2.4 rebuild info requested

[moparman76_69]

I'm going to put a new oil pump in the 2.4 I'm building since the pickup had RTV packed in it and the oil had pieces of bearing in it, and I see that a new pump on rockauto is 122 for pre 98? or 300 :yuck: for a 98 to 2000. Just wondering if there was anyway to rebuild it or maybe what to check to see if it even needs to be replaced.

Also if I need oversized bearings which is a possibility after seeing the main journals today, what is the best brand? I've seen that some people claim the clevites are junk for boost and mopar is the best but use king bearings if you need oversize.

Last but not least it seems the head gaskets don't have the same issues ours supposedly do as long as they are MLS. So I can use a victor-reinz gasket and be fine? I plan on ordering a full set and the victor is the best price with the sealed power being much more expensive. I might get the sealed power anyway since they seem to be Fel-pro gaskets.

Also it looks like the main/bedplate bolts, rod bolts and head bolts are all torque to yield so they all need replacing right? If I use stock rod bolts will I need to have the rods re-sized or is that just if going arp?

I'm a 2.4 noob so bear with me.

[A.J.]

Are you talking N/A or turbo. On the SRT-4 I'm building I bought all Mopar parts, they're cheap. If I were you I'd price check with the dealer, the prices are sometimes cheaper than aftermarket. Turbo crank and rod bearing are different than N/A. Rods are not resizable, you have to buy new. Rods bolts MUST be replaced. Bedplate bolts are reusable. The turbo oil pump flows more than N/A. I think you can buy just the oil pump innards but I am not sure. You can disassemble the pump to inspect it. There are measurable service limits for the pump.

A.J.

[moparman76_69]

Yeah I was thinking mopar for the head bolts, bearings, rings and rod bolts. Supposedly using the LS1 ARP bolts means the rods need resized, then again that was just from reading on SRTforums. I think to go to the later SRT oil pump requires you to go to the srt oil pan and tensioner setup. The engine I have appears to be a 96, the only casting I see is on the oil pump though.

[A.J.]

You cannot resize cracked cap rods if that's what you have. Are the surfaces between the cap and rod jagged or smooth? Jagged=cracked cap=can not resize. Smooth=not cracked cap=you can resize. You can use arp studs but you can't resize the rods if they are cracked cap. The tensioner in '96 is hydraulic and the SRT-4 tensioner is mechanical. It'd be best to stick with the '96 parts.

Check out this article. It has a lot of good information but some people have said it's not accurate: http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Content/Site302/SpecialIssue/11_01_2007/1898Chrysler110_00000002282.pdf

A.J.

[moparman76_69]

Yeah I'd rather have the mechanical tensioner. I thought the turbo oil pump was used because of the oil squirters on the turbo engines. They are the SRT4 cracked cap rods. I figured since the bolt was not a press fit into the rod that resizing wouldn't be needed anyway.

[A.J.]

The oil pump was upgraded to handle the extra oil required for the turbo and the squirters. What are your plans for this build anyways?

A.J.

[moparman76_69]

In fantasy world would be 450 hp at the wheels realistically would like 300 wheel. Seems the stock srt pistons/rods give out over that supposedly. I scored the long block for free but in the teardown discovered all the rods and mains are toast and the crank took a beating. Kid supposedly did 7000 rpm clutch drops with it and this was his 3rd or 4th engine that developed rod knock. Hoping the block can accept stock bore and the crank can be cleaned up. I'm putting it in the van with the 523 that I already have in it.

[A.J.]

Piston/rod assemblies from the dealer are relatively cheap if you can keep the stock bore. 1FastCSX289 built a SRT-4 from and earlier block I believe. You might want to do a search on him and see what he did. My 2.4 turbo build is from a 2003 SRT-4 complete engine so I started with everything I needed.

A.J.