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Sundance 6g72
11-14-2011, 11:50 PM
anyone besides Ed trying out different spark plugs? Cant remember what plugs ed is using exactly, but i know he is/was using some that sat further in the combustion chamber.

anyone have any thoughts on this?

c2xejk
11-15-2011, 08:22 AM
The plug was from a '02 Intrepid with a 3.5L. Extended nose and gapped to 0.050". I do not yet have any dyno numbers for them.

Ed Kelly - www.kmperformance.com

Sundance 6g72
11-15-2011, 09:25 AM
but they "seemed" to work, correct? Iirc, when we stiched back to normal plugs, the car ran the same and no issues went away... making it seem that the plugs in the end had nothing to do with it.

Force Fed Mopar
11-15-2011, 09:43 AM
Mpgmike is adamant that Pulstar plugs make a big difference. I haven't tried a set yet.

c2xejk
11-15-2011, 11:07 PM
but they "seemed" to work, correct? Iirc, when we stiched back to normal plugs, the car ran the same and no issues went away... making it seem that the plugs in the end had nothing to do with it.

I don't think the plugs caused any problems. It was just one of those diagnostic steps we never undid...

turbovanmanČ
11-16-2011, 03:47 AM
Why run extended nose plugs? They are more prone to detonation.

You could probably get away with a BR9ES or the IX version, like we do.

Sundance 6g72
11-16-2011, 03:54 AM
How would they be more prone

turbovanmanČ
11-16-2011, 03:58 AM
How would they be more prone

The more the plug sticks into the fire/chamber, the hotter they run, the more chance you have of detonation or the plug becoming a glow stick.

I added a bit more info in my previous post but some of us run recessed tip plugs ala the BR9ES and it really helps keep detonation at bay.

c2xejk
11-16-2011, 08:18 AM
So far the 3L does not seem to be prone to detonation... Moving the spark gap closer to the center of the chamber should reduce the engines need for spark advance.

turbovanmanČ
11-16-2011, 02:02 PM
So far the 3L does not seem to be prone to detonation... Moving the spark gap closer to the center of the chamber should reduce the engines need for spark advance.

That is true, so if your not having detonation issues then leave well enough alonge, :thumb:

Sundance 6g72
11-16-2011, 02:56 PM
Im curious about a boosted motor. What gap should be used?

turbovanmanČ
11-16-2011, 03:05 PM
Im curious about a boosted motor. What gap should be used?

Large as possible without misfiring, start off at stock and gap down if needed.

Ondonti
11-16-2011, 11:53 PM
I think what Ed is getting at is that even with cheap fuel, you can add timing until power stops gaining and it still doesn't knock. So you could therefore do mods that make the motor more prone to knock but still be able to run all the advance you need to max out power.

c2xejk
11-17-2011, 08:15 AM
That is true, so if your not having detonation issues then leave well enough alonge, :thumb:

Like many of the people this list, I have the wild idea of trying to get more hp out of my engine. :)

Ondonti
11-17-2011, 04:51 PM
Simon, set your cams where they should be and leave well enough alone ;)

turbovanmanČ
11-17-2011, 04:59 PM
Like many of the people this list, I have the wild idea of trying to get more hp out of my engine. :)

Hp, pftttttt, who needs it.


Simon, set your cams where they should be and leave well enough alone ;)

Never, :eyebrows:

johnl
11-17-2011, 06:35 PM
Projected nose just gets the spark closer to the center of the chamber, slightly advances the timing because of that. Nothing about it inherently tends to detonation, if it does, just go to a cooler plug. I prefer them but for no good scientific reason, just the idea that a spark kernel out in the breeze lights it off a bit better.

turbovanmanČ
11-18-2011, 01:32 PM
Nothing about it inherently tends to detonation, if it does, just go to a cooler plug. I prefer them but for no good scientific reason, just the idea that a spark kernel out in the breeze lights it off a bit better.

It can, I've done some reading, insert joke here, and I guess it shouldn't be a blanket statement. Quite a few tuners seem to agree that run a recessed tip plug for a safety factor as they are known to light up in long WOT runs or boosted and especially :nx: applications, chamber design plays a role too. If I run a regular stock plug but colder, it detonates more easily than if i run a cold recessed tip plug. I run a recessed in the summer, regular in the winter, but that's my observation, your results may vary, :eyebrows:

johnl
11-18-2011, 03:08 PM
Simon, yeah, that sounds right, long WOT, nitrous, extremes.

Sundance 6g72
11-18-2011, 03:31 PM
just to note.. ed and I did 75000rpm pulls over and over with way to much timing and it didnt show any signs of detonation.
this was NA obviously

turbovanmanČ
11-18-2011, 03:40 PM
just to note.. ed and I did 75000rpm pulls over and over with way to much timing and it didnt show any signs of detonation.
this was NA obviously

75000 rpm, HOLY SHITTBALLS, :faint: :wow1:

Yeah, N/A and turbo are different. I did post up a story about a Chrysler engineer who was sent out to find out why the slant six's were blowing up on the torture dyno when he couldn't get them too, he found out they were using the stock heat range instead of cold plugs, they hold them at WOT for hours, damn.

Sundance 6g72
11-18-2011, 05:46 PM
yeah slant six motors never blew up under normal conditions ;)

7500 but the cam still wasnt big enough.

so you guys are saying colder plugs in the summer and normal in the winter. im just running whatever they gave me when i said i had a 93 shadow and need some plugs. not sure how im supposed to go for colder plugs.

turbovanmanČ
11-18-2011, 06:38 PM
yeah slant six motors never blew up under normal conditions ;)

7500 but the cam still wasnt big enough.

so you guys are saying colder plugs in the summer and normal in the winter. im just running whatever they gave me when i said i had a 93 shadow and need some plugs. not sure how im supposed to go for colder plugs.

That's just me, you guys need to experiment or just stick with works, IE Brent or Ed etc.

LOL, Slant 6's were pretty hard to break.

Warren Stramer
11-18-2011, 06:48 PM
Projected nose just gets the spark closer to the center of the chamber, slightly advances the timing because of that. Nothing about it inherently tends to detonation, if it does, just go to a cooler plug. I prefer them but for no good scientific reason, just the idea that a spark kernel out in the breeze lights it off a bit better.

Exactly right, and there is good reason, anytime you can initiate the spark closer to the center of the chamber you can take out spark lead (one to two degrees on a G head) and make more measurable power (less negetive work).
Dont anyone tell Simon about this racing secret, but the plug you want is the NGK ZFR7F, stock number 5913:thumb:

turbovanmanČ
11-18-2011, 07:55 PM
Exactly right, and there is good reason, anytime you can initiate the spark closer to the center of the chamber you can take out spark lead (one to two degrees on a G head) and make more measurable power (less negetive work).
Dont anyone tell Simon about this racing secret, but the plug you want is the NGK ZFR7F, stock number 5913:thumb:

Hahahaha, funny guy. :(

turbovanmanČ
11-18-2011, 08:19 PM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-NGK-SPARK-PLUG-MARINE-ENGINE-NGK-ZFR7F-5913-/330513659508?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr&hash=item4cf4263674

The threads seem too short?

Warren Stramer
11-18-2011, 08:25 PM
Hahahaha, funny guy. :(
just bustin your balls Simon

---------- Post added at 06:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:20 PM ----------


http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-NGK-SPARK-PLUG-MARINE-ENGINE-NGK-ZFR7F-5913-/330513659508?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr&hash=item4cf4263674

The threads seem too short?
The Ebay pic on the left is the ZFR7F, the pic on the right is a different plug for some reason

---------- Post added at 06:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:22 PM ----------


just bustin your balls Simon

---------- Post added at 06:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:20 PM ----------


The Ebay pic on the left is the ZFR7F, the pic on the right is a different plug for some reason

On second look, the left pic is wrong also. The ZFR7F has a 5/8 hex, not the 3/16 shown.

johnl
11-18-2011, 09:23 PM
Exactly right, and there is good reason, anytime you can initiate the spark closer to the center of the chamber you can take out spark lead (one to two degrees on a G head) and make more measurable power (less negetive work).
Dont anyone tell Simon about this racing secret, but the plug you want is the NGK ZFR7F, stock number 5913:thumb:


Ha Ha, Simon. Teacher said I was right
:D

I wonder why projected nose plugs are not OEM specified in more engines. Perhaps less extreme heat cycling or less chance of debris fouling?

turbovanmanČ
11-18-2011, 09:38 PM
just bustin your balls Simon

---------- Post added at 06:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:20 PM ----------


The Ebay pic on the left is the ZFR7F, the pic on the right is a different plug for some reason

---------- Post added at 06:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:22 PM ----------



On second look, the left pic is wrong also. The ZFR7F has a 5/8 hex, not the 3/16 shown.

I know you are, its all good, :nod:

Ok, I'll do some more digging, thanks for the heads up.

I had to call in at my parts store, those numbers didn't come up on the catalogs, all they have is the ZFR7F-11, which has a larger gap.

Why did you choose these?

Ondonti
11-19-2011, 12:43 AM
I hurt my forged motor when I didn't have time to pick up some colder plugs and forgot they were in the motor later on. Porcelain came off. Dinged up the head and chipped a corner on a piston (chip was pinned against the cylinder, scratching it) which is the main reason I never put it back in (didn't want to pull it apart and polish that part off).

2 ranges colder then stock copper champions worked great for me on big power. I couldn't run the super cold NGK's that I like on that motor. Too cold. I would use them on a stock compression motor though (and I have).

Warren Stramer
11-19-2011, 10:34 AM
I know you are, its all good, :nod:

Ok, I'll do some more digging, thanks for the heads up.

I had to call in at my parts store, those numbers didn't come up on the catalogs, all they have is the ZFR7F-11, which has a larger gap.

Why did you choose these?
I chose those after a consult with NGK engineering tech line. They were the only projected nose,cold heat range, and 5/8 hex (to clear my extra head stud nuts) they made. They are specified for motorcycle apps.
The other NGK I use is non projected nose, but same heat range, and 5/8 hex is the BKR7E.

Ondonti
11-19-2011, 05:56 PM
Your motor is still happy right?

Warren Stramer
11-19-2011, 06:08 PM
Your motor is still happy right?

Oh its very happy!

turbovanmanČ
11-21-2011, 02:31 PM
I chose those after a consult with NGK engineering tech line. They were the only projected nose,cold heat range, and 5/8 hex (to clear my extra head stud nuts) they made. They are specified for motorcycle apps.
The other NGK I use is non projected nose, but same heat range, and 5/8 hex is the BKR7E.

Thanks again.

Do you switch back and forth? :eyebrows:

ATaylorRacing
11-23-2011, 12:57 PM
My cars, both turbo and not never ran quicker than they did with either the stock Champions or Accel U Groove ones for the car. Platinums did NOT work worth a dang in any of them.

I was watching a show a few weeks ago where they dynoed a small block Chevy at over 460 hp and by putting in some of those E3 ones picked up 8 hp. I would have liked to see them put in new plugs of the same kind that were in the motor for the first pull to see if it really was the E3 instead of just fresher plugs. A lot of the high boost turbo V8 and V6 guys run Autolites with great success.

bond_bbs
11-23-2011, 01:26 PM
A 1 pull vs 1 pull dyno comparison is a bad idea anyways - as variances in engine temp, oil temp, intake temp, atmospheric pressure, etc, could make up the 8hp difference between 2 pulls.

turbovanmanČ
11-23-2011, 01:32 PM
A 1 pull vs 1 pull dyno comparison is a bad idea anyways - as variances in engine temp, oil temp, intake temp, atmospheric pressure, etc, could make up the 8hp difference between 2 pulls.

Very true, but maybe they did, he's just writing cliff notes, lol.

RoadWarrior222
11-23-2011, 02:14 PM
Yah, both NGK and Bosch +4 platinums sucked in mine...

I found the stock champions the best runners.

Despite that, because I'm a cheapskate, I've been running an AC delco plug that's a range hotter, R44XLS if I remember right off the top of my head. Anyway, those are very close to the champs, otherwise I probably wouldn't use them, think the idle quality isn't quite as good. I seem to keep finding them dirt cheap for some reason. Like all the chebby folks bought cases of them and they come out by the dozen NIB at yard sales.

You know what's funny about the advance thing though, I run 15* base, and I can put midgrade 89 octane in and get better mileage, (Premium is worse) than 87 ... though I also get better mileage on 87 at 15* than 12* this sort of gives the impression though that the extra 3* of base has peaked the efficiency for 87

turbovanmanČ
11-23-2011, 02:16 PM
Your not supposed to run Platinum in turbo engines, ;)

I tried AC Delco plug and they misfired like a mofo. The best plugs I liked are the Iridiums, smoother running and last alot longer.

We all know with Premium you get worse mileage, durrr, hehehe.

RoadWarrior222
11-23-2011, 02:52 PM
A 1 pull vs 1 pull dyno comparison is a bad idea anyways - as variances in engine temp, oil temp, intake temp, atmospheric pressure, etc, could make up the 8hp difference between 2 pulls.

On 460 HP they could make 20HP worth of difference.... so maybe it lost 12 HP :D

---------- Post added at 01:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:45 PM ----------


Exactly right, and there is good reason, anytime you can initiate the spark closer to the center of the chamber you can take out spark lead (one to two degrees on a G head) and make more measurable power (less negetive work).

Excellent point there.... there's tons of people under the impression that the advance itself makes power.

---------- Post added at 01:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:50 PM ----------


Your not supposed to run Platinum in turbo engines, ;)

I tried AC Delco plug and they misfired like a mofo. The best plugs I liked are the Iridiums, smoother running and last alot longer.

We all know with Premium you get worse mileage, durrr, hehehe.

I ain't blown my 3.0 yet :p .... this is half and half N/A and boosted 3.0 talk in case you didn't notice which section you were in :D

turbovanmanČ
11-23-2011, 03:03 PM
I ain't blown my 3.0 yet :p .... this is half and half N/A and boosted 3.0 talk in case you didn't notice which section you were in :D

Yes but Angelo said he ran them in 2 turbo engines, ;)

bond_bbs
11-24-2011, 02:19 PM
Don't know about anyone else, but I found the Bosch plugs made the throttle response feel quicker in the summer, but in the winter could be harder to start. It seemed as though they burnt hotter even in the factory replacement heat range.