Mike M
06-04-2011, 12:14 PM
Hey everyone. I never intended on putting up a build log but I am told all the cool kids do it, which means I am SO in. The last time most anyone on here would remember the car was from SDAC 19, looked pretty hot and ran 12.7@110MPH. Didn't do much of anything the previous year except the car started to smoke at the end of the year.
This is my rebuilding year, fix any nitpicking issues I've had, cure my smoking issue and generally clean it up. The main focus will be fixing the smoking issue, because in combination with that and a co-worker of mine building a 410CI Fox Mustang... my drive to make this car faster got a bit bigger, nothing "wild" but just trying to make the ol' 2.5 8valve spit out some good horsies.
Here is the car as she currently sits:
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/7959/lsr001.jpg
Hack, grind, zoom, bang. Started on this months ago and took ages to complete.
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/6817/lsr002.jpg
This is a while back, the start of my parts collection. Still waiting on more.
http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/3751/lsr003.jpg
This is one of my nitpick issues which snowballed a bit. My MC was a bit leaky (paint peeling on booster). So I bought a new one. Then I decided to get rid of my disc/drum valve as I've done my disc swap many many moons ago. Decided to go to an adjustable valve with a F/R split and this is what happened. Bled the system yesterday, bled out easily and pedal feels great so far.
http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/8605/lsr004.jpg
More.
http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/5876/lsr005.jpg
Here is the intake in its completion.
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/8679/lsr006.jpg
58mm TB on the 3.8V6 elbow. I didn't extend mine out like some did, I designed it so I would have cleared the head and cam button, but didn't take into account the fuel rail. Which prompted the fuel rail modification (which is a good idea anyway) - removed the inner tube and tapped/plugged the ends.
http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/4450/lsr007.jpg
Backside of the intake. I love nipples. And uh, sitting behind the intake is a very nice Todd Nelson G-head.
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/1631/lsr008.jpg
And sitting over on my other bench (a Datsun 510), the upgrade to my smoking S70 turbo. To4e 50trim, 63ar stage 2. The TU manifold is merely notched to fit larger locking nuts. Thats smart.
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/6360/lsr009.jpg
And here is pretty much where I finished off at 1:45am last night.
http://img862.imageshack.us/img862/1622/lsr010.jpg
The list of things to do is getting very short, but I'm having a few issues.
Need to ensure my turbo is clocked correctly, the compressor housing doesn't matter as much because I have an abundance of clearance with the TU manifold, but my center section to turbine housing is where I need to make sure (I'd rather get it bang on out of the car than trying to do it on the car or pull the head back off. SO. I think I'm supposed to have the flat part of the oil inlet flange at a 90 degree angle to the turbine housing flange (to manifold) - does that sound right to anyone? I'll keep looking anyway, too tired to look last night. I even took pics of my S70 before taking it apart but I took them at stupid angles and its hard to see exactly.
ALSO, I know I wasn't using a torque wrench but I've installed many a cam without having issues. I have a new TU R2 cam going in to my fresh clean cylinder head. When I tightened it down it would not budge, I backed my bolts off and it would turn, but I felt the point where I backed them off to was too loose (as stated I've ballparked many a cam torquings). I will remove it and inspect the bearing surfaces, probably install the cam sans rockers and ensure it spins on its own freely (ie, not bent). And I guess I'll go get my torque wrenches from work. I guess I know what to do but just curious if anyone else had similar problems.
Well thanks for looking anyone, enjoy :)
This is my rebuilding year, fix any nitpicking issues I've had, cure my smoking issue and generally clean it up. The main focus will be fixing the smoking issue, because in combination with that and a co-worker of mine building a 410CI Fox Mustang... my drive to make this car faster got a bit bigger, nothing "wild" but just trying to make the ol' 2.5 8valve spit out some good horsies.
Here is the car as she currently sits:
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/7959/lsr001.jpg
Hack, grind, zoom, bang. Started on this months ago and took ages to complete.
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/6817/lsr002.jpg
This is a while back, the start of my parts collection. Still waiting on more.
http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/3751/lsr003.jpg
This is one of my nitpick issues which snowballed a bit. My MC was a bit leaky (paint peeling on booster). So I bought a new one. Then I decided to get rid of my disc/drum valve as I've done my disc swap many many moons ago. Decided to go to an adjustable valve with a F/R split and this is what happened. Bled the system yesterday, bled out easily and pedal feels great so far.
http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/8605/lsr004.jpg
More.
http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/5876/lsr005.jpg
Here is the intake in its completion.
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/8679/lsr006.jpg
58mm TB on the 3.8V6 elbow. I didn't extend mine out like some did, I designed it so I would have cleared the head and cam button, but didn't take into account the fuel rail. Which prompted the fuel rail modification (which is a good idea anyway) - removed the inner tube and tapped/plugged the ends.
http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/4450/lsr007.jpg
Backside of the intake. I love nipples. And uh, sitting behind the intake is a very nice Todd Nelson G-head.
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/1631/lsr008.jpg
And sitting over on my other bench (a Datsun 510), the upgrade to my smoking S70 turbo. To4e 50trim, 63ar stage 2. The TU manifold is merely notched to fit larger locking nuts. Thats smart.
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/6360/lsr009.jpg
And here is pretty much where I finished off at 1:45am last night.
http://img862.imageshack.us/img862/1622/lsr010.jpg
The list of things to do is getting very short, but I'm having a few issues.
Need to ensure my turbo is clocked correctly, the compressor housing doesn't matter as much because I have an abundance of clearance with the TU manifold, but my center section to turbine housing is where I need to make sure (I'd rather get it bang on out of the car than trying to do it on the car or pull the head back off. SO. I think I'm supposed to have the flat part of the oil inlet flange at a 90 degree angle to the turbine housing flange (to manifold) - does that sound right to anyone? I'll keep looking anyway, too tired to look last night. I even took pics of my S70 before taking it apart but I took them at stupid angles and its hard to see exactly.
ALSO, I know I wasn't using a torque wrench but I've installed many a cam without having issues. I have a new TU R2 cam going in to my fresh clean cylinder head. When I tightened it down it would not budge, I backed my bolts off and it would turn, but I felt the point where I backed them off to was too loose (as stated I've ballparked many a cam torquings). I will remove it and inspect the bearing surfaces, probably install the cam sans rockers and ensure it spins on its own freely (ie, not bent). And I guess I'll go get my torque wrenches from work. I guess I know what to do but just curious if anyone else had similar problems.
Well thanks for looking anyone, enjoy :)