Trans swap and axle install questions

[nschultz0124]

So I had the trans in my 89 shelby TII die on me and i got a replacement for it. While removeing the broken trans i found that the axles are shot so I need to replace those as well. Are there any threads out there as far as best practice on doing this? Are there any seals that i should be replacing? Do i need to grease the axle splines at all when installing? Should i replace the u-joint on the intermediate shaft while it is apart (yes i was able to separate the intermediate from the axle. Came out like butter.)? I have the haynes and chiltons books, but neither say anything about this. Is there a certain brand of axle i should stay away from due to it just being crap?

Thanks in advance!

[Vigo]

If you've already dropped the trans then you basically know how to swap an axle. There is no real trick to it, they just slide into the trans and hubs and dont have to be splined a certain way or anything like that.

The only seals you might need to replace would be the axle seals on the transmission, but if you got a rebuilt trans, it should already have them on it. Otherwise they are $3-10 depending on where you get them but any parts store should be able to get them.

You dont need to add anything to the inboard splines as they go into the diff area which is lubricated by the trans fluid. The outer splines could use a touch of grease just to make them eaiser to get out next time and to prevent the splines forming a rust bond in the spindle. :p

As for the u-joint on that intermediate shaft, i couldnt tell you because i have always swapped it out for a 1pc axle when i got the chance for simplicity's sake, and to get a little more ease of access back there with the axle in.

Also, dont worry about trying to set any accurate torque on the outer axle nuts. Whatever your 1/2" air impact will do is fine. :)

[turbovanman²]

Move the u-joint thru its angles, it should be smooth with no play, if you feel rough spots or play, replace it, here are some part numbers.

Also, refill the trans with Redline MTL or synchromesh, its better than using engine oil, which is factory fill.


Non greaseable U-Joints are the best to run or the next best thing is the grease fitting in the cap, a stronger setup than the nipple in the actual joint.
Precision brand #245 is super strength non-greasable
246-same but greasable

Bruteforce- bf1-6301 is the 245
bf1-6300 is same as 246.

Spicer and others make them too but at least these can be crossed over at a parts store.