had one of his friends buy it for him so he wouldn't have to deal directly with that pesky neighbor guy. Awkward situation averted!

LOL....cut it out!

[turbovanman²]

I remember when I was a kid, my Dad wanted a fence around our house. The neighbors had a nice fence, but we didn't get a long with the neighbors because my Dad was into ham radio and had a large antenna tower outside our house that would interfere with their TV. One day, said neighbors decided to move and they had a big yard sale. They had a bunch of stuff out there, and even the fence was for sale! So my Dad had one of his friends buy it for him so he wouldn't have to deal directly with that pesky neighbor guy. Awkward situation averted!

Are you and RW on the same meds? :confused:

---------- Post added at 10:14 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:13 AM ----------


http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox I've seen it in action on a mustang and it works pretty good. I would hit them up to see if it will work with your setup.

Sweet, I'll chat with Neil.

[moparman76_69]

Are you and RW on the same meds? :confused:

I got it but apparently you didn't. He's saying you can have someone else order the box from cindy and avoid the awkward situation of going back and buying it later.



Sweet, I'll chat with Neil.

The wot box isn't Neil's product.

[turbovanman²]

I got it but apparently you didn't. He's saying you can have someone else order the box from cindy and avoid the awkward situation of going back and buying it later.



The wot box isn't Neil's product.

Never got that, lol. I wouldn't do that anyways.

Doh, I thought it was an ND product, but its NP, sigh. Having a bad day, but Neil did answer my PM about it? :confused: :lol:

[22shelby]

ummm alot of the cals floating around have a launch control feature that works very well, but im assuming you already knew that... however im assuming from you saying you dont want to buy "another" ignition system, i can only guess you already have say like a MSD 6AL box or equivilint... a 2 step module is a plug and play to the ignition boxes... this is the system i am using, 6AL box with 2 step module and an adjustable RPM mod.... love this step up, i can sit on the 2 step just below stall all day long, if my trans would allow it... the system is triggered by my brake light switch ;)

[shackwrrr]

I got an n2mb on the way for my spirit, if I still had an 8v I'd try it out. I went with it because its made for a neon with almost the same ignition setup. Just have to add a clutch down. switch.

[turbovanman²]

ummm alot of the cals floating around have a launch control feature that works very well, but im assuming you already knew that... however im assuming from you saying you dont want to buy "another" ignition system, i can only guess you already have say like a MSD 6AL box or equivilint... a 2 step module is a plug and play to the ignition boxes... this is the system i am using, 6AL box with 2 step module and an adjustable RPM mod.... love this step up, i can sit on the 2 step just below stall all day long, if my trans would allow it... the system is triggered by my brake light switch ;)

I have an Aurora coil, but no options for a 2 step etc. The turbonator cal 2 step doesn't work properly, he's working on it.


I got an n2mb on the way for my spirit, if I still had an 8v I'd try it out. I went with it because its made for a neon with almost the same ignition setup. Just have to add a clutch down. switch.

Is that from the link above, post #3?

[Shadow]

The n2mb works great, what I'm using on the Charger.

[bakes]

Simon why do you say the turbator cal 2 step is not working i had it working great on my L.S. i set it to 3500 mash the pedal to the floor and i start building boost 15psi the only problem i had was i didnt choose a off switch so when i went into the burout box i couldn't get the tires to burn with out side stepping the clucth

[turbovanman²]

The n2mb works great, what I'm using on the Charger.

Awesome, good to hear.


Simon why do you say the turbator cal 2 step is not working i had it working great on my L.S. i set it to 3500 mash the pedal to the floor and i start building boost 15psi the only problem i had was i didnt choose a off switch so when i went into the burout box i couldn't get the tires to burn with out side stepping the clucth

I think the auto has something to do with it, maybe Rob fixed it but AFAIK, its still not working properly.

[22shelby]

your going to love the 2 step auto set up, like i said you could go the route of getting a 6AL box and a plug in 2 step module, that Aurora coil would love a MSD box, plus you have the availability to add more items, like a 3-step rev controller or a timing retard... idk what anyone says a MSD box is a great upgrade for ANY car!!! i notice a smoother idle and a MUCH smoother part throttle accel. not to mention i opened up my gaps on the AL63s to .035 also notice a lil less rich at wot....

[turbovanman²]

Yeah, I should have done the 2 step thing years ago, not sure why I didn't, could have saved myself a ton of headache over the years, :banghead:

[shackwrrr]

Yeah the n2mb is what was posted. Its a spark based so if you have a baffled muffler it would die. But I would rather have the bang bang one. Mine has the flat shift too but that wouldn't do anything for the auto.

[Force Fed Mopar]

Why don't you work with Rob to get the T-SMEC 2-step working right?

[turbovanman²]

Why don't you work with Rob to get the T-SMEC 2-step working right?

I am, we have been talking in a PM, lol. So I'll try that and but still want the TCS though, hehehe.

[black86glhs]

How about the Texas 2 step?

[turbovanman²]

How about the Texas 2 step?

Are you offering, big boy? :eyebrows:

[black86glhs]

I just hope you don't have 2 left feet!!:(

[turbovanman²]

Nope, :nod:

[ShelGame]

Why don't you work with Rob to get the T-SMEC 2-step working right?

Does it not work? Someone please tell me if it's definitely not working...

[Force Fed Mopar]

Does it not work? Someone please tell me if it's definitely not working...

Simon says (pun intended) it doesn't work right for him. I haven't tried it at all really. Used to have it in the Daytona, but it didn't bounce fast enough and i turned it off (that was on an LM too). Didn't know as much about tuning then it as I do now either.

[ShelGame]

Simon says (pun intended) it doesn't work right for him. I haven't tried it at all really. Used to have it in the Daytona, but it didn't bounce fast enough and i turned it off (that was on an LM too). Didn't know as much about tuning then it as I do now either.

OK. I know it's not working in the SBEC cals (including the TIII), but I haven't heard from anyone (other than Simon) that it wasn't working in the SMEC cals.

I agree, it's too sluggish, especially in an auto trans car. I back to working on the spark-cut rev limiter. I need to get my SMEC-Stim working...

[Force Fed Mopar]

Yeah in T-LM I had it set to 3k rpm, but it dropped to 2500 every bounce and was pretty slow about it. I tried it at the track and on the street a couple times, I either smoked the tires or bogged. I was always on street tires though.

[ShelGame]

Yeah in T-LM I had it set to 3k rpm, but it dropped to 2500 every bounce and was pretty slow about it. I tried it at the track and on the street a couple times, I either smoked the tires or bogged. I was always on street tires though.

My goal is to get it to hold the RPM to +/- 100rpm at least. 500 rpm sweeps just isn't that usefull for drag racing. Not consistent enough.

[Force Fed Mopar]

I agree. LMK if you need me to test it, I am running a SMEC in the Lebaron w/ a 5-spd. Although I guess you can do it yourself in your Daytona also :) I'm sure Simon can test it in an auto configuration for you.

[turbovanman²]

Yep, I can test away, lol.

[ShelGame]

I agree. LMK if you need me to test it, I am running a SMEC in the Lebaron w/ a 5-spd. Although I guess you can do it yourself in your Daytona also :) I'm sure Simon can test it in an auto configuration for you.

Well, the 'Tona is race only. It's winterized right now - now water and it's up on stands. So, no road testing for me. Though, I can still test run the engine for short periods. Hopefully I'll have something to try in Jan. I'll let you know, for sure I'll need people to test it out...

[bakes]

Just have to set the rpm on and off about 50 to 100 rpm apart works great . ya just have to set the right switches to use and the mph it has to turn off at , i used 6mph.

[Force Fed Mopar]

Yeah I can test anytime pretty much, I am DD'ing the Lebaron right now, my Daytona is down for the winter also for some much-needed overhauling/upgrading.

[ShelGame]

just have to set the rpm on and off about 50to 100 rpm apart works great . ya just have to set the right switches to use adn the mph it has to turn of at i used 6mph

That might work good with a manual, but it still give ~500 rpm swings with an auto if you're brake-torqing it. The fuel cut just isn't cutting it, lol. Besides, with a spark-cut rev limiter, we'll be able to do more cool stuff, like a true staging (bang-bang) anti-lag, shift-without-lift, etc.

[Force Fed Mopar]

Yeah I like spark cut better. Something about cutting fuel while trying to build boost just doesn't sit good with me lol.

[wallace]

I'm using the boost builder and it works pretty good the rpm does swing quite a bit. I get about 8 psi footbraking it. It does haze the tires but I think I can preload the sway bar and make it better. I'm also on some really skinny cheap tires.

[1BADVAN]

I'm using the boost builder and it works pretty good the rpm does swing quite a bit. I get about 8 psi footbraking it. It does haze the tires but I think I can preload the sway bar and make it better. I'm also on some really skinny cheap tires.

Mine swung around a bunch too, but then i narrowed the adjustment and it help a lot!

[RoadWarrior222]

Ghetto RPM controller.

Get an old choke cable.

Sharpen the rod end.

Install knob to dash.

Run cable on hood to above dizzy.

Ground clamp it near the hood hinge.

Bend rod down so it's over dizzy.

Useage.... sharp rod near dizzy will draw spark, the knob in the ----pit adjusts distance between sharp end and dizzy. All the way out should give you normal running, experiment for best setting for RPM limit.

YW :thumb:

[Force Fed Mopar]

Ghetto RPM controller.

Get an old clutch cable.

Sharpen the rod end.

Install knob to dash.

Run cable on hood to above dizzy.

Ground clamp it near the hood hinge.

Bend rod down so it's over dizzy.

Useage.... sharp rod near dizzy will draw spark, the knob in the ----pit adjusts distance between sharp end and dizzy. All the way out should give you normal running, experiment for best setting for RPM limit.

YW :thumb:

What in the ****...??? lol

[bakes]

Ghetto RPM controller.

Get an old clutch cable.

Sharpen the rod end.

Install knob to dash.

Run cable on hood to above dizzy.

Ground clamp it near the hood hinge.

Bend rod down so it's over dizzy.

Useage.... sharp rod near dizzy will draw spark, the knob in the ----pit adjusts distance between sharp end and dizzy. All the way out should give you normal running, experiment for best setting for RPM limit.

YW :thumb:

someone off the meds again????? LOL

[RoadWarrior222]

Doh, meant choke cable.

okay, no like? It do depend on you having crappy wires really.

20% less ghetto RPM limiter.

Get an old choke cable.
Get a spark plug, regular type, low resistance.
Get a 1 inch wide strip of steel.
Get an M14 nut to fit plug.
Drill 14mm hole in one end of metal strip.
Roll the other end up.
Jam that end in the top of your coil.
put sparkplug in hole, secure with nut.
Jam your coil wire on the plug.
Run choke cable to near coil.
Put a thin copper wedge, attached to an insulating block on the end of the choke cable.
Rig it so the choke cable can shove the wedge in and out of the plug gap but makes light contact when all the way in.
Now, set gap to RPM limit with wedge out/choke out.
Choke fully in should be normal operation.
Choke partly in with wedge near gap should give you something between limit and normal max.
Works by delaying spark, adding retard, voltage has to build across plug to jump before it can discharge.
May be possible to find gap setting by setting it wide, then adusting wedge carefully until it limits where you want.
Measure very carefully, largest gap between wedge and either side of the spark gap.
Set gap to that and test.
Tweak to smaller gap for higher RPM, larger for lower.
Use by pulling knob out, hitting limit, then slamming it in when you want out (Closing gap with wedge)

---------- Post added at 09:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:53 PM ----------

Note, any other mounting of spark plug should be insulating. Non resistor power equipment type plug may work better (But knock out TV/Radio)

[Force Fed Mopar]

How is that 20% less ghetto lmao.

[MILKCARTON]

someone off the meds again????? LOL


No.... just he is just seeing if he can completely kill this thread. "WAAC"

[bakes]

no.... Just he is just seeing if he can completely kill this thread. "waac"

oh i see

[RoadWarrior222]

And now, the 22/7 less ghetto, it's almost shadetree, coil interrupter...

Get an old choke cable (Yes I cornered the market on choke cables and intend to profit hugely)
get an old wood baseball bat.
Get some grounding straps
Some chunks of perspex or other insulating material.
Copper sheet.
Cut a triangle out of copper sheet with a base a little over pi times internal alternator pulley diameter.
cut bit out of baseball bat same diameter one end as the inside of your alt pulley.
Wrap copper triangle round section of bat with base at one end apex at other.
Hammer into alt pulley.
Make insulating clamp for ground strap, mount to end of choke cable.
Put end of choke cable over alt so it can move the ground strap up and down the lump of bat.
Put another bit of ground cable between alt case and trailing on back of alt pulley (Stops arcing of bearings if you're really gonna try this)
Mount coil on insulator, use ground strap to end of choke cable, in clamp so it rides on the bit of bat with copper triangle on it.
When the coil ground is on the base of the triangle, it makes contact all the time... when it is moved up by the choke cable it is interrupted for a small period at first, and a large period at the apex of the triangle.
Adjust and add stops for best results.

[MILKCARTON]

Dude..... really?

[RoadWarrior222]

No.... just he is just seeing if he can completely kill this thread. "WAAC"Really I was attempting to demonstrate that screwing with the spark isn't really rocket surgery and prompt discussion about lowbuck options.

There might be more sensible ones, like an old type dizzy vacuum advance mechanism rigged to retard when boost was applied though a solenoid.

[shackwrrr]

On other thought about cheap versions (99.9% less ghetto than even the 20% less ghetto version). I knew someone that had a cheap tach with a shift light. He tapped into the shift light wires and used them to activate a normally closed relay attached to the coil feed. He would then set the shift light to where he wanted the 2 step and when the relay was activated it would cut spark

[Force Fed Mopar]

I guess you'd have to turn said relay off after launching?

[turbovanman²]

Wow, :confused:

[shackwrrr]

I guess you'd have to turn said relay off after launching?

Forgot the circuit that connected it to the clutch switch

[RoadWarrior222]

That's pretty clean and simple. I guess in an auto you'd rig a relay to the brake switch/lights.

[ShelGame]

You know... I bet it would work pretty well if I just retarded the timing a whole bunch to control the RPM. Instead of trying to cut the spark completely. I might have to give that a try...

Though, I suspect it will tend to make the exhaust parts VERY toasty since much of the fuel will be burning in the exhaust. Should help spool up even more, though.

[turbovanman²]

Hopefully in January, we can get this worked out, can't wait, :nod:

[roachjuice]

mine works pretty good. i have to see what i have it set at in the cal. but it builds boost and sounds pretty cool!

---------- Post added at 12:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:19 PM ----------

i would rather the spark cut though.

[22shelby]

You know... I bet it would work pretty well if I just retarded the timing a whole bunch to control the RPM. Instead of trying to cut the spark completely. I might have to give that a try...

Though, I suspect it will tend to make the exhaust parts VERY toasty since much of the fuel will be burning in the exhaust. Should help spool up even more, though.

oohooo that may just do it, thats how the "pop pop bang bang" work, retard a bunch of timing, dump raw fuel into the exhaust housing where it then explodes... builds a bunch of boost but also WILL take a toll on your turbo... i laugh at these ricers that sit in parking lots having "anti lag wars" just thinking "and you wonder why you need a new turbo in 10,000 miles"... but when its used correctly, it can definitely be very efficient

[dds78910]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-62113/
I saw Dr. Evil had this on his spirit r/T, it seemed to work well. I ended up buying one off ebay for $200 but I haven't put in on yet.

[turbovanman²]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-62113/
I saw Dr. Evil had this on his spirit r/T, it seemed to work well. I ended up buying one off ebay for $200 but I haven't put in on yet.

Nice, but for that kind of money, I'll work with Rob or get the WOT box, :nod:

[roachjuice]

Ghetto RPM controller.

Get an old choke cable.

Sharpen the rod end.

Install knob to dash.

Run cable on hood to above dizzy.

Ground clamp it near the hood hinge.

Bend rod down so it's over dizzy.

Useage.... sharp rod near dizzy will draw spark, the knob in the ----pit adjusts distance between sharp end and dizzy. All the way out should give you normal running, experiment for best setting for RPM limit.

YW :thumb:

RoadWarrior222 translates to Mac Gyver in Canadian.

[bakes]

You know... I bet it would work pretty well if I just retarded the timing a whole bunch to control the RPM. Instead of trying to cut the spark completely. I might have to give that a try...

Though, I suspect it will tend to make the exhaust parts VERY toasty since much of the fuel will be burning in the exhaust. Should help spool up even more, though.
just add it to nitrous retard some how

[ShelGame]

just add it to nitrous retard some how

Actually, I'm thinking I'll just convert the anti lag routine to be an anti-lag/staging limiter.

I have a spark cut code ready to test, I want to get this idea coded, too. Then I'll try them on my car and let a couple of other guys test them.

[moparman76_69]

Actually, I'm thinking I'll just convert the anti lag routine to be an anti-lag/staging limiter.

I have a spark cut code ready to test, I want to get this idea coded, too. Then I'll try them on my car and let a couple of other guys test them.

If I have anything up and running I'll help you test since the van isn't my daily.

[bakes]

Actually, I'm thinking I'll just convert the anti lag routine to be an anti-lag/staging limiter.

I have a spark cut code ready to test, I want to get this idea coded, too. Then I'll try them on my car and let a couple of other guys test them.
You know im more then happy to test 2.2 5sp smec for ya when your ready.