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wallace
03-04-2011, 09:11 AM
I've been getting parts together for this thing for about a year now. I have 2.5 cb out of my van with .020" Wiseco's. Block has been honed/cleaned. 782 head and 2 piece lower with one of Lengels flanges at the head porter now and actually being worked on (yay). OBX diff. MS2 for control. 160 lb/hr injectors, e85 for fuel. I have 4 puck unsprung and pp out of the van as well. A523 with the 3.50 FD. The header I posted in the fabrication section is for this as well. HY35 turbo and 38 mm tnetics evolution gate. I think I have enough money this year to finish the car and drive it so I thought I would start a build thread. I've got one car in front of this one in the shop and barring any disasters should be in there in the next 2-3 weeks. Car is to be my dd. I'll post on the progress as I go along. Pics of the car as it is now.

wallace
06-06-2011, 07:48 AM
Port work is done on head and intake. I got block cleaned and measured main bearing clearances all of them come in at .0017-.0018". I'm thinking that's a little tight? Went to set up rods to check clearances there and had on bad rod bolt I think I got some debris in the threads. Had to cut the nut off. I need to find out if I can get just two of the ARP wavelock rod bolts. Head flowed 172 on the intake and 127 on the exhaust at .450". I'll post some pics of the head and intake soon.

wallace
06-09-2011, 09:42 AM
Mains are done. I set them to .0022-.0024. Got installed height on valves measured need to get a couple of shims. Using the Comp 942 spring. I don't have enough room to set the springs at 1.7 on the intake side so I think I'm going to set them all at 1.67. Cam is stock 88 TBI roller. Anyone see issues setting the springs up .030" tighter? Pic of ported intake with Lengel flange on it. As soon as I can get the engine assembled going to set it in the car and get started on the intake. I bought an SRT-4 aluminum flywheel yesterday so I think I'm going to try and run that with that style clutch.

Mike M
06-10-2011, 12:35 AM
I could only speculate that 1.67 probably isn't a big deal with a stock cam and such, but I'm sure more people know a lot more on that topic.

On another note... cool car, my first TD (second car ever) was a 87 Horizon that I bought with no motor, my first project vehicle that I put a 2.2 log motor into... it got t-boned many years ago else I'd still have it to this day and who knows how fast that little thing would be considering what I've put into that cars replacement (now 12 second Lancer Shelby).

I love Horizons, peace!

wallace
06-21-2011, 03:24 PM
Got the rod bolts for #1 yesterday and got them installed and sized. Crank was out .0015" I had that straightened while I was out there. Should be able to assemble the shortblock this week if time permits.

wallace
07-05-2011, 07:48 AM
Rotating assembly is done. I set both rod and main clearances to .0022-.0024. I posted some pics of my windage tray/crank scraper setup I don't think I've ever seen pictures on this site so thought I would share, it's the Ishihara-Johnson one for 2.5. Have to get cylinder head assembled and then I can install in the car and start working on the upper intake manifold. I will never use the waveloc rod bolts again they are a GIANT pain to work with when setting clearances. Also posted a couple with the header, turbo, and intake on the stand.

wallace
07-12-2011, 08:24 AM
Long block is assembled. Car is in the shop and I've removed the old engine and transmission. Should be able to get the new engine/transmission in there to start fab/mock up of everything.

1BADVAN
07-12-2011, 11:51 AM
Looks sweet! what are your goals with this car?

wallace
07-12-2011, 01:31 PM
Thank you! It's a street car and built just for fun, if it will make 400 hp I'll be a happy camper. I do plan to take it to the track (for tuning mostly) but not going to break stuff just to get a number out of it.

wallace
07-17-2011, 06:00 PM
Upper intake is about 75% done, I think it turned out pretty decent. I had problems with my welder and had to repair a trace on the board to finish up. Good news is the welder works much more consistent now. I need to weld a square end with a mandrel elbow on it to bring the throttle body about where a stock intake would be. Next is to tackle the intercooler and air intake. Watcha think?

rx2mazda
07-17-2011, 10:28 PM
looks good....your gonna have a street terror on your hands!

wallace
07-22-2011, 08:20 AM
Plugging away. IC mounting location is set I'll level it when it gets finish mounted. I made a shroud out of .090" aluminum for the stock radiator and added a modern fan off of a newer car it's a 14" fan. Also have oil cooler that I think I'm going to mount between IC and radiator. Had to ditch the AC I had big ideas I was going to be able to keep it but I don't think that's goinig to happen. Should have everything to complete the upper intake today so hopefully will finish that Saturday. What have you guys done to support the hood latch area after cutting out the center support? It looks flimsy without some support. I could make the IC a structural part of that area but wondering how much stress that area is under. Any info to share would be great. Thanks.

rx2mazda
07-22-2011, 09:05 AM
fan shroud looks good! i use the intercooler/radiator as my core support.

wallace
07-22-2011, 09:37 AM
Cool, that's what I'll do then. Thank you for the info.

wallace
07-24-2011, 06:21 AM
Intake is complete minus a bung for vacuum. I may add a brace from tbody back to plenum to keep the elbow from cracking.

rx2mazda
07-24-2011, 11:06 PM
intake is definitly different Let us know how it works out. I worry about the air delivery to #4cyl with that 160 turn it has to make..hopefully its fine. Good luck!

wallace
07-25-2011, 06:41 AM
I'm wondering how well it will function myself. I did some studying on air flow and intake manifold design and was surprised at some of the shapes that contributed to equal flow to all cylinders. If it doesn't work out I can cut it off and build another one. Thank you for the feedback!

wallace
07-27-2011, 07:55 AM
Shifter cables are run and holes drilled in the floor. I used the stock dimple for the auto tranny cable for the shift cable and the selector went above and to the left of that one. I moved the shifter back about 5" and over towards the driver. Downpipe is going to be a bear to get in there and leave enough room around the shift cable.

wallace
08-07-2011, 12:55 AM
IC is mounted and plumbed to intake and turbo. I welded a 45* on the compressor outlet, it clears the head no grinding needed.

wallace
09-07-2011, 07:14 AM
I assembled the MS2 yesterday since it rained here. All that's left on that is to make the additional circuits for the extra's. Going with the LS2 truck coils in wasted spark, tach driver, launch/flatshift, shift light, 2nd fuel pump activation under boost.

wallace
12-28-2011, 04:34 PM
Finish welded the header which included mounting the wastegate. I've got the downpipe tacked together. Drilled and tapped the outlet flange on the turbine to keep the wastegate flapper closed.

wallace
02-06-2012, 07:40 AM
Exhaust is finish welded. I need to get a few hangers to complete it. Still need to weld in the o2 bung. I got the dump tube for the wastegate done too.372573725837259

AzShadow
02-06-2012, 02:23 PM
this thing is going to be a beast!

i might have to request some info regarding your ms2 setup btw

wallace
02-22-2012, 04:41 PM
Let me know on the MS stuff almost done with mine going to test it on the bench hopefully by the end of the week. I ordered E-code headlights for the car today. I also got a Miata battery to use I'm going to mount in in a well on the passenger side where the vapor canister used to go.

wallace
02-27-2012, 12:57 PM
I got the battery mounted on the passenger side. I got the e-code headlights in and you have to trim a little metal off of the buckets to allow the bulb connections to poke through. I got the ones with the extra bulb inside for a parking light...I didn't really want them but they were out of stock on the ones without. I got the floorboard patched up and painted. I need to seal it up on the outside and paint there. Slow going but progress nonetheless.

wallace
03-02-2012, 03:32 PM
I got the MS done and verified it works on the jim stim with the 2.2/2.5 wheel code. I got launch/flatshift, 2nd fuel pump activation, tach output, fan control. coil and injector connectors are in. Going to start wiring this weekend.


3790537906

168glhs1986
03-02-2012, 07:24 PM
Great, keep the updates coming!

wallace
04-25-2012, 09:38 PM
Been really busy and unable to work on the car until this week. I got the MS installed in the console where the little pocket used to be. I used a Delphi 31 pin connector at the firewall. I got the main relay, coils, injectors, coolant and some other stuff wired up. I used the Ford fuse assembly that was mentioned on here I think. The harness is in place for the most part. Battery cables are assembled. I went to the junkyard and got a 120A Nippondenso alternator and all of the sensor plugs except for the TPS I forgot that one. I also made a list of things I need to do to the car and it is discouraging how long it is.

wallace
06-22-2012, 02:43 PM
almost done with the wiring. I removed all the wiring not needed using the FSM. Most of the MS wiring is done. Have to weld in the bung for the IAT then it can be wired. I bought the tubing to run the fuel lines with. I'm using a stock TBI tank and going to modify the stock TBI pickup for external pumps. Hope to make good progress tomorrow on the wiring and maybe finish it up.

AzShadow
06-23-2012, 08:33 PM
so are you going to run 4 coils? also, are you going to use the stock hall effect to run it or?

wallace
06-24-2012, 09:30 AM
Hey, yes using 4 ls2 coils and the stock dual HEP's with the MS code for the 2.2/2.5 wheels. Coils firing in wasted spark mode I don't have enough outputs with the MS2 for full sequential spark and fuel. I've checked the MS on the stim and it does sync up to that test pattern for the dual HEP's will just need to verify sync once I've got the car ready to start.

wallace
07-01-2012, 06:49 PM
40383Car is wired finally, lot more left than it looked like. I still need to wire a wideband in but have not decided on what I'm going to use yet. I got the bov, iat, and vacuum block fittings welded into the intake and tubing and installed them. Modified stock TBI pickup for 2 3/8" pickups and a singe 3/8" return. I need to get the weld fittings for the ends of the tubing that stick out of the assembly. I'll post a pic of it when I'm finished with it. I got both of the pumps mounted under the car. Still lots to do...

wallace
07-03-2012, 06:06 AM
Got the tank in and bent up the two inlets from the pickup to the pumps. I ordered what I believe I'll need to finish up the fuel system. I also ordered up most of the hose and fittings for the oil cooler and remote filter.

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wallace
07-07-2012, 06:31 PM
I got my cold air stuff all tacked together and ready to finish weld. Had to trim the fender just a bit to get it to fit. The inlet plenum measured 6.2L using water. Going to finish it up tomorrow I hope and get onto something else as well.
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168glhs1986
07-07-2012, 07:24 PM
Oh yea Cold Air Innovation! You fabbing any brake duct stuff?

black86glhs
07-07-2012, 09:46 PM
Oh yeah! Looking good. You have to drive it on the stock tires first....lol. Even if you take it easy!!!

wallace
07-09-2012, 07:25 AM
Oh yea Cold Air Innovation! You fabbing any brake duct stuff?

Man I don't think I could fit a brake duct in there! I would like to roast those 13" tires off the rims before I do the 5 lug swap.

wallace
07-18-2012, 02:03 PM
Fuel system is finished. I need one tube nut and one sleeve to connect the return from the regulator to the hardline on the chassis. I mounted the regulator on the air filter housing and brought the return in the same fashion as the carbureted supply had been run up the driver side of the car. The list is smaller but still alot left to do.

4061440615

fishcleaner
07-21-2012, 09:27 PM
looking good and getting closer to running, keep up the great work

wallace
08-06-2012, 07:47 AM
This car and all of the parts are for sale. If anyone is interested I will make you a really good deal.

2.216VTurbo
08-06-2012, 07:45 PM
Why does life always get in the way of the cool projects:(?

168glhs1986
08-06-2012, 08:00 PM
Why does life always get in the way of the cool projects:(?

Or maybe he's buying the race glht for sale on this forum?

wallace
08-08-2012, 09:03 AM
The madness has passed. I'm going to finish the car just feeling like I don't have time and I'll never get it done. I had gotten to thinking of how much time I've already got into it and how far I've still got to go and I let it get me down. Going to soldier on I think it will be worth it once done.

2.216VTurbo
08-08-2012, 04:27 PM
:rockon:

ShelGame
08-08-2012, 04:56 PM
The madness has passed. I'm going to finish the car just feeling like I don't have time and I'll never get it done. I had gotten to thinking of how much time I've already got into it and how far I've still got to go and I let it get me down. Going to soldier on I think it will be worth it once done.

I've been there. And every car or motorcycle project I've let go I wish I still had...

omni_840
08-08-2012, 09:34 PM
Cool project! I somehow missed it and went through the whole build and got sad and then happy you decided to continue on:nod:

black86glhs
08-09-2012, 04:07 AM
I only speak for those of us with depression issues......Don't change gears that fast!!!! It is hard on the nerves!!!!:D



LOL....glad you are back to it. I'm trying to get motivated myself.:mecry:

wallace
08-09-2012, 08:13 AM
Thanks for the encouragement guys. Going to get back at it tonight.

wallace
10-08-2012, 08:20 AM
I have made some decent progress. 5 lug conversion is complete I used the SLH1 recipe. Pedal travel is a bit too much for my taste so I'm going to swap in the larger MC that Stewdaddy donated. Pedal effort is minimal so I think it will put it in the sweet spot. I finished installing the oil cooler, remote filter, and thermostat. I fabricated another box for the cooler that goes in the front air dam. K-member has been pulled cleaned and painted. I got the manual rack installed. Transmission has been sent to Cliff for the OBX and 3.50 FD install. I had to pull the car out to work on my DD. Once I get it back in going to pull the engine/transmission and the K-member to weld up the engine bay and paint it.
4181941820

T-Bohn
10-08-2012, 09:02 AM
Cool!! My first time reading through the build log.

Your car and build choices look really good. I do like the CAI a lot, very "cool idea"

Thanks for sharing with us.

wallace
11-06-2012, 08:37 AM
I got transmission back from Cliff, looks good. He found transmission to be in really good shape. I had gotten the wrong bearings for the diff and he got the correct ones. I need to order a clutch and pull the drivetrain out. Not sure I'm going to have the time to weld up the sheet metal. How critical is it that I stitch that stuff up?

AzShadow
11-28-2012, 11:31 PM
moving along dude! did you ever fire it yet with the ms2?

wallace
11-29-2012, 09:22 AM
No I haven't fired it up yet. I've bench tested the MS2 with the 2.2/2.5 code on the stimulator and everything syncs up. I pulled it apart to put the transmission/clutch in...still trying to decide on what to use. I had to install a drain in the oil pan and I've gotten that done. The oil feed, drain are done now. I also got the #4 cooling mod installed. Just need to get the clutch and put it together. I need to go and get some flex fuel. I started working on the pieces to block off the open areas around the intercooler. I'm getting close and if I could just find 3 or 4 days I think I can get it ready to fire.

wallace
12-02-2012, 08:53 PM
Got the air dam for the intercooler/radiator done. I made a sheet metal frame and then used closed minicell foam to support and seal it. Pleased with it I think it will work pretty good.

42788427874278942790

wallace
12-12-2012, 10:30 AM
got my clutch yesterday, purple plate and 4 puck from Chris. That's all I needed to go start re-assembling it. Just need the time to get to it now.

wallace
01-14-2013, 02:33 PM
Wanted to post an update and a couple of pics. My upper intake was a complete failure. After testing how evenly it flowed it was apparent my design sucked...bad. I reworked it to remove the horrible approach angle and the flow was pretty even between cylinders. Then I pressure tested it....repeated cycling to 30 psi resulted in a crack along the longest section. I made repairs and began again and it cracked in another location. I added straps and that kept it from cracking there and it started up in another area. Two things I can see that I did wrong, the material at .090" is just too thin to withstand the pressure. The type of material (H3003) is too flexible....the stiffening breaks I put in the largest panels actually just ballooned out with a distinct popping sound. I knew then it was time to throw in the towel.

So I went to the local metal supplier and bought .125" 6061 t6 flat sheet. My shear is not big enough to cut this stuff in any great length so I took it to a local duct shop who I use and they are going to shear the panels to the widths I needed. I've already mocked up the new plenum using cardboard and hot glue. I'll post pics of the new design in cardboard soon. Hopefully not too long after that pics of the completed plenum.

I got the clutch installed along with the flywheel I posted pics of that.

Kind of bummed the plenum didn't work out but oh well that's the way it goes sometimes. I was pretty close to getting to fire it up until the snafu with the plenum.

4334443345

RoadWarrior222
01-14-2013, 02:40 PM
This time, test at every stage! So, vids of the cardboard and hot glue intake at 30psi plzkthx :thumb: :D

shadow88
01-14-2013, 03:28 PM
Go to 3/16th. Please go to 3/16ths for that intake. My 1/8" cracked too. It's been repaired, but I always told myself if I make another one, it will be 3/16ths.

How did you check air distribution?

wallace
01-15-2013, 04:36 PM
My super accurate testing method was just blowing air into the open inlet with the tbody removed then putting my hand under the ports to see how even the flow felt. I "thought" the sharp turn I put on the inlet to the plenum would induce tumble and even the flow out but even with alot of air it was obvious the #4 cylinder would be getting very little air while #1 was getting more than 2/3. Here are the pics; one of the failed intake modified so that the air was more evenly distributed across the 4 cylinders. and two of the cardboard mockup. you can see the mockup is pretty close to the modified one without any nice radius' on the turn since the 6061 does not bend well. Sorry RW I'm not going to chance my hot glue/cardboard with 30 psi. I still think the design is not ideal for even flow but it will work in the space I have available. Let me know what you guys think.

433684336743366

RoadWarrior222
01-15-2013, 07:55 PM
Should look good when you're done, could paint a cross on the front and put brass handles on top just to finish it off though.

mpgmike
01-15-2013, 08:18 PM
I love the way it just keeps moving along. Kudos for the "stick-to-it-ive-ness". Looking superb! As for the intake, it looks awesome. The only thing that MIGHT add a little improvement might be to create a radiused flow from the TB to the #4 cylinder. Yours is just flat with sharp breaks. How critical will that be? I have no idea. Keep it up. Just spotted this incredible build.

Mike

rx2mazda
01-16-2013, 10:04 AM
Should look good when you're done, could paint a cross on the front and put brass handles on top just to finish it off though.


LMAO! Does look like a casket!

wallace
01-16-2013, 11:53 AM
LMAO! Does look like a casket!

I totally didn't get what he was trying to say. lol. maybe I'll paint RIP on it.

RoadWarrior222
01-16-2013, 01:19 PM
Heh, sorry, sometimes I'm slightly obscure on the theory that it's then funnier when the penny drops :D

wallace
02-04-2013, 11:16 AM
OK, version 2 of the coffin is done. No leaks this time around and no cracking when pressure cycled I think this one is a keeper. Now that I'm back to where I thought I was about 2 weeks ago progress can continue.

wallace
02-11-2013, 09:23 AM
Rebuilt the HY35 this weekend. I reassembled the header, intake, turbo, etc. and got the engine in the car. I didn't get to connect all the wiring up but that's next and then verify I've got sync with the MS2 and the HEP's and check that all of the sensors are working correctly. Next time down to the boat I'll take 2 5 gallon jugs and get me some e70 (guessing that's what they've got now). I sent the 160's off to be cleaned/checked/flowed. Last time I ran the Mustang down the street prior to tearing it apart at least one of the injectors hung open on startup. I sent 8 off and I'll take the closest 4. I took pics of the turbo rebuild if there's interest I can post them. I used carb cleaner in the gallon can to soak the wheels and center section and it worked really well to get all of the carbon and gunk off. I used a rebuild kit from BAE and I think it was a good kit complete with what looked to me to be quality components. A couple pics below of the modified turbine and how the wheels and cartridge turned out.

wallace
02-19-2013, 06:39 PM
After much frustration the MS2 is 100% ready to go. I had issues with the coil drivers that was my own fault. I got my bitchin' weighted stainless steel shift knob in too. I went down on Friday to check on the boat and bought 10 gallons of flex fuel. Hope to actually start the car this weekend time permitting.

AzShadow
02-23-2013, 09:19 PM
After much frustration the MS2 is 100% ready to go. I had issues with the coil drivers that was my own fault. I got my bitchin' weighted stainless steel shift knob in too. I went down on Friday to check on the boat and bought 10 gallons of flex fuel. Hope to actually start the car this weekend time permitting.

that's what I like to hear. btw I noticed you are running inline pumps. are they just gravity fed off the tank or? also, is this a tbi tank or carb tank?

thanks!

Rampage16V
02-23-2013, 11:09 PM
I'm loven this build!

wallace
02-25-2013, 09:03 AM
that's what I like to hear. btw I noticed you are running inline pumps. are they just gravity fed off the tank or? also, is this a tbi tank or carb tank?

thanks!

Hey, its a TBI tank and pickup. I modified the pickup for 2 feeds to the inline pumps. One continuous and one I'll trigger with boost setting. I think there's pictures in here of the pickup. Ran into another snag the turbo drain fitting in the oil pan was in a bad location....not sure what I was thinking. I pulled the pan and removed the old fitting and replaced it with a cover plate, 5/8" tubing and #10 male AN fitting on the end. I think it turned out pretty good. Needless to say that wrecked the start plans. Need to get another 4 piece oil pan gasket and seal it back up. I did get to test the fuel system and set the pressure. I used an old set of injectors I had sitting around I use for mock up in there just in case some debris got circulated. Need to pull the rail and install the 160's. Upper radiator hose and coolant and I THINK it will be ready to start. I need to modify the valve cover and make up a coolant tank and oil catch can. Lots to do I may end up taking a day off to try and make some progress.

wallace
02-26-2013, 09:38 AM
Pics of the pan, the godforsaken windage tray, and my ghetto rear coil overs. I had to take the windage tray off to reseal the crank scraper on the backside of the engine and two of the tiny nuts on the #2 main cap were almost impossible to get to. Pan is done and back on. CV shafts are in. I got the thermostat last night and installed that this morning. Getting really close now.

2.216VTurbo
02-26-2013, 12:06 PM
I'm digging the windage tray attached to the block instead of in the pan where it can catch debris and hold gunk. Great idea:clap:

omni_840
02-26-2013, 06:44 PM
^Agreed


Care to share some more info on your rear coilover setup?

ShadowFromHell
02-26-2013, 07:44 PM
Subbing! I love builds like this. This is gonna be a fast little car, even if it was put together as a "street" car.

---------- Post added at 03:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:43 PM ----------

Also, any reason you didnt go with a 2.4? With the MS it would make more sense then the 8v.

Keito
02-26-2013, 08:23 PM
You're going to like the 2.5/HY in an Omni
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=17070&title=milan-track-day&cat=500


I'm interested in the rear suspension setup too.

wallace
02-27-2013, 09:08 AM
The rear suspension is a 94/95 Mustang bilstein HD with a bilstein coilover sleeve on it. You have to groove the shock and put a snap ring on there to locate the sleeve. I'm starting with a 14" 150 lb/in spring. I still have to get the top of the shock mounting straightened out. I'm not sure I'll be able to use the factory bushings so if anyone has suggestions on how to do that I would be all ears. I'm using Mark II Jetta Bilstein HD inserts in the front with modified stock l-body strut housings. LRE springs in the front and are 220 lb/in so I thought the 150's in the back would be close..and I had them laying around. Using a 1" bar in the rear and I've ordered the 1 1/4" front bar from Cindy....still waiting on that to ship ordered about 3 weeks ago so should be soon.

wallace
03-03-2013, 07:54 AM
It runs.

omni_840
03-03-2013, 12:32 PM
Awesome!

85boostbox
03-03-2013, 01:18 PM
Video or didn't happen :p

wallace
03-09-2013, 09:10 AM
OK, I got the coil over mounts sorted out. The lower mount on the shock is 12mm so I drilled the existing holes out and bought 12mm x 80mm bolts and nuts. I used the top "hat" that came with the sleeves. I made a 3/8" spacer out of aluminum to keep the hat centered on the shaft so the springs won't walk around. I cut the top of the stock mount off and used that to retain the stock bushings. pics are pretty self explanatory. Any questions let me know.

wallace
03-29-2013, 08:18 AM
Finally got the car out for a spin around the neighborhood. It's pig rich everywhere. I got a decent datalog and adjusted the VE table to lean it out. I'll need to keep repeating that in the 'hood until it's halfway driveable. Goal is to get it good enough to go and get state inspection done. It's tagged and insured. The big MC is way too much the pedal is rock hard. Need to swap the 1 1/8" out for something smaller I think stewdaddy gave me a 1" I'm going to try that one next the stock 7/8" was way too small and pedal travel was too much for me. Steering is surprisingly light I was expecting much more effort. maybe its the lightweight wheels and 40mm offset? Anyways getting there.

stewdaddy23
03-29-2013, 11:44 AM
pretty sure if you got a MC from me it was a #4 (24mm). Need to switch to all disk!

wallace
05-01-2013, 07:26 AM
This car is for sale. I am getting out of Turbo Dodge's. I will part it out or sell it whole. I will make someone a good deal if they want it complete. It needs a 36-1 trigger wheel adapted to it to run properly. I have the wheel and a spare pulley to be modified. I'll post an add in the for sale section.

AzShadow
05-01-2013, 12:41 PM
damn sorry to hear your getting out of it. if your parting the car i'm interested in some parts. valve cover with the ls2 brackets welded to it and maybe your ram/air cold air intake pieces

2.216VTurbo
05-01-2013, 01:20 PM
Wallace youve been here before,Ive been there before, burnt out, other priorities,financial stress, life getting in the way:mad: anything and everything at once. I'd urge you just to push it into the corner of the shop and let it sit till your situation changes or you *want* to work on it again. We've all been there,just last year during my divorce I was there:nod:

wallace
05-01-2013, 01:21 PM
No problem, if I don't get any interest in the whole car I will let you know. Thanks.

knownenemy
05-03-2013, 06:42 PM
Wallace youve been here before,Ive been there before, burnt out, other priorities,financial stress, life getting in the way:mad: anything and everything at once. I'd urge you just to push it into the corner of the shop and let it sit till your situation changes or you *want* to work on it again. We've all been there,just last year during my divorce I was there:nod:

AMEN!!!
Don't walk away man.
I don't even know you, but I DO know what you're feeling!
I walked away from my first GLHS, and I regretted it for YEARS!
Sold it for less than HALF of what I had into it.
Should've put it to the side for a while...as you've been suggested to do.
I've finally got my hands on another one, and I'll take it to my grave!!!:amen:

Best wishes to you my friend.:)

wallace
07-12-2013, 07:35 AM
Wallace youve been here before,Ive been there before, burnt out, other priorities,financial stress, life getting in the way:mad: anything and everything at once. I'd urge you just to push it into the corner of the shop and let it sit till your situation changes or you *want* to work on it again. We've all been there,just last year during my divorce I was there:nod:

I took your advice and left it in the shop. I'd throw a beer can at it every now and then to make myself feel better. I finally got off my arse and ordered up a trigger wheel and made up a mandrel to turn the crank pulley down to fit it up. I bought a hall effect sensor. Here's what I've got so far. I need to mount up the pulley and then fabricate the mount for the sensor. If anyone has done the sensor mount I'd love to see how and where you put it. It looks to me like a good spot is on the two mounting bolts for the seal adapter on the right side of the engine. Pics of my mandrel which is just the crank timing belt pulley with a piece of round stock I turned down to press fit into it. I bolted the pulley up backwards and turned it down so I can put the trigger wheel on with a little force. Once I get my sensor mounted I'll put the pulley and trigger wheel back in the lathe and align it with a dial indicator and weld it in place. My only concern is the trigger wheel is only .125" thick I'm wondering if that's enough width for the sensor to pick it up.

AzShadow
07-12-2013, 10:09 AM
which hall effect sensor did you go with? if its the one off diy's site their trigger wheel they sell says its 1/8" thick (although for some reason i thought it was thicker??) so you should be OK there.

Here is the mount i made (trigger wheel not shown obviously)

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q218/azshadow/20130611_200304_zpsf75b4158.jpg (http://s137.photobucket.com/user/azshadow/media/20130611_200304_zpsf75b4158.jpg.html)

The mount to the engine is slotted so i can adjust the height up and down from the wheel and the sensor can rotate about its single mounting bolt so i can center it on the wheel. seems like it will work. My trigger wheel adapter is still in process and im still wiring the car so i havent been able to test it. I will post up pics once its all mounted.

wallace
07-12-2013, 11:44 AM
I bought the threaded sensor from them but it should work similar to the one you have. Are you using a second trigger for sequential?

AzShadow
07-13-2013, 12:17 AM
yeah the threaded is basically the same thing. For now i am not going to add a second wheel. I got soooo much work to do on the car before something like that is a concern lol

maybe one day when im bored and everything else is completed....(like that is ever gonna happen)

wallace
08-16-2013, 04:03 PM
ok the car runs now using the hall effect sensor and trigger wheel. Was getting sync dropouts but it was because the gap was too far out. I adjusted it up and car fired right up. Need to verify the base timing and do some other odds and ends and then hopefully I can take it for a test drive.

2.216VTurbo
08-16-2013, 04:42 PM
Awesome:clap: 2.5 years of hard work and all of life's little challenges along the way...

AzShadow
08-21-2013, 12:44 AM
this is good news man!

i btw am in the crank/no start phase of my life....i can kinda get a few coughs out of it and an exhaust backfire but thats it.

do you mind sending me your msq file?

much appreciated. (pm sent too btw)

wallace
09-05-2013, 06:58 PM
small update. I had a timing problem with the car..the timing would retard with increasing rpm. I tried just about everything and in the end I had to set the ignition output opposite of what the instructions said. Once I got that corrected I was able to drive the car today and work on the tune. I have it idling fairly well and boosted it a couple of times and it pulls very hard. The manualbrakes absolutely suck. If anyone has an actual manual brake pedal from an l-body I would like to know if the pin location that actuates the mc is different from the power steering pedal. I'm going to go back to a stock size mc and see if that will give me a better feel right now the pedal has a good feel to it but it does not stop very well.

wallace
09-22-2013, 11:10 AM
I gave in and put the power booster back on the car and it now has good brakes. It is very rich in boost and breaks up badly so I've been leaning it out and trying to be careful so making small adjustments. It has a really bad lean spot at throttle tip in I believe due to the large plenum. Not sure what I'm going to do about the ps cv shaft. I looked at the old shaft and the new one and they are the same length so the shaft that's in there now is a lbody shaft. If anyone has any ideas why I am having this issue with the cv axle please chime in as I'm at a loss. At this point I'm considering having one of the axles shortened by a driveshaft shop. Could the frame be bent causing this issue? If so, is there a quick way to check for that.