Directconnection's '90 VNT CP to T-III project

[Directconnection]

After quite some time of pondering the thought of starting a project log, I have decided to make a go of it. The car of choice will be my 'ole faithful 1990 VNT Shadow (competition package model) Some old timers in the TM community *may* remember when I took her off the road in '06 to begin the start of a complete engine and suspension transformation. I had converted the front end over to the '91+ style cast control arms/knuckles (for better roll center) along with all PolyBushings.com hardware. New Spicer balljoints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings, etc... Even got a rare limited production Quickor 1-1/4" end link style swaybar for the cast control arms before they went belly-up. Compression and rebound is controlled by Koni adjustable struts/shocks with the good Eibach springs for the Shadow application (#2804 if I recall) Rock Auto supplied all new isolators and bump stops, along with the rubber for the rack.

As she sits as of 5-14-11.... the azz-end is totally dismantled (but the front has been assembled from back in '07 before divorce made me take a hiatus until now) A freshly glass beaded and painted rear axle with solid swaybar from a '90 VNT Daytona will be going in place of the original hollow axle. For reference: the G-body axle has 5/8" more track :thumb: Poly oval bushings, CS adjustable track bar, new tank, 255L HP pump, new fuel and brake lines going in, Konis/Eibachs, and right now.... newly replaced rear sub-frame due to an odd rust issue only in that one area (common place for rust on these cars btw..)

Brakes are R/T 11" with new Mopar rotors (thanks Cliff Ramsdell) and newly rebuilt calipers F+R with Porterfield pads up front (thanks to Menegon's suggestion) and SS braided lines (don't have these yet)

Tranny will be a freshly rebuilt 568 with Quaife that I have on the shelf, but due to budget limitations, I'll use a stock *good* condition 568 to get me through 'till then. 4-puck RP disc with stock T-III Sachs PP.

Now for the good stuff: The engine *was* supposed to be a pretty stout 2.5 8V G-headed combo with my ported and flowtested 2-piece intake and ABM header mated to a 50-trim to tackle the huff duties. But like life.... plans change..... So, I am (or gonna try like hell!) to build the car I've always wanted (ok, a T-III '89 CSX is my dream...)

The engine I have been gathering parts for was intended to drop into my '92 IROC R/T, but seeing the azz end of my Shadow stuck in the garage for the past 5+ years turns my stomach, and freeing up some space so I could work on my daily driver when need be... is a major plus (another is to "finish what ya started")

So, it only made sense for me to abort project 8v 2.5 and go with one of the T-III drivetrains I currently have, and go from there.

So here's the motor's layout: 2.2 T-III with +.020 Wiseco's, Brian Crower rods, ARP head and main studs, Cometic HG, my own custom adjustable cam gears that I made and posted a "how to" thread here on TM about 6 months ago, custom re-ground cams, Spearco 1080, Precision billet 6262 w/.63 a/r (thanx to Brent and Terry giving me the green light on this), TU 3" SW w/3" downpipe going into an older 3" JRB with 3" Ultraflow and my own "stealth" cat (cat delete thanx to my bud Norm Long :eyebrows:) I am using a stock '89 T-II forged crank which was ground -.010/-.010 and being that I work in a performance engine building shop, I did all the machine work myself (yeah, patting myself on the back again)

Unfortunately, I have no real pictures of the "famous":D Shadow in all her past glory. I do have one vid doing a long 2nd gear burnout, pix of it's azz end sticking out of my garage, and others when I had the top end out as I was rebuilding/porting the head in '98.

I'll post this one for now, which I took in '07 after installing the complete new front end before losing interest. I will add, it looks a tad better in the pic than it does now, especially with 5 years worth of garage dust all over everything.

Tonight, I drilled out all the spot welds on that rear subframe and yanked it outta there! Thanks goes out to Viperbox (hope I got his username correct) for a near mint one out of an '88 Shelby Z as it's an exact fit with a wee-bit 'o hammering/shaping to make it fit. The plans are to get the frame replaced and fixed, then goes in all the brake/fuel lines, tank, then rear axle assembly, etc... *THEN* it's engine time.... (FWIW: the shortblock and many misc. other engine parts are done and waiting on assembly, including some portwork:eyebrows:)


Hopefully, now that I threw myself out there into intraweb-land... I have committed to finishing this, otherwise I FAIL.

[86Shelby]

I can't wait to see something done with the car Steve! Even if it doesn't hit the road soon you're making progress. Now how about some pics of said progress. ;)

[135sohc]

Hell yeah! Between that picture in your signature forever and reading little tidbits here and there I wanted to see this one happen. :nod:

[Directconnection]

I can't wait to see something done with the car Steve! Even if it doesn't hit the road soon you're making progress. Now how about some pics of said progress. ;)

It's something I've been wanting to do to the car for many years now, so I too... cannot wait! (but it will be quite some time)

I've posted some pix here and there on TM, but I'll gather up some new ones real soon, and in the coming days, along with some stories on the *TOTAL* rebuilding of the donor motor that I bought that was "supposedly rebuilt with 0 miles" when I got it. (ie: fiasco on the previous owner's part)

Here's one picture from last fall of the shortblock after I re-machined everything and fitted with Wiseco's, and another of the 6262 going on it. At the time of the pic, I had stock rods I thoroughly went through and re-sized, balanced, bored/honed new pin bushings, magnafluxed, shotpeened twice, etc... (pix of said stock rods included) I later yanked out the stockers and tossed in the BC H-beams which I give 2 thumbs up on my quality inspection :thumb: While I'm at it.... here's a picture of the cam gears I made, too.... and a link to the "DIY How-To" thread.

[Directconnection]

Hell yeah! Between that picture in your signature forever and reading little tidbits here and there I wanted to see this one happen. :nod:

Thanx man! Here's the "DIY Adjustable T-III Cam Gears" thread I mentioned in my previous post: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?54673-Fabrication-How-To-T-III-adjustable-cam-gears&highlight=diy+how+to+T-III+adjustable+cam+gears

[shackwrrr]

At least you can make it a roller with those axle brackets.

[BadAssPerformance]

Subscribed :thumb:

[glhs875]

Me likey!!!

[Pat]

Glad you're going this route instead of the Daytona. The T-III P body combo is an absolute blast.

[Directconnection]

Here's a shot of the engine bay after the engine was pulled (before and after), and here's a shot of the passenger suspension after everything was assembled (minus the Quickor swaybar and SS flex lines)

Pictures from here on out will most likely be current progress shots.... and if I don't... give me a kick in the azz!:nod:

[Shadow]

Nice to see you finally getting back to it, sounds like you have most of the parts worked out. Looking forward to seeing your progress!

[Directconnection]

At least you can make it a roller with those axle brackets.

The brackets will come in handy... thanx! But I will have it on dollies and 6x8" blocks of wood when I pull it out of the garage to sandblast and weld back in the new crossmember frame hopefully within 2 weeks, as it's been nothing but rain up here in Maine for the past 2 months.



Me likey!!!

Thanx man! (and to the others that likey too)


Glad you're going this route instead of the Daytona. The T-III P body combo is an absolute blast.

I still have plans for the Daytona... but you know my track record, that'll be waaay down the road. After this car comes my '67 Barracuda.

This project log will hopefully be chock full of success stories, and unfortunately... some embarrassing *FAILS* as I learn many things along the way. I'll admit, there are a few elementary things I have little experience with, so when I post up T-III power steering pump mounting issues, where does this serpentine idler mount to, or how did you guys route this.... take it easy on me if I have a "Brain-Fart" :)

[phase827]

So would you be willing sell your 2 piece intake?

[Directconnection]

So would you be willing sell your 2 piece intake?

Sorry Man, but I already did last summer. That helped pay for the 6262.

[5DIGITS]

Steve,

Nice detail.. you have a fair amount of time and effort into this and it looks great.
I am looking forward to seeing this car !!

[phase827]

its more of a want than a need so its a goodthing you dont have it anymore. good luck on the build hope some of my parts make it onto it.

[Directconnection]

Steve,

Nice detail.. you have a fair amount of time and effort into this and it looks great.
I am looking forward to seeing this car !!

Hopefully someday you will, and in person. Afterall, you helped play an important part in it's previous VNT state over the years :thumb:


its more of a want than a need so its a goodthing you dont have it anymore. good luck on the build hope some of my parts make it onto it.

Yes, your parts will make it's way onto this motor, for sure! (and possibly a few others once I raise more $ :eyebrows:)

[cordes]

Great to see this post Steve. I can't wait for more updates.

[Juggy]

nice! car looks real clean. cant wait to see the outcome. this thing is going to fly~

[rx2mazda]

Subscribed!

[iTurbo]

Wow man that underhood is extra virgin; nice! Can't wait to see more of it Steve. Reading others project logs really makes me wish I had more time to work on my own but having two jobs right now plus being on-call is total non starter at the moment.

[Directconnection]

Wow man that underhood is extra virgin; nice! Can't wait to see more of it Steve. Reading others project logs really makes me wish I had more time to work on my own but having two jobs right now plus being on-call is total non starter at the moment.

Hey Jeremy.... Thanx for the kind words. Being a homeowner, and having a life outside of these TMs, I find it difficult for me to find the time as well.... especially when I find myself here and addicted to this forum! hehehe

I worked on the car last night. Had to yard out all the stock leftover suspension parts I had stashed underneath the car so I can roll it out of the garage as soon as we have a nice dry day this week. Last Sunday, I drilled out all the spotwelds and popped out the old subframe (night before had to pull out all the rear interior in preparation of drilling and welding) Last night, I also cleaned up the garage, jacked up/propped up the arse end higher, swapped front wheels onto it, and tonight, I'll be hammering/test fitting the new subframe section and make it ready to weld in. I took pix in succession, but will post them all in one shot when done.

If *I* can replace a rotted frame section, then there's no reason anyone else here can't (I see too many decent cars scrapped as people must be afraid of body/sheet metal work here :nod:) I'm doing it the right way, but with minimal tools and equipment... and hopefully many others here will say to themselves: "man.... I can do that!"

BTW: that NPR you bought from me years back helped pay for the Spearco going in this thing. There are a LOT of people that have had a hand in this project, whether they know it, or not.

[Shadow]

Sounds like your making some progress. Soooo, is she gonna make SDAC this year! :P

[Directconnection]

Sounds like your making some progress. Soooo, is she gonna make SDAC this year! :P

As for being ready for SDAC: I wish.....

I'm not as quick and experienced as some of you guys that are on your 12th "project"

At my rate, it will hopefully be done by late August, to early September with a few bugs probably needing to be worked out, as well.

I went out there again tonight and hammered/test fit the replacement rail into shape. It was from an '88 car, and already tweaked a bit from removal, so making it fit snugly was kind of a chore as I was laying on my back doing this.... off and on about 100 times until finished. Now I just wait for some dry weather to re-sandblast a few areas, treat with $30 a pop rattle can 3M Weld Thru primer, then cut out three 1" diameter spots at the spare tire well, weld in the frame, paint and then done with that.... Weather looks like it's going to be rainy up here for several days straight..... this "spring" weather is horrbile. Trees still look bare here...

[Shadow]

I was just horsing around with you Steve, but it must feel pretty Great just to get back on it! I may have my own issues with having the Charger ready for SDAC, so just because some of us have put a few cars together doesn't gaurantee getting things finished on schedule!

[rx2mazda]

I was just horsing around with you Steve, but it must feel pretty Great just to get back on it! I may have my own issues with having the Charger ready for SDAC, so just because some of us have put a few cars together doesn't gaurantee getting things finished on schedule!

Your car better be at SDAC or it's EPIC FAIL for you! :)

[Reeves]

Glad to see you have a project log! Subscribed and looking forward to the progress!


, Precision billet 6262 w/.63 a/r (thanx to Brent and Terry giving me the green light on this)

Good choice :thumb:

[Directconnection]

I was just horsing around with you Steve, but it must feel pretty Great just to get back on it! I may have my own issues with having the Charger ready for SDAC, so just because some of us have put a few cars together doesn't gaurantee getting things finished on schedule!

Yes, it does feel great... so far! I'm rather anxious to get back to assembling the entire motor now that I have my reground cams... maybe I'll get the longblock together in a few weeks.


Your car better be at SDAC or it's EPIC FAIL for you! :)

If it comes together this year, then next year is a must! I think I overheard Barry saying the next SDAC will be in NH or Maine? hehehe (I'd end up being like the only attendee if that was to happen)


Glad to see you have a project log! Subscribed and looking forward to the progress!

Good choice :thumb:

Another reason for the log is to keep me on my toes.... if I start slacking, people's urgent update requests may give me that extra motivational kick in the arse.

As for the good choice, I forgot to mention your name in the mix of the 6262 as you may remember me PMing you last summer about your opinion as well. I just hope this combo (SC6262 + T-III + P-body) eventually turns out to be a real performer in similarity to your car, and Pat's Shadow (with obvious lot's of blood, sweat, tears... and some luck)

[86Shelby]

Another reason for the log is to keep me on my toes.... if I start slacking, people's urgent update requests may give me that extra motivational kick in the arse.

Any progress in the last 20 minutes? /Reeves & JT :)

[Reeves]

Any progress in the last 20 minutes? /Reeves & JT :)

How about now?

[rx2mazda]

Now???

[Directconnection]

Due to more rain... I have some time to sit down and type a "continuation" story (a Part-II if you will) on my trials and tribulations of the T-III engine I am currently building.

As stated earlier, I picked up a complete, but partially dis-assembled '91 Spirit R/T with a "completely rebuilt" engine. The gameplan *was* to check out the motor to make sure the previous owner did a decent job (and that it wasn't a "spray can rebuild tm") and then do a switcheroo into the '92 IROC R/T I have. But, as I also mentioned in my 1st post, things change, and I figured I REALLY should finish what I started and get that Shadow out of my garage finally :D

So here we go: The complete rolling R/T Chassis was sold for $450, and the rebuilt turbo was sold for $300 leaving me just $250 invested into the motor/trans (and sbec and harness) Again, the motor had 0-miles on it after it had the intermediate shaft/oil pump failure.

{sit back and enjoy...}

Upon 1st inspection after teardown (besides everything being freakin' loose!) was that the freshly honed bores were quite worn, and the original forged Mahle pistons were *knurled* (gasp!) I had .005 -.006" clearance.... (tried sourcing a nice used +.020 set, or some good stockers to have the skirts coated, but decided to spring for new Wiseco's after selling some stuff) The rods: I can tell that one was replaced, and that they were re-sized, but with stock bolts. So.... I used my best set of T-II rods, which I VERY meticulously magnafluxed, balanced and resized. See link: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?50887-FS-Cat-s-Meow-of-T-III-rods&highlight=cats+meow+of+t-iii+rods Now, comes the crank: it was turned -.020 on the rods, and -.010 on the mains. The grind was ok, but kinda all over the spec range, and when magnafluxing it, I saw a small "heat check" as we call it in the suspect rod journal. Knowing my intentions for this motor, I decided to pass on it for quality reasons giving it a B+ when in fact, I want an A+ And luck would have it, a 1989 GTC T-II convertible came into my friend's junkyard a week later. Rob, local Mopar freak was pulling the 555 and top end (Rob, you bastage.. beat me to it...) I snagged the shortblock since all that was left was just 2 mounts holding it into the engine bay after Rob and I were done pulling the top end. The bearings were on copper, but no damage, and the rods and crank magged perfectly (this is where the rods came from) Had her turned -.010/-.010 but the front and rear main seal surfaces have some deep wear, so I have my fingers crossed on this one (one of the engine assemblers has a few tricks to help) Front seal housing: cracked and painted right over the silicone hiding the actual crack. Used a stock CB 8v housing and machined the clearance needed for the wider T-III belt. Intermediate shaft seal housing: had some wear, so indicated it onto the lathe and re-faced the surface better than new, and perfectly square. (fwiw: it's been a year, but I believe they have recessed counterbores in it for the T-III's wider int. sprocket clearance) Oil pan, tossed that stove up piece and found a decent '89 CB 2.2 pan to replace it with. Cut out the sound deadener baffles while at it. Had the block decked, and it took frikkin' .008" to clean up as there were a few pits (.004" of that .008" was a warped deck) I used ARP main and headstuds, so I torque plate honed the Wisecos and cut the main caps and re-honed the mainline to spec. Now on to the head: half of the lifters were rusted-stuck in the collapsed position, and most of the plastic lash cap retainers were crumbling apart/missing. Both cams were pitted/flaked (one rather heavily) and a few of the rockers were really suspect with some pins worked out on one side to almost an 1/8th inch (one was still centered, but on one end, the pin wobbled around about .010 as the pressed fit hole was actually ovaled out waiting to fail) I rejected all rockers, not knowing if the PO pressed them out to "rebuild" (not a good idea as you lose a lot of your press when re-installing them afterwards... I'll sacrafice them to make/sell solid lash adjusters for cam centerlining in the future) I waited 1 year for my cams, and they finally arrived 3 weeks ago! (should have just gone to LW/FWD vs. the wait) The valves: the dumbazz ground the snot out of them making them as my c0cky SB Chevy loving owner/boss called them: "Pizza Cutters!" And to make matters worse.... rendering them useless to me: they tumbled them stoving up the valve stems with slight burrs. Again: I found myself sourcing parts from my spare T-III and/or parts stash. Locks: one of the exhaust locks was not seated properly, fubarring it up badly (would have probably lost a valve if run long) Valve seals: they used only 1/2 set of new seals, while the others were 120k originals.... Guides: exhaust guides were wasted (FWDP for seals and guides) The head's deck: this needed about .008" as well, to clean as it was warped in an odd manner and the PO's machine shop NEVER decked it in the 1st place! (cams do turn nice and easy, so the cam tunnels are ok, thank gawd) The same machine shop also NEVER did a valve job on the head, as the seats had obvious pitting. Curt, our head expert at the shop was able to fix it w/out sinking the valves and I was lucky there... I don't use the Berco (like a Serdi) much at all... so I trusted him lots more on that one. Lastly.... that same PO's shop took a damn whiz-wheel or 5" disc sander to the head's intake and exhaust manifold surfaces which kinda rounded things off not giving a decent flat surface. So, on to the milling machine and with a lot of ghetto setups, was I able to totally machine everything perfectly flat and smooth. And as you can guess, they did the same thing to the intake and exhaust manifolds! I ended up replacing the exhaust manifold because it was pitted badly via rust, and I had a better donor. I still re-surfaced those (intake and exhaust manifolds) as well as the TB mounting surface (same issue) Let's see, what else? The serpentine crank pulley was not centered over the hub before they forced it on and torqued down, making the centering hole now egg shaped (back to the donor T-III motor again, which is looking like I should have rebuilt that one!)

You know.... after all the BS, I left nothing at chance, so I even magnafluxed the damn valve spring retainers! (sometimes, those can actually fail in uber high end motors with excessive age/usage)

Every $ going into this motor was sourced from selling/liquidating most of my 8v components and HP goodies. So, even though this has become a very costly endeavor, I have been extremely crafty in conjuring up the needed funds! (almost in a GRM 2011 Challenge fashion that even Pat would give me a big :thumb:)

I'll try and post some pix tomorrow night of some other work I've put into the engine that hasn't been posted yet....

[Directconnection]

Project Update:

The old frame had the spot welds drilled out last weekend, and the surrounding areas ground burr-free. Following night, I hammered/shaped the new replacement frame rail into shape and also primered it (3M "Weld Thru II")

Today, I crossed my fingers that my ghetto arse-carting setup would work w/out failure or any scare tactics involved. Old "U-Haul" dollies with 6x8 blocks of wood supporting the rear jacking points, and I was easily able to move the car around my driveway. I live in a tight neighborhood with nice houses (well... except for the one to the right side of the car pic) and they probably weren't too excited about my redneck antics :eyebrows:

I really wanted to be more detailed with pix, but when your beeotching and swearing with sandblast media in your ears and eyes... kinda takes the fun out of it.

So, right now... I don't have any "after" pix, but she's all sandblasted clean and primered. I did find a few pin-holes in the spare tire well area that I will also attempt to conquer before welding in the replacement frame section.

So at this point, here's what I used to get the job done to the stopping point I am currently at: One #3 centerdrill, and two 3/8" drills (I ground these two drills to be spotweld cutters) I used the centerdrill to drill a small pilot hole for the pilot I ground onto the spotweld cutter drills I made, which are essentially flat bottomed drills with a pilot. I used 2 cans of 3M Weld-Thru II primer, which costs $30 a can! One can was for the nooks and crannies of the replacement used frame I glass beaded at work, the 2nd can was for the underside areas of the car I did today. Two 50lb bags of Black Beauty sandblast media at $15 each. The sandblaster I used was one of those cheapy Craftsman portable spot section type sandblasters. Basic plastic tank that holds about 25lbs of media, and a blasting nozzle that hooks up to the tank, and also an air source. Probably only costs $100 tops at Sears. I laid an old tarp down under the car to catch most of the sand, in which it did... probably about 85% of it! One "real" respirator (not a dusk mask) a pair of goggles, and a face shield. Ear plugs (to keep the media from embedded inside your ear canal... been there, done that in the past) and one of those white plastic/cloth painter's slip on suits. Dat be it! Git 'R Dun!


Man, what a freakin' mess I made, but everything cleaned up nicely with a little bit of patience in the end.

Want to point out: in the underside picture, you'll notice that I sandblasted a few key areas at one time. That was in '07... and where I left off (divorce) and things started to slightly rust from sitting exposed in my garage. So, today... I went back over everything, and then some. If I saw a slight irregularity, I hit it to see if rust was starting underneath. So, it's about 50% hit under there as of now.... and all of those areas totally primered with that kick-azz 3M product meant for secluded areas to also be welded.

I'll most likely weld in the frame this coming weekend and then I can finally put the suspension and brake/fuel lines in.

ps: don't judge her on the old POS pumpers and heavy scratches/nicks elsewhere:love:

[86Shelby]

Awesome! Looks damn clean under there! I am a bit jealous of that.

[135sohc]

Awesome! Looks damn clean under there! I am a bit jealous of that.

x2 +1,000,000

[shackwrrr]

whats the aluminum chunk for?

[Reeves]

then I can finally put the ...... fuel lines in.


Go big or go home! :thumb:

Looking great!

[Directconnection]

Awesome! Looks damn clean under there! I am a bit jealous of that.


x2 +1,000,000


That's the *before* shot.... but I'll consider myself fortunate! I've stored it many winters to keep it in decent shape. It's a pretty solid car all around with a few spots needing attention.



whats the aluminum chunk for?

Don't laugh... but it's my homemade reference point so I know the replacement frame goes into the correct location. I wanted to make sure the track bar's "hanger" and it's re-inforcement that bolts to that frame wasn't going to be tweaked or pulling hard when it all bolts together. I had a big chunk of aluminum hanging around the garage, so I brought it to work and milled an angle on it so I could measure with some 12" dial calipers.


Go big or go home! :thumb:

Looking great!

I'm tryin'! This coming weekend I am hoping to have some time (and weather) to finish it up. I grabbed a Stratus hood from the JY last weekend for donor steel to patch the few pin holes I found (after cutting them out)

[Directconnection]

Thought I'd snap a picture tonight of what the underside actually looks like so you have an *after* to compare to. Not a frame-off restoration (hence my play on words with the title of the picture) You can see the areas I attacked and then sealed with the weld-thru primer (which is the same color silver as freshly sandblasted steel)

I was downloading this picture to my computer and saw what I thought was a big rust bubble underneath. I was like: "no frikkin' way... I hit everything with a fine tooth comb" So here I was back in the garage with a flashlight.... ahhh.... all it was is the adhesive residue from that pad that goes between the gastank and the unibody.

Oh, and here's a picture of the old frame before it was removed for reference. That's all I gotz 'till this weekend.... well, maybe:eyebrows:

[Reeves]

SDAC-21 or bust!

[Directconnection]

SDAC-21 or bust!

It already be broke! SDAC-22 or I'm Gazer material.

[Reeves]

I'm Gazer material.

Fixed it for you!

[Directconnection]

Fixed it for you!

Hey Bro! You're supposed to be helping me.... not destroying my feelings :nod:


With that said: "Fixed it for you!"


I Go big or go homo! :thumb:

[Reeves]

Hey Bro! You're supposed to be helping me.... not destroying my feelings :nod:


With that said: "Fixed it for you!"

LOLz!

[Directconnection]

Spent some time this weekend cutting and forming my patch repair pieces, and frame section.... only to have my 1st two patches weld like azz.... The patch and the car's steel areas were all sanded down to bare metal (as was the patches, too), but the 110 mig just couldn't lay an even and consistent bead for me. I practiced on the old frame section I pulled out 2 weeks ago, and got a decent weld, but just not so on the car itself w/out it boogering and marbling up on me. I think the patch piece welds ok, it's the actual car's steel that it's not giving me a quality bead on (it's sputtering and spattering erratically)

Might see if I can try a 110 mig with gas vs. this flux core wire.... I'm sure my novice welding skillz ain't helping. Any suggestions? (I might had a friend come over in a few days to do the deed for me)

[86Shelby]

Oh definitely use the regular wire & gas instead of the flux core wire. Much easier to get a nice weld.

[Pat]

Oh definitely use the regular wire & gas instead of the flux core wire. Much easier to get a nice weld.

+1.

And just to add, you may have to play with the settings a bit if you're trying to weld upside down. It's much easier for the puddle to run out when you're trying to weld upside down. IIRC, I had to do everything slower...less heat, less wire speed. Take your scrap piece, and practice welding that upside down to get it right.

[Directconnection]

yeah, I'm going to track down a 110 mig with gas this week....

I tried a bunch of settings, and it made little difference... but I'm sure an experienced welder would have done better than I did. A friend suggested going side to side, which gave me a decent bead, but then I was burning through in some spots...

[Directconnection]

yeah, I'm going to track down a 110 mig with gas this week....

I tried a bunch of settings, and it made little difference... but I'm sure an experienced welder would have done better than I did. A friend suggested going side to side, which gave me a decent bead, but then I was burning through in some spots...

[Directconnection]

Tracked down a better mig this week with gas. I also was fortunate enough to talk a good friend of mine to stop by and help me with his welding skillz.

The frame was fitted nice tight, and welded into place. We still did have an issue with poor welds as my friend is probably too used to his nice 220 Hobart, and being that the car was outside this afternoon, the strong wind was taking away our shielding gas. With that said.... most of the welds were quite blah, but functionality-wise, there's plenty of penetration. I also welded in my other patch pieces, and finished it off with primer for now.

Wish I had a bigger 2-car garage so I'd have room to work vs. moving the compressor around if I needed the welder or shop-vac as it's tight in there.

[440dart]

What are you doing head and intake and exhaust mani wise??? minimum i would put a intake on it design it to make more hp as you will alread destroy the tires with the tourqe these things make

[Directconnection]

What are you doing head and intake and exhaust mani wise??? minimum i would put a intake on it design it to make more hp as you will alread destroy the tires with the tourqe these things make

The head had a basic "bowl" porting job. I left the runners alone as the factory shape seems rather decent. Only reason I'd want to port the runner areas (other than remove casting flash) is to increase the runner volume. And as of last fall when I did the head, I had lesser goals performance wise due to summer's time running out. I'd have to take a junk head and do several experiments with it on my flowbench (was also waiting/banking on getting a certain junk head from a member here..... which never panned out) and that would eat into my time constraint. As it sits now, knowing what general cfm gains are typical of the work I did, I probably picked up a basic 20cfm on the head alone. On the exhaust manifold, again.... nothing extravagant.... but probably another 10cfm and the same thing for the intake manifold. An honest 25-40cfm gain on everything total... who knows, maybe even more... especially if using the Ricer Flowbench (RF-600 model)

Again, the ideal thing to do would be to go with a better intake design and also, a tube header setup. But ya know what I keep hearing in my head? Larry, Jackson, and Rick Diogo have all dynoed 480-500+whp and all three were using stock manifolds and heads with the exception of Rick probably using one of his intakes. (even Pat's making stoopit power on his 50trim.)

If I had known I would have run out of "gung-ho" attitude last summer and fall, and had all winter with my project going dormant, I would have most likely improved the portwork on my cylinder head (and maybe my manifolds, to boot!) I guess it's still not too late....

BTW: I have all my top end parts here at my house right now, and tomorrow, I'll take some good pictures of everything and post it here in this thread.

[Directconnection]

Here's a picture of my finished top end parts 'n pieces.

I just have to check my open/closed pressures to make sure the springs are still in spec, and then assemble everything. Probably this week, or the next...

[Juggy]

nice parts!!!

hey when your elding, you want to make little "C" motions. swinging back in forth....but when mig u can usually just run straight bead without having to move around as much....

[Aries_Turbo]

looks good steve. :)

[Directconnection]

Thanx man. Unfortunately... the pix don't do it any justice as every surface had to be re-machined. And, it's a bee-otch to set up each manifold and head surface on a Bridgeport milling machine dead-square... but possible with a lot of patience and some uber-ghetto setup techniques. Every lifter dis-assembled and thoroughly cleaned as was each rocker.

[cordes]

That looks really nice. I don't think I own a single part which is that clean.

[Directconnection]

Got this back today:

Good friend of mine painted it for me so I wouldn't end up having to rattle can it :nod: I got up early, looked outside, and there it was against the garage door. (I know... funky blue color... the previous home owners painted the trim)

[Directconnection]

Here it be:

[440dart]

they might have made good power but really i would like to see there DP 1:1 is ideal. If someone would do a drive pressure test on a 450+hp car would tell us weather we need to do something with the manifold

[Directconnection]

they might have made good power but really i would like to see there DP 1:1 is ideal. If someone would do a drive pressure test on a 450+hp car would tell us weather we need to do something with the manifold

You mean "PR" as in Pressure Ratio, right? A lot of that has to do with the the turbine side of things moreso than the manifold/header. Larry did actually do a test. I believe he did a before and after possibly with the stocker (or 50trim) and then his SC61 like your's. I forget his PR but it was pretty darn good. (Larry actually had a video of the gauges during a dyno pull where you can actually witness the PR)

Hey, did I forget to respond to your PM from 2 weeks ago?

Project Update: Interior is all back in for the most part. Man, these K series cars just weren't meant to come apart and then re-assemble as panels and trim piece don't fit as tight as they did the 1st time around.

Also, my seam sealer I used, which was supposed to be really good stuff (especially at $23 a tube) ended up lifting and cracking! Luckily I hadn't painted over it yet, but now I am forced to chip it all off and then find an alternative that keeps a bit of pliability over time. This stuff dried real hard, too... I stopped into a high-brow shop that sells/restores only Porsches, Ferrari's, Mercedes, etc... and they told me about Worth's seam sealer and Worth's products.... but I can't buy it over the counter. They also use the same seam sealer that I used, and never had a problem. 3M 08505 "Fast 'n Firm" If it weren't for an issue with the seam sealer NOT sealing the seams, I'd have my axle partially installed by now...

The good news is: I found 3 extra grey shelf panels, 3 extra sets of headlights, and 3 extra front grills in red and one good driver's mirror housing. Yay! My headlights are yellowed, my grill cracked, shelf panel fubared with the 'ole Clarions mounted into it, and a crack on the driver's mirror.... now I can fix that soon enough.

[135sohc]

You need to use a two stage product if you want it to not crack and turn into crap over time. Any single stage (air dry/solvent evaporates) product just wont last.

I use a fusor product (126ez) and an adapter so I didnt have to buy a $150 special caulking gun. Its pricey stuff but it works and if you take the time to mask the seams, put a bead down and then feather it out with an acid brush it looks beautiful and even the little tubes ($15-20) will go a long way.

[Directconnection]

You need to use a two stage product if you want it to not crack and turn into crap over time. Any single stage (air dry/solvent evaporates) product just wont last.

I use a fusor product (126ez) and an adapter so I didnt have to buy a $150 special caulking gun. Its pricey stuff but it works and if you take the time to mask the seams, put a bead down and then feather it out with an acid brush it looks beautiful and even the little tubes ($15-20) will go a long way.

Who makes this and where can you get it? (and how much as I don't know what the adapter is...)

I talked with someone today about this, and they said it had to do with the weld thru primer that was used. It needs to be clean where applied, but he said there's a special product for bare steel, so unsure what my next move is. Sand clean and re-apply.... or sand clean, use normal primer and then apply?

[135sohc]

This is the stuff
http://www.foxruntools.com/factorymatchsealermed17.aspx

I dont remember where I got it from, just compared prices and shopped around.

caulking gun adapter: http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=DSSXSMAPTb&Category_Code=JASS
also got the mixing nozzles from that place.

according to the tube of the fusor stuff I have in front of me. "can be used over any primer"

[Directconnection]

This is the stuff
http://www.foxruntools.com/factorymatchsealermed17.aspx

I dont remember where I got it from, just compared prices and shopped around.

caulking gun adapter: http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=DSSXSMAPTb&Category_Code=JASS
also got the mixing nozzles from that place.

according to the tube of the fusor stuff I have in front of me. "can be used over any primer"

Is this an actual seam sealer or an adhesive? Guy at work says that Fusor stuff is criminal. They sometimes use it to bond replacement 1/4 panels it's that strong! But I am looking for pliability and something that doesn't shrink and crack like this did.

[Pat]

Steve..I've used seam sealer that I picked up off the shelf at Napa and have had no issues at all with it.

[Directconnection]

Steve..I've used seam sealer that I picked up off the shelf at Napa and have had no issues at all with it.

CRAPA brand seam sealer?

BTW: I replaced my driver's side mirror today (damn... gotta tear apart almost the entire door to do so)
and installed the visors and retainers (did the headliner years ago, just never got around to the finishing touches along with installing the entire rear interior that is now also back in)

[135sohc]

Is this an actual seam sealer or an adhesive? Guy at work says that Fusor stuff is criminal. They sometimes use it to bond replacement 1/4 panels it's that strong! But I am looking for pliability and something that doesn't shrink and crack like this did.

Seam sealer. its plenty flexible.
31815

[rx2mazda]

Steve..I've used seam sealer that I picked up off the shelf at Napa and have had no issues at all with it.

Sometimes you just gotta KISS. I've heard of people having great success using liquid nails as a seam sealer too.

[Aries_Turbo]

i used the eastwood seam sealer with success.

brian

[Pat]

CRAPA brand seam sealer?

BTW: I replaced my driver's side mirror today (damn... gotta tear apart almost the entire door to do so)
and installed the visors and retainers (did the headliner years ago, just never got around to the finishing touches along with installing the entire rear interior that is now also back in)

I'll take a look to see if I still have the latest tube, but it's whatever they had on the shelf. Nothing fancy. I've used it to reseal leaky cowls and on floor board repairs.

[135sohc]

Sometimes you just gotta KISS. I've heard of people having great success using liquid nails as a seam sealer too.

I've done that :eyebrows: works great but takes forever to dry..

[Directconnection]

Still doing work to the car... albeit: it's the "gravy" work right now.

I replaced the wasted hatch struts with some good used ones I snatched years ago from my friend's JY, and also replaced the cracked front grill with another spare of the same color I forgot I even had! 10-12 years ago, I would grab whatever '89+ grills I could find that were NOT broken or cracked, as 99% always seem to be that way. I knew I had a green one, but forgot I also had a few red ones, to boot!

Funny story on how my grill got smacked up: About the year 2000, I was pumping gas in my town behind a '90 Nissan 4x4 beater at the pump in front of me. Suddenly, I see the guy's *reverse* lights go on and at this point, I'm hoping it's just that his wiring was fawked. Nope! Wham! right into my grill... and putting a small tweak into the inside corner of my fender. What happened was.... he was in his truck with another woman, when his live-in girlfriend is driving by and sees him. She rapidly turns into the parking lot as he's trying to elude her, slithering backwards thinking she won't notice. The guy had no insurance (against the law here in Maine) and made promises to pay me for the damage in a week if I just let him scoot away. I was like: no F'n way, dude! There was a cop just 500ft down the road with it's blues on pulling someone over, and I told him to give me his license for collateral. He was pissed and said no, that he needed it.... but I reminded him that he's driving w/no insurance and shouldn't be on the road right now... and if I go down the road to that cop, you certainly won't be driving for quite some time. Choice was his. I got the license and $300 from his sugar-mamma GF a couple weeks later. I don't get some women... wasting their lives away on the totally wrong guy....

[Juggy]

gotta love baby mama drama lol

[Aries_Turbo]

you aint kiddin. ive seen plenty of dumb girls bailing their loser --- boyfriends out of jail when im going fire alarm inspections at jails. lol.

Brian

[Directconnection]

Alrighty! It's been quite some time since I've given an update (for those of you who give a fawk :D)

Ran into a few issues that held me up here and there... but most of the car's update absence probably has to do with me slowing down.

One issue was the G-body rear axle fitting the R/T brackets (identical to the originals on the car that my boss accidentally hacked up) The spread was 5/8" too narrow as it made the poly squoosh out on the gap side, and the inside compress quite a bit to the point of almost metal to metal contact. So, I loosened the brackets, and pushed them inwards and then tightened, giving me about 1/16th" back, and ended up tweaking the ends about 5/16th" each side. Only drawback in doing this, is the big ends are not dead-nutz square... But, being the poly has give... and that end only rotates a few degrees vs. the opposite end, I'm not totally concerned. If I have issues down the road, then I'll ask Johnny for his uber-hard ones and tweak the ends back more square....

Other issue was the Panhard bar's bracket/brace to crossmember frame's stud location. I initially had "coordinates" written out for an exact location of the replacement frame's stud, but when in the heat of battle under the car welding/grinding, I told myself to cut the shat and git 'r done. The brace fell right into place, but once torqued down flush to the frame (remember, it had the serrated/knurled stud) it wasn't quite mint after that. I had to push it to get the bolt to go through the hanger's hole... about a 1/4" off. It's tied in pretty stiff... maybe a bit too much as I don't want to hit a corner at 100mph and *snap* ...off goes the stud :eyebrows: Anyways, tried popping it off, but it is really pressed on there big time, so I left it and torqued it back down.

List of parts: Koni struts, Eibach springs (the P-body model) PolyBushings street durometer oval pivot bushings, PolyBushings lower spring isolators, 20k mile '89 CSX spring perches/upper isolators (lucky find!) CS Racing adjustable track bar. That's it for now... rear brake installation and wheel hubs next. All painted and ready to go except for the new rear calipers... Oh yeah... new gas tank too to purdy it up in the end.

Feel free to add your input or suggestions!

[Directconnection]

Looking through the last few posts, I realize I never updated ya'll on the seam sealer issue?

It was the 3M Weld-Thru primer that caused the 3M "Fast 'n Firm" seam sealer to flake and peel. I ended up scraping and then wire-wheeling it all off, then scuffing by hand with some sandpaper. Then, used a non-etching primer in a can, then the seam sealer. Still on there perfectly after a month now. Stuff isn't easy to spread, though... as you got literally 2 minutes, otherwise it starts to crumble like cake if you continue to spread/smooth it.

[86Shelby]

Input: Suspension looks really, really nice! Keep up the good work!

Suggestion: Inflate the tire. :p

[Directconnection]

Input: Suspension looks really, really nice! Keep up the good work!

Suggestion: Inflate the tire. :p

Ha! That's my '67 Barracuda.... the tire only last about 30 minutes, and being that is *another* project.... she just sits for now.

I consider the Shadow far from ever becoming a true show car, but am pleased at it for not being all rusty underneath (even though there's a tender spot where the rear 1/4 rolls under behind the bumper cover)

[cordes]

Looking good Steve. I appreciate the updates.

[Directconnection]

Looking good Steve. I appreciate the updates.

Thanx, and I appreciate the feedback.

BTW: I notice that you're everywhere on the forum helping where you can, but hadn't a clue you took it a few steps further with some of your "How-To's" on youtube. I accidentally stumbled across a couple videos you posted on cam timing made easy. True TM spirit of going above and beyond helping others...

[rwlbjr]

Great project log Steve. I can wait till she is on the road... right next to the dontona. hopefully I can keep up.

[cordes]

Thanx, and I appreciate the feedback.

BTW: I notice that you're everywhere on the forum helping where you can, but hadn't a clue you took it a few steps further with some of your "How-To's" on youtube. I accidentally stumbled across a couple videos you posted on cam timing made easy. True TM spirit of going above and beyond helping others...

Thanks Steve. I appreciate the kind words. When I first came to TD I had only ever changed my oil, and by that I mean that I poured 3 and 1/4 qts. onto my driveway. The old timers in this community changed my life completely in a positive way by being patient and kind with their help and encouragement. I hope I can return even a small fraction of the help that I've received over the years.

[Directconnection]

Great project log Steve. I can wait till she is on the road... right next to the dontona. hopefully I can keep up.

Hey Rich, I'll do my bestest to help you keep the "Dontona" on the road for years to come... but not before this project ya know. :eyebrows: Maybe we'll do a project log for you soon. You know I still have a bunch of T-II stuff for ya and misc. spares. (just keep yer hands of the T-III goodies :))


Thanks Steve. I appreciate the kind words. When I first came to TD I had only ever changed my oil, and by that I mean that I poured 3 and 1/4 qts. onto my driveway. The old timers in this community changed my life completely in a positive way by being patient and kind with their help and encouragement. I hope I can return even a small fraction of the help that I've received over the years.

Yeah, I try not to jump down people's throats just because they lack experience. Lacking experience doesn't = stupidity. Just like how at my gym, some people judge you as a person by how much you "bench" Therefore, one shouldn't judge someone by how fast their car runs, right? Maybe they show no competence with mechanics, but maybe they are an incredible finish carpenter amongst their peers, or a genius when it comes to electronics, or a concert violinist.....

In my "noob" years, back on MIRC chat in '98 I remember pestering the "elders" as I was pulling my hair out with this exact same car. I remember bugging Dean Stillie to Dave Zelkowski... My problem(s) ended up being a bad VNT actuator keeping the vanes closed shut, a badly plugged cat, and a bad/weak fuel pump.... all this happened from sitting apart over the summer as I had the head/manifolds off.

[cordes]

Wow, it would take the turbo masters to trouble shoot that combo. What a nightmare that must have been.

[Directconnection]

Wow, it would take the turbo masters to trouble shoot that combo. What a nightmare that must have been.

Oh yes....... I checked cam timing over and over, pulled codes every day, probed wires and sensors with input on their correct ranges and resistances.... (even bought some stogeys and blew smoke in the lines to find vacuum line leaks) but everything kept checking fine. I was getting an injector driver circuit code after it would eventually foul out the plugs and die trying to diagnose what was wrong. Take out old plugs, put a bit of oil down in the bores and she'd fire right back up again... no injector driver circuit for the time being, but it would run on like 3 cylinders as the closed vanes were choking off exhaust flow... as was the cat somewhat. Got it finally running after figuring the vacuum port wasn't opening the vanes in vacuum... but then it would detonate at anything over 4,200 rpms. Ah... fuel pressure dropping FAST in boost! Replace pump... still detonating! WTF.... pull hair out for another month and finally throw in the towel as my last idea was to cut off the cat... and HOLY SHAT! 6,500 rpms! (before I knew better that the car was faster shifting at 5,500....)

[rx2mazda]

looking good!

[Directconnection]

looking good!

Thanx!

BTW: when will we be seeing your update?

[rx2mazda]

Thanx!

BTW: when will we be seeing your update?

soon!

[turbovanman²]

Damn, how did I miss this, :(

Great work man, looks awesome so far, :nod:

What grind did you get or is it uber secret? :p

[Directconnection]

Damn, how did I miss this, :(

Great work man, looks awesome so far, :nod:

What grind did you get or is it uber secret? :p

It's uber secret.... and I might end up like you: putting in stockers if something ain't right. Basically, they are Ultra-Dyne/Bullet cams with something we agreed upon which didn't steer much, if at all... away from the stock OEM profile. Just a bit more aggressive on the ramping (opening and closing) and a tad more lift. But his recommended centerline installs differ from the factory specs... but we talked a bit about that. If anyone is interested in giving this grind a try, they can contact me and I can put them in direct contact with the engineer over there as he has the Master made for others down the road thanx to me being the 1st set. (but the LWP S1s are reportedly pretty good, too)

I'm still working on the chassis and brakes.... well... here and there. I've spent too much time on here trying to sell parts and doing other non-car related tasks taking away from actual wrenching time.

[turbovanman²]

It's uber secret.... and I might end up like you: putting in stockers if something ain't right. Basically, they are Ultra-Dyne/Bullet cams with something we agreed upon which didn't steer much, if at all... away from the stock OEM profile. Just a bit more aggressive on the ramping (opening and closing) and a tad more lift. But his recommended centerline installs differ from the factory specs... but we talked a bit about that. If anyone is interested in giving this grind a try, they can contact me and I can put them in direct contact with the engineer over there as he has the Master made for others down the road thanx to me being the 1st set. (but the LWP S1s are reportedly pretty good, too)

I'm still working on the chassis and brakes.... well... here and there. I've spent too much time on here trying to sell parts and doing other non-car related tasks taking away from actual wrenching time.

Gotcha. I know my head guy doesn't like the factory centerlines either, compared to other engines, they are way off. I might look up 5 digits numbers and see what they are like, :eyebrows:

[Directconnection]

Gotcha. I know my head guy doesn't like the factory centerlines either, compared to other engines, they are way off. I might look up 5 digits numbers and see what they are like, :eyebrows:

I'd forget what your headporter says and go with what is the factory tried and true specs. That's what I might start with, and if it doesn't seem right, then go towards his recommendations. For the record, all timing events on my cams are exactly the same as the stockers... he wanted to keep "what works best" from the factory intact. No guinea pig testing at my expense!

BTW: what is the "5digits numbers" you speak of?

Also, what were the LWP S1 suggested centerlines?

[turbovanman²]

I'd forget what your headporter says and go with what is the factory tried and true specs. That's what I might start with, and if it doesn't seem right, then go towards his recommendations. For the record, all timing events on my cams are exactly the same as the stockers... he wanted to keep "what works best" from the factory intact. No guinea pig testing at my expense!

BTW: what is the "5digits numbers" you speak of?

Also, what were the LWP S1 suggested centerlines?

I degree to factory specs, then play, always have, :p

You and I were chatting about it, remember? 5 digits posted up some cam specs in his thread, something about a grind that works better but wasn't used? Maybe too much for a street car for the mass's. Olds did that with the Quad 4, detuned the piss out of it for the DD people.

[Directconnection]

I thought he was saying the Shelby proto cams were not as good as what they settled on in production form?

[turbovanman²]

I thought he was saying the Shelby proto cams were not as good as what they settled on in production form?

Thought he said the opposite???? :confused:

[bakes]

well pm him and find out!!!!

Thought he said the opposite???? :confused:

[turbovanman²]

well pm him and find out!!!!

I will but not really in any rush to try anything new at this time.

[Directconnection]

I will but not really in any rush to try anything new at this time.

*THERE* ya go, Simon! My new sig! hehehehe

[turbovanman²]

*THERE* ya go, Simon! My new sig! hehehehe

LOL, wondered who'd bite on that, :p

Wow, I am so sig worthy, I think I have 3 sigs out there, :lol:

[Directconnection]

I need to find out what is needed to be done to keep my existing power steering -rack- in this 1990 Shadow, yet able to run the complete T-III serpentine setup. Obviously, I need a T-III power steering pump with it's pulley, and I believe Simon told me I need to get a certain fitting and use the pressure line from the T-III pump? I keep and use the original return I have?

I am not sure which pump I have as all my cars have been '90+ and I think I have the ZF pump.

[turbovanman²]

I need to find out what is needed to be done to keep my existing power steering -rack- in this 1990 Shadow, yet able to run the complete T-III serpentine setup. Obviously, I need a T-III power steering pump with it's pulley, and I believe Simon told me I need to get a certain fitting and use the pressure line from the T-III pump? I keep and use the original return I have?

I am not sure which pump I have as all my cars have been '90+ and I think I have the ZF pump.

If your engine bay pic correct, if so, then your golden, you already have the banjo fitting, so you simply use the TIII ps pump, and reuse the TIII banjo or your original banjo bolt, :nod:

[Directconnection]

If your engine bay pic correct, if so, then your golden, you already have the banjo fitting, so you simply use the TIII ps pump, and reuse the TIII banjo or your original banjo bolt, :nod:

What about the line? I use my banjo bolt.... but use the T-III pressure line?

[turbovanman²]

What about the line? I use my banjo bolt.... but use the T-III pressure line?

USE YOUR OLD LINE, its the same, :p

[Directconnection]

USE YOUR OLD LINE, its the same, :p

100% sure? That would be awesome news! I just thought the lines would differ a tad from the pump placement being a c-hair different... from an 8V setup to a T-III.

[turbovanman²]

100% sure? That would be awesome news! I just thought the lines would differ a tad from the pump placement being a c-hair different... from an 8V setup to a T-III.

Once again for the hard of reading, ITS THE SAME, :p

What line do think I am using, its a HP hose off a 90 Shadow which is the same as the R/T's, :nod:

[Pat]

100% sure? That would be awesome news! I just thought the lines would differ a tad from the pump placement being a c-hair different... from an 8V setup to a T-III.

When I built my '88 Shadow, I used a later model Shadow line on the T-III pump.

[Directconnection]

Representin' the hard of hearin' gang.... I gotz it now!

[shackwrrr]

Representin' the hard of hearin' gang.... I gotz it now!

The T3 line has a flat spot in it to clear the resivior You can add it manually if its a problem. Or you could do the MR2 spyder power steering pump, and lengel's ps delete.

[turbovanman²]

The T3 line has a flat spot in it to clear the resivior You can add it manually if its a problem. Or you could do the MR2 spyder power steering pump, and lengel's ps delete.

Mine doesn't have it, I just used a ZF line from a 90 Shadow, hmmmmmmm.

[shackwrrr]

Mine doesn't have it, I just used a ZF line from a 90 Shadow, hmmmmmmm.

just something I noticed on mine and read before on here. Could be that chrysler added it because it was too close or something without it.

[turbovanman²]

just something I noticed on mine and read before on here. Could be that chrysler added it because it was too close or something without it.

Its possible they did it to reduce the angle, the line does get pulled a bit, right after the metal sleeve ends and it turns to rubber. I'll snap a pic of mine.

[shackwrrr]

Went and looked at my car. Flat spot is milled for pulley clearance.