1986 Dodge Omni GLH Turbo

[abstractism]

http://photobucket.com/abstractism
so I'm still working on this, slowly, I guess. the car's at my grandpa's since he knows tons about mechanic work, and its properly sheltered from rain and the ground. there arent' any current pics of the valve cover yet, I've got a friend thats into art/graphic design and he's helped me out with what stuff to do for painting it. is it worth painting the head while everything's apart still? the valve cover is going to be red with silver on the lines and TURBO, possibly the chrysler part as well if I can get in there. how do you reach that part and not scuff up the rest of the paint?
I don't have any shots of the bottom of the car yet, but its kinda rusty, mostly in the front floor panels and the rear underside and the parts of the frame the rear bumper is secured to. my grandpa knows a guy that does auto body stuff, he'll be able to check it out sometime this week I think. I plan to keep it in the GLH body for as long as it'll last, and move everything to another car after that.
as far as the engine goes, I still don't know what exactly is in it, and CUDA_TUGGER said its got the mopar stage II turbo 14-15psi boost controller instead of the stock 9psi controller. the engine wiring needs a lot of work still too. no battery or tray, the lights wiring has been cut, it looks like there's no air pump either. lots of stuff still needs attention, but I plan to get everything working again, just like original(hopefully).

[Spr-T-23]

welcome and good luck bud

[blk86trbo]

Welcome to the forum! Ever owned an Omni before? Sounds like a fun project...good luck!

[abstractism]

nope, I haven't. so far, I've had an aries, intrepid, neon, two sentra spec v's, and now an omni base model(carbs are lame imo) and this project GLH.

[clarkwhoracing]

I was eyeing that car also - good score and project for you.

[abstractism]

how do I tell what model transmission its got? also, are there differences in the crankshaft in the turbo I and turbo II? I'm not too knowledgeable on engine internals and the related work required. but I'm mechanically inclined, so I've got a basic understanding of how things work.

[abstractism]

finally got some pics of the valve cover. we're filing, we gotta touch up in some spots, but so far its pretty nice imo
http://s1104.photobucket.com/albums/h332/abstractism/valve%20cover%20WIP/

[cordes]

how do I tell what model transmission its got? also, are there differences in the crankshaft in the turbo I and turbo II? I'm not too knowledgeable on engine internals and the related work required. but I'm mechanically inclined, so I've got a basic understanding of how things work.

There should be a tag on the trans. It should be a 525 trans so the tag should be on the diff cover covered in 25+ years of gunk. The TII crank is forged.

[shackwrrr]

how do I tell what model transmission its got? also, are there differences in the crankshaft in the turbo I and turbo II? I'm not too knowledgeable on engine internals and the related work required. but I'm mechanically inclined, so I've got a basic understanding of how things work.

I pulled the oil pan on that TII engine and it doesn't have the forged crank anymore :(. Still has the 'tona though. The 555 would be a very nice upgrade from the 525, along with the Super 60 and 2 piece intake.

[abstractism]

if the transmission is in good condition, what exactly is the a525's weakness? I don't plan on taking this GLH to the dragstrip. would it be able to withstand decent acceleration or is it just junk all around?

[cordes]

if the transmission is in good condition, what exactly is the a525's weakness? I don't plan on taking this GLH to the dragstrip. would it be able to withstand decent acceleration or is it just junk all around?

the diff area of the case is very weak. The actual gear set itself is said to be somewhat fragile, but I think that's almost more a function of the case flexing than anything else.

How much power are you looking to make? How fast do you want to go?

[abstractism]

probably not more than 200hp, considering its going to be a daily driver. I just want to be able to go fast if need be, which might not be too often in normal traffic.

[cordes]

The 525 should have a decent shot at living if you don't get great traction out of the hole. A chrome moly plate may be a good idea though. At that point you're half way or more to buying a trans which can still use the stock shift rods and live at 200HP all day long.

[abstractism]

well, first off I need it running stock 143ish. I'm not going to say I'll never drag race, but its highly highly extremely unlikely that I ever will. I want it to be a fun little car to drive but I'm not looking to push it more than turbo II. I'd like the forged crank, the intercooler, and the a568, but thats not just yet.

the 525 should be strong enough to handle traffic stuff, even screwing around in traffic, right? I don't make a habit of beating up my wheels. the last car I had was an 2008 sentra spec v, and it was a solid driving experience(so was my 2003 spec v). I'd like to have that again. is the 525 up to that kind of thing, or do I need to be easy on acceleration so I don't screw up the gears?

---------- Post added at 11:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:40 PM ----------

also, what do you mean by moly plate? I'm new to the scene here.

---------- Post added at 11:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:41 PM ----------

also, these days I usually drive like an old man, because saving money on gas is a priority.

[cordes]

It sounds like you will be fine with the 525.

The moly plate is what helps to keep the bearings in place at the end of the trans. The weak case allows for some distortion as the input shaft tries to ride up the intermediate shaft. That can cause the gears to separate and strip in spectacular fashion.

From a roll or even a normal take off you're fine to go all out at your power levels. The real problems come when dumping the clutch and actually getting traction from a light or at the track. All the way up to around 200Hp you should be good though.

[abstractism]

thanks, I had heard that the 525 was weak, I just didn't have an idea of how suitable it was for normal driving stuff.

[abstractism]

just checking in again, we got the cylinder head off, its currently at a machine shop. grandpa says the pistons and cylinders look to be in good shape, save for a tiny tiny bit of rust in the top interior of one or two cylinders. the camshaft had a bit ground off the lifters(?) so it'll be scrapped, unfortunately. there didn't seem to be any signs of water/coolant getting to the head(no residue) so I'm a bit wary about it being usable. still, the machine shop should be able to give the final word. planning to get a roller cam and rollers from 89aries, and hopefully a crapton of spare dodge parts from a guy on craigslist tomorrow.
I can't wait to get this on the road! :D

[abstractism]

well, I got the drivers seat out of the car, next is the passenger seat. the center console should be last to come out. I just need the carpet out of the way so we can fix the floor panels. those bolts were a pain to remove, though. do I really need to use the proprietary bolts to replace them?
tomorrow, we're going to go check out and probably buy all that stuff from the craigslist seller. it should be fun.
oh, I've got a question for you guys. where is the ECU located in the GLHT? is it the logic module? or is there something else I'm not finding?

[abstractism]

change of plans. that engine from the craigslist seller is really clean and only has about 1k miles on it. he said it was from a turbo Z, not dragraced. I'll probably be putting my turbo on that and swapping the engine outright. all the engine parts I've already got are probably just going to be cleaned up and stored for spares. eventually I'll get to building it up again but I want this GLH on the road. floor panels are next then, so getting the seats, console, and carpet out of there is next on my list.
I got 2 pizza rims with tires and 2 without, an intake manifold, and 2 GLHS ECUs. friday I should get the engine, maybe a radiator, the mopar camshaft, and a mopar 2.2/2.5 book. maybe other stuff that he finds around his garage.
what awesome luck!

[abstractism]

today I got the door vinyl removed from both doors. I'm puzzled why the front door interior on my GLH is faded and scuffed all to hell. the rear doors are almost perfect. the drivers side door is the one needing the most attention. how do I remove the exterior handle's arm from the door mechanism? there has to be some kind of a trick to that. also, I have the window to fix, as it needs pulled back as I roll it up.

oh, I found an 8-ball shift knob underneath the passenger seat. score!

[abstractism]

I got the interior out, finally. no pics yet, I've taken some, but they're on my iphone and I can't get em online til I get some wi-fi somewhere. the seats are out, the carpet and insulation is out, the backseat seat is out, but the back is still there. it looks like its unbolted with an allen wrench, but also looks like torx.

anyone know where I can get the ducting for the two vents on the center console? I was missing that since I got the car, I think. I might take apart the seats and replace the foam/padding and repair/replace the cloth for it too.

[5sp. mini]

sounds like fun , were in ohio are you, going t2 swap manifold and clocking the turbo. lm is on the right front kick panel.

[abstractism]

NE Ohio, in stark county. I've got a stage II mopar LM, according to the seller. how do I check for sure what it is? can I tell by the serial number? I'd still need an intercooler to get to an unofficial turbo II, unless there's other things involved.
I'm planning on doing an engine swap. I got a lot of good parts and a donor engine(plus clutch and transmission) from a craigslist seller around here. not exactly sure whats inside it but the guy says its from a daytona Z, the turbo was smoking so there's none on the engine. there's about 1k miles on it.
that craigslist seller said 2nd gear grinds. if it still does, do you think it could be an issue with the shift linkage being wrong instead of something screwed up with the transmission itself?

[5sp. mini]

might be in side. i,m not a real trans guy. does it shift fine. i to are in stark what town like to take a look at your new ride

[abstractism]

I live in canton, but the car's in salem til I can get it running. still need to get the old engine out and the new engine in, though. I'm interested in getting that DEI T3 insulation jacket for the turbo before I put the new engine in...would the starter still need to be insulated if I get this (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010141/) from summit racing?

[5sp. mini]

what is that for? i think it,s beter to like to heat out to help cooling .

[shackwrrr]

what is that for? i think it,s beter to like to heat out to help cooling .

keeps the heat in the turbine housing, spools faster and lowers underhood temp.

I wouldn't worry about the starter shield if you had that. Ive been under the hood of cars with those and you can lay your hand right on it while its running.

[abstractism]

http://s1104.photobucket.com/albums/h332/abstractism/18Jun2011%20progress/
pics of the GLH's nasty floor panels, if anyone was interested.

[shackwrrr]

http://s1104.photobucket.com/albums/h332/abstractism/18Jun2011%20progress/
pics of the GLH's nasty floor panels, if anyone was interested.

what floor panel?

[abstractism]

the one in the back.

[shackwrrr]

Im sure if you poked enough that one would disintegrate too lol

[cordes]

http://s1104.photobucket.com/albums/h332/abstractism/18Jun2011%20progress/
pics of the GLH's nasty floor panels, if anyone was interested.

on the up side, I've seen way worse.

[abstractism]

ugh. been trying to get the axles out, and someone welded one of the camber bolts. who the hell does that?

[cordes]

That's the first I've heard of that.

[abstractism]

we got that other axle out, but the rest of it came out too. the piece that has the flexing joint on it is stuck on the axle. anyone got any tips for removing the axle from that?

both of the axles need replaced anyway. the boots on both of them are ripped.

also, the exhaust manifold is removed from the hot side of the turbo. doesn't look like there's any shaft play in it. finally, some good news.

[cordes]

in all reality you should just go with a long pass side axle.

If you do want to get the axle out of the intermediate shaft you could probably drill and tap the shaft near the universal joint and put a zirk in there. use a grease gun to pressurize the shaft and it should pop the axle right out. I've done it with great success.

[abstractism]

I'm kinda losing steam here. is it even worth it to swap an engine into this?
I can't even understand how this could be fixed without spending lods of emone. somebody help me out here.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h332/abstractism/18Jun2011%20progress/frame4.jpg

[rx2mazda]

that car needs a lot of body work. i personally wouldnt bother but some would. if you can do the work yourself than it might be worth it, if you have to pay someone to do it then it wouldnt be. not many shops would even take on a project like that. good luck!

[zin]

Find another L body with good floors and either swap all the GHL parts (easiest) , or cut out those floorboards and weld them into yours, after you cut away all of the cancer.

Since our cars aren't likely to become high dollar collector cars, I wouldn't worry about saving this chassis number and try to find a grandma Omni or Horizon to base your build on.

But, if your goal is to learn, what you have now will certainly provide you with many opportunities to gain experience!

Anyway you go, best of luck, and we will do our best to help you out.

Mike

[cordes]

You probably could find a solid GLH for less than the cost of fixing that yourself. On the other hand, that isn't too bad as far as rust goes with L body cars. It doesn't look like it goes up the strut tower too much.

[abstractism]

I found a red GLHT on columbus' craigslist. needs work and wants to sell it for $1500. is he asking too much?
http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/2464260629.html
I'm thinking its worth half that even if its got a rust free frame and no knocking.

[cordes]

I bet that thing is all rusty underneath too. He is asking too much IMO. Prices have started to climb on these, but if you're willing to travel 1,500 should get you a darn nice example of a rust free body.

[sy2206]

I found a red GLHT on columbus' craigslist. needs work and wants to sell it for $1500. is he asking too much?
http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/2464260629.html
I'm thinking its worth half that even if its got a rust free frame and no knocking.


I bet that thing is all rusty underneath too. He is asking too much IMO. Prices have started to climb on these, but if you're willing to travel 1,500 should get you a darn nice example of a rust free body.

WHAT???

I would agree, that car probably does have some rust. But even if it needs a couple little things, I don't think $1500 is out of line at all. If it's rust free, I would say it's worth $2k-2500. If you really go look for a rust free GLH, you will find they are tough to come by.

Abstractism, I know you're new to the site, and new to these cars in general, but if you think the going rate for a rust free GLH that runs good is $750, you've got a lot to learn. Don't take this the wrong way, but the car you bought from Steve, is a parts car. I'm not sure what you paid for it, but you'll have a bunch of time and money into fixing the rust. Then you'll spend more money just getting it running. And once it's running, it'll need some sort of brake work and/or possibly struts, tires, etc. I know that car has been apart and off the road for a while. That being said, it's going to take a little more then "splash some gas in it and fire it up", and that's all provided you got the car complete. I know Steve said he wanted to keep a bunch of things off the car. Basically, by the time you have it all up and running, you couldn't have just bought one like that Red one, fixed up a couple little things, and you've got a decent car.

I think the basement price for a nice solid rust free GLHT is around that $2k-2500 range. Obviously, nice paint, low miles, turn-key, tasteful mods, etc will all make the value go up from there... Nice rust free Omni's are getting hard to find.

[cordes]

WHAT???

I would agree, that car probably does have some rust. But even if it needs a couple little things, I don't think $1500 is out of line at all. If it's rust free, I would say it's worth $2k-2500. If you really go look for a rust free GLH, you will find they are tough to come by.

Abstractism, I know you're new to the site, and new to these cars in general, but if you think the going rate for a rust free GLH that runs good is $750, you've got a lot to learn. Don't take this the wrong way, but the car you bought from Steve, is a parts car. I'm not sure what you paid for it, but you'll have a bunch of time and money into fixing the rust. Then you'll spend more money just getting it running. And once it's running, it'll need some sort of brake work and/or possibly struts, tires, etc. I know that car has been apart and off the road for a while. That being said, it's going to take a little more then "splash some gas in it and fire it up", and that's all provided you got the car complete. I know Steve said he wanted to keep a bunch of things off the car. Basically, by the time you have it all up and running, you couldn't have just bought one like that Red one, fixed up a couple little things, and you've got a decent car.

I think the basement price for a nice solid rust free GLHT is around that $2k-2500 range. Obviously, nice paint, low miles, turn-key, tasteful mods, etc will all make the value go up from there... Nice rust free Omni's are getting hard to find.

$1500 isn't out of line depending on how good or bad those horrible pics make the car look. For $2500 I would expect a well running solid car with decent paint.

[zin]

Don't waste money buying another GLHt.

Not when you have one as a donor. You will have a much easier time finding a well preserved plain ol Omni or Horizon that is rust free to swap your current GLH's special pieces onto.

One of these can often be had for much less than a GLH, but is the same car structurally. Basically you would be doing what Shelby did with the "S" cars.

You could keep working on the mechanical stuff, getting it running well while looking and waiting for the right deal on the right car, maybe even restore some of the body or interior in preparation for the swap.

As you can see there are a number of up sides to going this route, really, the only down side is maybe the time you may have to wait to find the right donor car and the extra space needed for the time you're swapping parts.

Well, that's my. 02 anyway. Best of luck any way you decide to go!

Mike

[abstractism]

holy crap, JC whitney says these should fit. has anyone else who has done welding on these L-body cars used panels like this? the two full panels and a third panel for spare metal. think that would work?
http://www.jcwhitney.com/floor-repair-panels-for-cars/p2021643.jcwx?filterid=c15314d434y1986j1

[zin]

Well, a good friend of mine used to say : "If you have a cutting torch and a welder, you can do anything!".

That said, they are probably more trouble than they are worth. Being generic they won't match any existing bolt holes etc.

But if that's all you can get...

Mike

[PunKid]

Honestly I think the amount of rust that car has its past saving. Have you checked the front and rear sub frame for rust, also pull the Side skirts off to check the rockers. The last place is the toe board seam against the inner wheel well. I have a parts car just about as rusty as your and deemed it beyond repair.

The other problem like others have said is it will also need all new brakes, tires, brake lines, fuel lines just to get running and road worthy.

I bought a semi rusty red GLH-T with minor exterior damage and a boat load of new parts (tires, struts, brakes, starter, clutch) for 1500 bucks. I was looking just for a rust free Horizon or Omni but this one was a good deal with all the new parts. Finding a rust free anything this far north is next to impossible.

[abstractism]

well, its been slow, but this project seems like there's 'not gonna work' every step of the way. the engine I'm about to swap in is from a daytona turbo Z which is apparently MFI and not throttle body injection. do I need a new computer and wiring harness? how can I make this work?

[shackwrrr]

Hey check out lima ohio craigslist, 2 GLH's that a guy is parting out. Bodies might be in better shape.


Your omni should be MPFI just the injectors are on the bottom of the intake, the throttle body is before the turbo and has no injector. The turbo Z depending on the year should have either the same engine or a later blow through setup where the throttle body is on the intake. Could you show some pictures?

[abstractism]

yeah, standby. I took some pics with the iphone before I left.

also, there was piping that connected the exhaust side with the intake side. what is that? and isn't there something else I can replace it with? its a little bent up and somewhat difficult to get screwed back into one side.

oh! for the engine, is the empty 3rd spot in the intake manifold a vacuum distribution block? if so, could I get this (http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/anodized-aluminum-vacuum-blocks-p-269.html) to replace it?

here's the pics of the turbo and engine.
http://s1104.photobucket.com/albums/h332/abstractism/2Aug11/

[zin]

yeah, standby. I took some pics with the iphone before I left.

also, there was piping that connected the exhaust side with the intake side. what is that? and isn't there something else I can replace it with? its a little bent up and somewhat difficult to get screwed back into one side.

oh! for the engine, is the empty 3rd spot in the intake manifold a vacuum distribution block? if so, could I get this (http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/anodized-aluminum-vacuum-blocks-p-269.html) to replace it?

That hard line from the exhaust side to the intake is for the EGR valve. You'd probably be better off if you can re-install it, though you will want to wire wheel the threads and then coat them with some hi-temp anti seize to aid re-installing it, and allow you to remove it without explosives latter if you wish to remove it or replace it. They get pretty oxidized from all the heat, etc

Yes, that is the vacuum port that supplies the vacuum signal to the fuel pressure regulator and the control solenoids on the passenger side wheel well/fender, you'll need something to make the connections and that block is as good as anything!

Mike

[abstractism]

heh, well by difficult I mean really really difficult but not impossible. the pipe that was on there had to be torched before we could wrench it off, and it kind of bent up a little. is it really necessary? will it affect actual performance at all?

also, we can't use the old plastic one because it was broken when we got it. today we removed the bottom threading piece. would that vacuum block from TU be worthwhile?

[zin]

heh, well by difficult I mean really really difficult but not impossible. the pipe that was on there had to be torched before we could wrench it off, and it kind of bent up a little. is it really necessary? will it affect actual performance at all?

also, we can't use the old plastic one because it was broken when we got it. today we removed the bottom threading piece. would that vacuum block from TU be worthwhile?

The vacuum block would do very well, you have some options with it... You could put 1/8MPT X whatever tubing size compression fitting, or use the hose nipples that come with it and just run rubber hose, or to go over the moon with it, you could do it all in aircraft style hard lines!

As for the EGR, it does cost some efficiency by way of the fact it puts exhaust gas into the intake stream, but since it is only at cruise, its not really a big deal; but what could be a big deal is that the computer often will try to make up for the loss caused by a functioning EGR valve, by jockeying around the timing (normally advancing a large amount), etc, often advancing the timing when the valve is supposed to be engaged, so you might be in perpetual knock retard, which is normally even worse for power and efficiency. So, for the moment I'd keep it all factory correct until it is know to be in perfect running order, and so the mods I do from here can be blamed for any deviation from "normal".

Mike

[abstractism]

well we got the EGR valve piping back on. that shouldn't be an issue anymore. what should I do about the plug on the engine? I can't find another plug like that in the engine bay, do I need a computer & wiring harness for a daytona turbo?

if I did that, would I be able to use cruise control? do all of these computers handle cruise control or only some of them? its a feature I would miss if I were to lose it.

[shackwrrr]

well we got the EGR valve piping back on. that shouldn't be an issue anymore. what should I do about the plug on the engine? I can't find another plug like that in the engine bay, do I need a computer & wiring harness for a daytona turbo?

if I did that, would I be able to use cruise control? do all of these computers handle cruise control or only some of them? its a feature I would miss if I were to lose it.

Did you ever get those pics uploaded?

[abstractism]

yeah, they're here (http://s1104.photobucket.com/albums/h332/abstractism/2Aug11/).

[shackwrrr]

That connector in your hand is the injector harness. Do you have pics of the old head/intake or is it not there? Im not sure if the connector changed from the daytona to the omni but it might have.

---------- Post added at 11:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:51 AM ----------

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e357/shackwrrr/th_enginebefore-1.jpg (http://s43.photobucket.com/albums/e357/shackwrrr/?action=view&current=enginebefore-1.jpg)

I looked back and found an old engine bay shot. The red is the connector that plugs into. Looks the same

[zin]

Cruise would require both a computer that has the needed electronics and the hardware and wiring in the car.

I'm not sure how to tell if a given computer is capable of cruise if its part number isn't readable, but I would bet one of our members could by reading the calibration.

Mike

[abstractism]

just got the info from the computer's label.

P4532327
39842
Mopar logo on the label.

[zin]

There is a list around if you search for it, sorry I don't have the direct link.

You have the right connections, they are just different styles, you can just find another matching connector and swap the wires over, or even replace it altogether with a Packard /GM style connector. Not a big deal.

If you need it, I'm sure you can obtain a wiring diagram here or on-line.

Mike

[cordes]

Cruise would require both a computer that has the needed electronics and the hardware and wiring in the car.

I'm not sure how to tell if a given computer is capable of cruise if its part number isn't readable, but I would bet one of our members could by reading the calibration.

Mike

If I'm not mistaken the pre 87' stuff doesn't run off the LM. It's all in that big mechanical mechanical servo.

[abstractism]

from http://www.planetb.net/shelby/ecm.php3
P4529871 MP 86 2.2 Turbo I old=P4349818 #OC=P4532327
what do these mean? also, I've got 2 other computers that came with the new engine and rims and stuff. I'll go get those numbers.

also, shackwrrr: the connector you mentioned is the L-shaped connector. they both do the same thing, right? there should be a way to connect these two with a different plug, then.

[cordes]

from http://www.planetb.net/shelby/ecm.php3
P4529871 MP 86 2.2 Turbo I old=P4349818 #OC=P4532327
what do these mean? also, I've got 2 other computers that came with the new engine and rims and stuff. I'll go get those numbers.

also, shackwrrr: the connector you mentioned is the L-shaped connector. they both do the same thing, right? there should be a way to connect these two with a different plug, then.

It's an 86' Mopar Performance computer for a TI log car.

[abstractism]

alright, here we go. first one is part number 5227533, supplier 7902. there's a black plastic addon screwed to it with a serial of 5227324 with what appears to be a vacuum connector on it.

the other one I can't find any serial number, and it doesn't have the vacuum connector addon the first one has.

both have the large red/blue ports on them though. I'm gonna go check and see if the mopar one has the addon piece.

[cordes]

The black piece with the port on it is the MAP sensor. They were mounted to the LM until 87' for the non-L bodys and through 87' for the Ls.

[abstractism]

ah, yeah. the mopar one has that map sensor too then. so does the map sensor connect to the computer and the computer connects to the gauge on the dash?
how could I find out what features are available on this mopar computer?

[cordes]

The map has three wires on it with a connector which connects to the board in the LM. The vac line goes to the map sensor from under the hood. I wouldn't tee off of that line for a boost gauge.

IIRC the MP LM should have about 4* of extra timing across the board, revised fan schedule, and it will probably run richer. Of course you'll get more boost out of it too. IIRC it comes on sooner and gives you 10 or so lbs. of boost vs. 7.

[abstractism]

okay, so the already-installed mopar computer is the best of what I have. is there any real difference between the L-shaped plug and the one on the engine? surely there's got to be a way for me to adapt them to fit together.

[cordes]

okay, so the already-installed mopar computer is the best of what I have. is there any real difference between the L-shaped plug and the one on the engine? surely there's got to be a way for me to adapt them to fit together.

Are you talking about the injector harness again? It's just the type of connector used. If you the wiring diagram for both it should be easy to fix. You could either get the proper connector from the JY and use that (it's probably using the same spade terminals?) or use a weather pack one like Mike said.

[abstractism]

well guys, I haven't got any work done on this since last update. I'm moving across ohio to start classes at UNOH. also, I'm not borrowing my grandpa's 85 new yorker. instead, I've got an 84 fifth avenue that he gave me. not exactly close to a turbo 4cylinder, but beggars can't be choosers. any of you guys know of any way I could get the GLH across the state in a few months so I can work on it while I take classes?

[black86glhs]

Tow it.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk

[shackwrrr]

an 84 fifth avenue has plenty of power to tow an omni. But I will say, there aren't many places to work on something up there. If you live in the dorms, its very strict that you have 1 car only and no extensive work in the parking lot. If you find an apartment, they frown upon working in the parking lot. Your best bet is to come up, make some friends and rent a house with a garage. If I was still up there I would help you out.

[abstractism]

I think tomorrow we're gonna work on getting the engine back in. I had an idea a week or two ago, about the turbo. there's piping between the intake and exhaust sides, which I'm assuming is to vent excess pressure into the exhaust...wouldn't it be simpler to remove that pipe and use a BOV?

[shackwrrr]

I think tomorrow we're gonna work on getting the engine back in. I had an idea a week or two ago, about the turbo. there's piping between the intake and exhaust sides, which I'm assuming is to vent excess pressure into the exhaust...wouldn't it be simpler to remove that pipe and use a BOV?

Thats the EGR, You can remove it but a BOV doesn't do the same thing. You can't run a BOV on a T1 engine as the turbo is after the throttle body.

[zin]

Not only can't you, you don't need to. The BOV is only there to protect the turbo from excessive over-pressure caused by the sudden closing of the throttle, which in a blow-through set-up, means all that air the turbo was moving has no where to go, and will damage the compressor wheel over time, the BOV fixes that issue by giving the air someplace to go. In a TI log car, the turbo is always seeing "vacuum", all the air that gets to/past the throttle body goes into the engine. If you chop the throttle closed, that just means a higher vacuum between the compressor inlet and the throttle body, no harm, no foul!

Stockers focus on being quite as the average Benz driver doesn't want to hear the sound of air escaping, but a lot of us enjoy the mechanical sounds, which leads to the production of RFL blow-offs, designed to be loud! To each their own...

Mike

PS Unless you are going to be re-programing the computer or have a major problem with the EGR, I'd advise retaining it as removing it can cause issues, not the least of which is breaking off in the casting during the attempted removal, resulting in the decommissioning of an otherwise fun to drive car!

[abstractism]

well, the last guy I asked to try and help as a last resort, is being unreliable again.
blah, I want to do it myself already. I'm fine with bungling through it but I couldn't at UNO because all my classes had time limits.

the EGR is on there already, but I want to put the turbo back on there before the new engine goes in. looks like there's 2 oil lines in the central part of the turbo, one is larger which gets a gasket, and the other is smaller and has a threaded end and I'm assuming connects to a similarly sized line which is also threaded on the end. I'll need an exhaust gasket for the squared exhaust manifold to the exhaust side of the turbo, and then there's a vacuum line or two between the engine and the turbo (actuator? controls?)that need to be reconnected.

does the circular exhaust manifold need a gasket there, or is it okay with metal/metal connection?

edit: also, thanks for the informative post, zin. its discouraging sometimes to know some things in some areas but go full derp like myself when I still don't have any experience working on this stuff.

[cordes]

Wow, where to start.


The oil line coming off the bottom of the turbo is the larger of the two. It is the drain. The smaller one is 1/8th" NPT and is the feed. It has a line hooked up to it coming from the front of the block where there is the oil distribution deal. It is 1/8th" NPT too.

You don't need a gasket for the turbo to manifold connection. If you really want to, you can smear a little bit of grease on there. It will burn off and form a carbon seal.

You only need the stock doughnut on the down pipe to seal the outlet of the turbo.

There should be manifold vacuum coming to the can (which is the waste gate actuator) on the turbo. If you check your vac diagram you'll see how it all goes together on the stock form.

[abstractism]

http://i.imgur.com/tSNCS.jpg
hey, is there supposed to be anything that connects to the exhaust turbine? whats the point of that at the bottom? I've got a heatshield for the exhaust side of the turbo, but that one part prevents the shield from fitting over the turbine properly.
if nothing is meant to be used there, would it be possible to remove it somehow?

[black86glhs]

If your talking about the pipe, that is the oil return. If you mean the eyelet under the turbine housing, that is where the support bracket bolts to.

[abstractism]

crap, so this was a waste of money to get?
kinda wish I'd known that sooner...I think we ordered it last year. :\
http://www.designengineering.com/category/catalog/component-specific-productst/t4-titanium-turbo-shield-kit

[cordes]

You'll have the fanciest heat blanket on a turbo this side of the Mississippi.

[shackwrrr]

I say its a good idea with the t1. Most including myself don't run a support bracket so I say cut it off and run the blanket.

[abstractism]

so I'm done with this project, and I'm trying to clear the decks. can anyone help me price out all this stuff? its all intact, minus the floor panels(and carpet and front seats) and I didn't get the engine back in it yet either.
all the glass is good
all the doors are good
the interior is good
I have 2 sets of pizza rims in good condition
there's 2 engines, minus turbos
there's 1 turbo, not on an engine
there's a 5spd transmission or two around
there's a torque converter with a higher stall

please help me out, guys. I've been taking up space in my grandpa's garages and I'm trying to get everything gone.

[85boostbox]

So you want to sell it?

[abstractism]

yeah. anyone know what all the parts and stuff are worth?