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PunKid
04-25-2011, 07:48 PM
Ok so the car is showing a code 17 today.

From Mini Mopars site

Notes: For 1985 models only Description: Detonation sensor (http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/ecu/detonation_se.html) output is too low
Power loss light: On
Limp-in mode: None

Possible Causes

Bad detonation sensor - The detonation sensor should produce voltage spikes above 0.04V at 5,000 rpm (you will need an oscilloscope to see them). Remove the sensor and tap on the bottom of it with a wrench. This should produce voltage spikes of a couple of volts. Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the sensor and the logic module. Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease. Check to see that the sensor threads do not have tape on them. This may prevent it from getting a good ground.

Diagnostic Method

Trigger Parameters

- Engine speed above 5,000 rpm
- Sensor voltage output is not greater than 0.04V for 3 seconds Results If Component Fails

Fault code 17 is stored and the power loss light is turned on. If the sensor ever outputs more than 0.04V, the power loss light is turned off.


Car break down
1985 GLH-T Stock motor, head, trans. computer (no MBC)
Recent Head gasket and 3" exhaust (down pipe, muffler, tail pipe) and a 2.5" swing valve.
Adjustable wastegate arm.
boost gage

I did the head gasket about 200 miles ago and driving around it seamed fine. it pulled good but felt a little laggy. at the time I had no boost gauge and the wastegate arm was set almost neutral (very little pressure). and I had no fault codes

recently I had to redue my cam seal (dont ask) and I did the oil pan gasket. I added the boost gauge and put a turn into the waste gate rod (maybe 1/4" of preload)


So driving around I am finally able to see my boost levels anywhere from 5-7psi depending on conditions, with occasional 9 psi.

I decide to jump on the highway and see what it does under heavy load. I cruise around the on ramp in 3rd at about 40mph and as it straightens out I ease into the throttle and then slowly roll WOT. Well the computer seams to be very happy with the condition (50F and damp) and gave me 9 psi all the way to about 5200rpm, I shift into 4th and I see the boost go 10.......11.....12... POP POP! and I get out of it and see the check engine light is on. I figured I hit over boost but the check engine light did not shut off. I checked the code and it was 17. I then fired the car back up and the light was off. I tried multiple times to duplicate the boost and pop, but the most I could get was 10psi in 3rd once. the light is still off but its still tells me I have a code 17

I never heard any denation. I am only running 87 ocatane (10% ethanol) and its very possible It did and I did not hear it. In any case it was pulling really good.

So thats problem one, I do have a spare knock sensor I could through in (unknown condition). anyone else ever get this code.


Next issue (or inquiry) is about the boost level and the stock computer. I have the parts to make a grainger valve so it will not be an issue soon.


I was wondering if the following seams like normal 85 log LM conditions

cruise to 1/4 throttle anywhere from 15in vac to 3lbs of boost depending on gear and load.
1/4 to 3/4 throttle anywhere from 3lbs to 7lbs
WOT 5lbs to 10lbs

The thing I noticed (most of the time) is WOT roll on in 4th only gets about 5lbs. but if your in 2nd or 3rd and you roll on it you get kinda a step sequence 5lbs then 7lbs then 9lbs and if you shift you will still get around 9lbs

I truely think its just the computer doing its thing I just wanted some confirmation.


I really can't wait to put the grainger valve in.

PunKid
04-26-2011, 01:45 PM
After searching more I think this is unique to 1985 models and could be why no one has had this problem

PunKid
05-11-2011, 12:16 PM
Okay it happen again today

3rd gear pull, two people in the car, 87 octane. I ran it just above 5K and it boosted to 9psi then above 4500 it went to about 10 or 11psi. And then I let off and realized the light was on.

So now I am curious if this is a faulty sensor or just that I had a bunch of detonation (although I did not hear any) and thats why the check engine light came on.

I also just reread my first post and the conditions outside are almost identical, 50F and damp. kinda weird