What brackets / hangers are you guys using on 3" exhaust systems?

[Shadowjake]

I bought a JRB exhaust system from FWD Performance years ago it doesn't have any support brackets. I will have to weld some on. The stock ones that were on it look like the pics below and I'd like to stick with that style if available in 3" since it offers a lot of welding surface. But I can't find them anywhere.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j_5W2rL4xwE/TmeAAX5Gw4I/AAAAAAAAD9g/aArYeGpCdtg/s800/IMAG0369.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-IpSWmJusiTQ/TmeAEi4TpyI/AAAAAAAAD9k/9_YCik3862o/s800/IMAG0368.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8Toxr1tUUeo/TmeAI8YKvoI/AAAAAAAAD9o/mJ3HrmDcUCI/s800/IMAG0367.jpg

I wish I would have just gotten the TU system since it comes with supports welded on. But I don't trust my welding skills to attach supports like they do here:

http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/daytonashadow-mandrel-back-exhaust-system-pi-273.html

Any suggestions or links to a good bracket to use? I've been looking over at Summit and a lot of it can work, but not perfectly.

Thanks.

[Shadowjake]

OR can I just cut the brackets off the old exhaust, clean them up and expand them a little to fit the 3" pipe and weld them on? I think I just solved my own dilema. Thanks for nothin' guys :p

[turbovanman²]

I just use the stock brackets, exhaust doesn't vibrate with the stock stuff.

Is that the rusty exhaust from FWD? If so, :faint:

[Shadowjake]

Ok, cool that's what I'll do. I'll re-use the stock brackets from the exhaust pictured after cleaning them up.

Oh, no no no. That is the old stock 2 1/4" exhaust that was on the CSX. It's actually a hodge podge mix of 2 1/4" downpipe welded to 3" cat pipe welded to 2 1/4". It's rough and is being replaced with full 3" (swing valve, downpipe, exhaust, and muffler).

The 3" from FWD is still aluminized and pretty and been sitting in my basement since 2006. I'll post pics when I get to it. Otherwise, just monitor my build thread in my signature. Thanks.

[4 l-bodies]

Jake,
In my experience the last several exhaust systems installed from JRB/FWD required about 3-4" added between the two 90's. This was on L, P, and E body cars, so be a good cub scout and be prepared.;) All those exhaust systems seem to fit not like a glove, but rather a one size fits all mitten.
Todd

[Mopar318]

I cut the old one off and welded it on my exhaust.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/Picture028.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/Picture032.jpg

[Ondonti]

My TU exhaust came with one of the brackets cut off and I had to pay shipping to get the one he cut off.

My original non FWD JRB is over 9 years old now. If fits a lot better then the TU exhaust that I had to hack and reclock and then cut and reweld brake line brackets etc.

You get what you pay for. Adding a few inches between the 90's is better then an over axle pipe that doesn't fit. I don't know why you would need to add that to L P and E body cars when they are nothing alike.
The very idea of "we give you a bunch of pieces so you can try to reclock things so they will fit" does not = a better system. Are any of them really that good? Either people like to make up stories about all the different exhaust systems sucking because they are biased, or these exhaust systems are not built well and no two sets are the same. No two sets of exhaust being the same makes stories about exhaust systems worthless.

The thing I know is the over axle pipe is perfect on a real JRB, the over axle on TU is not perfect. No idea what FWD has done to the JRB jigs in the time they have had them. Sounds like the over axle is still good which is the only real important part of the exhaust.

[4 l-bodies]

My TU exhaust came with one of the brackets cut off and I had to pay shipping to get the one he cut off.

My original non FWD JRB is over 9 years old now. If fits a lot better then the TU exhaust that I had to hack and reclock and then cut and reweld brake line brackets etc.

...Adding a few inches between the 90's is better then an over axle pipe that doesn't fit. I don't know why you would need to add that to L P and E body cars when they are nothing alike.
The very idea of "we give you a bunch of pieces so you can try to reclock things so they will fit" does not = a better system. Are any of them really that good? Either people like to make up stories about all the different exhaust systems sucking because they are biased, or these exhaust systems are not built well and no two sets are the same. No two sets of exhaust being the same makes stories about exhaust systems worthless.

The thing I know is the over axle pipe is perfect on a real JRB, the over axle on TU is not perfect. No idea what FWD has done to the JRB jigs in the time they have had them. Sounds like the over axle is still good which is the only real important part of the exhaust.

Here is a few pics of the latest installed exhaust system I purchased from FWD Performance. Note black painted areas. These are areas that needed work. Either the bends were wrong, or the area between the bends was not long enough. This is very typical of the last half dozen or so systems I've installed. Doesn't seem to matter whether L-P-E body. They all seem to have the same issues. In this last one, the over the axle was way off. It ended up pointing into the trunk cavity. BTW what might fit with a center inlet would be totally wrong for a side inlet muffler application. This is where some of the fittment issues stem from. IMO, for all the modifications necessary, I find it easier to just start with mandrel bends and just build my own. That and FWD doesn't seem to want to stock 304 stainless systems anymore. IMO, the old FM systems were the best fitting.
I think you are correct, it seems the only consistency of the systems is their inconsistency. I was once told by Jessie Buhr that Hearthrob Exhaust (the manufacturer) told him the 304 stainless was more difficult to get repeated consistency.

[turbovanman²]

I find it easier to just start with mandrel bends and just build my own. That and FWD doesn't seem to want to stock 304 stainless systems anymore. IMO, the old FM systems were the best fitting.
I think you are correct, it seems the only consistency of the systems is their inconsistency. I was once told by Jessie Buhr that Hearthrob Exhaust (the manufacturer) told him the 304 stainless was more difficult to get repeated consistency.

Ditto, I've bought some systems and started doing the same, making my own. I don't understand why they would say that about 304?