Thinking about getting a 2004 300m

[J&H Ryan]

Deal I might not be able to pass up seeing as the old faithful Jeep (2000 Cherokee Limited) is hitting 186k while gas is hitting $4.

It has 99k and the trans was replaced by Chrysler at 85k. 1 Owner, Chrysler employee.

Anything I should know about these things? Last experience with LX cars was with my buddy's 1996 Intrepid in 2005 and it wasn't a good one...(trans, suspension wasted, cheap interior)

[Mopar318]

My experience with them is that they have bad suspension and steering racks. I'm sure if one was well taken care of, it should be fine. They don't seem to be very quick for having all thought power either.

[glhs0426]

Timing belt and water pump is due NOW! This is an interference engine! Check the inner tie rods at the rack (bushings are available). Check the transmission line crimps @ the left front for leaks. If they are leaking, peel back the crimp and install some fuel injection hose clamps. The leak here will kill the link bushings on the LF suspension. Check all eight front cradle bushings (tops and bottoms). They look like they were made from foam. PolyBushings makes them for the 1st gen LH cars but not the 2nd gen (this car).

[JDAWG]

the poly mounts are nice and the poly mounts are way cheaper

[135sohc]

Great cars. In stock form the suspension would be like doing a full koni/coilover performance build on a TM for comparison, very responsive for being a big tuna boat cruiser IMO. Steering racks were an issue on the first gen LH's. our 03 hasnt developed the slop issue @ the inner connection. Transmission.... its a chrysler automatic, need I say anything more. atf+4 & filter change often.
I dont drive around racing from stop light to stop light or smash the gas on a regular basis but the 3.5 moves the cars along nicely for my liking...

Waterpump & timing belt are like 2.2 albeit a little more buried and involved when trying to access but not as terrible as they seem. Cradle bushings atleast on our 03 are rubber/steel bonded, not that foam crap like the first gen series.

[dwh4784]

I'd hold out for a 2011+ personally. Mopars will still lose their value hand over fist until they prove themselves, so the first gen of the new crop may be a good chance for us die-hards to pick up some deals...

[Vigo]

a 2011 anything is going to cost 3-10x more than a 2004 300m.

I think they're good cars, go for it. The only reason i didnt end up getting one for my mom last year was because we found a nice Volvo S80 for cheap.

[dodgeshadowchik]

As long as it is a 3.5L and not a 2.7L, then go for it.

[J&H Ryan]

I'll ask if the timing belt has ever been changed, thats good to know, water pump at the same time. Yeah, the trans already went once, so I'll try to keep up on this one. Its in good condition, and as far as a good deal, I'm getting it for $4500 and already have the "Special" headlights and a real wood wheel lined up for it. It will mostly be the wifes DD when shes not working in the summer (teacher) unless chrysler pitches a ----- about me driving a honda to work.

Thanks for all the advice and opinions, convinced me that despite a few maintenance issues, this should be a good car.

30311

[Opticon]

I have a 2003 300M Special as a daily driver. How dependable these cars are is extremely dependant on their history. Neglected cars will have trans failures, abused cars will have rod bearing failures, and they all suffer from cost cutting (especially after 2002) resulting in small componant failures now and then (cam position sensor, emissions switches, little crap). Generally speaking they are not as bulletproof or as cheap as a Neon, but if they are shown a reasonable amount of care they are still very reliable, enjoyable, and cost effective cars. And they perform VERY well for the money they don't cost.

Ignorant owners often manage to kill them dead before 100k miles but I have no compunctions about suggesting a 2nd Gen LH to anyone who is familiar with cars (especially a Mopar guy). We have guys on the 300M forum that have taken their car over 200k with very little trouble.

[135sohc]

I think were on #3 for the cam sensor. oe died @ 48k, oe replacment @85k and now with the aftermarket one its @ 150k and still going.

[black86glhs]

From what I have seen up here, is the trans goes into limp mode due to a sensor failure and they keep driving it. Either the engine goes, or the trans burns up. Since it has been replaced, go for it. You know how to take care of these things.

[chilort]

I have a 2003. The steering rack itself doesn't fail like the 1st gen but the bushings at the steering rack most certainly do still fail. It is a stupid design and expect to have to replace those bushings every 80-100k miles. The front shocks are also known to fail in a way that cups the tires badly.

My 300M is also tossing the belts (accessory, not timing). I am sitting in a dealership right now waiting for them to reinstall the accessory belts again. This should be the last time for this issue.

Mine only has 75k miles on it. I bought it from someone who never drove it and it is in great condition. I asked the dealership about the timing belt and they said to come back at 100k miles on the clock.

I think it gets along well for as big as it is and it handles well for as big as it is too.

My AC freezes up so every few minutes if I am in very humid conditions (every day in Georgia) it will frost over and I have to turn it off and let it thaw a bit.

[JDAWG]

its low on refrigerant

[Spr-T-23]

make sure its a 3.2 or 3.5 engine. my gf has one with 214k on it, runs great still, trans is still great. they have window issues, crappy design. im putting new lower ball joint and outer TREs this weekend. make sure at 100k it gets a new water pump, timing belt, and tensioner pully. i guess PM me if you have any questions.

[J&H Ryan]

hrm, they said something about a new water pump when I talked to them about the car again, forgot to ask about the timing belt seeing as it makes sense that you'd have the mech do both at the same time. If both have those have been done, than score, otherwise the belt will be #1 on the list of things to do.

These engines respond well to synthetic? I normally do either Brad Penn or Mobil 1 in all my cars worth anything.

I drove another 99 300m with 125 on the clock yesterday, and it definitely had all the issues described here with the steering rack bushings and shocks causing cupping! It was a pile, as well as alot of improvements made between 99 and 04 it seems with trim and other details.

[dodgeshadowchik]

Synthetic oil is recommended for the 2.7L because of its sludgeing issue. But other than that, you'd be fine running conventional in it.

[RoadWarrior222]

I'd hold out for a 2011+ personally. Mopars will still lose their value hand over fist until they prove themselves, so the first gen of the new crop may be a good chance for us die-hards to pick up some deals...
You think the wrong way round, if depreciation is chronic, you get the 5 year old bottomed out one for pennies on the dollar, and have a lot more car for the money than if you went with something that's reliability is purely legendary. (i.e. has no basis in fact)

[Spr-T-23]

i run synth or atleast bled in the gfs car, depending on how much money i have in my pocket when i do the oil change. hers is a 2000 and aside from needing lower ball joints and TREs the front end is ok, must just be pre 2000 cars then. the windows WILL break, never seen one that wasnt, may have been replaced already. the braket that the track hooks to is glued to the window so if the window if froze shut and you hit the button, you rip the glass off the braket, usualy the front braket in my experiance. windows are only $55 each online, just got some the other day for the gfs car. door lock motor gears like to strip out too. nothing realy majorly bad i can say about the cars though, i would buy another one.

[J&H Ryan]

Synthetic oil is recommended for the 2.7L because of its sludgeing issue. But other than that, you'd be fine running conventional in it.
300m's only came with the 3.5l, so I'm good there.


You think the wrong way round, if depreciation is chronic, you get the 5 year old bottomed out one for pennies on the dollar, and have a lot more car for the money than if you went with something that's reliability is purely legendary. (i.e. has no basis in fact)
Most importantly in that decision, I can't afford a new Challenger 392 (would get that over a 300c in the 40k range)


i run synth or atleast bled in the gfs car, depending on how much money i have in my pocket when i do the oil change. hers is a 2000 and aside from needing lower ball joints and TREs the front end is ok, must just be pre 2000 cars then. the windows WILL break, never seen one that wasnt, may have been replaced already. the braket that the track hooks to is glued to the window so if the window if froze shut and you hit the button, you rip the glass off the braket, usualy the front braket in my experiance. windows are only $55 each online, just got some the other day for the gfs car. door lock motor gears like to strip out too. nothing realy majorly bad i can say about the cars though, i would buy another one.
Wow, I'm used to plastic gears breaking in Jeep doors, but breaking the glass takes the cake. No biggie, like you said, its a cheap, fast fix if it does happen.

[V8GremlinX]

The have very shitty Wheels/Tires. Wheels like to crack and if they have chrome plan on replacing from chrome peel. they bend like butter. also tires are usually more costly. and the car wears tires very very fast :-) just my 2 cents managing a Tire Shop.

[chilort]

Must be the salt that kills the chrome. My Georgia rims are great. Yes, a set of 4 tires was expensive.

The reason they wear the tires is because of those stupid bushings in the steering. Whether it is a gen 1 or a gen 2 the tie rods still attach to the rack in the same way and that design is junk. AFAIK there has never been a better part made.

I do have to say, even with its faults, it is the nicest car I've ever owned. Of course, I only own Mopars so maybe that is my problem.:confused:

I've also been running Valvoline full synthetic in the car since I did the 2nd oil change.

[dodgeshadowchik]

300m's only came with the 3.5l, so I'm good there.



LOL, ok then, you are good! Sorry, everytime I see one of these cars I think "LH" in general.

---------- Post added at 12:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:34 AM ----------


Must be the salt that kills the chrome. My Georgia rims are great. Yes, a set of 4 tires was expensive.


Salt sucks!! I believe you are correct. I've seen many a pitted, nasty looking chrome wheel up here. My mom's Jeep had some of the nastiest pitting; BUT she also never washed the truck. I do believe in keeping a car clean, especialy during winter. Getting that salt off the car is crucial to the longevity of the material.

[J&H Ryan]

The have very shitty Wheels/Tires. Wheels like to crack and if they have chrome plan on replacing from chrome peel. they bend like butter. also tires are usually more costly. and the car wears tires very very fast :-) just my 2 cents managing a Tire Shop.
Wait, you manage a tire shop? Which one? Likely going to need some new tires for the rear of the hon-duh this summer (two 360's in the parking lot didn't help today, made a 100' wide figure 8 shape in the asphalt...)

Also, this 300m is a "base". No sunroof or chrome wheels to break and pit, respectively.

[V8GremlinX]

yea im a Manager of the Costco Tire Center in Brighton. we only carry top brands Michelin and Bridgestone. they can be pricey but u pay for what u get.

[J&H Ryan]

I haven't done anything important yet, but I couldn't leave the taillights alone tonight:
stock:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/300m/DSC05369.jpg

LED:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/300m/DSC05368.jpg

comparo:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/300m/DSC05372.jpg

[chilort]

Nice.

Mine threw the AC belt again today. Dealership said they couldn't work me in until Monday. I replaced it myself once I got home from work. I guess we'll see how long the cheap one from O'Reilly lasts.

---------- Post added at 12:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:09 AM ----------

Also, watch the front air damn. It hangs low.

[daytonablue]

These cars are great in my opinion. I have owned at least 20 lh cars so far. The wifes dd for the last 3 years is a 99 300m with 240k on the clock. Everything is original right down to the ball joints and tie rod ends. The only thing I ever have to replace on lh cars is the cradle bushings (96 & 97 cars use foam) which I replace with my stash of rubber ones from 93-95 cars I have parted out. I also have to replace inner tie rod bushings (moog makes a really nice kit for 18.99) beauty of it is there is no alignment spec changes when replacing them (good design in my opinion other than the quick failure rate). Biggest problem with sloppy steering though is on the 96 and up lh cars they stopped bolting the rack directly to the car and used rubber bushings to hold it in place instead, and they always crap out, those are a pain to replace but still only cost 20.00 for a pair. I have had to replace lower ball joint/control arms a few times due to torn boots and no grease fittings both causing them to dry up and fill with rust and wear them out. I can also vouch for the crappy chrome wheels and the cracking, I have experienced both on 300m's. They are notorious for leaking on the bead. Also its pretty rare for a 300m or lhs to have working heated seats after 100k. Other than that they have been extremely reliable for us. Granted I only purchase them with something already wrong with them for the most part. Note...there are a few rattles and clunks that we ignore on the 240k 300m from the struts and sway bar links but its not hurting anything and doesn't effect ride quality, just turn the radio up :)

[RoadWarrior222]

..there are a few rattles and clunks that we ignore on the 240k 300m from the struts and sway bar links but its not hurting anything and doesn't effect ride quality, just turn the radio up :)

So basically, typical poor old mopar disposable car syndrome, plus tendency to soldier on as a daily with a dozen things wrong with it for years... hence perception of junkliness... over supposed reliable cars which won't move an inch until they're fixed.

[135sohc]

These cars are great in my opinion. I have owned at least 20 lh cars so far. The wifes dd for the last 3 years is a 99 300m with 240k on the clock. Everything is original right down to the ball joints and tie rod ends. The only thing I ever have to replace on lh cars is the cradle bushings (96 & 97 cars use foam) which I replace with my stash of rubber ones from 93-95 cars I have parted out. I also have to replace inner tie rod bushings (moog makes a really nice kit for 18.99) beauty of it is there is no alignment spec changes when replacing them (good design in my opinion other than the quick failure rate). Biggest problem with sloppy steering though is on the 96 and up lh cars they stopped bolting the rack directly to the car and used rubber bushings to hold it in place instead, and they always crap out, those are a pain to replace but still only cost 20.00 for a pair. I have had to replace lower ball joint/control arms a few times due to torn boots and no grease fittings both causing them to dry up and fill with rust and wear them out. I can also vouch for the crappy chrome wheels and the cracking, I have experienced both on 300m's. They are notorious for leaking on the bead. Also its pretty rare for a 300m or lhs to have working heated seats after 100k. Other than that they have been extremely reliable for us. Granted I only purchase them with something already wrong with them for the most part. Note...there are a few rattles and clunks that we ignore on the 240k 300m from the struts and sway bar links but its not hurting anything and doesn't effect ride quality, just turn the radio up :)

Do you know where you can get the steering rack mounting bushings for an 03 ? chrysler doesnt sell them seperate of the rack, cant seem to find an aftermarket listing either ?

[RoadWarrior222]

These look right?

30626

Under steering, rack and pinion bushing, and right at the bottom "Steering rack insulator bushing" at RockAuto.com

[135sohc]

There they be... :)

Thats got to be a recent addition though, cause I know they were not listed there last fall when looking for that exact part. Pricey little suckers though!

[88_pacifica]

I do have to say, even with its faults, it is the nicest car I've ever owned. Of course, I only own Mopars so maybe that is my problem.:confused:

You're not alone. So true... :thumb: :bolt:

[J&H Ryan]

Found the 300m forum to be a small, but neat community. Already have a new infinity amp on standby, some new sail speakers, going to have 360w, 7 disc, 1 cassette, and 11 speakers using stock components, plug and play. Wish it had an aux input, but oh well, 7 year old car... I got the driver side "special" xenon projector lights, but missed out on the passenger side, whoops.

Also, those tails with flash sequentially if I can figure out how they did it exactly w/o being a paid member (unless membership is like $5/yr, in which case, that'll be worth it)

[Vigo]

Wish it had an aux input, but oh well

You can add one to anything.

[J&H Ryan]

You can add one to anything.
Hows that?

[RoadWarrior222]

Well first you take the warranty and have a ceremonial burning party complete with pole dancing and beer pong, then you open the fugger up, and go poking around inside it until you find what looks like the audio stage. ID the amplifier chip and back trace it to get the hang of the layout, then just patch in a socket with your handy electronicals drill.