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85_600
07-17-2006, 05:13 PM
Yep! Finally the time has come - the head comes off my 600 Wed 07/19/06.

Mark your calendars!! :p

I have a Haynes book for the 600 BUT, is there anything that any of you would recommend doing/unhooking/checking/whatever that a book doesn't cover to make the job easier?

About the only thing I can think of at this point is marking the timing belt and cam sprocket with a paint pen or something like it so I can just hang the belt from the hood and not loose my timing (hopefully not loose it).

I'll make a separate post when I actually get the head off and it will include BIG pics and perhaps a video. I'm having my fathers neighbor help me. He's an old school V8 Mopar guy who still races his Demon. I figured this is better than tackling this on my own :o

So, is there anything else that you'd like to share from your experience of removing a head from a 2.2?

Thanks,
Paul

tryingbe
07-17-2006, 05:27 PM
Buy PB blaster and use it on downpipe, turbo suppoert bracket, etc..

Jack up the car and disconnect downpipe, turbo support bracket, coolant drain hose, oil line... and everything UNDER the car. Then, lower the car and remove everything from the top of the car.

Takes me less than 2 hrs to remove the head now.

85_600
07-17-2006, 05:49 PM
Buy PB blaster and use it on downpipe, turbo suppoert bracket, etc..

Jack up the car and disconnect downpipe, turbo support bracket, coolant drain hose, oil line... and everything UNDER the car. Then, lower the car and remove everything from the top of the car.

Takes me less than 2 hrs to remove the head now.

Already got the PB..:thumb:

I 'was' going to put the car on ramps and do everything underneath, then just leave it on the ramps. Not a good idea??

Also, I'm going to, for good measure, do one last compression test. I've read where you're to do this on a warmed up motor. So, if I do this, how long will it take to cool down before I can start draining the coolant?

85_600
07-17-2006, 06:39 PM
Something else I just thought of - "IF" my problem is just valve related, would it be possible to leave the intake and exhaust/turbo attached to the head to get the valves done? Just thinking of one les step of removing stuff that is rusty and therefore, avoiding a possible problem. I'm not looking for a cheapy way out, just thinking of avoiding potential problem areas.

Thanks,
Paul

86Shelby
07-17-2006, 06:47 PM
If you end up sending the head to the machine shop you should remove the intake/exhaust manifolds. If you can't get them off, call the machine shop to let them know and see if they are willing to do it for you. It'll cost more that way, may extend it's stay another day.

85_600
07-17-2006, 07:00 PM
If you end up sending the head to the machine shop you should remove the intake/exhaust manifolds. If you can't get them off, call the machine shop to let them know and see if they are willing to do it for you. It'll cost more that way, may extend it's stay another day.

I'm thinking that the neighbor may be able to help out on this. He's rebuilt his Demon's motor before so I'm sure he knows what he's doing. If not he said he knows a few guys that can work on them. At least I'll have the head off = easier to remove those stubborn nuts and what not. :thumb:

Thanks!

tryingbe
07-17-2006, 07:29 PM
The on ramps? Bad idea, unless you have an engine hoist. It's heavy enough as it is to LIFT the head, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, AND turbo at current height of the vechile with two people.

Unless you have an engine hoist or you're super tall and strong, do in on ground level.

Just do a COLD compression test.

85_600
07-17-2006, 07:39 PM
The on ramps? Bad idea, unless you have an engine hoist. It's heavy enough as it is to LIFT the head, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, AND turbo at current height of the vechile with two people.

Unless you have an engine hoist or you're super tall and strong, do in on ground level.

Just do a COLD compression test.

I'll have a hoist, but I think the off ramp deal is good. Just a bit more pumping up and down that's all.

Cold test again it is then. I just wanted to get an accurate reading that's all. The outside temp is going to be HOT, like almost 90* so maybe that will heat things up :D

GLHSKEN
07-17-2006, 07:59 PM
The head will bolt up to an engine stand.

85_600
07-17-2006, 08:26 PM
Oh, I'm glad I made this post, I just thought of something else.

Any of you that have had compression problems AND it's been ring related, like broken ring lands, have you been able to see anything wrong just by looking at the top of the piston or cylinder walls? Any scoring or some burn/melted marks on the top of the piston? I'd hate to pull the pan (if needed) just to find out that my low compression piston is just fine.

Thanks again!
Paul

85_600
07-17-2006, 08:28 PM
And something else :o

What's the best way to lift the head/intake/exhaust/turbo off the head with a hoist? IE: Where's the best place to put the strap? Around the intake manny and then "help" the head off?

Tanks Again! :D
P

86Shelby
07-17-2006, 08:36 PM
Any of you that have had compression problems AND it's been ring related, like broken ring lands, have you been able to see anything wrong just by looking at the top of the piston or cylinder walls? Any scoring or some burn/melted marks on the top of the piston? I'd hate to pull the pan (if needed) just to find out that my low compression piston is just fine.


If one of the cylinders is reading low compression put some oil in the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do it again. If the reading increases substantially there is a problem with the rings or piston. If teh reading does not change, then it is int he headgasket or valves. using oil during the compression test is called a 'wet' compression test, just fyi.

85_600
07-17-2006, 08:38 PM
If one of the cylinders is reading low compression put some oil in the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do it again. If the reading increases substantially there is a problem with the rings or piston. If teh reading does not change, then it is int he headgasket or valves. using oil during the compression test is called a 'wet' compression test, just fyi.

The low reading (90 psi) went to 100 when I did the test the first time. Compared to the other cylinders (150,120,125) I don't think that makes a "substantial) increase...but I'm not a pro so...would that be ring problem? My fathers neighbor seems to think valves.

The weird thing about this is - I'm not burning any oil or using any coolant...nothing...just the usual amount of oil and no coolant usage at all. No chocolate looking coolant - it's still green. Oil looks fine as well - no foaming, no nothing - just a oil look...And the plugs look fine as well...

cordes
07-18-2006, 12:48 AM
I am a pretty big guy, but I usually just pick the head up out of the car myself. Then I have another person help me drop it down on the studs that I have made out of old head bolts to guide it down.

If you have another person there I don't think it will give you any trouble at all. I think the whole thing only weighs about 80lbs. The biggest problem will probably be the DP bolts.

mark
07-18-2006, 09:39 AM
I am a pretty big guy, but I usually just pick the head up out of the car myself. Then I have another person help me drop it down on the studs that I have made out of old head bolts to guide it down.

If you have another person there I don't think it will give you any trouble at all. I think the whole thing only weighs about 80lbs. The biggest problem will probably be the DP bolts.

holy crap thats a great idea with old head bolts. i never thought of that!

the DP bolts, soak the crap out of them with pb blaster asap, and do it very often, that stuff works wonders.

Spraynlog
07-18-2006, 12:02 PM
Well, I found out a couple good things here! Using old head bolts as studs when putting the head back on. Using an engine stand to mount the head on.

It sounds like you have things covered with a knowledgable neighbor to help. Two can lift the head off pretty easy. It is kinda tough for one guy.

While you have the head off is a GREAT time to remove/replace the 02 sensor on the exhaust manny. Soak it with PB, and take a 7/8" 6 point after it. I ended up using a large pipe wrench on mine! It was really a tight/rusted PITA!