Code 15

[Orangetona]

Speed Distance Sensor.

Well...wondering if this is completely the problem with the car or if there is possibly something else to look into.

I come up to a stop and push the clutch in and coast to the light and it dies. (This I figure is all SDS.) However, I have an acceleration problem too. Past i'd say 1/2 throttle to WOT all through the power band it doesnt rev through smoothly. It jerks, catches itself goes a bit and does it all over again. Also, the car seems rich. (Related?) Not overboosting, SDS issue?

Codes:
12
15
55

New plugs, cap, rotor, wires, coil.

87 GLHS

[Orangetona]

Bump.

[RoadWarrior222]

I was chasing an SDS issue that turnd out to be a chafe in the harness, back corner of the battery had rubbed on the harness, wires lost insulation then turned into green goo... patched it up and all my issues went away.

[shelbymonster]

with code 15 the car will stall when coming to a stop , ive run without the speedsensor with no other problem tho

[Aries_Turbo]

pull the harness and take it in the house.

go to the hardware store and buy 5 or so rolls of cloth friction tape.

get some wd40, a can of CRC QD electronics cleaner, a small straight blade screwdriver, a paperclip that has the "serrations" (like they stamp them so they'll grip paper well) and a small stainless steel brush.

get an old blanket or tarp and lay it on the floor.

grab a snack/drink, pop in a good movie.

lay out the harness on the tarp/blanket

pull every bit of that friction tape off and the loom.

check every inch of the harness for cracks and rub-through.

clean/check every connector/pin for corrosion and clean with the QD and the Brush/Screwdriver/Paperclip depending on the style of the connector. if a connector is really green, disassemble the connector and check to see if it should be replaced or just cleaned carefully. tweak them when you have them out to make sure theyll make good contact.

pay close attention to the injector harness. they love to crack and corrode. rebuild with injector pigtails from diyautotune if necessary.

reassemble the connectors. spritz each one with some WD.

reassemble the loom and retape the joints with the friction tape.

take the LM apart and check the pins for corrosion. check the circuit board for corrosion too. spray the backside of the board with the QD if there is any and clean it off with a toothbrush. then spray it down with WD and reassemble.

check the PM pins too and spray and regrease.

clean/check all the relays and sensors.

reassemble and enjoy the drivability and reliability.

this is what ive done to all my TM's and ive never had a harness issue.

i didnt do it to the k car at first and i had all kinds of CEL and bucks and stumbles.

once done though, its been perfect.

brian

---------- Post added at 12:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:48 PM ----------

oh, pipe cleaners work well to clean the small connector holes.

brian

[RoadWarrior222]

Awesome!

So you'll do mine if I pick up the six pack and movie rental?

Just kiddin', I think I'm gonna have to do that sometime. Personal prefs for electronicals though.... toothbrush and q-tips and isopropyl alcohol, if very corroded WD-40 as a cleaner, brass bristle wire brush if needed, doesn't scrape off any plating so much as steel or SS does. Then silicone spray for protection rather than WD-40 which gums up after a month or two. Silicone all over the wires also seems to help seal the surface and stabilise it.

[Aries_Turbo]

yeah if you come over and help lol. you arent that far away.

i like the QD stuff better than alky.

yeah the steel is a little harsh but im gentle. :)

Brian

[Orangetona]

Gonna definately need to do this. Thanks Brian.

[BadAssPerformance]

get some wd40, a can of CRC QD electronics cleaner, a small straight blade screwdriver, a paperclip that has the "serrations" (like they stamp them so they'll grip paper well) and a small stainless steel brush.

LOL, easy there MacGruber!

I have had a code 15 set from a bad fusible link as well... stumped me at first, thought it was just a bad SDS, replaced it, nada... the searched around and found it right in the wiring behind the battery ... also, when mine did that it was not dying at a stop but rather idleing at 2k..

[Orangetona]

Well, there is an orange wire that is not hooked up on the PM. The wire is stripped and bent back over the sheathing, like if you made up spark plug wires.

[Aries_Turbo]

that might be part of the problem :)

[Orangetona]

True haha. Well monday I have a job ahead of me lol. After I pull the wiring, im gonna swap out the AIS and TPS from the old orange car since I know they are good. SDS will be tuesday night.

I havent been under a TM in a while, are they easy to change?

[RoadWarrior222]

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?57391-Odometer-reading-fast&p=788556&viewfull=1#post788556

But an '87 you'll definitely need the speedo cable off it. Go careful on that. The "old orange car" had a speedo cable I hope?

Edit: since you want to change it, (Not look at the color of the drive gear like in the thread I was replying to) you'll want to carefully unscrew the speedo cable first.

[Orangetona]

Im actually replacing it new, not using an old part for the SDS. The TPS and AIS are coming off the old orange car.

[BadAssPerformance]

Well, there is an orange wire that is not hooked up on the PM. The wire is stripped and bent back over the sheathing, like if you made up spark plug wires.

The fusible link that went in mine (that drew a code 15) was an orange one... any there other wire ends not connected in that fusible link area?

Mine was not easy to find because it was corroded inside the wire insulation. I found it by doing the fusible link "tug test" and saw the orange wire insulation stretch.

[Orangetona]

Very interesting. Could be a big part of my problems. Thanks JT

[BadAssPerformance]

Good luck man :thumb:

[Orangetona]

Ok, looking at the car, there is no plug in the PM that actually has a pin missing. Does anyone know where this solid orange wire goes?

This is the wire I found:

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/921/medium/DSCN0660.JPG

This was hangin out a little further down the harness:

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/921/medium/DSCN0659.JPG

If these do go together, where does this wire actually go?

Thanks in advance

[BadAssPerformance]

Does it look like the wires are long enough to connect? Hard to say which wire it is without looking where it is coming from... but if you only have two wires disconnected and they are both orange... I'd try to connect them maybe?

[Orangetona]

Ill hafta look when I get back over there. Darn water box on the head is pitted so bad it leaks like a siv. Gotta tend to that as well.

Im gonna connect them if I can, but I still have no idea where it goes. Is there a diagram I can refer to somehow?

[Aries_Turbo]

looks like a fusible link. is the wire real soft and flexible? mice love to chew those things.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/electrical.html

here are some resources.

[Orangetona]

It is soft and flexible compared to the other wires near it. Also, its leading me to believe that this is the fusible link to the radiator fan, according to that link. Reason being, the rad fan is wired to toggle and they couldnt figure out why it wasnt working.

SDS still on the list then.

[Aries_Turbo]

id peel back the tape/loom and see where it goes.

it would suck to connect it back in and have the harness go up in smoke. :)

brian

[Orangetona]

Oh no doubt. Just saying what I think is all. That link helped alot. I hadnt been on there in quite a long time.