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john1320
11-03-2011, 09:57 PM
For the Daytona do I go with the 4 or 6" radius bends? (for the 90*, have 2 in basket) Also any tips going over the rear? (one 45* bend section is in my basket as well)
I know it will be tight- I'm having Scotty do the welding and milder bending/ fabbing.

:)

Force Fed Mopar
11-03-2011, 10:36 PM
Probably the 6". You don't need really tight bends, but you will have to get creative with it. Here's the regular bend 3" I had installed on mine.

350483504935050350513505235053

john1320
11-03-2011, 11:30 PM
Okay that gives me more thought- will be doing two 45s, now that i see that area over the rear better. Yours looks good!

Force Fed Mopar
11-04-2011, 08:48 AM
Yeah it's not mandrel, but it's enough, and it only cost me $150 ( supplied the dp and muffler).

BadAssPerformance
11-04-2011, 12:47 PM
For cutting and welding your own MB exhaust, I usually buy 180° U-bends to get the bends then some regular straight. You get more "°" to play with for each "U" for *similar* money to a 90°.

After the DP, need 90° to go towards DS, then 90° to go rearwards, then 2 ~45° or so to get over the axle around the tank, so 270° maens get 2 "U"s and you have 90° to spare.

Also, FWIW, a muffler shop bent 3" like Rob has is what was on my Z EONS ago and has been handed down to the T2Shadow 6-7 years ago. On the Shadow (stock '87 2.25" SV and DP) it has run 12.89@104 with either the open DP or the complete MSB 3" with Dynomax muffler out the back... of course the DP/SV are the next restrictions, but even MSB works well

supercrackerbox
11-04-2011, 01:15 PM
Slightly off topic -- JT, how do you make the little degree symbol?

BadAssPerformance
11-04-2011, 01:22 PM
Top secret.. LOL ;)

Gotta use the number pad... so hold <Alt> key down, then type 2, 4, then 8 on keypad, then release <Alt> key. If you have a laptop with integrated keypad (on Fn command overlayed on letter keys) then hold both <Alt> and <Fn>. There are a ton of them, a couple popular ones I learned back in engineering school:

241 = ±
248 = °

looneytuner
11-04-2011, 02:17 PM
° It works~!

john1320
11-04-2011, 07:47 PM
Great input there on the 180s. I'm going with that advice, it just makes good sense and better use of the materials. The shop has reg 3" stock on hand, and its included in the labor. I think he can still spread the ends to slip-fit everything together. Any slight bends he can do there with very little "crush" effect, on the rest.
:o

Force Fed Mopar
11-04-2011, 08:01 PM
Yeah, I figure the crush bends are not really an issue on 3" pipe till you get to like 400 horse or something. Unless you get the crinkle bend stuff lol, that stuff can't be too good for flow.

BadAssPerformance
11-04-2011, 09:32 PM
Ya, the crinckle cut acordian bends SUCK!

BadAssPerformance
11-04-2011, 09:44 PM
Shadow 3"

Force Fed Mopar
11-04-2011, 09:49 PM
You should paint the muffler tip pipe black :thumb: I used a 3" dp I bought from TU years ago for the GLHS.

BadAssPerformance
11-04-2011, 09:54 PM
LOL, that is kinda "stealthy" :eyebrows:

john1320
11-04-2011, 11:31 PM
I can't wait to use the v-band 3" dump pipe with the 3" ATP O2 housing. That won't happen until we get the head done by Mike after the holidays... ugh the pain of waiting..