shifting problem

[spoolinhard]

My srt does not shift worth a darn in humid weather. when it is cool out it shifts great. When it is humid or warm at all it is very difficult to shift into 1st 2nd and reverse. When it is really hot out reverse is impossible to shift into. At that point I can shut the car off and it will easily shift into any gear I want it to (like its supposed to).

I posted this over on the srt forums and got little help. THey mostly suggested I upgrade my clutch lines to stainless steel one because thats what they did because it looked cool:yuck:

any help would be appreciated

[Force Fed Mopar]

When was the last time the fluid in it was changed? If you did it, what fluid did you use?

[DodgeZdad]

My srt does not shift worth a darn in humid weather. when it is cool out it shifts great. When it is humid or warm at all it is very difficult to shift into 1st 2nd and reverse. When it is really hot out reverse is impossible to shift into. At that point I can shut the car off and it will easily shift into any gear I want it to (like its supposed to).

I posted this over on the srt forums and got little help. THey mostly suggested I upgrade my clutch lines to stainless steel one because thats what they did because it looked cool:yuck:

any help would be appreciated

Your clutch fork is probably worn. Adjust your clutch [under dash] to gain a little life on it. I use Amsoil 5w-30 Synchomesh and have found it to work well for worn transmissions. Contray to the people on SRT Fourms I would not use 10w 40 motor oil as I have found it to be too heavy and too slick for proper syncro operation in this transmission.

[turbovanman²]

I would change your fluid first, Redline MTF or Synchromesh would be a good fluid to use.

[Force Fed Mopar]

Your clutch fork is probably worn. Adjust your clutch [under dash] to gain a little life on it. I use Amsoil 5w-30 Synchomesh and have found it to work well for worn transmissions. Contray to the people on SRT Fourms I would not use 10w 40 motor oil as I have found it to be too heavy and too slick for proper syncro operation in this transmission.

Listen to this man ^^ :thumb:

[black86glhs]

Replace the clutch cable.:drum:

[Force Fed Mopar]

Replace the clutch cable.:drum:

What clutch cable? :D

[Keito]

I'm running Amsoil MTL.
Shifts a little better than stock, but then again my car only has 20000 miles on it.

[Force Fed Mopar]

Chuck's has like 104k on it lol. Probably 25% of that was done an 8th of a mile at a time WOT shifting :D

[thump3r]

theres adjustment on where the master connects to the pedal adjust that to allow the master more movement. i just did mine this week as it started a slight 2ng gear grind. problem went away 100%.

if that doesn't help, the forks are known to go bad. if you replace it spend the extra on a dcr modified one or SNL billet one ( i got the snl billet one) its a really nice piece.

[DodgeZdad]

theres adjustment on where the master connects to the pedal adjust that to allow the master more movement. i just did mine this week as it started a slight 2ng gear grind. problem went away 100%.

if that doesn't help, the forks are known to go bad. if you replace it spend the extra on a dcr modified one or SNL billet one ( i got the snl billet one) its a really nice piece.

My kept my fork at 40,000 miles when I put a spec 2 in. I will be putting a spec 2 1/2 in and fork at 110,000 miles. My fork lasted a long while because spec clutches are very light and don't wear them as much as some of the high pressure ones. I'll have pic when we get it out next week.

[spoolinhard]

I replaced the clutch disc and throw out bearings. I sent my TOB fork to darrel cox to refurbish it. I drilled apart the modular clutch and bolted it back together. I put it back together, I adjusted the clutch pedal rod all the way forward. The car will now not go into gear with it running. What happens is that with the clutch depressed, it will not go into gear, but as you try the car will start moving in the direction of the gear that I try to put it into.