Runnin like pos

[trannybuster]

Not sure wtf is goin on, car was running okay after checkup/overhaul now is about time for 5gal of gas and a match. At 10psi itll backfire and everything else. Ive check cam timing, dist timing, swapped out plugs, wires, hep and still same old bs. If you ease into boost it make 15psi without shiat'en all oc=ver itself but you can tell it isnt right. Egts look good, and wideband displays wot 10.1...
Build
2.2
+40s
afpr set at base of 45
3bar
ostrich
ported everything
3.0 sv
3.0 exhaust
big npr intercooler
Ive tried running the BB60 and a stage5 both produce same bs...car was running pretty good before but I found the dist timing was way off. If taking it easy car runs like a top.

---------- Post added at 02:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:20 PM ----------

Also this running a fwd stage2 cam, says it installs 114* do I need to degree it to 120*..??

[bakes]

Did you scale your +40 for 52 or 58#injectors sound like it is drowing in fuel.

[trannybuster]

Scaled injectors to 52# I also just tried running the chip extender and a new dist rotor, no change.

[bakes]

Try scaling to 58# injectors
but 1st make sure your Fuel preasure is set to 55psi vac disconected then take some fuel out of your current cal.

[trannybuster]

Pressure set to 55 vac disconnected, gonna scale injectors now see what happens....

---------- Post added at 03:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:28 PM ----------

not quite right yet

---------- Post added at 03:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:38 PM ----------

Talk about dissapointing, all that cash and fkin thing wont even boost wthout coughing like an old man. WHats best way to pull out fuel, I tried dropping pressure but it still has issues.

[bakes]

Plugs set to .28"????

[cordes]

Sounds like you need to tune the pumping efficiency table.

[trannybuster]

The pumping efficieny I havent adjusted yet, its the bb60 cal, wouldnt I be leaning out instead of too much fuel? I tried a brand new set of champion plugs , same results..

[trannybuster]

plugs gapped 0.028....

---------- Post added at 04:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:51 PM ----------

Well I only got about one more road test in me, then Im throwin in the towel today. Got everything done over the cold weather so that Id be more than enough ready for summer, so far not so good...

[Juggy]

Plugs set to .28"????

good luck gettin that gap to fire!! haha

---------- Post added at 05:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:24 PM ----------


plugs gapped 0.028....

---------- Post added at 04:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:51 PM ----------

Well I only got about one more road test in me, then Im throwin in the towel today. Got everything done over the cold weather so that Id be more than enough ready for summer, so far not so good...

not 2 be rude. but youve had quite a few threads going on. it really seems to me like you are trying to F with too much all at once (mechanically, and in your tune) have you even tried a basic MP cal and going back to 2 bar setup???

+40s would be a little rich. jsut scale them. or drop the FP down to like 32-33 psi and it should get you in the ball park.

PS. im going to tell you this again. your wideband is prolly jacked. your steady 10:1 readings lead me to believe this.
you really need to stop thinking about your cam timing too. just leave it straight up for now. dont even think about it.

---------- Post added at 05:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:30 PM ----------


good luck gettin that gap to fire!! haha

---------- Post added at 05:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:24 PM ----------



not 2 be rude. but youve had quite a few threads going on. it really seems to me like you are trying to F with too much all at once (mechanically, and in your tune) have you even tried a basic MP cal and going back to 2 bar setup???

+40s would be a little rich. jsut scale them. or drop the FP down to like 32-33 psi and it should get you in the ball park.

PS. im going to tell you this again. your wideband is prolly jacked. your steady 10:1 readings lead me to believe this.
you really need to stop thinking about your cam timing too. just leave it straight up for now. dont even think about it.

edit: i know im prolly sounding like a ars. but going back to basics has always worked for me. working backwards on these cars, will usually get you to where you want rather then working forwards :lol:

[trannybuster]

The wideband is brand new, but I suppose anything can be bad brand new. Its installed ABOUT 3ft from the turbo...idk. If I remember right I had to move and add a wire just to go to 3bar so Id need to undo that? Setting the timing stalls the car when I unplug the sensor, im guessing because I have no ais but it isnt that far off. Last year the car ran good other than lean, and the only difference now is adjustable cam gear and fwd performance stage2. Ive got no clue, something else is failing but I dont know what. Now all of sudden its backfiring.

[rx2mazda]

Have you checked the voltage on your TPS?

[trannybuster]

I will, I checked it when I first installed the edelbrock tb, so its possible its pouched. Right now IM checking my intermediate shaft keyway to make sue it didnt shear because my timing marks and dist rotor do not relate. The cam and intermediate sprockets are the same no?

[cordes]

What edelbrock TB are you running? How does that work?

[trannybuster]

Its 70mm throttle body, no ais.

[bakes]

The intermediate shaft and crank marks should align with a straight edge through the bolt center line without turning the crank pull the dist. the tang marks should run parallel with the crank (if not you have to drop the pan and re index the oil pump drive) . the cam is set with the parting cam cap parting lines

[trannybuster]

It has to be timing issue so like juggy suggested go back to the basics. I wont even bother to run it unless I know its 100% timed and if it means resetting dist drive so be it.

[trannybuster]

Well found the issue,not cool. So I pull the pulley's off to check timing marks and the intermediate shaft gear and dist #1 dont align. Now Im 99% sure I aligned those marks cause quite a few years ago I didnt and chased my tail around, anyhow I suck it up and align flywheel to 0, get the dist close, put the belt on and trhow timing light on it, perfect. Car is running sweet, now I have it on jackstands cause I was checking fw things out so its just idling. Then I hear a slight rod knock, wtf, and it goes away quick like. Im thinkin that aint cool, and then all of a sudden it really starts knockin. Hurry up and shut the car down. Its too late, once II hear some shiat like that I dont mess around so I pulled the engine. Got all the rod caps off and really they dont look that bad, hm. Okay maybe its a main. Before I pull those caps I gotta pull the pump. I looked the screen over becasue I thought I plugged it with silicone but its reasonably clean. Then I noticed some of the teeth are worn WAY down. The intermediate shaft doesnt look any better. I have never had this type of failure before and Ive rebuilt at least seven of these engines. The pump was tight, the intermediate shaft was tight. Im wondering is some a'hole forgot to send the pump drive in for hardening and it just chewed away both gears.
Couple of questions
If I have to use a pre common block pump drive are they the same
Should I just re-hone and use rings as is (weisco)
Anyone else experience any failures as described above
Ive already got everything I need to fix it, new intermediate shaft bearings, blah blah..

[trannybuster]

Did some searching on the site and answered my own questions, was hoping someone would have answered so I could spend more time wrenching than surfing.. :) Should be back and running by weekend!