Need help with Cummins 4B!

[3Bar_Mopar]

I did the headgasket on this engine and I'm unable to get it to start. I'm afraid I have fuel in the oil now. The wiring is screwed and we've been using a screwdriver to jump the starter. The engine turned over but doesn't "catch"...now the starter won't turn the engine. I was able to spin the engine by the fan a little, so I know it's not locked up. The starter tested good also.

I know I have to bleed the air from the fuel system and I've done exactly what's outlined in the service manual. I don't think I'm getting fuel to the injectors. I cracked the fittings on them and cranked the engine...no fuel seeped past the fittings. I just don't know what else to do. Any help is appreciated!

[bakes]

You getting voltage to the fuel shut off solenoid.

[3Bar_Mopar]

You getting voltage to the fuel shut off solenoid.

Where is the fuel shut off solenoid? There's a wire that goes under the fuel pump and disappears between the pump and the block. This wire has always been wedged into the battery terminal at the battery and then the starter jumped. This is all in a CASE skidloader and the wiring was hacked pretty bad.....none of the gauges work. When I touch that wire to the battery terminal, something "clicks" back near the fuel pump....I assume that's the fuel shutoff solenoid? I read somewhere that sometimes the solenoid can get reversed and when power is put to it, it will actually shut off the fuel instead of allowing it to flow...does that sound right?


Also....I overfilled the oil slightly and now it's seems way over-full and the oil is slightly lighter colored.... The engine has not ran since the headgasket was changed...I followed the recommended torque specs and used a brand new gasket set, bolts and head gasket....I don't understand how fuel or anything could be getting to the oil unless I'm filling the cylinders...I'm not a newb and I have built engines before...I know what I'm doing and I have no idea what the problem is...

[shackwrrr]

Be careful of cracking the injector lines. If they squirt and you are nearby it can come out with enough pressure to peirce the skin. Then they have to peel your skin off and degrease the inside.

["Top Fuel" Bender]

is there a primer on the fuel pump like the 6bt?
your supposed to pump that up, crack the lines loose , repeat , then crank over the engine while cracking the lines open till she's running/smoothly

[3Bar_Mopar]

is there a primer on the fuel pump like the 6bt?
your supposed to pump that up, crack the lines loose , repeat , then crank over the engine while cracking the lines open till she's running/smoothly


Yeah...there's a lift pump....I've been cracking lines and pumping that and it seems like there's no foam or air in the lines there.

[mech1nxh]

Apologies 3Bar, late to the party...
May I impose for a perspective pic of the eng left side ... I.E., inj pump, fuel cut solenoid, transfer pump?

THX!

4BT/6BT share a lot of fuel supply configs. A pic would help with an 'intelligent' web diag post.

THX AGAIN!

[3Bar_Mopar]

Apologies 3Bar, late to the party...
May I impose for a perspective pic of the eng left side ... I.E., inj pump, fuel cut solenoid, transfer pump?

THX!

4BT/6BT share a lot of fuel supply configs. A pic would help with an 'intelligent' web diag post.

THX AGAIN!

I'm no longer working in it...I think my boss decided to get an actual diesel mechanic to look at it. My bosses original solution was "fill the fuel filter with diesel...it bleeds itself."

[440dart]

If you dont have the shutoff switch hooked up to posative you wont get anyfuel to the injectors, thats how they shut it off, diesels control rpms and power by fuel not like a throttlebody or carb like on a gasser where the ignition is killed. There should be on single wire going to the pump hook it up to a power source if you hear it click you should be good to go i would recomend hooking it up to a toggle switch in the cab. Does it have a p-pump or ve-pump, p-pump will have the injector lines on the top all in a row running parralel with the engine if its a ve-pump the will be on the back of the pump faceing the back of the engine.


If you need any help give me a call 406-890-1143 justin

[3Bar_Mopar]

If you dont have the shutoff switch hooked up to posative you wont get anyfuel to the injectors, thats how they shut it off, diesels control rpms and power by fuel not like a throttlebody or carb like on a gasser where the ignition is killed. There should be on single wire going to the pump hook it up to a power source if you hear it click you should be good to go i would recomend hooking it up to a toggle switch in the cab. Does it have a p-pump or ve-pump, p-pump will have the injector lines on the top all in a row running parralel with the engine if its a ve-pump the will be on the back of the pump faceing the back of the engine.


If you need any help give me a call 406-890-1143 justin

From what you said, it's the VE-pump. It had a single wire running from the pump....we had to wedge it into the positive terminal before we could start it and it did make a "click" noise when power was applied to the wire. Like I said before though...I'm no longer working on it. My boss decided to be a giant douche and screw me out of some money for something I did for him a few weeks ago...then he blamed me for stealing a small POS amplifier that they misplaced in the shop...when one of the guys found it, my boss said I put it there after I had stolen it because I was afraid I was going to get caught. He took my key and started telling everyone I'm a thief... As a result, I no longer work for him and I wish I'd have poured sand in that skid loader.

[Subliminal]

You basically need to crack a little bleeder bolt which is the next item inline after fuel tank, lift pump...then the bleeder screw...then the fuel filter. Crack it open and pump the lift pump primer handle. Then when fuel starts coming out of there you tighten it back up and then crack all the injectors a hair and then turn it over until fuel starts squirting out of the cracked injector lines. then you close them...usually you can get it started then, and then crack and bleed a bit and tighten then all up and you're rosy.

But yeah, you need power to the fss, too.

---------- Post added at 11:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:39 AM ----------

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/pics/data/544/32131Up_Close_Banjo.jpg

Bleeder...