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Sundance 6g72
08-05-2011, 01:37 PM
Okay so my car is steaming whenever i turn it off.

There is evidence of water being leaked out because it lands in the splash guard that is under the crank pully

it was NOT doing this before i changed my clutch and my coolant temp sensor.

IT is not leaking from the sensor, its below the sensor.. kind of like its coming from the housing that the coolant hose connects to. I dont think its leaking out of the hose because the hose is NEW and i checked the clamp on it last night and its secure (not the stock clamp, its a scew driver intake clamp)

I filled the car with coolant and after a 5min drive i have no pressure in the hoses and can take off the radiator cap. and it was FULL for sure.. im lost

the only things i can think of is water pump failed and is leaking.. or the lower intake gasket blew (not sure if that would cause coolant leak. not sure why it would blow) or the part that the coolant hose runs too blew its gasket.

plz help :(

---------- Post added at 01:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:35 PM ----------

also, the car warms up before it starts doing this.. i figured i was all good after letting it sit for a min.

RoadWarrior222
08-05-2011, 02:07 PM
Waterpump sounds most likely. Your second opinion on that comes from sparkly brass powder/flecks on the rad cap from the bearing.

bakes
08-05-2011, 02:16 PM
some passager side mounts bolts go into coolant passages if not sealed they can leak

Sundance 6g72
08-05-2011, 02:31 PM
some passager side mounts bolts go into coolant passages if not sealed they can leak

with the 3.0???? this sounds likely if thats how the 3.0 mount works.. when we drained the coolant to do the tranny we let the motor sit pretty damn low and the only mount that was hooked was the passenger side mount. we might of Fed so something up

anyone have a second on the mount?

im really hoping its not the water pump. i know its overdue but i was having ZERO issues before the clutch job.. i dont believe in coincidences

turbovanmanČ
08-05-2011, 02:38 PM
I would carefully check for damaged hoses, when hanging the engine, you can strain them and put a small pinhole leak. Can you borrow a pressure tester? I hear Autozone etc rents them out.

Sundance 6g72
08-05-2011, 02:54 PM
pressure tester?

the hose is brand new... i did install the passenger side hose before we finished the clutch but i dont think thats the culprit. The steam is rising from under the T stat.. or right at the T stat. there was no water on the hose when i checked it last.. i guess ill check it again later when i pull of the intake. With the plenum flipped.. its a ----- to get to anything over there. 8 bolts with lockwashers on them makes it even more of a ----- to pull off.. time consuming.

turbovanmanČ
08-05-2011, 03:15 PM
pressure tester?

.

Yes, its a tool used to pressurize the cooling system to find leaks, :p

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-an-Auto-Radiator-Pressure-Tester/

Sundance 6g72
08-05-2011, 03:21 PM
ill have to rent one. nice that you can run it without the car running.. makes things a hell of alot easier

im going to tear into the car.. ill report back later

c2xejk
08-05-2011, 04:00 PM
I would think the O-rings for the coolant crossover tube are more likely... Possibly the bypass hose.

RoadWarrior222
08-05-2011, 04:13 PM
Could be, if those were disturbed, but thought you could usually just about spot them from the top and side....

Could also be the crosspipe rusted out in the middle somewhere and it's dripping out the valley.

Sundance 6g72
08-05-2011, 04:19 PM
I would think the O-rings for the coolant crossover tube are more likely... Possibly the bypass hose.
this is what ryan thinks too


the tranny was pulled thus disturbing the coolant tube thats under the lower intake. i might have messed it up. im trying to pull the lower intake but the dizzy is in the way.. im not sure how to remove the dizzy without scewin up its timing

bond_bbs
08-05-2011, 04:23 PM
I would think the O-rings for the coolant crossover tube are more likely... Possibly the bypass hose.

Second that.

Also - not sure if anybody else has had this (I can find pics for those who want them), but the factory rear waterpump housing that was on my 3.0L had been corroded from the inside out (where the crossover tube fits in).. it was all jagged with pieces missing / eaten away. It was like the aluminum had acid poured on it. If it is something similar on your car, be aware that the rear housing of the waterpump is a seperate part than the actual waterpump (front housing with pump) when buying parts.

Hopefully that is not the case on your part.

RoadWarrior222
08-05-2011, 04:25 PM
WEll you just scribe or paint the diz position and unbolt it, then as long as you DON'T TURN THE MOTOR AT ALL it will be good to put it back, unless you leave it to sit overnight, in which case the lifters can bleed down and the cam settle forward or back a few degrees.

c2xejk
08-05-2011, 04:31 PM
I would do two things.

With the engine at TDC (should be able to tell by the front cam). Mark the rotor position with a Sharpie.
Mark the distributor rotational position with either a Sharpie or a paint pen. (paint pen will likely show up better.)

Between those two you should be able to R&R the distributor and get it very close to what it is now.

Sundance 6g72
08-05-2011, 05:06 PM
i pulled the altanotor off and it let me get the intake off. dizzy is still in

i dont think the main coolant tube that runs under the lower intake is the cause.

what is the bypas hose? is it that little guy that is next to the t stat?

all gaskets look good so far.. nothing blew out. Im lost now. it might be the little coolant hose that is next to the t stat but i dont understand why it would be.

this all started after i pulled the tranny, replaced coolant hoses, replaced coolant temp sensor. The motor was also sitting at an angle. why would something like a bad water pump just now start giving issues IMMEDIATELY after the car is started for the first time with the new clutch

RoadWarrior222
08-05-2011, 05:15 PM
Well if you had to baby it on the old clutch, running it hotter and harder testing the new clutch could have provoked it.

---------- Post added at 05:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:15 PM ----------

Doh, but you said immediately...

Sundance 6g72
08-05-2011, 05:21 PM
Well if you had to baby it on the old clutch, running it hotter and harder testing the new clutch could have provoked it.

---------- Post added at 05:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:15 PM ----------

Doh, but you said immediately...

dude, take brents videos of him pinning the limiter and times it by 10. Thats how much hell ive given the car with the stock clutch. no babying here. (okay maybe not more than brent has done but i beat the HELL out of this thing!)

and yes, it was immediately.. as far as i know, it didnt do this before and if it did, i should have noticed it because it would smoke when i turned the car off at a stop.. you could see steam coming out

Sundance 6g72
08-05-2011, 11:43 PM
i cant get the BIG tube out .. the one that sits under the lower intake for the coolant. I have the tranny end undone and i can wiggle it but the oring on the other side just wont give in

c2xejk
08-06-2011, 12:01 AM
Did you disconnect the bypass hose?

Sundance 6g72
08-06-2011, 12:06 AM
yes. all hoses disconnected, even that little guy. both bolts that keep the big tube in place are disconnected but it wont wiggle free

Sundance 6g72
08-06-2011, 12:34 AM
im getting tired.. im going to go to sleep.

please someone magically think of a fix for this. once this is fixed i can tap my oil pan.. run my return line, bolt the turbo on, make the downpipe, set the tune up for boost and be done with it.

bond_bbs
08-06-2011, 02:55 AM
The coolant crossover tube sometimes gets stuck real f'ing tight. I had to really REEF on mine to get it free.

Also -if you got the Felpro gasket kit for the 3.0L, it should come with 2 new orings for that pipe.

Did you find anything that looked like a potential source of the leak once you got the lower intake off?

Sundance 6g72
08-06-2011, 11:19 AM
i guiess ill have to try harder


nothing looks like it was leaking. the lower intake gaskets looked great, the bypass hose was the worse thing i could find and it was still not that bad and kind of fought me to come off. There is a puddle of water under the big tube so hopefully it is the cause of my problem but i wont know until i get it off.

and yes, i have the gasket kit so im covered on my gaskets

Sundance 6g72
08-06-2011, 01:53 PM
i got the tube out.. it looks fine.. and the oring is worn but its still good enough to seal, i can tell you that much. ill give it new orings but im at a loss..

---------- Post added at 01:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:45 PM ----------

i think the only thing left is the water pump :(

unless it was the thermastat housing? i doubt it though.. i think i would have seen that. The car also lost ALOT of water but you couldnt visibly see it.. as if it was hidden. im going to check the timing belt for wetness

Sundance 6g72
08-06-2011, 03:15 PM
:banghead:

id put it all back together but the Tstat housing has a broken bolt stuck in it... !!! i dont have the tools to get it out and nonone will pick up their phones to help me

bakes
08-06-2011, 03:18 PM
i have had the gaskets on the water pump go too you need to pull the front cover and take a look because when they leak the leak onto the belt.

RoadWarrior222
08-06-2011, 03:38 PM
Gaskets smaskets, if you are all the way in there REPLACE THE DAMN PUMP especially if it's more than 80,000 miles since it's last one.

---------- Post added at 03:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:35 PM ----------

Oh, sometimes you'll get a thermostat housing to seal up with one bolt, good RTV and a prayer, but don't expect it to hold long, or take any hard running.

Sundance 6g72
08-06-2011, 03:49 PM
Gaskets smaskets, if you are all the way in there REPLACE THE DAMN PUMP especially if it's more than 80,000 miles since it's last one.

---------- Post added at 03:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:35 PM ----------

Oh, sometimes you'll get a thermostat housing to seal up with one bolt, good RTV and a prayer, but don't expect it to hold long, or take any hard running.

im not all the way in there right now but i guess your right.. i should change them out.

im not putting it back together with one bolt.. LOL

c2xejk
08-06-2011, 05:59 PM
When you put it back together, put some dish soap on the O-rings to lube them so they slide in easier.

RoadWarrior222
08-06-2011, 06:05 PM
Way less than half a bottle though.... Can see it now...

Help! Foaming from rad cap :(

Sundance 6g72
08-06-2011, 09:21 PM
ill use soap but i have some nice paintball oil and grease that should do the job.. you only need a super small amount of this stuff to lube an oring up


i think im going to keep tearing into it on monday when i have a jack and some jackstands along with an impact

RoadWarrior222
08-06-2011, 09:49 PM
You'll want a harmonic balancer puller too, and possibly a chain or strap wrench.... though maybe not with an impact.

---------- Post added at 09:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:41 PM ----------

Oh and if your passenger side mount is iffy or getting on, it's a good time to stick one of those on, since you'll have that off to jack the motor up and down to reach stuff.

---------- Post added at 09:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:42 PM ----------

This kit works, not sure where you can find it in the US though, might be in Sears, since I see Sears results when I search for it, but then get redirected to the Canadian site which doesn't have it.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoTools/PullerTools/PRDOVR~0253608P/Powerbuilt%2525AE%252BHarmonic%252BBalancer%252BPu ller.jsp?locale=en

87turbodance
08-06-2011, 10:23 PM
To loosen a stuck crank pulley / damper bolt I wrap a power bar in a rag and lay the end against the front cor support. One crank of the engine will loosen that bolt with ease. I take no responsibility for damage to your car :)

Sundance 6g72
08-06-2011, 10:51 PM
To loosen a stuck crank pulley / damper bolt I wrap a power bar in a rag and lay the end against the front cor support. One crank of the engine will loosen that bolt with ease. I take no responsibility for damage to your car :)

that idea is on eds sight as well but he too is worried about people killing them selves by doing it

the impact i have access to will take anything apart.

---------- Post added at 10:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:51 PM ----------


You'll want a harmonic balancer puller too, and possibly a chain or strap wrench.... though maybe not with an impact.

---------- Post added at 09:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:41 PM ----------

Oh and if your passenger side mount is iffy or getting on, it's a good time to stick one of those on, since you'll have that off to jack the motor up and down to reach stuff.

---------- Post added at 09:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:42 PM ----------

This kit works, not sure where you can find it in the US though, might be in Sears, since I see Sears results when I search for it, but then get redirected to the Canadian site which doesn't have it.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoTools/PullerTools/PRDOVR~0253608P/Powerbuilt%25AE%2BHarmonic%2BBalancer%2BPuller.jsp ?locale=en (http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoTools/PullerTools/PRDOVR%7E0253608P/Powerbuilt%25AE%2BHarmonic%2BBalancer%2BPuller.jsp ?locale=en)

thanks! but i think the impact will do the job

bond_bbs
08-06-2011, 11:16 PM
You can use a standard 2 or 3 jaw-type puller instead of a bolt type puller like suggested to remove the harmonic balancer... that's if you have one.

c2xejk
08-07-2011, 06:57 AM
that idea is on eds sight as well but he too is worried about people killing them selves by doing it

the impact i have access to will take anything apart.


I think that is just some legal mumbo jumbo... ie "If you kill yourself working on your car, don't blame me..." :) I do the pry bar frame method all the time. My hi-torque impact wrench struggles with the crank bolt...

When was the last time the timing belt was changed? If more than 60K miles or 5 years, I would definitely change it now!

Sundance 6g72
08-07-2011, 07:22 AM
When was the last time the timing belt was changed? If more than 60K miles or 5 years, I would definitely change it now!

http://imgs.pbnation.com/smilies/runaway.gif http://imgs.pbnation.com/smilies/biggrin.gif

lets just say i should change it

Ondonti
08-08-2011, 08:55 AM
Could also be the crosspipe rusted out in the middle somewhere and it's dripping out the valley. Thats what killed my Spirit's headgasket in the middle of my last tow. I drove 200 miles pulling over and stopping every 15 miles to refill. Must have gotten a hotspot at some point.

Sundance 6g72
08-08-2011, 10:51 AM
mine looks great so far

im buying a timing belt and water pump todayy and ill start on that

Sundance 6g72
08-08-2011, 05:14 PM
so when i finished the clutch job, i went for a pee break while a friend of mine put my wheels on. He impacted them on... and now i cant get the last lug off. thats just awesome.. any socket i take to it eventually slips off with either an impact or a breaker bar. i am soooooooo FREAKING pissed

turbovanmanČ
08-08-2011, 07:33 PM
You can use a standard 2 or 3 jaw-type puller instead of a bolt type puller like suggested to remove the harmonic balancer... that's if you have one.

I wouldn't recommend that, you can pull the outer ring clean off then you'll be buying a new damper, :(

Sundance 6g72
08-08-2011, 08:29 PM
right now all im worried about is getting the damn wheel off

zin
08-08-2011, 09:11 PM
so when i finished the clutch job, i went for a pee break while a friend of mine put my wheels on. He impacted them on... and now i cant get the last lug off. thats just awesome.. any socket i take to it eventually slips off with either an impact or a breaker bar. i am soooooooo FREAKING pissed

Might just need to over-tighten it and snap it off, then replace that stud, actually maybe all of them if they've been over-torqued... Don't want the wheels literally falling off (been there done that! No fun!).

Mike

bond_bbs
08-08-2011, 10:16 PM
I wouldn't recommend that, you can pull the outer ring clean off then you'll be buying a new damper, :(

Providing you use a bit of penetrating oil and tap the steal ring with a hammer lightly to break it loose, it comes off quite nicely. That has always been my method and never once done any damage to them.

I guess if you just jammed the puller on and started cranking or took an air ratchet / impact to it, you could do some serious damage.

Sundance 6g72
08-08-2011, 10:18 PM
Might just need to over-tighten it and snap it off, then replace that stud, actually maybe all of them if they've been over-torqued... Don't want the wheels literally falling off (been there done that! No fun!).

Mike

i dont want to overtighten.. ive seen impacts go through a RIM!!!! no joke.

zin
08-09-2011, 12:28 AM
Guess it comes down to the least expensive method of getting the job done. If it was an inexpensive /common wheel, I'd probably sacrifice the wheel, but if those special sockets are cheap enough just use one of them, just don't expect you'll get more than one use out of it when you figure total costs.

Good Luck!

Mike

Ondonti
08-09-2011, 05:01 AM
Not hard to replace the stud if you break it.

RoadWarrior222
08-09-2011, 08:21 AM
Use fire, lots of fire.... an insurance claim's worth :D

bond_bbs
08-09-2011, 09:04 AM
Use fire, lots of fire.... an insurance claim's worth :D

At least that will dry up any leaks he may have!

Sundance 6g72
08-09-2011, 09:39 AM
i dont care about replacing the stud... im worried about over tightening and going through the wheel. I like the factory wheels.

i dont even think i could overtighten if i wanted too. The lug is morel like a nut and i can see that its not on the stud's threads correctly

c2xejk
08-09-2011, 11:45 AM
The options I see. One, take a slightly undersized socket (sacrifical, possibly SAE) and hammer it onto the lug nut. Two, there are special sockets with a left-hand twist so they drive on tighter as you try and loosen the lug nut. Three, if you have room around the lug nut use a die grinder or dremel to cut a groove one one side of the lug nut to release the tension on the nut. Four, drill out the stud.

Good Luck.
Ed Kelly - www.kmperformance.com

Sundance 6g72
08-09-2011, 12:38 PM
i dont care about replacing the stud... im worried about over tightening and going through the wheel.&nbsp; I like the factory wheels.&nbsp; <br><br>i dont even think i could overtighten if i wanted too.&nbsp; The lug is morel like a nut and i can see that its not on the stud's threads correctly

ive been trying the hammer. I need a to get a better hammer.. my current one is a little guy. next option is the wimpy mallet

the thing is, the nut is angled. once i get on it with a socket, it eventually slips. i might have to cut it

bond_bbs
08-09-2011, 01:08 PM
A trick that nobody has mentioned that comes in handy for really jammed stuff - take a blowtorch, light it, and (not using the cutting blast, just the flame!) heat the lug nut up. Not the wheel or stud, but just the lug nut the best you can and as evenly as possible. You don't need it red hot, but like 30 seconds of evenly heating it should do the trick.

The heat will cause the lug nut to expand, and while it's still hot you take a several foot breaker bar (if you don't have one too long, find a piece of pipe that'll slide over the breaker bar handle), get a friend to hold the breaker bar / socket on the lug with gloves (HOT after torch) and you put your body weight on the breaker bar. If you get it hot enough evenly enough, you may not even need to extend the breaker bar.

I would try this before drilling out the studs, as those things are tough as hell.

If you can get it to crack loose, and it stops, give it a bit more heat but not too much as you don't want to start melting the lug / stud, or warping the wheel / rotors that are absorbing some of the heat as well.

Sundance 6g72
08-09-2011, 02:02 PM
ill try to heat it up when i get a chance.... i have a huge pipe for my breaker bar and it always seems like it working but the socket just slips.. even if its a size small that was hammerd on.

RoadWarrior222
08-09-2011, 02:58 PM
Are you sure it's the socket slipping, are these "cap" nuts? with a fancy chrome shell over the top? Sometimes you just need to pry/tear that crap off and deal with the real nut underneath.

Sundance 6g72
08-09-2011, 03:23 PM
ill try to heat it up when i get a chance.... i have a huge pipe for my breaker bar and it always seems like it working but the socket just slips.. even if its a size small that was hammerd on.

its not crome

the ones are 3/4inch lugs but the one that is stuck is a different size NUT type lug. Its deff not a cromed out thing but its obviously not super high quality

zin
08-09-2011, 04:09 PM
ill try to heat it up when i get a chance.... i have a huge pipe for my breaker bar and it always seems like it working but the socket just slips.. even if its a size small that was hammered on.

its not chrome

the ones are 3/4inch lugs but the one that is stuck is a different size NUT type lug. Its deff not a chromed out thing but its obviously not super high quality

That socket seems to be yielding, so you'll either need an sacrificial impact socket, or one of the purpose built units, if you go this route...

Its always got to be something doesn't it?!

Mike

Sundance 6g72
08-09-2011, 04:35 PM
yep

change the clutch, clutch works. But suddly we have a coolant leak. Try to get to timing belt and wheel dosnt come off!!

i have all craftsmen tools so im not worried about ruining a socket.

zin
08-09-2011, 07:39 PM
i have all craftsmen tools so im not worried about ruining a socket.

Not so much that you'll ruin it, more it will give/expand letting the nut slip past, rounding the points more and more, a more rigid socket/thicker wall will hold its shape better so it doesn't loose it's grip... But I think your socket with a generous dose of heat will get the job done easy enough (or so I would hope!)

Mike

Big_P
08-09-2011, 09:37 PM
Make sure you're using SIX point sockets.

Sundance 6g72
08-09-2011, 10:00 PM
yes, only useing 6 points

RoadWarrior222
08-10-2011, 11:41 AM
How deep/narrow are the pockets the nut is in? ...... coz about now I'd probably get a thin chisel sharpened up and cut down the sides of the nut to split it off.

Sundance 6g72
08-10-2011, 12:06 PM
if i can find a chisel to do that with... today is a bad day for working on the car.

87turbodance
08-10-2011, 01:39 PM
I vote ED's idea. Hammer on a slightly smaller block impact socket and remove the bolt with a power bar with a big piece of pipe on the end. You'll either turn the nut off or twist the stud off. Either outcome will get the wheel off and both will likely require a new stud.

I've used the slightly smaller socket method numerous times with success for many different nuts and bolt.

Sundance 6g72
08-10-2011, 02:16 PM
ill have to get a bigger hammer because i got a smaller socket on there pretty good and still ended up slipping

ill get at it tomorrow

RoadWarrior222
08-10-2011, 02:21 PM
You'll either turn the nut off or twist the stud off.

The 3rd option where our friend Murphy is involved is it goes..*click* *click* *click* as you turn it, meaning you've stripped the splines in the stud :D

bond_bbs
08-10-2011, 04:24 PM
Edit: Nvm.

87turbodance
08-10-2011, 05:31 PM
The 3rd option where our friend Murphy is involved is it goes..*click* *click* *click* as you turn it, meaning you've stripped the splines in the stud :D

Forgot about that one. Never experienced it myself but my buddy did on his 2000 Chev 1500. Had to to cut the nut in half with a dremel