3 inch exhausth

[Mathew]

hi guys i have a dodge shelby csx 2.2 turbo garrett i wanna put a 3 inch exhaust from turbosunleashed do i have to do some mods


thanks :nod:

[GLHNSLHT2]

I think TU has an adapter to have their 3" downpipe fit on the smaller 2.25" SV. If not then you'll have to find a 2.5" swingvalve or larger for your turbo. Also when you get the kit, Put the pipes on in 1,3,2 order. You'll then have to make 1 cut. If you put them on in 1,2,3 order like the instructions say you'll have to cut, weld, rotate, re-weld etc. You'll have to probably have to bend the brake line bracket, loosen the gas tank straps a bit and push it over some, and bend the tab on the gas tank on the exhaust side as well. No big deal but it's not going to just fit.

[BadAssPerformance]

I think TU has an adapter to have their 3" downpipe fit on the smaller 2.25" SV. If not then you'll have to find a 2.5" swingvalve or larger for your turbo. Also when you get the kit, Put the pipes on in 1,3,2 order. You'll then have to make 1 cut. If you put them on in 1,2,3 order like the instructions say you'll have to cut, weld, rotate, re-weld etc. You'll have to probably have to bend the brake line bracket, loosen the gas tank straps a bit and push it over some, and bend the tab on the gas tank on the exhaust side as well. No big deal but it's not going to just fit.

Interesting... got pics?

[Chris W]

I think TU has an adapter to have their 3" downpipe fit on the smaller 2.25" SV. If not then you'll have to find a 2.5" swingvalve or larger for your turbo. Also when you get the kit, Put the pipes on in 1,3,2 order. You'll then have to make 1 cut. If you put them on in 1,2,3 order like the instructions say you'll have to cut, weld, rotate, re-weld etc. You'll have to probably have to bend the brake line bracket, loosen the gas tank straps a bit and push it over some, and bend the tab on the gas tank on the exhaust side as well. No big deal but it's not going to just fit.

We offer an adapter to connect our 3" swingvalve to a 2.5 or 2.25 downpipe, not the other way around though.

In regard to the cat back exhaust system, we have never included installation instructions with our kits before. There are a couple of threads we direct people to if they are having difficulties. So, I am not sure if you are confusing our kit with someone else's.

Chris-TU

[GLHNSLHT2]

Interesting... got pics?

Yep, Here's the pipe Chris recommends go over the axle. http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/v/Members+Rides/Jay+Jochec/87+New+Yorker/3+inch+exhaust/CIMG0413.JPG.html

I had to add an 8" section and re-clock the bend on the right from where it was when it was delievered. This is the 1st TU kit I installed and was just following what I was told over the phone from Chris.

Here it is installed in the car http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/v/Members+Rides/Jay+Jochec/87+New+Yorker/3+inch+exhaust/100_1255.jpg.html I had to take it back out after this and reclock the upper bend some more so that pipe #3 doesn't sit like this http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/v/Members+Rides/Jay+Jochec/87+New+Yorker/3+inch+exhaust/100_1256.jpg.html

After reclocking and buying a Magnaflow muffler from TU The pipe now points straight out the back. http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/v/Members+Rides/Jay+Jochec/87+New+Yorker/3+inch+exhaust/0408101925b.jpg.html

I don't have pics of the car we installed the pipes in the 1,3,2 order. it was a small cut off the end of pipe #3 just because it was slightly too long. I can get some if it's a must have thing. we just didn't take any as it was late and we wanted to get the car out of the shop so I could get my car back in to cut, reclock, and reweld that upper bend.



In regard to the cat back exhaust system, we have never included installation instructions with our kits before. There are a couple of threads we direct people to if they are having difficulties. So, I am not sure if you are confusing our kit with someone else's.

Chris-TU


Sorry there were no written "instructions" Just the instructions I got from you over the phone both times I've put TU systems on cars. On the 2nd system after talking to you while we were installing it we decided to try it in 1,3,2 order and it works very well.

FYI FWD's kit doesn't come with written instructions either.

I'm not confusing what kit's I've installed on cars. I have installed 2 TU 3" systems, 1 FWDP 2.5" system which went on like butter, and I have a FWDP 3" system somewhat hanging underneath my hardtop daytona just to see if the pipes fit but it's not put together and I need to get the car assembled farther before I can even think about welding it.

[Chris W]

Yep, Here's the pipe Chris recommends go over the axle. http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/v/Members+Rides/Jay+Jochec/87+New+Yorker/3+inch+exhaust/CIMG0413.JPG.html

I had to add an 8" section and re-clock the bend on the right from where it was when it was delievered. This is the 1st TU kit I installed and was just following what I was told over the phone from Chris.

Here it is installed in the car http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/v/Members+Rides/Jay+Jochec/87+New+Yorker/3+inch+exhaust/100_1255.jpg.html I had to take it back out after this and reclock the upper bend some more so that pipe #3 doesn't sit like this http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/v/Members+Rides/Jay+Jochec/87+New+Yorker/3+inch+exhaust/100_1256.jpg.html

After reclocking and buying a Magnaflow muffler from TU The pipe now points straight out the back. http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/v/Members+Rides/Jay+Jochec/87+New+Yorker/3+inch+exhaust/0408101925b.jpg.html

I don't have pics of the car we installed the pipes in the 1,3,2 order. it was a small cut off the end of pipe #3 just because it was slightly too long. I can get some if it's a must have thing. we just didn't take any as it was late and we wanted to get the car out of the shop so I could get my car back in to cut, reclock, and reweld that upper bend.




Sorry there were no written "instructions" Just the instructions I got from you over the phone both times I've put TU systems on cars. On the 2nd system after talking to you while we were installing it we decided to try it in 1,3,2 order and it works very well.

FYI FWD's kit doesn't come with written instructions either.

I'm not confusing what kit's I've installed on cars. I have installed 2 TU 3" systems, 1 FWDP 2.5" system which went on like butter, and I have a FWDP 3" system somewhat hanging underneath my hardtop daytona just to see if the pipes fit but it's not put together and I need to get the car assembled farther before I can even think about welding it.

In the links you provided I noticed that the exhaust system was going into a New Yorker. When these kits were first designed they were never intended for that application. I remember discussing this with you when you called. I also remember providing you with the installation mods for a LeBaron which I thought might help. I attached a photo which I thought I had sent you after our discussion. Recommended mods were to install the pipe A-B-D-C. Glad to see that it will fit the NewYorker with only minor modifications. The OP is seeking advice on a CSX install though.

A 2.5" system should go in like butter. Fitment challenges usually become an issue when trying to squeeze in 3" pipes.

Chris-TU

[Mathew]

garrett turbos use a 2.5 swing valve right

[BadAssPerformance]

garrett turbos use a 2.5 swing valve right

From the factory, only 2.5" SV on '89's... the '88 and older garrett cars had 2.25" SV's

[GLHNSLHT2]

In the links you provided I noticed that the exhaust system was going into a New Yorker. When these kits were first designed they were never intended for that application. I remember discussing this with you when you called. I also remember providing you with the installation mods for a LeBaron which I thought might help. I attached a photo which I thought I had sent you after our discussion. Recommended mods were to install the pipe A-B-D-C. Glad to see that it will fit the NewYorker with only minor modifications. The OP is seeking advice on a CSX install though.

A 2.5" system should go in like butter. Fitment challenges usually become an issue when trying to squeeze in 3" pipes.

Chris-TU

1st, I never got that pic or any email from you about it.

2nd, ABDC from the tail of the car forward to the d'pipe?? :confused:

From our discussions over the phone I gathered that they all installed from this pipe http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/v/Members+Rides/Jay+Jochec/87+New+Yorker/3+inch+exhaust/CIMG0410.JPG.html that get's you from the middle of the car to the side of the gas tank in D C B A order to get you to the back of the car.

I had to add an 8" section between D and C to get me up high enough to clear the panhard bar bracing, and put the pipe in that little notch on the cross brace for the frame you can see here: http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/v/Members+Rides/Jay+Jochec/87+New+Yorker/3+inch+exhaust/100_1255.jpg.html just to the left of the clamp bolts. Then I had to reclock that bend at the top of pipe D, C, so the exhaust pointed straight out the back instead of at an angle.

I'm not the only one to have added length to the CD pipe. There was another guy on TD or TM who added the same legnth to get it to fit. I don't remember who or what the thread was called so I can't link to it but I did post a pic in it and asked some questions to him. We would of had to add the same length of pipe on the 2nd install I did but we changed things and I covered that below.

My magnaflow is mounted on pipe B, A. The A side sticks out the back of the car.

I also have to have the exhaust pretty much hard mounted with those parts store swivel hangers with a small piece of rubber on them to keep it from banging on the spring or the gas tank. This vibrated the snot out of the car so I put a flex coupler (also purchased from TU) at the downpipe under the car.

As far as it being on a New Yorker, other than having to extend the pipe length that goes where the cat is it's exactly the same as my 87 ShelbyZ and every other kbased TD from 84-94 I've been under. I could take this system off and bolt it right to any other TD I have access to after modifying the length where the cat goes.

Chris, don't think I'm bashing your product please. It works, it's nice to have 3" pipe and your prices are hard to beat. I'm just trying to help people install it the best way.

Now on to where I changed up installing different than what I thought Chris and I had discussed and what I assumed how he was telling everyone else to discuss it.

It was installed on a Shadow, so it applies to the original poster looking to install it on his CSX. Once again from the pipe that gets you to the side of the gas tank (two 90 degree bends) in B A C D order. This get's you up over the panhard bar brace and points the exhaust to the back of the car. It also goes right up past the spring and gas tank (still need to bend the tab on the gas tank and move a brake line bracket a bit) One cut to the A side (about 6" off) and C lines right up. I guess I'll have to go get some pictures. I just don't want to lay in the yard the car is parked in right now.

[Chris W]

I may have asked you to email me so I could respond with the pics. Never the less, the pic is now in my post above for everyone's reference. ABDC or CDBA? Not sure which order it goes in but it will be obvious once you place the pipes in the car which way fits better. The important point was to cut the pipes as you see them in the photo.

Here's pics of an install on an 85 Chrysler T&C.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?40225-My-parents-85-Chrysler-T-amp-C-turbo-wagon-build&p=603433&viewfull=1#post603433

As you mentioned L-Body and P/G body kits can be made to fit a few other models like the NYr, LeBaron/TC Masi and Chrysler T&C, but, some mods might be necessary. AJ mentioned in the above thread that he has also seen our P/G exhaust kits in J bodies and verified it was a good fit with the pipe switch I just posted. L-Body kits fit straight out the back on L-Bodys. P/G body kits also stick straight out on the intended application. However, they may fit on an angle in the LeBaron/TC Masi and T&C. It's a GREAT idea on ALL models to move the fuel tank over and bend those tabs. With tolerances as tight as they are the last thing you want to do is have the pipes right up against the tank to rattle and pre-heat your fuel. We also like to insert a worm gear clamp through a short piece of rubber hose then wrap it around the axle to prevent pipe contact with the suspension while going over speed bumps. I'll get a picture and post that trick in the next couple of days.

FWIW- We have installed 2 of the same exhaust kits in two identical year Daytonas with different results. One went in with little effort while we struggled an extra hour with the second Daytona. Spring heights, muffler choices, Turbo location, installer experience, etc could all make a difference. When we install our 3" kit on our 87 CSX we will take plenty of pics for a new thread. Until then we would like to see pics of your Shadow install since that is what the OP was looking for info on.

Hope that explains things from our perspective,

Chris-TU

[Mathew]

thanks for answering guys

[GLHNSLHT2]

I may have asked you to email me so I could respond with the pics. Never the less, the pic is now in my post above for everyone's reference. ABDC or CDBA? Not sure which order it goes in but it will be obvious once you place the pipes in the car which way fits better.

That statement makes it sound like you've never installed one of these yourself. Cause 1st you say to install them in such and such an order and when I asked which direction you were referring too all you have to say is "it will be obvious once you place the pipes in the car". That's fine but then you want to make comments about how I installed both systems. Did you even read my whole posts?

The important point was to cut the pipes as you see them in the photo.

Chris, both kits I've installed have arrived already cut there so I'm not sure why you're stating that.


Here's pics of an install on an 85 Chrysler T&C.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?40225-My-parents-85-Chrysler-T-amp-C-turbo-wagon-build&p=603433&viewfull=1#post603433


That's a Lbody kit. Not sure why you'd try that on a Kcar but it does seem to clear the panhard bar better which is better. But it still points the muffler out at an angle. Both kits I've used have been the P/G body kits and which is the one I have posted links to pictures of. In fact the one you posted that has the letters on each end isn't even an Lbody kit. Let's try to keep this related to the NON-Lbody kit so as not to add confusion.



As you mentioned L-Body and P/G body kits can be made to fit a few other models like the NYr, LeBaron/TC Masi and Chrysler T&C, but, some mods might be necessary. AJ mentioned in the above thread that he has also seen our P/G exhaust kits in J bodies and verified it was a good fit with the pipe switch I just posted. L-Body kits fit straight out the back on L-Bodys. P/G body kits also stick straight out on the intended application.

I have a hard time believing that as the 2nd kit I installed on a Pbody would of stuck out an an angle just like it does on my New Yorker had we not changed the order and rotation of the pipes.



However, they may fit on an angle in the LeBaron/TC Masi and T&C. It's a GREAT idea on ALL models to move the fuel tank over and bend those tabs. With tolerances as tight as they are the last thing you want to do is have the pipes right up against the tank to rattle and pre-heat your fuel. We also like to insert a worm gear clamp through a short piece of rubber hose then wrap it around the axle to prevent pipe contact with the suspension while going over speed bumps. I'll get a picture and post that trick in the next couple of days.

FWIW- We have installed 2 of the same exhaust kits in two identical year Daytonas with different results. One went in with little effort while we struggled an extra hour with the second Daytona. Spring heights, muffler choices, Turbo location, installer experience, etc could all make a difference. When we install our 3" kit on our 87 CSX we will take plenty of pics for a new thread. Until then we would like to see pics of your Shadow install since that is what the OP was looking for info on.

Hope that explains things from our perspective,

Chris-TU

I'll get some pics as soon as possible. But it might be a week or two as the weather sucks and I've got other things going on.

[Force Fed Mopar]

The 3" system on Bozo's Lebaron required some tweaking to get from the side of the tank over the axle and out the back past the panhard bracing also. I tried to get it to go in myself, but there was no way it was clearing the body and panhard brace. I sent him to the local muffler shop and they cut it, rotated and rewelded it in a couple spots and made it work. I don't remember whose kit it was though.

[A.J.]

That's a Lbody kit. Not sure why you'd try that on a Kcar but it does seem to clear the panhard bar better which is better. But it still points the muffler out at an angle. Both kits I've used have been the P/G body kits and which is the one I have posted links to pictures of. In fact the one you posted that has the letters on each end isn't even an Lbody kit. Let's try to keep this related to the NON-Lbody kit so as not to add confusion.


Nope, I installed the P/G body kit on my Dad's T&C wagon. You might want to read that thread again. The exhaust is pointing out at an angle because the spare tire well is bigger than the P/G body cars. The reason I ran into trouble was because I was installing a kit on a car that it wasn't made for. Just like you installing a P/G body kit on a New Yorker. Ya, most K based cars are close, but sometimes are different enough to make a tight fitting exhaust that much harder to install.

Also if you're welding in your exhausts, that's another problem. With such a tight fit (cramming 10 lbs of crap into a 5 lb bag) your going to have to make adjustments. The stainless steel band clamps are a must! Plus they have the added feature of holding everything together while your mocking it up if you don't have someone with you to hold pipes in place. When the car is off the ground, it's not going to fit the same way as when you're on the ground. I've seen a couple of kits installed by Chris and no welding was done to the exhaust. I know one was a Lebaron that was on Chris's lift couple of times I was at his place picking up parts. It was a tight fit but worked well. I don't think he owns a welder. And the kits I've installed have never been welded.

CORRECTION. The tail pipe on my van had to be welded to get around the trailer hitch. Damn you Chris! Why couldn't you predict that one of your customers might instal your mini-van exhaust on a van that has a trailer hitch and make the proper accommodations. I realize it's been two years since I installed that exhaust http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?22444-New-3-quot-Mini-van-exhaust&highlight= but I want a 200% REFUND!

A.J.

[GLHNSLHT2]

I don't care for the band clamps, thye always leak a little bit and I've had them come loose.

Sorry that tail pipe section in your thread looked like a lbody rear piece. Both my kits came cut after the 2nd 45 or so bend and before the 3rd bend, where yours is all 1 piece, or was and gave you a choice of where to cut.

[Chris W]

I have installed more then just 2 of our exhaust kits. Overall, I would have to say that I have personally installed over a dozen of our complete systems on P, G, J, L, H and Q-Body vehicles. I have also assisted with the installation of our first Mini Van S-Body kit. NONE of our kits required welding, but, some of them did involve a few cuts to install in non-intended applications. Even with all those installs under my belt I by no means consider myself a professional exhaust system technician. I assumed that if I can do it most other technically astute enthusiasts can also. This is why we get so defensive when a few customer's provide negative feedback on our kits due to their inexperience. If you are having difficulties installing our systems we first suggest contacting us directly for assistance. We provide whatever information we can over the phone then direct you to one of the many write ups on this forum with pictures. If that doesn't work for you, we suggest getting a more experienced friend to assist you or bringing you vehicle to a professional shop for installation. Once again, I have installed these kits personally and know they fit. AJ and many other locals will vouch for this as well. We have several hundreds of these exhaust kits out there. Many customers have already provided positive feedback on their installs and we can guarantee you we didn't send you a different design. The only variables here are your car and your capabilities. As AJ mentioned in his post, installing a 3" system in a vehicle that was intended for 2"+ is going to have some challenges ESPECIALLY if it's going into a vehicle that the kit was not even designed for.

The fact that your stainless steel clamps are leaking exhaust and loosening up is proof that you are not familiar with the proper installation. The problem is caused by you not tightening them down far enough. In order to provide a tight leak free seal they need to be cranked down with a 1/2" breaker bar or impact gun until the bands stretch. If they are being used when joining flared and normal joints the band will stretch more on the large side and less on the small side (see attached photo). This requires quite a bit of muscle using hand tools. I know AJ uses anti seize on the threads for a little added lubrication. You may even want to retighten them after they have gone through a few heat cycles.

The order of the pipes was correct (A-B-D-C) but the direction of exhaust flow was not fresh in my mind since the last time I completed an install with that mod was over three years ago. I did start a write up for the mods a long time ago but with so few interested in a 3" system for the SL I never completed it. I located the instructions last night so this should clear up any questions you might have:

"To install the exhaust kit in an H-Body you must cut the pipe as shown. If using Stainless Steel Exhaust clamps be sure to leave at least 1.5 inches from the bend to insure sealing.

Insert end “C” into the Z-Pipe to go over the axle. Insert “B” into “D” and clamp or weld. You might want to use wire or a friend to hold pieces in place while you are doing the install. When using SS Exhaust clamps be sure to keep the clamp bolts away from gas tank to avoid penetration in case of an accident. Trim excess bolt from clamp after they are fully tightened."




CORRECTION. The tail pipe on my van had to be welded to get around the trailer hitch. Damn you Chris! Why couldn't you predict that one of your customers might instal your mini-van exhaust on a van that has a trailer hitch and make the proper accommodations. I realize it's been two years since I installed that exhaust http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?22444-New-3-quot-Mini-van-exhaust&highlight= but I want a 200% REFUND!

A.J.

Sorry AJ, my "don't care meter" is already in the red. :p

Chris-TU

[Force Fed Mopar]

I don't care for the band clamps, thye always leak a little bit and I've had them come loose.



I've seen this also.

[A.J.]

I don't care for the band clamps, thye always leak a little bit and I've had them come loose.

Sorry that tail pipe section in your thread looked like a lbody rear piece. Both my kits came cut after the 2nd 45 or so bend and before the 3rd bend, where yours is all 1 piece, or was and gave you a choice of where to cut.

Like Chris stated I use never seize on the stainless steel clamp bolts. But not just on the threads, but also on the back side of the heads for lubrication. If you don't there is too much friction and you can't get them tight enough. Even if you use a 1/2" impact gun with a wrench on the other end. The only time I've had a leak is when I swap out my straight pipe for a cat every two years when I need to go to emissions. You could probably use oil or grease but never seize doesn't smell or burn when it gets hot.

I got my exhaust uncut. My kit didn't come with instructions either. I had to call Chris and he e-mailed me the picture showing where to cut.

A.J.

[tmef]

Chris, I for one applaud you for the patience and commitment you have towards this community. All the R&D you put into your products just to turn around and have some tried to be copied (and not so good btw) by other vendors, or the complaints about the fitment of parts designed for car "A" not going on car "B" without modifications would make me want to throw in the towel. I am a lesser man than you. Please keep helping us.

---------- Post added at 07:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:37 PM ----------


I've seen this also.

Been using band clamps on industrial applications for many years. Installed correctly they do no leak and do not come loose. Sorry.

[shackwrrr]

Sorry chris but when I got the exhaust from you I was pissed. It was all cut apart to fit in an "oversized" box and when I went to put it on my shadow I ordered too few clamps since I went by the picture. I ended up cutting the kit apart and made a side pipe. I ended up trading it for a FWD 3" catback and it fit in seamlessly. The over the axle piece just slipped right in and down and had a flared joint that hooked to a 45 degree kick on the Z pipe and then a straight piece that hooked to my TU 3" downpipe. The downpipe pissed me off too because the angle of the donut gasket does not fit the angle of the 2.5" swingvalve and I had to jack up my solid bobble strut to make it fit.

[Timmay2]

Chris helped me install a 3" system on my TC at his shop a couple years ago and it went rather well.

The over axle was a close fit, but it did not rub bumb hit or rattle. We used band clamps with impact wrench (Alot of force is needed with band clamps). There was no TC specific kit so we used another one of his kits (I dont recall which kit), but it was a close fit and only required a cut on the over axle piece. Not bad considering the puny exhaust on it before and the kit wasn't made specifically for the TC.

Given the multiple angles on over axle piece and slight differences in vehicles, I personally recommend professional installation. Having the vehicle up in the air (we used TU's vehicle lift) really makes a huge difference in being able to see it clearly. If I didn't have the help of Chris and his lift I probably would have paid a shop to do it, just because one wrong cut or one inch in the wrong direction can change everything. Shops can compensate for these, band clamps cant compensate that much.

Never had and leaks either.

Tim,

[Chris W]

Sorry chris but when I got the exhaust from you I was pissed. It was all cut apart to fit in an "oversized" box and when I went to put it on my shadow I ordered too few clamps since I went by the picture. I ended up cutting the kit apart and made a side pipe. I ended up trading it for a FWD 3" catback and it fit in seamlessly. The over the axle piece just slipped right in and down and had a flared joint that hooked to a 45 degree kick on the Z pipe and then a straight piece that hooked to my TU 3" downpipe. The downpipe pissed me off too because the angle of the donut gasket does not fit the angle of the 2.5" swingvalve and I had to jack up my solid bobble strut to make it fit.

We have a P-Body scheduled for install soon. We will take detailed photos and post in our section for those who might be interested.

This is the first I have heard about an issue with the DP. Do you have any pics? We did send a few back to our manufacturer because the donut seat was not perpendicular to the pipe. If that's the case we can swap it out with a new one for you.

Let us know.

Chris-TU

[Vader85]

Looking forward to purchasing your 3" for my 85 SC......I have a few mufflers in mind:
http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/displayapplications.asp?partnumber=18129
http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/shopexd.asp?zone=main&id=9097
http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/shopexd.asp?zone=main&id=9094

[Vader85]

Here's a picture of my 3" SS Cattman catback for my 2003 Nissan Maxima:

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp148/just4guest/CattmanCatback007.jpg

Pic of Oem vs 2.5" vs 3.0" catback
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp148/just4guest/3inCattmanCatback001.jpg

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp148/just4guest/CattmanCatback001.jpg

[GLHNSLHT2]

uhh this is Turbo Mopar not turbo nissan? :confused:

[Force Fed Mopar]

My 3" exhaust I recently had done at a local muffler shop. TU 3" downpipe (a Rick Diogo version, supposed to be for a L-body, but what the hell :D) and old --- Walker UltraFlo muffler. Cost my $150 (+$105 for the dp, bought it years ago).

[Vader85]

My 3" exhaust I recently had done at a local muffler shop. TU 3" downpipe (a Rick Diogo version, supposed to be for a L-body, but what the hell :D) and old --- Walker UltraFlo muffler. Cost my $150 (+$105 for the dp, bought it years ago).
So how does it sound? Got enough room to add a long resonator if it were loud too......!!

---------- Post added at 10:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:11 AM ----------


uhh this is Turbo Mopar not turbo nissan? :confused:

I realize that!!!! Since the topic was 3" exhaust I thought I would show you guys another system from another manufacture to get some minds thinking about different looks and component for our TD cars...I have mostly Nissan's (3 ea) and (1) TD everything has headers, custom exhaust, custom, Intakes and ignition etc.....I love Dodge and Nissan and I'm crazy about cars period so this was to stimulate those that may need some ideas to their 3" or 4" TD exhaust system.....that Maxima 3" exhaust adds 20 whp/30 wtq to my N/A setup....it's a freaking piece of art!