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8valves
11-27-2011, 04:52 PM
Well this will serve as a follow up to the thread about the van intercooler. This weekend my friend Zach and I got to work doing a GT35R setup on his Evo. We started on it early friday morning and finished it up to take it out to the local meet by saturday night at 9:30, so it went pretty damn well!

This will be mostly pictures, as there are a lot, start to finish.

Enjoy!

Getting the car situated in the AMotion garage...

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1604.jpg

As is, EVO9 turbo setup on a cheapie manifold...

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1606.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1608.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1609.jpg

Old IC plumbing we made had to move to allow clearance...

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1610.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1612.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1613.jpg

Me getting busy... gotta love the chair!

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1615.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1618.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1619.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1620.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1621.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1622.jpg

Turbo mock up positioning. At this point the heim joint brace was done, and the downpipe will be done first as the design of the header could prevent the DP from getting back under the oil pan if there wasn't room alloted for it. You have to remember order of operations in a full system build like this, so you don't end up having to change/cut stuff up afterwards.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1624.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1625.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1626.jpg

8valves
11-27-2011, 05:00 PM
Downpipe started...

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1628.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1631.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1632.jpg

Remember to NOT use the flex section to make it fit, because then it's not really a flex section anymore. It needs to be at rest in the system when cold.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1633.jpg

On to the wastegate and secondary with collector location. Lots of thought has to go into this as for turbo and turbo line clearance, vacuum routing, wastegate positioning, clearance to wiring/sensors with appropriate heat shields if necessary, diameter, and collector positioning to make sure the primaries will clear everything without having any cheated bends/miter cuts. This is why the downpipe was done first.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1634.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1637.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1638.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1639.jpg

Now onto the primaries! Keep nice gradual bends in mind, and you need a plan before you start running tubes anywhere. Radiator clearance, bolt access, length of primaries, radius bends you have available, etc.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1642.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1643.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1645.jpg

Now we're getting somewhere!

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1646.jpg

The collector I made for it...

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1648.jpg

8valves
11-27-2011, 05:08 PM
Once all the tubes are tacked together it gets removed and broken down into individual primaries and welded. Then fit back on to the car and tacked again to ensure location, then final welded.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1649.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1651.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1653.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1654.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1655.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1656.jpg

While the header was off and being welded the downpipe got wrapped and lower charge pipe were done since the turbo location has been finalized.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1659.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1657.jpg

And there it is! Just some small pieces like a custom upper water pipe made, etc.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1662.jpg

And it's running! With a brushed SS header and tubing like this it is imperative to clean all surfaces thoroughly before first fireup so that gorgeous gold color can come through. Now it's time for some tuning and driving!

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1664.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1666.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1667.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1668.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1669.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1670.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1671.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1674.jpg

Car is wrapped up and on it's way home. Not bad for a weekend! His larger injectors didn't fit into the intake well so we had to leave the car on minor power for now. So soon the fuel system will be brought up to spec with the rest of the car with some 1200cc injectors and I will dial it in and have it running good on the AEM in no time.

The sounds it makes now are just wicked, and the local guys freaked out seeing under the hood. It's always nice to hear, "man, where did you buy THAT!?"

Hope you guys enjoyed it!

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1677.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1679.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/Eight_Valves/Fabricated%20Pieces/Zach%20Caruso%20EVO/102_1681.jpg

BoostedDrummer
11-27-2011, 05:12 PM
That looks wicked!

zin
11-27-2011, 05:14 PM
Very nice work! I'm happy to see the collector is sequential, most don't know to do that!

Mike

Mopar318
11-27-2011, 05:20 PM
Awesome work. What type and thickness of tubing do you use? Stainless Chinese weld-els never look that good after warmup!

Now you have made the manifold bolts look like poop, time for some trick hardware.

BadAssPerformance
11-27-2011, 05:21 PM
Beautiful work as always :clap:

8valves
11-27-2011, 05:23 PM
Awesome work. What type and thickness of tubing do you use? Stainless Chinese weld-els never look that good after warmup!

Now you have made the manifold bolts look like poop, time for some trick hardware.

That's all SS304 .063" wall tubing. I don't prefer to do sch10 manifolds unless it's for a rediculously abused road race car. I honestly just don't like how they look.

Funny you mentioned that! He's getting all ARP hardware for the system to match the looks.

Thanks for the compliments! It was a lot of fun but we are both ready to relax and enjoy the weekend a bit.

turboshad
11-27-2011, 05:32 PM
Looks great Aaron!! When welding the primaries seperately how do you keep them from pulling? Is there any muscle work need to get them realigned when putting it all back together?

rx2mazda
11-27-2011, 05:50 PM
...Is there any muscle work need to get them realigned when putting it all back together?

if there is, you in trouble! lol.

Nice work Aaron!

Force Fed Mopar
11-27-2011, 05:56 PM
I can honestly say that I would have no problem letting you do anything on my car :) Excellent work.

8valves
11-27-2011, 07:24 PM
Looks great Aaron!! When welding the primaries seperately how do you keep them from pulling? Is there any muscle work need to get them realigned when putting it all back together?

Now you know why I haven't had the time to go through those PM's or drawings from you DJ! Haha!

No not really. It's an extremely tight fit to begin with, but I allow for zero gaps on the primary seams and have at least 4 tacks per joint before finish welding. If you notice I make the collector out of 1 7/8" so the 1 3/4" tubing slip fits into it, then it gets welded. This makes the fitment much more precise, not allowing any mismatching of the primary to the collector. A little tap of the BFH and the tubing gets stuck back where it started per some marks and then it is finish welded.

168glhs1986
11-27-2011, 08:12 PM
It's always nice to hear, "man, where did you buy THAT!?"

Aaron, I'd like to buy one of the headers for my GLHS, how much?....lol

8valves
11-27-2011, 08:53 PM
Aaron, I'd like to buy one of the headers for my GLHS, how much?....lol

I would love to build something like this for a Turbo Mopar. There's a whole new world of appearance and power waiting for those that end up going a similar route to this.

turbovanmanČ
11-27-2011, 09:06 PM
I hate you, :( but in a good way, :eyebrows:

That is simply awesome, :hail:

Makes me want to get my new header done sooner than later.

86seeS
11-27-2011, 09:12 PM
Amazing work man!!!

fishcleaner
11-27-2011, 09:37 PM
I hate you, :( but in a good way, :eyebrows:

That is simply awesome, :hail:

Couldn't have been said any better. Want to share some of your secrets on cutting tubing and how you calculate the cut angle lengths?

8valves
11-27-2011, 09:49 PM
Thanks everyone!

Secrets? Well, as far as fitment goes. I hate to sound arrogant somewhat but 95% of it is eyeball measurements. I think I've just done it enough to learn how/when to eyeball it and not. Sometimes you can throw a little math in for simple situations like running 90* to the head, but higher or lower than the exhaust port can be achieved simply but cutting a 90* bend without altering it's radius and rotating the two pieces to achieve your desired height.

Other than that, I always keep my box of small pieces of scrap that were misfits or remnants from other projects, that way you can test fit just the angle by tacking a piece of straight onto it. Too much angle for what you need? No problem, match the scrap piece to the same radius fresh piece and trace it out adjust the angle accordingly. Same goes for the leg off of the bend. Do that and voila, you eliminate having excess weld seams with little pieces all over, which also tend to warp and move the tube during finish welding a lot more.

That's tough to put in words, but can you visualize what I'm saying?

fishcleaner
11-27-2011, 10:19 PM
That's tough to put in words, but can you visualize what I'm saying?
yea, you're just better at it than me, what do you use to cut the tubing, bandsaw or chopbox, the cuts look great

cordes
11-27-2011, 10:30 PM
So you're saying we just need to practice.

Very nice work. Impressive as usual to say the least. I feel like I've totally squandered a day off to boot.

Directconnection
11-27-2011, 10:36 PM
So no templates of any sorts?

I wish I could weld as good as you..... I have little welding experience.

54inches
11-27-2011, 10:38 PM
I wish you were closer as i would love a header for the NA 2.2 Rampage.

8valves
11-27-2011, 10:42 PM
yea, you're just better at it than me, what do you use to cut the tubing, bandsaw or chopbox, the cuts look great

A Wilton 8201K vertical band saw. It was one of the first things I got when I bought my house, as there isn't a whole lot you can't do with it. I use a Lennox blade that isn't cheap at $47 a piece, but they're worth their weight in gold.


So you're saying we just need to practice.

Very nice work. Impressive as usual to say the least. I feel like I've totally squandered a day off to boot.

Pretty much. The big key is when you cut something and it doesn't work, is to figure out why. If you just toss it and try again you'll end up with a big pile of junk tubing.

Nope, no templates on one off pieces. On headers that I reproduce I'll sometimes make some paper templates to help guide me through it quicker. Sometimes they just don't work out perfectly. Still working on that one.

BadAssPerformance
11-27-2011, 10:49 PM
Lennox blade that isn't cheap at $47 a piece, but they're worth their weight in gold.

Is that a brand or a type? You're right, cheap blades wont make it thru one SS tube LOL

turbovanmanČ
11-27-2011, 10:59 PM
That's tough to put in words, but can you visualize what I'm saying?

Yep, I just don't have the bandsaw or welder/plus tig experience, but for what I do, its not worth the money, I'd never pay off the equipment.

8valves
11-27-2011, 11:03 PM
Brand. I think the tooth count is 14/in. I can't recall off hand, I keep a PN tag around so I get the right one, haha!

---------- Post added at 10:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:02 PM ----------

It would be hard to without the experience or pictures of work to show off to gain more jobs. If you have the experience already the equipment can be paid off in one larger size job with the good deals out there on used shop equipment.

cordes
11-27-2011, 11:42 PM
Brand. I think the tooth count is 14/in. I can't recall off hand, I keep a PN tag around so I get the right one, haha!

---------- Post added at 10:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:02 PM ----------

It would be hard to without the experience or pictures of work to show off to gain more jobs. If you have the experience already the equipment can be paid off in one larger size job with the good deals out there on used shop equipment.

Without getting too nosy, what would a decent home setup capable of making that header run me?

fishcleaner
11-27-2011, 11:44 PM
thanks for the info, a nice vertical bandsaw is on my wish list

BadAssPerformance
11-28-2011, 12:05 AM
Cutting:
Band saw - I have $100 into one I got used
or
Chop Saw - I have a 10" compond miter saw I got for $70 at menards plus a $10 metal cutting fiber blade from rAce Hardware
or
Pnumatic cut off wheel

Welding:
Decent TIG welder - $1500-$2000 (Miller Diversion 180 can eb had for $1500... my Miller Syncrowave 250 was $2000

Fabbing:
Mad Skillz - Priceless

---------- Post added at 10:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:04 PM ----------


Brand. I think the tooth count is 14/in. I can't recall off hand, I keep a PN tag around so I get the right one, haha!.

Cool deal, I'll have to see what they got in 80"

Mopar318
11-28-2011, 12:09 AM
For me

Cutting: Sawzaw with lennox or dewalt blades or vertical bandsaw. Really want a horiztonal! Sawzaw-$100, Bandsaw...Free?
Pneumatic cutoff wheel...hours of cursing with crooked cuts!
Welder: Lincoln Precision 225 TIG. About 2k Brand new.
Helmet: $200, get a cheap one, and once again hours more of cursing!

Vigo
11-28-2011, 12:11 AM
Great work, thanks for sharing!

He must have some pretty stiff mounts to be able to run that hardpipe for the upper radiator hose. Seems like relatively small rotation of the motor would end up being a pretty big movement at the end of that pipe, and that short hose section wouldnt give more than about 1/2" without putting major stress on the pipe. I'm sure that was all considered before building if you had anything to do with it. :)

BadAssPerformance
11-28-2011, 12:12 AM
+1 forgot about a Helmet... I caught an older Miller auto-shade on its way to the trash bin at the Miller Development Center :)

Mopar318
11-28-2011, 12:14 AM
+1 forgot about a Helmet... I caught an older Miller auto-shade on its way to the trash bin at the Miller Development Center :)

Nice, I need to hang around places like that. I had a cheapo helmet at one point, It went flying across the shop a few times after it kept flashing me while welding Al.:D

BadAssPerformance
11-28-2011, 12:23 AM
Ouch! Yeah, I was about to buy a $40 special from HF when this one popped up... Too bad there's no company discount on the welders adn stuff tho :(

Shadow
11-28-2011, 12:32 AM
So ID of that tubing = 1 5/8" for the primaries?

Directconnection
11-28-2011, 12:39 AM
JT: tooth count is important, as is speed and feed (more important)

General rule of thumb without me calculating an rpm via surface speed, etc... is the nastier the material, the slower you need to go on rpm (and keep a heavy feed into it, not light) Light feeds mean the cutter rubs vs. cut. Use a good oil, too.

Also, once you break a tooth.... the blade is all downhill from there. So, no Simon Blades tm (ie: only 5 teeth left)


Sorry Simon.... you're the only guy I could think of to poke fun at....(couldn't remember the guy on TD banned from here)

turbovanmanČ
11-28-2011, 01:08 AM
JT: tooth count is important, as is speed and feed (more important)

General rule of thumb without me calculating an rpm via surface speed, etc... is the nastier the material, the slower you need to go on rpm (and keep a heavy feed into it, not light) Light feeds mean the cutter rubs vs. cut. Use a good oil, too.

Also, once you break a tooth.... the blade is all downhill from there. So, no Simon Blades tm (ie: only 5 teeth left)


Sorry Simon.... you're the only guy I could think of to poke fun at....(couldn't remember the guy on TD banned from here)

You mean the guy in your sig???? :confused:

black86glhs
11-28-2011, 01:12 AM
Aaron you do some seriously great work. It does me no good to get anything now, but when the new house gets bought, I am seriously looking into a band saw, drill press, and a cut off saw.

turboshad
11-28-2011, 01:33 AM
Now you know why I haven't had the time to go through those PM's or drawings from you DJ! Haha!



Lol, no problem. It's not like it's something I will be fabbing or trying to fab for at least a couple or more months.

I knew there was a BFH involved in there somewhere ;) Do you MIG tack or TIG tack? Although I guess if your friend is around then TIG tacking isn't a real problem.

BadAssPerformance
11-28-2011, 01:48 AM
Although I guess if your friend is around then TIG tacking isn't a real problem.

LOL, hard to beat the hand fixtures!

If the pipes are butted up tight you can sometimes tack w/o filler rod

8valves
11-28-2011, 02:12 PM
Without getting too nosy, what would a decent home setup capable of making that header run me?

If you add in a belt sander, metal work bench, welding materials, bottle, band saw, blades etc... it can get pricey. For good quality stuff you'll be around 3K. Sounds like JT and some others have gotten some great deals on stuff. My band saw was over $500 used.


Nice, I need to hang around places like that. I had a cheapo helmet at one point, It went flying across the shop a few times after it kept flashing me while welding Al.:D

Exactly why I don't use an AD helmet. :) Old school Jackson with a gold #12 lens.


So ID of that tubing = 1 5/8" for the primaries?

That's correct. With a 2" ID secondary.


Lol, no problem. It's not like it's something I will be fabbing or trying to fab for at least a couple or more months.

I knew there was a BFH involved in there somewhere ;) Do you MIG tack or TIG tack? Although I guess if your friend is around then TIG tacking isn't a real problem.

All TIG tacks. I don't even have a MIG, haha! I can usually tack just on fusion because the seams are nice enough. If not, a little sharpie with three lines to mark where it should go and I can tack it off the car.


LOL, hard to beat the hand fixtures!

If the pipes are butted up tight you can sometimes tack w/o filler rod

Exactly.

BadAssPerformance
11-28-2011, 02:38 PM
If you add in a belt sander, metal work bench, welding materials, bottle, band saw, blades etc... it can get pricey. For good quality stuff you'll be around 3K. Sounds like JT and some others have gotten some great deals on stuff. My band saw was over $500 used.

I bet your band saw is a lot nicer than my POS, LOL

8valves
11-28-2011, 05:07 PM
Sorry that should be 2 1/8" ID secondary.

Reeves
11-28-2011, 06:02 PM
Nice work man.

Shadow
11-28-2011, 08:28 PM
Nice work man.

X2, you make it look easy! :clap:

Mopar318
11-28-2011, 11:26 PM
I bet your band saw is a lot nicer than my POS, LOL

Word..I have a Tit Band-saw. Yes, this is a Taiwan tool back before Chinese tools were even around! I thank my dad for that POS.