Lm relocate

[roachjuice]

Anyone ever relocate the lm in an l body? Thinking about moving mine. Ever since I installed the fourplay it's been acting real wierd. I took the lm out to put the fourplay on. When I put it back in I put a chip I already had burned in it and it threw retarded codes. So I took the chip out and reinstalled the same chip and it went away. Then came back on and wouldn't rev past 3100. On the way to work this morning it was cutting out a little like a bad hep. I think it's a wire or something touching where they tuck in at. Because I can unbolt the lm and lay it on the floor board and it acts normal. So I thought about moving it to the glove box. Maybe someone else has had this problem? it's not the tune. It's not the chip. It's not the fourplay. I've had this problem in the past and it just went away until I took the lm out the car. So that's what makes me think it's a wire touching.

[PunKid]

Interesting, i am fighting a similar problem. Random codes that come and go. I have been wondering the same about a bad connect at the LM and maybe when you jam it up into place it pulls on it enough to pull the connector out a little

[boost geek]

I have had it a couple times that I had to push the red and blue connectors into the LM if it was acting funny, could be a wire not connecting on a pin properly. The glove box tray will have to be trimmed for the wire harness, makes chip changes fast and easy.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k302/boostgeek/100_1939.jpg

Thats an old pic with the map bleed, not using that any more.

[roachjuice]

ill deff keep this thread going. i honestly thought it was turbonator v12 at first. i think it may be a ground on the lm not connecting. like the sensor ground. i tried reproducing the problem with the lm on the floor board with no luck. as soon as i put that bastard back in place it does it lol. ill see what i can come up with.

[shackwrrr]

go along all the wires and tug on them see if any are loose or broken

[roachjuice]

Pin 25 on the blue plug was barely touching. I wiggled it and the engine shut off. Took it out and stripped it to expose some copper and shoved it in the plug. Fired right up. No codes. No weirdness yet. I'll keep posted.

[cordes]

If it won't rev past where you have the staging mod limiter set, that's usually a sign that the SDS isn't working right.

[roachjuice]

Sds? Whats that?

[cordes]

The speed distance sensor. If it fails, you'll be limited to the rev limiter for the staging mod in the cal. I've actually used that to trouble shoot the SDS before.

[bakes]

Speed and distance sensor

[roachjuice]

It's never worked before to my knowledge. So why would it randomly cause a problem when I move the lm? Lol. I know it doesn't work because I tried the staging limiter by speed thing and it wouldn't rev past the set limit. This was acting like a bad hep. Which it's not. It's never thrown a code for the speed sensor before.

[cordes]

It's never worked before to my knowledge. So why would it randomly cause a problem when I move the lm? Lol. I know it doesn't work because I tried the staging limiter by speed thing and it wouldn't rev past the set limit. This was acting like a bad hep. Which it's not. It's never thrown a code for the speed sensor before.

I'm not saying that's necessarily the problem, just throwing out a pertinent tip for when the car won't rev past an RPM near the staging mod limit.

[roachjuice]

Oh ok. Yea that is good to know.

[black86glhs]

It sounds exactly like what you described, a wire not making good contact.

[roachjuice]

Well it cut out on me this morning. This time it wasn't bad. Like a short blip like it lost spark because it got rich (10:0+) and slowly went back to normal. So when I get home today I'm gonna wiggle some hep wires and see if its a combo of the two. I've had some hep go bad or the wires dont make good contact. I really wish there was a simple solution to getting rid of the hep.

[roachjuice]

It's like it just lost spark for a second. It could be another loose connection by the lm. But it only did it once. And about a mile later I goosed it a little and nothing happened out of the ordinary.

[PunKid]

Yea the last time I had my LM out I really Jamed those connectors in. Since then my Check engine light has been off.

Will stored codes like 23,24,34,54 clear them selfs if the problem if fixed? Or do I need to disconnect the battery?

[roachjuice]

i honestly do not understand your questions lol. i think what your asking is will it store those codes? no it will not store the codes in my car if the cel is off. if its on yea it throw all sorts of shyt. the second question, ive never disconnected my battery to clear a code.

[PunKid]

Sorry it was actually related to my own car. My CEL light is off but if I check my codes I will show those codes. So I was wondering if it was a specifc amount of Key cycles or run time that the codes will self clear.

[roachjuice]

Oh ok lol. I don't think mine saves th random codes. I'll check when I leave work today. I'm sure the only one is 55.

[roachjuice]

Ok an update. Lm is connected good now. Random cut out still. So I swapped the hep out for testing. So far that seems to be what was going on. Every hep I've come across hasn't just died. It just cuts out random then drives like nothing is wrong. Everything I've read says they just die and dont come back. I

[roachjuice]

Hopefully the hep fixed it. At waffle house now. Hasn't cut out yet.

[Orangetona]

Actually the problem you were having with the hep is what ive mostly seen like 90% of the time. The other times it wouldnt even run. Imagine that wire was broken inside.

Also, my car was having those same codes, before. With the code 54 it wouldnt even run. (obviously) swapped LMs and the car is fine now.

[cordes]

The one hep I've had fail would cut out like you are describing. The key thing to notice that it's the hep is the tach will die instantly when it cuts out and will come alive when it comes back on.

[roachjuice]

Yep. That's what it did. Part of the problem WAS the lm. And the other was the hep. Hasnt cut out Yet. Luckily I bought 2 more the other day. They should be here in a few days.

[roachjuice]

I haven't bought a brand new one yet. Anyone have any luck with any aftermarket one in particular?

[cordes]

I haven't bought a brand new one yet. Anyone have any luck with any aftermarket one in particular?

I've been told by a couple folks that the ones from Rockauto last long enough to more than justify paying 1/3 or less the price of a Mopar one.

[roachjuice]

I was thinking about an Oreilly lifetime one lol. Breaks just swap it out.

[roachjuice]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v515/mobite/82396e2f.jpg
Only 50 bux.

[cordes]

I was thinking about an Oreilly lifetime one lol. Breaks just swap it out.

You can't go wrong with that warranty.

[roachjuice]

Word. Next time I have trouble I'll just buy one of these and just swap it out everytime i have trouble.

[Orangetona]

I agree with that too, its not like its hard to change or anything.

[roachjuice]

Since my heps I bought from a member here haven't showed up yet (not starting anything he said he would ship them Monday it takes time i know this but couldn't wait) I bought a brand new one from Oreilly. Borg Warner brand. Lifetime warranty. so far no cut out. It even cuts out once I'm warrantying it out.

[roachjuice]

Ok so It started cutting out AGAIN!! WTF!? This is a brand new hep!! Is there a wire that goes from the hep to the lm that I can check? Every pin Is tight. Hep is BRAND NEW. It can't go bad that fast can it? Tach drops going down the road. Lights seem to get a tad brighter. Wideband reads full lean then when it comes back to life it reads real rich the clears up. You can feel the car not have enough timing or something then all of a sudden the car drives normal. Just acting like a bad hep. Connections are good. I can wiggle every wire possible under the hood while it's idling and nothing happens. It's driving me nuts! Just as I think I have this problem figured out it comes back. It makes me wanna rip every engine wire out of the car and rewire the entire car.

[roachjuice]

I'll call the parts store tomorrow and have them order another hep just incase this one is bad.

[roachjuice]

Getting codes 35 and 53. I know about the 35. Just a fan code. 53 anyone have an issue with 53?

[roachjuice]

Synopsis

Description: Internal logic module fault
Power loss light: Off
Limp-in mode: None

Possible Causes

Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the logic module and the power module. Make sure the logic module is getting all of its power feeds and that it is properly grounded (through the ground lug at the fuel rail). Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease and repair any shorts.
Logic module or SMEC failure - Replace the module.


Dielectric grease. Like petroleum jelly? What the hell do I grease?

[black86glhs]

Brandon, most likely it is the LM is bad. Before replacing it, try tweaking the LM terminals so they make better contact.

[bakes]

Try to re solder the lm board sound like a bad solder joint , opening and closing with heat.

[roachjuice]

It will do it weather cold or not. I just drove it to work and it didn't miss a beat. I don't think the lm is bad. It has to be a connection. I have 2 lm s laying around and it's done it to both of them. Thats why I think connection. I'll look at the fuel rail ground then I'll look at the grounds on the lm. Apparently there are multiple. There is one power wire from the pm to the lm. Orange wire on the red connector. I'll start wiggling some wires this afternoon.

[roachjuice]

Dielectric grease on the lm plugs good idea? It's non conductive. What do you mean by tweak the pins?

[T-Bohn]

My coil would short out to the body. The car would stumble and bounce the tack as well. Just a thought.

[roachjuice]

My coil would short out to the body. The car would stumble and bounce the tack as well. Just a thought. how did you fix it? replace coil?

[bakes]

also the power module supplies power to the lm if it starts to flake it can do strange stuff.

[Force Fed Mopar]

The switchable LM I had in the GLHS would throw a code 53 when running in the #2 cal position. Never gave me a problem. I did have problems w/ the PM plugs, would cause a no start or a quit running condition. It would start and run for a random amount of time, then die and not start. Thought it was the LM plugs at first, then found out it was at the PM.

I would suspect the coil also, especially if heat makes it worse.

---------- Post added at 01:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:55 PM ----------


Dielectric grease on the lm plugs good idea? It's non conductive. What do you mean by tweak the pins?

Means bend the little tabs in the in the plug to grip the pins tighter.

[roachjuice]

I'll try bending the little tabs. I get off in about 15min. I'll see if it cuts out. I haven't touched it since last night.

[black86glhs]

-------- Post added at 01:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:55 PM ----------



Means bend the little tabs in the in the plug to grip the pins tighter.You can also squeeze the PM connector terminals(since they are round) to make better contact. Just don't squeeze them too much....lol.

[roachjuice]

Found another loose pin on the lm. Map ground or signal. Anyway. No cut out again. Grrrrr.

[cordes]

Another thing to watch out for with the HEP is the connectors on the harness side. I've read of multiple guys having problems that seemed HEP related. Only when they realized that the connectors on the harness side had an intermittent internal failure were they able to solve the problem. I've read posts from one person who just eliminated the connectors and directly soldered the wires together with the theory being that the HEPs last a long time and hopefully it will cutout slowly allowing a new one to be spliced in before actual death.

[roachjuice]

To anyone cutting the harness I highly suggest getting a volt meter and see which wire goes where. I had to figure that out the hard way. I went back to connectors since I have a new hep.