Fuse keeps blowing

[SebringLX]

I think it's the #10 fuse inside the engine compartment, can't find my owners manual right now to see what it's supposed to be for. It's a 10 amp fuse, and when it goes out, all my gauges lose power. I've replaced it twice now.

It never goes out while the car is on or running. I'll drive the car around, park it, and the next morning when I start the car, none of the gauges have power. Shut the car off, replace the fuse, start the car and they all work again.

It seems to happen after bypassing the DIS2. With my DIS2 hooked up, the car has trouble starting, and doesn't seem to run so smooth. When I bypass it, it starts 1st try ever time, and seems to run a lot stronger/smoother, but then this fuse blows after driving then letting the car sit for more than a few hours.

I'm starting to suspect the dual channel ignition adapter that is required for the DIS2 to work. The DIS2 was repaired after shorting out due to water getting into it, but the ignition adapter wasn't touched. However the ignition adapted has to be bypassed for the car to start with the DIS2 bypassed.

This is driving me nuts, I can't figure out what is causing this fuse to blow, and why it would only blow while the car is OFF and sitting for a while. Could I use a stronger fuse on it? Would it work if I put a 20amp fuse in instead of the 10amp?

[turbovanman²]

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/content.php?233-A-cheap-and-easy-way-to-test-for-shorts-and-to-test-grounds!

Then you can see, unplug stuff to find it.

[turbovanman²]

If this is the panel on the left, inner fender, fuse #10 goes straight to the ignition switch and sentry key immobilizer module.

[bris09]

Take the time to keep troubleshooting it. Putting a 20amp fuse in may cause a serious problem. The fuse may not blow but the wiring insulation may melt causing a fire. I'd look to see see what changes in the circuit with the key on, key off, system bypassed, etc. Some thing maybe trying to pull power through that circuit when the key is off causing too high of an amp load. Start by figuring out everthing that circuit powers and do as Simon said and eliminate things from the circuit until the fuse no longer blows.

[SebringLX]

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/content.php?233-A-cheap-and-easy-way-to-test-for-shorts-and-to-test-grounds!

Then you can see, unplug stuff to find it.

I'm not 100% sure on what is running off this circuit though. I know that the gauges in my dash, my boost gauge, and my wideband, and the stupid E-Manage that I still haven't gotten around to removing, all have no power when this fuse goes out. There's no way to unplug those, I'd have to cut wires.

It's almost as if the ground is different with the DIS2 hooked up, 'cause it doesn't blow when it is. Like it's not getting as good of a ground somewhere with the bypass plug in place.

Also I don't have any old halogen lamps laying around to make that thing... isn't there someway I could test resistance with my digital multimeter to track down the problem?

---------- Post added at 06:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:24 PM ----------


If this is the panel on the left, inner fender, fuse #10 goes straight to the ignition switch and sentry key immobilizer module.

Drivers side of the engine bay, directly above the battery (which is in the wheel well). The positive jumper terminal is built into this fuse box. The car will start with the fuse blow or removed. I don't have a chipped key.

[turbovanman²]

The old light acts as a sink so it won't burn up the circuit looking for the problem.

More digging, the other circuits on the ignition switch are-starter motor relay, PCM, BCM, then goes off to fuse #15 in the junction block and another junction box at the end of the dash. It won't be the latter 2 items as they are fuse protected.

[SebringLX]

PCM is a possability, some of this stuff is spliced into the wiring harness near the PCM. I'm pretty sure the PCM draws some power even when the car is off.

[turbovanman²]

Go buy a sealed beam, then put it in place of the fuse, wait for it to light up, then start wiggling wiring or unhook the PCM, if it goes out, then you have a place to start. :p

[SebringLX]

Go buy a sealed beam, then put it in place of the fuse, wait for it to light up, then start wiggling wiring or unhook the PCM, if it goes out, then you have a place to start. :p

Would this light work? http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SYL0/H5001.oap?keyword=h5001

[turbovanman²]

Yep, anything like that.

[SebringLX]

Some new codes popped up after the fuse went out this last time...

P0129
P0645
P0508
P0688

[SebringLX]

I think P0688 may be the key here...
"ECM/PCM Power Relay Sense Circuit Open"

Also found it as "ASD Relay Control Circuit", which doesn't make sense... doesn't seem like the car should start or run at all if the ASD is bad. Isn't that supposed to kill power to the fuel pump, injectors, and PCM? I'm not even sure where the ASD is on my car.

[turbovanman²]

I'll dig around some more later, didn't get much work done yesterday, :(

[SebringLX]

Fuse hasn't blown all week. My Innova 3310 digital multimeter (http://equus.com/Content/Support/Manual/3310.pdf) has a 10A fuse test function on it, so I tried that today. With the car off, there is 0 draw from this fuse socket. With the car on, it starts out at ~3, then drops to ~1.75 after a few seconds. This is with the DIS2 bypassed. I'll have to hook it back up and see if there's anything different.

[SebringLX]

Ok I think I got it fixed. I took everything off the positive terminal, reconnected it, made sure everything was nice and tight. Wired the DIS2 back in, started it up, and it starts great now, just like it will with the DIS2 disconnected. Fuse doesn't seem to be blowing anymore. Gotta wait until the wife gets home from work so I can go for a test drive. The way it starts with the DIS2 now as compared to before is a good sign though, so hopefully driving with it connected will be strong and smooth too.

[black86glhs]

Hmmmm, maybe the power connection wasn't good and that is all it was. Hope it really is that simple.