Shadowjake
05-09-2011, 01:56 PM
I didn't see any how to for installing the Walbro when I was wanting to install one in my 89 Shelby CSX so I thought I'd put one together. It is not hard and most of it can be figured out with little effort (which is probably why noone has taken the time to do a write up). But hopefully this will compliment the instructions provided with the pump and make it even easier.
The in tank Walbro can be purchased here:
http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/walbro-tank-high-pressure-fuel-pump-p-140.html
http://www.fwdperformance.com/store/Product.asp?IDCatalog=7&ProductID=76
The first thing you need to do is drop the tank.
No need to drop the tank for G-body, P-body, or L-body to change the fuel pump. In L-body, you don't even need to jack the car up.
To do this, jack up the rear of the vehicle as high as you can. You need to remove all hoses and electrical connections from the tank and the 4 screws holding the filler tube to the rear fender.
Don't forget these 4 screws!
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TcN_mgmWLBI/AAAAAAAADrU/HddzctFB348/s800/P1020084.JPG
I also removed the heat shields and unscrewed the fuel filter mount to get the front of the tank to come out easier and the right rear tire to allow more clearance for the filler neck. Once these are removed, you can loosen the 2 nuts on the tank straps. after you remove one strap, support the tank with a floor jack before removing the second one. It might take some finessing to maneuver the tank down and out.
The kit includes everything in the picture (I ordered mine from FWDPerformance years ago).
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Tb9sJJn0hkI/AAAAAAAADqg/6eTDxy1cP_8/s800/P1020054.JPG
Once the tank is out, you will need to remove the lock ring and remove the fuel pump.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Tb9sPti0r5I/AAAAAAAADpM/McLYcnOBH6o/s800/P1020057.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Tb9sVCi1mRI/AAAAAAAADpY/hHCR-YeBZtk/s800/P1020059.JPG
Here is the old pump removed:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Tb9sbM6tDNI/AAAAAAAADpk/gNaNCouAgwQ/s800/P1020060.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Tb9sbpgQlfI/AAAAAAAADpo/e63F62SoLSU/s800/P1020062.JPG
Now to remove the old pump, you need to cut the wires as close to the terminals (ON THE PUMP) as possible.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Tb9skxx3wPI/AAAAAAAADp8/Ax-48DHL4_M/s800/P1020065.JPG
Unscrew the 2 screws holding the metal support rod to the plastic pump holder. The only thing connecting the 2 halves of the pump assembly now should be the rubber fuel line.
Remove the clamps on the fuel line and remove it. Also to note, the black part in the right of the picture below is the pulse dampener. It is optional when reassembling. According to:
You don't need the pulse damper. I figure it can only hamper flow or be a source of trouble so I leave them out.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Tb9sqx9JfdI/AAAAAAAADqE/xO_N7TOdcRA/s800/P1020066.JPG
Now you can tear down the pump assembly removing all wear items and the old pump. Here is the pump broken down. The only parts you will re-use from this picture are the housing (2nd from left) and the isolator (black cylindrical rubber piece).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TcN_JIvHSGI/AAAAAAAADqo/Mn6DnpxhxxY/s800/P1020071.JPG
Now grab the new pump and install the new spacer and o-ring at the inlet. This is what seals it to the pickup.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TcN_NNu9QiI/AAAAAAAADqs/T2iGPtNk2m8/s800/P1020074.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TcN_NPpbTVI/AAAAAAAADqw/jt-qVQfr7LQ/s800/P1020075.JPG
Now install the new filter adaptor in the housing. I would wait on the filter for now; I installed it a little early in this picture and had to remove it to see if the pump was seated correctly.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TcN_PVIlEnI/AAAAAAAADq0/GD-jbf_vOa0/s800/P1020073.JPG
Then slide the black isolator back into the housing, and the new pump into the isolator ensuring the o-ring seats/seals against the filter adapter. If it doesn't, it won't transfer the suction through the strainer filter.
Replace the fuel line that goes between the pump and tank outlet and clamp in place. The pump kit usually comes with a replacement line, but if it doesn't MAKE SURE IT IS RATED FOR SUBMERGED USE! According to:
SAE-30R10 is the fuel hose rated for submerged use. He also recommends replacing the filler neck grommet on the tank while it's out. It is still widely available at the dealer.
Another thing to note:
1 ft of the 30R10 hose is between $25-$30. Well worth it, though.
Use ONLY 30R10 or other fuel line that is rated for in-tank use. Other wise, the line could melt inside the tank and you'll wonder why you have no fuel pressure with the fuel pump within a few days.
Also, my kit came with worm gear clamps (pictured). I plan to swap them for the t-bolt style fuel clamps since I have heard of people having fuel system problems caused by the clamps cutting into the hose when tightened. Cheap insurance while I'm in there, I figure.
Now is a good time to do the wiring. Strip about 1/4" off the ends of each wire on the pump support and on the pigtail that came with the new pump. Splice the ends together noting polarity. (FYI, if your pump has 2 black wires coming from the support side, the positive one is the one with the larger connectors on each end. If polarity is reversed, your pump will run in reverse so make sure you are 100% sure on what is positive and negative.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TcN_UINs_WI/AAAAAAAADq8/L3jRL_oHVjI/s800/P1020076.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TcN_k1gdZ-I/AAAAAAAADrQ/jclMo2gHKyY/s800/P1020082.JPG
The whole assembly should look like this when complete. I have the pulse damener installed in this picture but have since removed it.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TcN_brCc-zI/AAAAAAAADrE/CghhaJeU3YI/s800/P1020080.JPG
Now all that is left is to plug in the pump's electrical connector, install the filter strainer to the pump inlet (if not done already) and install it back into the tank. USE A NEW RUBBER RING WHEN INSTALLING IT INTO THE TANK!
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TcN_gmFu7mI/AAAAAAAADrM/LPT5VJBEQfY/s800/P1020081.JPG
This is all the crap I had left over that wasn't used. I wonder if this old pump could be used to make a water sprayer for the intercooler :eyebrows:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/I didn't see any how to for installing the Walbro when I was wanting to install one in my 89 Shelby CSX so I thought I'd put one together.It is not hard and most of it can be figured out with little effort (which is probably why noone has taken the time to do a write up).But hopefully this will compliment the instructions provided with the pump and make it even easier.
Some other tips:
Buy a new external fuel filter and install it at the same time.
Buy new 30R9 fuel injection (no regular cheap fuel hose) 5/16 and 1/4 to replace the lines to the tank, to the fuel filter,and to the fuel rail if they are old. 2 ft of each should be plenty.
I hope this helps someone.
The in tank Walbro can be purchased here:
http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/walbro-tank-high-pressure-fuel-pump-p-140.html
http://www.fwdperformance.com/store/Product.asp?IDCatalog=7&ProductID=76
The first thing you need to do is drop the tank.
No need to drop the tank for G-body, P-body, or L-body to change the fuel pump. In L-body, you don't even need to jack the car up.
To do this, jack up the rear of the vehicle as high as you can. You need to remove all hoses and electrical connections from the tank and the 4 screws holding the filler tube to the rear fender.
Don't forget these 4 screws!
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TcN_mgmWLBI/AAAAAAAADrU/HddzctFB348/s800/P1020084.JPG
I also removed the heat shields and unscrewed the fuel filter mount to get the front of the tank to come out easier and the right rear tire to allow more clearance for the filler neck. Once these are removed, you can loosen the 2 nuts on the tank straps. after you remove one strap, support the tank with a floor jack before removing the second one. It might take some finessing to maneuver the tank down and out.
The kit includes everything in the picture (I ordered mine from FWDPerformance years ago).
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Tb9sJJn0hkI/AAAAAAAADqg/6eTDxy1cP_8/s800/P1020054.JPG
Once the tank is out, you will need to remove the lock ring and remove the fuel pump.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Tb9sPti0r5I/AAAAAAAADpM/McLYcnOBH6o/s800/P1020057.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Tb9sVCi1mRI/AAAAAAAADpY/hHCR-YeBZtk/s800/P1020059.JPG
Here is the old pump removed:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Tb9sbM6tDNI/AAAAAAAADpk/gNaNCouAgwQ/s800/P1020060.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Tb9sbpgQlfI/AAAAAAAADpo/e63F62SoLSU/s800/P1020062.JPG
Now to remove the old pump, you need to cut the wires as close to the terminals (ON THE PUMP) as possible.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Tb9skxx3wPI/AAAAAAAADp8/Ax-48DHL4_M/s800/P1020065.JPG
Unscrew the 2 screws holding the metal support rod to the plastic pump holder. The only thing connecting the 2 halves of the pump assembly now should be the rubber fuel line.
Remove the clamps on the fuel line and remove it. Also to note, the black part in the right of the picture below is the pulse dampener. It is optional when reassembling. According to:
You don't need the pulse damper. I figure it can only hamper flow or be a source of trouble so I leave them out.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/Tb9sqx9JfdI/AAAAAAAADqE/xO_N7TOdcRA/s800/P1020066.JPG
Now you can tear down the pump assembly removing all wear items and the old pump. Here is the pump broken down. The only parts you will re-use from this picture are the housing (2nd from left) and the isolator (black cylindrical rubber piece).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TcN_JIvHSGI/AAAAAAAADqo/Mn6DnpxhxxY/s800/P1020071.JPG
Now grab the new pump and install the new spacer and o-ring at the inlet. This is what seals it to the pickup.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TcN_NNu9QiI/AAAAAAAADqs/T2iGPtNk2m8/s800/P1020074.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TcN_NPpbTVI/AAAAAAAADqw/jt-qVQfr7LQ/s800/P1020075.JPG
Now install the new filter adaptor in the housing. I would wait on the filter for now; I installed it a little early in this picture and had to remove it to see if the pump was seated correctly.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TcN_PVIlEnI/AAAAAAAADq0/GD-jbf_vOa0/s800/P1020073.JPG
Then slide the black isolator back into the housing, and the new pump into the isolator ensuring the o-ring seats/seals against the filter adapter. If it doesn't, it won't transfer the suction through the strainer filter.
Replace the fuel line that goes between the pump and tank outlet and clamp in place. The pump kit usually comes with a replacement line, but if it doesn't MAKE SURE IT IS RATED FOR SUBMERGED USE! According to:
SAE-30R10 is the fuel hose rated for submerged use. He also recommends replacing the filler neck grommet on the tank while it's out. It is still widely available at the dealer.
Another thing to note:
1 ft of the 30R10 hose is between $25-$30. Well worth it, though.
Use ONLY 30R10 or other fuel line that is rated for in-tank use. Other wise, the line could melt inside the tank and you'll wonder why you have no fuel pressure with the fuel pump within a few days.
Also, my kit came with worm gear clamps (pictured). I plan to swap them for the t-bolt style fuel clamps since I have heard of people having fuel system problems caused by the clamps cutting into the hose when tightened. Cheap insurance while I'm in there, I figure.
Now is a good time to do the wiring. Strip about 1/4" off the ends of each wire on the pump support and on the pigtail that came with the new pump. Splice the ends together noting polarity. (FYI, if your pump has 2 black wires coming from the support side, the positive one is the one with the larger connectors on each end. If polarity is reversed, your pump will run in reverse so make sure you are 100% sure on what is positive and negative.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TcN_UINs_WI/AAAAAAAADq8/L3jRL_oHVjI/s800/P1020076.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TcN_k1gdZ-I/AAAAAAAADrQ/jclMo2gHKyY/s800/P1020082.JPG
The whole assembly should look like this when complete. I have the pulse damener installed in this picture but have since removed it.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TcN_brCc-zI/AAAAAAAADrE/CghhaJeU3YI/s800/P1020080.JPG
Now all that is left is to plug in the pump's electrical connector, install the filter strainer to the pump inlet (if not done already) and install it back into the tank. USE A NEW RUBBER RING WHEN INSTALLING IT INTO THE TANK!
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_rvhD6gH1e6I/TcN_gmFu7mI/AAAAAAAADrM/LPT5VJBEQfY/s800/P1020081.JPG
This is all the crap I had left over that wasn't used. I wonder if this old pump could be used to make a water sprayer for the intercooler :eyebrows:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/I didn't see any how to for installing the Walbro when I was wanting to install one in my 89 Shelby CSX so I thought I'd put one together.It is not hard and most of it can be figured out with little effort (which is probably why noone has taken the time to do a write up).But hopefully this will compliment the instructions provided with the pump and make it even easier.
Some other tips:
Buy a new external fuel filter and install it at the same time.
Buy new 30R9 fuel injection (no regular cheap fuel hose) 5/16 and 1/4 to replace the lines to the tank, to the fuel filter,and to the fuel rail if they are old. 2 ft of each should be plenty.
I hope this helps someone.