Lengel's Spirit R/T puts down 629whp @ 33psi on mustang Dyno.....Video

[rx2mazda]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRk7z1umtGo


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRo_981V6KU

[Vigo]

Wow! Congratulations Lengel!!

[Shadow]

HAHA! Nice, and about time Someone layed down some #'s with a 16v!!!!!!!! :thumb:

What size turbo? Dyno sheet??????

[dds78910]

Very impressive! WOW!

[Black93RT]

:hail:

Very nice Lengel! Your fabrication/machining skills speak for themselves. Thanks for choosing the TIII to play with!

[turboshad]

Awesome job Lengel!! Are there some print outs that can be posted hopefully with RPM? I've been considering a 67mm turbo for mine but it's hard finding 4cyl dyno sheets using one. Is it DBB or journal? I can't wait to see your car at SDAC 22 :eyebrows:

[Pat]

Great work Adam!

[turbo2point2]

Great work Adam!

x2 :thumb:

[89FerrariShelby]

Congratulations!!!!

Jesus Christ! When that thing hits boost it sounds like a jet...i bet if you put some wings on the side you could get liftoff too with those #'s....

[lengel]

Thanks guys

HAHA! Nice, and about time Someone layed down some #'s with a 16v!!!!!!!! :thumb:

What size turbo? Dyno sheet??????

its 67mm turbo. Ill get the dyno sheet up tonight when I get home from work


Awesome job Lengel!! Are there some print outs that can be posted hopefully with RPM? I've been considering a 67mm turbo for mine but it's hard finding 4cyl dyno sheets using one. Is it DBB or journal? I can't wait to see your car at SDAC 22 :eyebrows:

It a precision gt3767 Journal bearing whit a 58ar hotside. Ill get the sheet up for you tonight

[turboshad]

T4 .58A/R I'm assuming?

[rx2mazda]

Yeah Lengel, since you don't have a build thread on here(but on TD.com :fail:)you need to fill everybody in on specifics. Stage head/Cams? ECU? etc...:D

Guess that intake is working? :eyebrows:

[Directconnection]

Totally cool! Now I can finally stop referencing Larry's 500whp terror and jump into modern times and reference your's. Yes, everyone will now want the lowdown... Can't wait.

[turbovanman²]

That's awesome, :hail: That means on a Dynojet, he's probably over 700 whp? holy shitt, :faint:

What was the camera guy in the first vid doing at the end? :confused: :lol:

[Directconnection]

I just watched both vids over and over.... :p

Adam, can you post your graphs, too? Wondering what rpm things take off for you, and at what rpm you are shutting it down? Full boost around 4,800 and 8,000 rpms max rpm?

[8valves]

Goddamn!

[MNmopar]

Great googly moogly!

[turbovanman²]

Found this over at TD, sorry Lengel, :eyebrows:


yeah no more power stearing, hope its not too hard to stear without it.
Sorry about the lack of details. I didnt have time to go in to detail when I posted the pictures.

Bottom end has a rare 2.4 crank for a common block, 4 bolt main caps, Oliver rods, JE pistons, and the block is partially filled.

Head is heavily ported with custom vavles, springs, retainers, stage 1 cams,with addjustible cam gears

SMP header with full 3 inch exhaust (no cat)

Precision GT3767S turbo

Precision intercooler with 3" pipeing up to a BBK 70mm TB

Tial 50mm BOV & 44mm WG

custom made aluminum rad.

aluminum fuel cell, aeromotive 1000 fuel pump, aeromotve regulator, billet high flow fuel rail, and FAST 1680cc injecters

running the stock A568 with a quaif

[omni_840]

WOW! Awesome job:nod:

[omnigoestohell]

the car sounds real good adam, awesome work. what rpm does the boost kick in at with that turbo?
seth

[168glhs1986]

Nice work Adam! You running a stand alone ems?

[rx2mazda]

Nice work Adam! You running a stand alone ems?

Bigstuff3 :thumb:

[turbovanman²]

I will have to copy his heater core idea, :nod:

[Ondonti]

You can't assume that mustang dyno numbers can be "inflated" into dynojet numbers. If you want to inflate them, talk about crank HP ;)

4 cylinder + 67mm is very common for dyno sheets. Look up Buscher evo stuff. they have run 8's on a 67mm. Based on cams and housing I have seen them spool over 6000 rpms or right below 5000 rpms.

[turbovanman²]

You can't assume that mustang dyno numbers can be "inflated" into dynojet numbers. If you want to inflate them, talk about crank HP ;)


Sure I can, because its true, :p

[Shadow]

It a precision gt3767 Journal bearing whit a 58ar hotside. Ill get the sheet up for you tonight

Pressure tap? Drive pressure readings? (this would be great info!)

What ID is your header?

[BadAssPerformance]

Awesome, nice work! :clap:

[lengel]

Yeah Lengel, since you don't have a build thread on here(but on TD.com :fail:)you need to fill everybody in on specifics. Stage head/Cams? ECU? etc...:D

Guess that intake is working? :eyebrows:

Yeah I know! I made that progress log on TD before I was on here alot, and Im to lazy to make one over here. maybe this will kick me in the butt to start one.



Totally cool! Now I can finally stop referencing Larry's 500whp terror and jump into modern times and reference your's. Yes, everyone will now want the lowdown... Can't wait.

Yeah Ill get some up soon


That's awesome, :hail: That means on a Dynojet, he's probably over 700 whp? holy shitt, :faint:

What was the camera guy in the first vid doing at the end? :confused: :lol:

I was walking over to the screen to show what it made.


I just watched both vids over and over.... :p

Adam, can you post your graphs, too? Wondering what rpm things take off for you, and at what rpm you are shutting it down? Full boost around 4,800 and 8,000 rpms max rpm?


the car sounds real good adam, awesome work. what rpm does the boost kick in at with that turbo?
seth

I just to a look at that log and I 27lb at 5000rpm and 33lb at 5600rpm

[Directconnection]

I will have to copy his heater core idea, :nod:

Ok, clue me in on this one.

FWIW: Adam is a really cool and honest "dude" that I've dealt with in the past. I've once said his ideas and CNC work are an asset to this community, and now his car lays down some serious hi-po numbers. I knew he was building a monster... but didn't think it was going to be a 600+ terror. Now I can't wait to see what it does on 38psi!

BTW: I'm really surprised (actually disappointed) this hasn't gone viral here on TM.

[turbovanman²]

I was walking over to the screen to show what it made.



I kept looking and only saw parameters and not any power readings, hence why I asked, ;)


Ok, clue me in on this one.

FWIW: Adam is a really cool and honest "dude" that I've dealt with in the past. I've once said his ideas and CNC work are an asset to this community, and now his car lays down some serious hi-po numbers. I knew he was building a monster... but didn't think it was going to be a 600+ terror. Now I can't wait to see what it does on 38psi!

BTW: I'm really surprised (actually disappointed) this hasn't gone viral here on TM.

He had to change his heater core, his new one was aluminium, so he welded some AN bungs on it.

I agree, stand up guy, but give it time, people are still at work and getting home now, they don't live on here like we do, :nod:

[Force Fed Mopar]

Congrats! That makes it the most powerful TIII to date, correct?

[black86glhs]

Not bad numbers.

[lengel]

Pressure tap? Drive pressure readings? (this would be great info!)

What ID is your header?

Sorry I dont have any drive pressure reading. I do think it would make more power with a larger housing the hp per lb started droping around 28lb. I cant remeber the Id size of the header. I did not make this, its a lonewolf header.


Ok, clue me in on this one.

FWIW: Adam is a really cool and honest "dude" that I've dealt with in the past. I've once said his ideas and CNC work are an asset to this community, and now his car lays down some serious hi-po numbers. I knew he was building a monster... but didn't think it was going to be a 600+ terror. Now I can't wait to see what it does on 38psi!

BTW: I'm really surprised (actually disappointed) this hasn't gone viral here on TM.

Thanks man that means alot to me!


I kept looking and only saw parameters and not any power readings, hence why I asked, ;)



He had to change his heater core, his new one was aluminium, so he welded some AN bungs on it.

I agree, stand up guy, but give it time, people are still at work and getting home now, they don't live on here like we do, :nod:

If you look close when I zoom in it says 629hp on the left 482tq on the right, the number are small.


T4 .58A/R I'm assuming?

yup T4


Congrats! That makes it the most powerful TIII to date, correct?

No the SMP charger I think had to be near 1000hp

[Force Fed Mopar]

Ok, second most powerful :D Big congrats still. BTW I posted the vid over on TSC.com about 20 mins ago and it already has 40 views :thumb:

[mcsvt]

Great work! Always look forward to your posts :thumb: Really enjoyed looking over your engine bay at Cecil.

[lengel]

I think his printer was running out of ink. If its not clear I will take it to work and copy it darker.

http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo237/bethany017/dynosheet2.jpg


Ok, second most powerful :D Big congrats still. BTW I posted the vid over on TSC.com about 20 mins ago and it already has 40 views :thumb:

[168glhs1986]

Great work! Always look forward to your posts :thumb: Really enjoyed looking over your engine bay at Cecil.

I was too busy trying to learn how to drag race and I didn't get to see his car. Just read the entire build thread on td.com. Can't wait to see it next year.

[Vigo]

So you're basically making peak power at 7k rpm and peak torque at ~6400? That's pretty unusual in this community! But im sure it feels great. It does look like it is pretty soft below 4500 so i think that speaks to the point Ondonti was making.

But then, you dont really break records staying below 4500 rpm anyway. :p

[bakes]

HOLLY CRaP!!!!!! now that is some Auto porn!!!!!!

[Force Fed Mopar]

I'd like to see a better image of that sheet, if you could.

[turbovanman²]

So you're basically making peak power at 7k rpm and peak torque at ~6400? That's pretty unusual in this community! But im sure it feels great. It does look like it is pretty soft below 4500 so i think that speaks to the point Ondonti was making.

But then, you dont really break records staying below 4500 rpm anyway. :p

Just speculating but I'd say the T4 .58 housing and 67mm comp wheel might something to do with it, :eyebrows:

Maybe the larger header tubing moved the powerband up?

For drag racing, if he can spool it at the line, that would be fun, probably beat someone like Jackson's 500whp cars due to having more traction, as his cars seem to make power down low.

Can't wait to see this beast at the track, :nod:

[Vigo]

If he uses a launch limiter and/or anti-lag like what Shelgame has been able to do with some of the stock electronics.. i dont see any problems getting boost in 1st gear. :)

[turbovanman²]

If he uses a launch limiter and/or anti-lag like what Shelgame has been able to do with some of the stock electronics.. i dont see any problems getting boost in 1st gear. :)

He's still working on that stuff, it doesn't work unless he's recently fixed it.

[Ondonti]

You change the housing and you are going to move the powerband right. That means he better be ready to rev to 8500 (not a crazy thing) to keep a powerband. If he was racing he would need to be shifting at 8k as it is. Changing things to make more peak HP might result in better dyno numbers but less performance. Notice that its taking 600 extra rpms to get to 33psi? Try 38psi with a bigger housing....

[8valves]

Its on BS3, so its no matter if shelgame has the stock ECU functioning with a launch control.

I waa surprised at the slow gain once in boost as well Ondonti. I expected it to be lit and pumping hard by that psi. Go up on the housing and trigger a 75 shot as an output in the BS3 to be on between 1 psi and shutoff at 30 psi with a max target of 38. :-)

[168glhs1986]

Adam was this on pump gas? Sorry if I missed that.

[lengel]

Adam was this on pump gas? Sorry if I missed that.

No I was running VP C16 for anything over 20lb, and sunoco 93 for lower boost. It made 320whp @ 10.5lb and 455whp @ 20lb.

[Directconnection]

No I was running VP C16 for anything over 20lb, and sunoco 93 for lower boost. It made 320whp @ 10.5lb and 455whp @ 20lb.

One of the 101 questions... are you using alky injection? 455whp on 20 psi is pretty insane for 93 octane by itself.

[contraption22]

Wow. Just amazing. Nice job, Lengel!

[turbovanman²]

Its on BS3, so its no matter if shelgame has the stock ECU functioning with a launch control.

I waa surprised at the slow gain once in boost as well Ondonti. I expected it to be lit and pumping hard by that psi. Go up on the housing and trigger a 75 shot as an output in the BS3 to be on between 1 psi and shutoff at 30 psi with a max target of 38. :-)

I know, just messing around, ;)

[Vigo]

Its on BS3, so its no matter if shelgame has the stock ECU functioning with a launch control.


I know that, just jabbing that if 25 yr old oem can do that, high-dollar standalone should be able to as well. I'll make it more obviously jabby next time. :p

[Ondonti]

Jabby but not stabby please.
My coworker does not appreciate this car's power and just said "I bet you wish yours was in that good of condition" :(

[glhs0426]

From the looks of the power curve it should still have good driveability to go with the insane power.

[GLHNSLHT2]

whats the octane of VP C16

[BadAssPerformance]

http://www.vpracingfuels.com/vp-drag-racing.html

[Vigo]

"I bet you wish yours was in that good of condition"

Lol, totally irrelevant to a dyno video.

[black86glhs]

Maybe, but i bet he does wish his was in that good of shape....lol.

[bakes]

I knew that intake was going to be a big gain .

[cordes]

I'm impressed. I knew he was putting something special together, but that's really nice to see.

[wheming]

Congrat's! Awesome workmanship!

[Ondonti]

Question: any idea what is making the power come on so lazily? As I was pointing out 600 rpms extra to go from 27psi to 33psi...even when you reach peak HP your peak torque is 1000 rpms later and then it just drops off. Almost like the cam is WAY too big and then you hit a brick wall? I know when I run big cams it acts lazy lazy until its in the sweet spot. Looks like you have a cam that doesn't hit until 6000+ which doesn't match well with the top end dropoff. Staying away from simonizing those cams right? There could be a million other reasons but I think is worth talking about. Does your 27psi chart look the same? Is your wastegate popping open and then you suffer boost creep that ups your boost to 33psi eventually?
What Tial (or whatever) spring are you running in the wastegate?

[rx2mazda]

since your running the same ecu as me i would love to see some datalog screenshots if you ever get a chance. just show rpm,boost,af and tps....that would be nice to see. if you dont wanna share that on here just email me one to check out. :thumb:

Thanks for the instant motivation btw! While im not shooting for that kind of hp, your results make my goals look very realistic.

[turbovanman²]

I knew that intake was going to be a big gain .

Would be nice to try a modified stocker or stocker back to back just to see.


Question: any idea what is making the power come on so lazily? As I was pointing out 600 rpms extra to go from 27psi to 33psi...even when you reach peak HP your peak torque is 1000 rpms later and then it just drops off. Almost like the cam is WAY too big and then you hit a brick wall? I know when I run big cams it acts lazy lazy until its in the sweet spot. Looks like you have a cam that doesn't hit until 6000+ which doesn't match well with the top end dropoff. Staying away from simonizing those cams right? There could be a million other reasons but I think is worth talking about. Does your 27psi chart look the same? Is your wastegate popping open and then you suffer boost creep that ups your boost to 33psi eventually?
What Tial (or whatever) spring are you running in the wastegate?

Hey, hey, I posted earlier his cams, stage 1's, the same Jackon use's to make his easy 500 whp on his R/T's. They are good cams, let the engine rev.

[lengel]

One of the 101 questions... are you using alky injection? 455whp on 20 psi is pretty insane for 93 octane by itself.

No Im not running any alky. just not running crazy timing on pump gas


Question: any idea what is making the power come on so lazily? As I was pointing out 600 rpms extra to go from 27psi to 33psi...even when you reach peak HP your peak torque is 1000 rpms later and then it just drops off. Almost like the cam is WAY too big and then you hit a brick wall? I know when I run big cams it acts lazy lazy until its in the sweet spot. Looks like you have a cam that doesn't hit until 6000+ which doesn't match well with the top end dropoff. Staying away from simonizing those cams right? There could be a million other reasons but I think is worth talking about. Does your 27psi chart look the same? Is your wastegate popping open and then you suffer boost creep that ups your boost to 33psi eventually?
What Tial (or whatever) spring are you running in the wastegate?

I dont think it is creeping,once it hits 33 holds 32.5 till the end of the pull. Its a 44mm WG with a 10lb spring, and im controlling it with a turbosmart E boost2. On the last pull when we uped the boost to 33 I did forget to up the gate pressure. gate pressure was set at 25. I think if it was set at 30 it would have helped out. Ill have to take a closer look at some of the other logs.


since your running the same ecu as me i would love to see some datalog screenshots if you ever get a chance. just show rpm,boost,af and tps....that would be nice to see. if you dont wanna share that on here just email me one to check out. :thumb:

Yeah Ill send you a log

Thanks for the instant motivation btw! While im not shooting for that kind of hp, your results make my goals look very realistic.

[Ondonti]

What exactly do you mean by gate pressure? I was never able to get more then 20psi out of a 5.8 psi spring on the dyno but on the road it would run 24+. I bet if you put a 15psi spring in there you would be more responsive on the top end boost gain. I also never got the same boost level when I had slicks on. I have quite a few friends with custom turbo setups who tend to run smaller springs then OEM turbo guys and most get into that problem area on their wastegate spring.

My Electronic boost controller is just a Mac valve that bleeds off pressure that is being sent to the top port into the bottom port (which opens the valve). If I turn the knob on either high or low, it does all the work.

[8valves]

the turbosmart EB2 uses two pressure setting to derive at your final boost setting. Gate pressure is one of the terms for the two settings. I cant remember the other one.

Does BS3 not have a good internal boost control system? I never understand why people with standalones don't use all of their internal systems and add external additional controls, unless of course its something like a time based CO2 system for drag applications.

Im impressed you made it to that much boost on that spring. How much boost does the car run on just straight manifold reference to the gate? Have you ever tried that? That tells you a good bit about a turbo system

[turbovanman²]

That tells you a good bit about a turbo system

How so?

[8valves]

How so?

Wastegate spring pressures are estimated based upon a lab test with a 1:1 PR intake to exhaust.

If you run WG spring pressure with a direct line from the intake and you run dead on the spring setting you have a rough idea that youre near a 1:1 at that boost level. If you make less you are already over a 1:1 (not likely at the typical spring pressure most here would run), and if it makes more, its either because youre well under the 1:1 point.

If your boost stabalizes near the WG spring pressure then gradually climbs you then see you have a near 1:1 system AT THAT BOOST LEVEL, and also a less than ideal WG placement.

Example of an under 1:1 system and decent WG flow is my brothers Talon with twin 44mm gates with 18psi springs. The boost hits 21.4psi before the gates push open and only makes it to 22psi after a 3000 rpm in boost pull.

If it crept higher than that it would likely be a under 1:1 system AT THAT BOOST LEVEL but have poor WG placement.

After that the datalog of the boost curve with how hard it dips, recovers, etc can tell you a lot additionally.

If youre running some sort of boost control with this concept all bets are off.

This is a generalized idea statement. Pressure readings are the only real truth. Just to clarify.

[turbovanman²]

Makes sense.

[Ondonti]

That would make more sense why I couldn't get the same boost on slicks/dyno, because there was less wheelspin and more load

[RoadWarrior222]

Awesome sauce!!! .... the 16.7M scoville limited edition!



455whp on 20 psi is pretty insane for 93 octane by itself.

Yup, I would have chickened out there.


I can't wait to see vids of this going up the track like a missile.


What are you waiting for Simon, 633WHP should be able to fling your toolshed down the track in the mid-low tens :thumb:

[lengel]

What exactly do you mean by gate pressure? I was never able to get more then 20psi out of a 5.8 psi spring on the dyno but on the road it would run 24+. I bet if you put a 15psi spring in there you would be more responsive on the top end boost gain. I also never got the same boost level when I had slicks on. I have quite a few friends with custom turbo setups who tend to run smaller springs then OEM turbo guys and most get into that problem area on their wastegate spring.

My Electronic boost controller is just a Mac valve that bleeds off pressure that is being sent to the top port into the bottom port (which opens the valve). If I turn the knob on either high or low, it does all the work.

I run a 4 port sel. this is supposed to let you run a wide range of boost settings (5psi-40psi) Like 8valve said there are two pressure setting. One is your set point this is the duty cycle of the sel. and sets your desired boost. The other is the the gate pressure this applies pressure to the top and hold it closed till it hits the set gate pressure.


the turbosmart EB2 uses two pressure setting to derive at your final boost setting. Gate pressure is one of the terms for the two settings. I cant remember the other one.

Does BS3 not have a good internal boost control system? I never understand why people with standalones don't use all of their internal systems and add external additional controls, unless of course its something like a time based CO2 system for drag applications.

Im impressed you made it to that much boost on that spring. How much boost does the car run on just straight manifold reference to the gate? Have you ever tried that? That tells you a good bit about a turbo system

I didnt hear to many good reviews on the biggstuff contoller.


Wastegate spring pressures are estimated based upon a lab test with a 1:1 PR intake to exhaust.

If you run WG spring pressure with a direct line from the intake and you run dead on the spring setting you have a rough idea that youre near a 1:1 at that boost level. If you make less you are already over a 1:1 (not likely at the typical spring pressure most here would run), and if it makes more, its either because youre well under the 1:1 point.

If your boost stabalizes near the WG spring pressure then gradually climbs you then see you have a near 1:1 system AT THAT BOOST LEVEL, and also a less than ideal WG placement.

Example of an under 1:1 system and decent WG flow is my brothers Talon with twin 44mm gates with 18psi springs. The boost hits 21.4psi before the gates push open and only makes it to 22psi after a 3000 rpm in boost pull.

If it crept higher than that it would likely be a under 1:1 system AT THAT BOOST LEVEL but have poor WG placement.

After that the datalog of the boost curve with how hard it dips, recovers, etc can tell you a lot additionally.

If youre running some sort of boost control with this concept all bets are off.

This is a generalized idea statement. Pressure readings are the only real truth. Just to clarify.

Yeah I ran it on just the spring and it did creep about 1.5psi

[lengel]

I was just looking alittle more at the log and it seem to me, its due to the gate pressure not being set higher. I could be wrong I often am!
here is the boost vs rpm
9.7 @ 4200
10.9 @ 4300
12.7 @ 4400
14.5 @ 4500
16.9 @ 4600
20.0 @ 4700
22.7 @ 4800
24.8 @ 4900
27.5 @ 5000
29.3 @ 5100
30.6 @ 5200
31.8 @ 5350
32.7 @ 5450
32.7 @ 5550
33.0 @ 5600

[Vigo]

You said you had gate pressure set to 25. It seems to be rising fairly quickly from 25-29, but slow down from 29-33. I think you could be right, anyway.

[Reaper1]

Congrats on an awesome outcome! :thumb:

[turbovanman²]

What are you waiting for Simon, 633WHP should be able to fling your toolshed down the track in the mid-low tens :thumb:

Keeping axles and my transmission together, lol.

[GLHNSLHT2]

What are you waiting for Simon, 633WHP should be able to fling your toolshed down the track in the mid-low tens :thumb:

He's got to make 333hp 1st.

[turbovanman²]

He's got to make 333hp 1st.

I've made that and then some, ;)

[black86glhs]

Then you messed with it and it made less!!!!!!!:D

[440dart]

good job that thing has to so much fun to drive any traction in 5th? ahahah

[GLHNSLHT2]

plenty of traction in 5th till he hits 150MPH then all hell breaks loose.

[440dart]

Just gotta put that in a awd omni or a conquest talk about a fun car not knocking the r/t's just heavy boat anchors.

---------- Post added at 01:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:14 PM ----------


He's got to make 333hp 1st. hahahahah

[Directconnection]

Just gotta put that in a awd omni or a conquest talk about a fun car not knocking the r/t's just heavy boat anchors

I hear ya, as it's a major reason why my current T-III build is ending up in my '90 Shadow vs. the IROC R/T.

But, MAJOR kudos goes out to Adam for keeping it in a Spirit R/T. Lots of great exposure for that *complete* platform vs. a mongrel of a car nobody can find info on because it never existed. (ie: a production T-III Omni)

Now this car WILL put the Spirit R/T back on the map from where Wallace and Jolliffie left off.

[turbovanman²]

I hear ya, as it's a major reason why my current T-III build is ending up in my '90 Shadow vs. the IROC R/T.

But, MAJOR kudos goes out to Adam for keeping it in a Spirit R/T. Lots of great exposure for that *complete* platform vs. a mongrel of a car nobody can find info on because it never existed. (ie: a production T-III Omni)

Now this car WILL put the Spirit R/T back on the map from where Wallace and Jolliffie left off.

Who care's what platform its in, a stout TIII is a stout TIII, whether in a Spirit, Daytona, Omni, Van or other, :nod:

[Force Fed Mopar]

Yeah but it's cooler to see it done in the original platform.

[Vigo]

I think as far as getting new people interested in the cars/motors, better for it to be in the original car. But for getting us usual suspects worked up i think swapped everything is just fine too. :)

[Ondonti]

I would say that keeping it in the original car gives dignity that you can't get in a swap. Put a turbo viper motor in an omni and it won't get anymore dignity then a tIII swap, just a lot more fans who could care less about the car otherwise.

[Force Fed Mopar]

I would say that keeping it in the original car gives dignity that you can't get in a swap. Put a turbo viper motor in an omni and it won't get anymore dignity then a tIII swap, just a lot more fans who could care less about the car otherwise.

This ^^

[Directconnection]

This ^^

Yes, what I was saying... even though it went right over Simon's head.

[RoadWarrior222]

Yeah, to quadruple your "Shelby cred" put a ford motor in the Omni :banghead:

However, it's some kinds of liquid helium cool to have original motor in original platform putting up insane figures.

[BadAssPerformance]

I think as far as getting new people interested in the cars/motors, better for it to be in the original car. But for getting us usual suspects worked up i think swapped everything is just fine too. :)

Ya know, I lost count of how many DSM fans (who should know what a 4G63T looks like?) have asked me if the 2.4L was a 4G63 or a 420A? :banghead: And the very few that are in the ballpark and ask if its an SRT-4, we typiclaly have a good conversation :thumb:


I am very happy to see Lengel's Spirit the way it is :nod: 20 years ago, these were the badestassed american 4-doors available, and it is definitely an homage to the heritage! :clap:

---------- Post added at 08:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:47 AM ----------


Yeah, to quadruple your "Shelby cred" put a ford motor in the Omni :banghead:

Get my hand's on a Cobra, I WILL put a 2.2L or 2.4L in it :nod:

[Force Fed Mopar]

Get my hand's on a Cobra, I WILL put a 2.2L or 2.4L in it :nod:

Lol, dude you should get one of those Factory 5 kit cars and DO IT! That would get so many double-takes lol.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Yes, what I was saying... even though it went right over Simon's head.

It does that all the time cause there's no hair for it to stick too :)

[BadAssPerformance]

Lol, dude you should get one of those Factory 5 kit cars and DO IT! That would get so many double-takes lol.

I found an unfinished one a couple years ago, but the guy wanted to sell all the mustang BS with it and wouldn't seperate LOL

[lengel]

Oh man you guys are making me feel bad! My long long term plan was to put this set up in an L body.

[RoadWarrior222]

Well that made me spurt a herd of buffaLOL

Is this where we bully someone into making you a set of carbon fibre panels and skins so you can keep it in the AA? :D

[BadAssPerformance]

Oh man you guys are making me feel bad! My long long term plan was to put this set up in an L body.

Hey, long long term is cool... once you get bored with it or something.

---------- Post added at 02:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:11 PM ----------


Well that made me spurt a herd of buffaLOL

Is this where we bully someone into making you a set of carbon fibre panels and skins so you can keep it in the AA? :D

Or... He can race Carroll's GLH R/T heads up at SDAC-22 to decide if an L-body is a better swap? LOL ;) :evil: Maybe "best of 3"? Or wait, better yet, Battle of the high HP T-III's! Jackson's IROC, Pat's Shadow, etc... :D

[RoadWarrior222]

Maybe "best of 3"? Or wait, better yet, Battle of the high HP T-III's! Jackson's IROC, Pat's Shadow, etc... :D

Yay, yeah, lets have a whip round for a case of timing belts so everyone can run everyone :p

[Pat]

Hey, long long term is cool... once you get bored with it or something.

---------- Post added at 02:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:11 PM ----------



Or... He can race Carroll's GLH R/T heads up at SDAC-22 to decide if an L-body is a better swap? LOL ;) :evil: Maybe "best of 3"? Or wait, better yet, Battle of the high HP T-III's! Jackson's IROC, Pat's Shadow, etc... :D

Bring it. :-)

Oh wait, I need to put it back together. Let me reassemble it...then bring it! LOL!

[BadAssPerformance]

Bring it. :-)

Oh wait, I need to put it back together. Let me reassemble it...then bring it! LOL!

LOL, awesome.

[rx2mazda]

He's gotta beat the quickest Spirit R/T time first(Rob)! lol. Lengel has told me numerous times that my TIII Omni is his dream TD. His motor in a Omni......omg!

[Force Fed Mopar]

A TIII shootout would be cool :)

[168glhs1986]

Oh man you guys are making me feel bad! My long long term plan was to put this set up in an L body.

Come on over to the dark side Adam. 4 door, 2 door or rampage?

[Ondonti]

Oh man you guys are making me feel bad! My long long term plan was to put this set up in an L body.

Give me the AA chassis for free and I will support 100%

[turbovanman²]

Yes, what I was saying... even though it went right over Simon's head.

Blah blah blah.


Oh man you guys are making me feel bad! My long long term plan was to put this set up in an L body.

Good for you, too much talk about blah blah blah on here, :eyebrows:

[RoadWarrior222]

Give me the AA chassis for free and I will support 100%Heh, it will still have 2 cams, more than 8 valves and at least 2.5L displacement right?

[BadAssPerformance]

A TIII shootout would be cool :)

Definitely! Forgot to add, Simon needs to bring the T-III Minivan too! :nod:

[turbovanman²]

Definitely! Forgot to add, Simon needs to bring the T-III Minivan too! :nod:

Sure, lol, if I ever get rich. I guess we'll see where SDAC is this year, and of course, plan not to go, :mecry:

Plus, probably get put down or ridiculed anyhow so why bother, :(

[shadow88]

To steer a little back towards the track and out of the rhubarb.... That's a pretty wild high revving combo. What was the peak torque number? edit. nevermind, found it 482.

[Directconnection]

To steer a little back towards the track and out of the rhubarb.... That's a pretty wild high revving combo. What was the peak torque number? edit. nevermind, found it 482.

I agree. BTW Adam, do you (and when) plan to attack the dyno again before spring? if you do... try a Dynojet. hehehe

[Ondonti]

Heh, it will still have 2 cams, more than 8 valves and at least 2.5L displacement right?
+ baby seat.

What rods are in that thing? I still think it needs more rev.

[turbo2point2]

+ baby seat.

What rods are in that thing? I still think it needs more rev.

Lengel's motor uses Oliver rods.

[cordes]

All arguments regarding motor durability and lack of power should be addressed in the new thread. Let's keep this one about Lengel's TIII please.



http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?63005-Lengel-s-Thread-Offshoot

[fishcleaner]

WOW, that engine sound great, would love to see all the data, so what MPH did you hit?

[tsiconquest88]

Just gotta put that in a awd omni or a conquest talk about a fun car not knocking the r/t's just heavy boat anchors.

Your kidding right? A starquest outweighs a sprit rt lol. However a t3 in a quest would be a cool thing to see come alive.

CONGRATS Adam!!!! Glad to see this work out for you and all time/money you put in to the car has turned out for the better!

[SebringLX]

Awesome! Maybe a dumb question, 'cause I didn't see anyone else mention it... but what's up with what looks to be smoke coming from the engine at the end of the pull?

[Simsy]

Lengel FTW!

[Reaper1]

Awesome! Maybe a dumb question, 'cause I didn't see anyone else mention it... but what's up with what looks to be smoke coming from the engine at the end of the pull?

Probably crankcase venting. If you have ever watched tractor pulling they do something very similar.

[johnl]

Congratulations. Excellence achieved. Be proud.

[tsiconquest88]

I too seen but assumed it was prob nothing more than some exhaust gas leaking from the turbo to dp mounting for that split second it happened.

[lengel]

He's gotta beat the quickest Spirit R/T time first(Rob)! lol. Lengel has told me numerous times that my TIII Omni is his dream TD. His motor in a Omni......omg!

This is true!


Come on over to the dark side Adam. 4 door, 2 door or rampage?

I just dont have the time to start another project at this point in my life, but one day I will join you


I agree. BTW Adam, do you (and when) plan to attack the dyno again before spring? if you do... try a Dynojet. hehehe

No more dyno. next will be the track in spring!


All arguments regarding motor durability and lack of power should be addressed in the new thread. Let's keep this one about Lengel's TIII please.

What happened! LOL!

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?63005-Lengel-s-Thread-Offshoot


WOW, that engine sound great, would love to see all the data, so what MPH did you hit?

I will have to look tonight.


Your kidding right? A starquest outweighs a sprit rt lol. However a t3 in a quest would be a cool thing to see come alive.

CONGRATS Adam!!!! Glad to see this work out for you and all time/money you put in to the car has turned out for the better!

Thanks Man!


Awesome! Maybe a dumb question, 'cause I didn't see anyone else mention it... but what's up with what looks to be smoke coming from the engine at the end of the pull?

My center core plug in my head is leaking a little

[Ondonti]

What is up with the chassis on the car? I am not familiar with it. Can you actually run any power at the track or just get booted?
It looks too nice to get parted.

[Force Fed Mopar]

I agree, I would definitely not scrap the car to build an Omni. Even if I had to put a T1 engine back in :)

[Shadow]

No more dyno. next will be the track in spring!


Good man! Too many rely on dynos for too long and then get too wound up at the track Thinking they now have to put up a major leage # or else be the laughing stock :(

I've seen this happen to locals who Will Never get to experience the thrill of driving their car down the 1/4 because of the risk of embarrassment that they put on themselves after years of Dyno's + big talk behind the scene:( :(

+ dyno tune does Not gaurantee that you won't have to tweek the tune at the track for real world.

My advise; Go to the track with little to no expectations, like it's a tuning day. Learn the car! Let the car show You how it wants to be driven and set-up, and above all Have FUN! :D I see way to many ppl show up to the track and are so dead set on putting on a show that they forget to have fun! (I've been guilty of this at times :()

#1 reason the Charger has stayed together so well and for so long is because I Never pushed the car to get a #. (as much as this pissed off my brother and others) I simply drove the car the way it felt right to drive it according to the experience I had at the time and Believed the day would come that I would know the car well enough to be able to drive it hard, without being hard on the car.

First time out with the Charger it only went mid 12's ;) This after going mid 11's the year before with a lesser build. Some tried to use this to goad me and suggest that something was wrong with my driving, I never bit! (besides, I had 72lb inj's running off a 52lb cal, I knew the car was WAY rich down low and that alone was the problem)

Point being I never tried to drive the crap out of the car, even after being ribbed about it at the track. The car went as fast as it went and I wasn't going to risk breaking it just to go a tenth faster when something else was holding me back :)

Good Luck! :thumb:

[lengel]

What is up with the chassis on the car? I am not familiar with it. Can you actually run any power at the track or just get booted?
It looks too nice to get parted.


I agree, I would definitely not scrap the car to build an Omni. Even if I had to put a T1 engine back in :)

Nothing was done to the chassis yet. I was going cage it when I started going that fast. If I ever put this set up in a L body, the R/T will get a stockish TIII put back in it.


Good man! Too many rely on dynos for too long and then get too wound up at the track Thinking they now have to put up a major leage # or else be the laughing stock :(

I've seen this happen to locals who Will Never get to experience the thrill of driving their car down the 1/4 because of the risk of embarrassment that they put on themselves after years of Dyno's + big talk behind the scene:( :(

+ dyno tune does Not gaurantee that you won't have to tweek the tune at the track for real world.

My advise; Go to the track with little to no expectations, like it's a tuning day. Learn the car! Let the car show You how it wants to be driven and set-up, and above all Have FUN! :D I see way to many ppl show up to the track and are so dead set on putting on a show that they forget to have fun! (I've been guilty of this at times :()

#1 reason the Charger has stayed together so well and for so long is because I Never pushed the car to get a #. (as much as this pissed off my brother and others) I simply drove the car the way it felt right to drive it according to the experience I had at the time and Believed the day would come that I would know the car well enough to be able to drive it hard, without being hard on the car.

First time out with the Charger it only went mid 12's ;) This after going mid 11's the year before with a lesser build. Some tried to use this to goad me and suggest that something was wrong with my driving, I never bit! (besides, I had 72lb inj's running off a 52lb cal, I knew the car was WAY rich down low and that alone was the problem)

Point being I never tried to drive the crap out of the car, even after being ribbed about it at the track. The car went as fast as it went and I wasn't going to risk breaking it just to go a tenth faster when something else was holding me back :)

Good Luck! :thumb:

Thanks for the advice! I sure its going to take some time to get used to the car. I going to keep the boost low for the first few outting then slowly add more.

[BadAssPerformance]

I going to keep the boost low for the first few outting then slowly add more.

Definitely a good plan... shake it down :thumb:

[RoadWarrior222]

Though let's spend $400 for you if you didn't spot this already...
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?63141-Traction-control-now-available-for-our-cars!!!&highlight=

and say if you wanna get the most horsies possible down, without needing to make sure you're wearing your brown pants, then that might do it.

[rx2mazda]

Though let's spend $400 for you if you didn't spot this already...
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?63141-Traction-control-now-available-for-our-cars!!!&highlight= (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?63141-Traction-control-now-available-for-our-cars%21%21%21&highlight=)

and say if you wanna get the most horsies possible down, without needing to make sure you're wearing your brown pants, then that might do it.

Lengel is running a Bigstuff3 ECU so that system won't work. Bigstuff3 can have TC added, needs a software update and their sensor for the axle.

[Directconnection]

Lengel is running a Bigstuff3 ECU so that system won't work. Bigstuff3 can have TC added, needs a software update and their sensor for the axle.

Isn't it generally a bad idea to radically pull timing at wot? Retarding a lot would make egts skyrocket...

[cordes]

Isn't it generally a bad idea to radically pull timing at wot? Retarding a lot would make egts skyrocket...

I'm assuming that you're talking about the one which was just posted up on here and not BS3. I haven't the foggiest how the TC on any aftermarket EFI works.

If you're right at the edge of octane limited it will melt pistons for sure though. The one which Cindy just posted about pulls timing and cuts ignition to random cyls though. That could keep things cool enough to work well I would think.